His debut in London: JÉROME BRESSY and his friend Marie pictured Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, end of Jan 2012 for a lunch organised by Vine Trail for leading sommeliers and some other trade members. His DOMAINE GOURT DE MAUTENS at RASTEAU is singular, notable for extremely low yields, and high quality wines of poise and clarity. It has been organic since 1988-89, biodynamic since 2008. The line-up includes an exceptional Vin Doux Naturel. The domaine is listed under Rasteau.
GOINGS-ON
EARLY FEBRUARY 2012: the next big event involving the Rhône is the 10th edition of VINISUD in Montpellier, from MONDAY 20 to WEDNESDAY 22 FEBRUARY. It occurs every two years. The Rhône has a Hall of its own, and a decent amount of domaines are present.
ENTERED RECENTLY: visits and talk with LOUIS BARRUOL of CHÂTEAU DE SAINT COSME at GIGONDAS, especially his vins de table and cheaper merchant wines. Also, both at RASTEAU, GEORGES PERROT of DOMAINE LA COLLIÈRE as well as the newly entered DOMAINE GOURT DE MAUTENS. New entries also: the respectable CHÂTEAU SAINT LOUIS PERDRIX at COSTIÈRES DE NIMES, and the above-average VENTOUX Co-operative CAVE TERRAVENTOUX which combines Villes-sur-Auzon and Mormoiron. Look at DOMAINE DE LA RENJARDE at MASSIF D`UCHAUX and DOMAINE DE L`AMAUVE at SÉGURET for the latest vintages there - both very good names in their Appellations.
LATE JANUARY 2012: the last week of January heralds the issue of proper 2010 Rhône offers from two highly respected sources in Britain, The Wine Society (which is a Members Society on http://www.thewinesociety.com/ and Berry Brothers of London, http://www.bbr.com/ The Wine Society offer, for example, features 180 wines from North and South. These are correctly timed offers, allowing the importers main men to have assesed the wines recently, when they are closer to their final nature than they are back in October and November.
ENTERED RECENTLY: more Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010s, including Tradition and Prestige quality wines, a visit to Château Rayas there to taste the Emmanuel Reynaud 2010s, along with a series of very good red Crozes-Hermitage. Note the incidence of w.o.w. wines at Crozes in 2010 - exactly what the appellation should produce. Visits to Côte-Rôtie estates René Rostaing and Michel and Stéphane Ogier are also included, with their 2010s showing the beauty of the year.
EARLY JANUARY 2012: more notes have been entered on the 2010s of Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape - use the Search engine and I suggest keying in at 3.5 stars or 4 stars and above. Under each domaine the LVT 2010 r code shows if a note has been posted - Last Vintage Tasted 2010 red.
MID-DECEMBER 2011: notes on the 2009 and 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes red and white after a visit there. A few 2010 Lirac reds were also tasted in the Rhône. I especially highly recommend the not yet in bottle Domaine de la Mordorée - see their entry under Tavel. Also, some bottled already 2010 Gigondas - very early bottling, pressure on volumes from small harvests, but not a trend I like. use the Search engine Gigondas 2010 and 4 stars and up. More 2010 Condrieus entered - see under the 2010 Northern Rhône tab, click subtab The Leading Wines.
2010 Northern Rhône notes have been loaded on a wide selection of Cornas, Hermitage red and Côte-Rôtie. See the left-hand tab 2010 Northern Rhône, and once logged in, click on the subtab The Leading Wines. Domaine visits to Marc Sorrel and Bernard Faurie are also featured, under Hermitage. Under Vin de Pays, I suggest a look at the most promising Domaine Les Alexandrins, a Northern sector venture co-run by Marc Sorrel`s son Guillaume. From 2011 they will be offering a Crozes-Hermitage red, but for now their red from 85% Gamay and their Viognier are very good in 2010.
mid November 2011: in the Southern Rhône, visits to three domaines at Châteauneuf-du-Pape to taste 2010s and some 2009s in bottle: Font de Michelle (which includes their very promising Gonnet Selection range, eg Ventoux and Gigondas), Vieux Télégraphe (which includes their Gigondas Les Pallières) and the Bruniers other Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine La Roquète, and the Château de Beaucastel, where the estate wines were tasted, along with the wider range, whose name has changed from Perrin & Fils to Famille Perrin.
early November 2011: under Recent Tastings, a review of the Village of Séguret and its wines, from a tasting held in Paris in July, 2011, at the cosmopolitan Fish restaurant in the arty, fancy rue de Seine. Left Bank.
Also, a full review of the 2010s from Hermitage at Chapoutier and Delas, as well as from Cornas-based Jean-Luc Colombo has been entered under each of those domaines. Go to the Left Hand tab 2010 Northern Rhône, and, once logged in, click on its sub tab, the indented heading The Leading Wines to see a series of summaries on each of the Northern appellations in 2010. A raft of tasting notes and views will appear after extensive November 2011 visits.
mid-October 2011: Pierre Gonon of the Domaine Gonon, father of Jean and Pierre, died in early October, 2011. He was 78 years` old. He retired as a vigneron in 1989 due to ill health, but gamely kept going with his abundant vegetable patch, jardin, or potager, next to the cellars. His specialities were all local - "he was not the sort of person to go seeking outside varieties" - according to Jean. His potatoes were always a triumph - every family visitor had to try them, as well as his haricots verts (green beans), his tomatoes and his Oignons de Tournon.
He was also a representative of that generation, peopled locally by the late Gustave Coursodon and the late Maurice Courbis, also Auguste Clape, who worked tirelessly with absolutely no eye for publicity or marketing. This was the generation that formed the basis for the rise of the Rhône in the 1970s. Quality was a natural aim, with no short-cuts to achieve that. It is little surprise that his two sons set about hand grafting their Syrah cuttings and working with no use of artificial or chemical fertilizers, long before anyone saw that as a PR stunt, which is it has become in cases today.
Domaine Gonon is today the reference domaine at Saint-Joseph, from its base at Mauves, the village of the Chaves of Hermitage, the Gripa family at Saint-Joseph and Saint-Péray, the Marsanne family and the Coursodons. Their high quality and tremendous reputation can be traced back to father Pierre. My condolences have been given to the family.
Around 90 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Papes have been tasted, after bottling, and their notes entered. The most noticeable development for the vintage is the loss of what I term their "puppy fat". The demands of the dry ripening season and high late August heat have come through in the shape of firming tannins, and rather dry finishes. The wines have become more brooding, less innocent. The best retain a pleasing serenity of fruit, ripe tannins and calm balance. 2007 is a superior vintage, while the 2006s present free and pretty easy drinking in many cases now.
late September 2011: a full review of 2009 Gigondas features under the tab 2009 Southern Rhône. Click on the sub tab The Leading Wines. It is high quality year there. Visits to Domaines Martinelle in Ventoux and Domaine La Boussière at Gigondas have been written up - they represent the husband and wife team of Corinna Kruse and Thiérry Faravel, and are leaders in both appellations.
mid-September 2011: please read an article on Le Vieux Donjon, one of the only domaines at Châteauneuf-du-Pape still making just one red wine. Reflections on that, the history of the 15 hectare domaine, and comments specifically on their 1990 and 1981 feature under Veterans Corner. Log in, and click on the bar under Veterans Corner marked The Wines
late August 2011: a newly scribbled essay around a June 2011 tasting in London of the white wines of Château Rayas at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Reynaud family Côtes-du-Rhône estate Château de Fonsalette. "They" simply DO NOT make wines like this anymore. Log in, and go to The Big Tastings. Added as well: two extremely sound west bank domaines in the Gard, namely at Chusclan, the Château de Signac, maker of sophisticated reds; and at Signargues, the Clos d`Alzan, where Michel Collomb, the husband of the owner of Domaine de la Valériane, makes understated, slow-burn wines for which the word "honest" is well-suited. Recent liked wines include the 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône red from Cros de la Mure at Massif d`Uchaux, and the two 2010 rosés from Marcel Guigal at Côte-Rôtie, his Tavel and his Côtes-du-Rhône.
mid-August 2011: a full review of 2009 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages reds has been entered under the Left Hand tab 2009 Southern Rhône. Once logged in, click on the sub tab The Leading Wines. From the 17 Villages there is a great variety of good value wines: this is an exciting area for the Rhône, with some dashing wines with a real frame around them, ideal for a little cellaring and good dishes. The most racy in this category and that of the more simple Côtes-du-Rhône are shown under the w.o.w. Wines category, while the terroir-faithful, local examples are under STGT Wines.
This has brought up a wide variety of small domaines and Cave Co-operatives. Among the more notable, I would signal the recent joint venture of Laudun and Chusclan on the west bank, Les Vignerons de Laudun Chusclan, which is listed under the Chusclan tab. The Cave de Cairanne is still capable of turning out some good cuvées, as is the Cave de Rasteau. Note that Rasteau starts as a full cru appellation from the 2010 vintage - the 2009 remains a Village wine. North-east of Rasteau, a visit to the the Cave Comtadine at Puyméras has been put up, with reliable and understated wines the order of the day. At Sablet, the Cave Gravillas is another competent performer, while at Costières de Nimes, the grouping of Les Vignerons Créateurs is doing well, with the family-owned Château l`Ermitage also making supple, modern wines of some quality.
Elsewhere in the Villages area, note the following new entries. At Séguret, the tiny domaine run by Pablo Hocht, genial and culured cellarman at Château de Saint Cosme in Gigondas, has been entered - his first vintage of Domaine du Crève Coeur was 2010. The wines of Saint Cosme at Gigondas have also been tasted, including the merchant range, and that estate remains a top performer. On the Plan de Dieu, the Domaine Martin has long been a good source, including for Rasteau. At Valréas, the Domaine du Séminaire is a valid address, while a couple of British entrants are worth noting. The importer Boutinot now has a vineyard at Cairanne, while the retailer Mark`s & Spencer has produced an excellent, great value Saint-Maurice in 2009. Sound suppliers of Côtes-du-Rhône range from the small Domaine de l`Aure to the large scale Compagnie Rhodanienne, where quality is on the up.
On a literary level, I have received a copy of Gerald Asher`s anthology of his Gourmet magazine articles, most charmingly titled A Vineyard in My Glass. My quote on the back cover will express my views on this volume: "Wine can occasionally be silken textured, as can its prose, especially in Gerald Asher`s hands. He is the Maestro, the Doyen, and my inspiration since the 1970s." I highly recommend this uplifting book to all readers. It is published by University of California Press, and its ISBN is 978-0-520-27033-6.
Lastly, the riots in London have been a most depressing manifestation of all sorts. A restaurant that we in the wine enthusiast trade use for tasting lunches and dinners, the Ledbury, was caught up in the maelstrom. It has risen to 2 star Michelin status through much hard work, allied to reasonable pricing, notably at lunch time. It is in Notting Hill, west of London. The eyewitness account on this published link may bring home some of what was going on to you, in all its bleakness. It is written by Louise, a Californian book reading blogger. The postscript is that the Ledbury had no door the next day, but was open for lunch. http://www.runawaysquirrels.com/2011/08/london-riots-comes-to-the-ledbury/
early August 2011: Northern Rhône action recently: a full review of the 2009 Saint-Joseph reds, a highly accomplished vintage. See 2009 Northern Rhône, sub tag The Leading Wines. Visits to Thiérry Allemand at Cornas, the new, promising domaine of Pierre-Jean Villa, based at Saint-Joseph, but with vineyards also at Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie - Pierre-Jean left Les Vins de Vienne in late 2009.
In the Southern Rhône, see 2010 Southern Rhône, sub tag The Leading Wines, for a review of 2010 Tavel rosé - given the freshness of the vintage, this has been a successful year. Côtes du Rhône domaines entered include, notably, Domaine La Manarine, whose Gilles Gasq also works at Domaine de Monpertuis at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Good quality wines here. The quirky Clos des Grillons run by Nicolas Renaud in the Gard (west bank) is full of interest - small lots of wines with an abundance of character - they are Vins Naturels in style, on low SO2 rations. A visit to the much-admired Matthieu Dumarcher in black truffle country has been logged, along with the Domaine de l`Olivier in the Gard (very correct wines), while the Domaine Barbanot near Vaison-la-Romaine has been newly entered.
From the Rhône Villages, the Domaine du Val des Rois at Valréas has been put up, tinged with the sadness of the passing of its doughty, intelligent owner Romain Bouchard, aged 88, in July 2011. Romain`s son Emmanuel has been running the estate for several years now. His father was committed to many causes to help the disadvantaged, and was indeed a man of substance. The ex-Tricastin appellation of Grignan-les-Adhemar, a truly ridiculous amalgam of two villages, features the Domaine de Montine, whose Vinsobres is a good performer. At Rasteau, a few Vins Doux Naturels, VDNs, have been tasted: I signal the Domaine des Escaravailles, and the Domaine des Banquettes, the latter always a good performer.
mid-July 2011: after tastings at the Hermitage names of Delas, Chapoutier and Jean-Louis Chave, the report on Hermitage 2009 red and white has been posted under the 2009 Northern Rhône tab on the left hand column. Visits to Yves Gangloff and Domaine Georges Vernay - both big names - at Condrieu and the Domaine Bernard at Côte-Rôtie have been entered. In the Veteran stage, I would highlight the 1994 white Hermitage from Jean-Louis Chave, and the 1996 Condrieu Coteau de Vernon from Vernay, the last vintage made by Georges before he retired - both are in great shape still.
late June 2011: prior to a visit of Northern and Southern domaines, including J-L Chave, Delas, Chapoutier, Gangloff and a big 2009 Gigondas tasting sur place there, several solid domaines have been added. Under the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, the Domaine Saladin run by two enterprising sisters in the southern Ardèche has been put up, and under Côtes-du-Rhône, the latest on their neighbour the Mas de Libian, always a true quality destination. Other Côtes-du-Rhône domaines added - Fond Croze, the latest on Domaine de la Rouette (son has returned, promising therefore) and the interesting vin de pays domaine in the Gard, Domaine La Gramière. See also: the latest at Signargues at Domaine de la Valériane, a good, steady name in female hands. On the Plan de Dieu the Ferme Saint Antonin is up now, and at Ventoux the British-owned Château Unang - above average, good reds and whites in an authentic manner.
mid June 2011: from the Maldives to Mere, Witshire, England, in one nearly fell swoop. A visit to Yapp Brothers, which is explained in the Yapp website http://www.yapp.co.uk/blog/index.php/2011/06/j-l-l-drops-in-to-mere/ link. I fully recommend the 2010 Maby Tavel rosé La Forcadière, by the way.
Added recently has been a range of domaines from the Southern Rhône, with an emphasis on Gigondas 2009s: so Domaine Burle, des Florets, Gour de Chaulé (a w.o.w. rosé, rare), Moulin de la Gardette (2008 is w.o.w. and STGT, also rare), Paillère et Pied Gu, Santa Duc, St Francois Xavier, Domaine du Terme.
From the Plan de Dieu Villages, look up the good, hearty Bastide Saint Vincent and Domaine de l`Espigouette. Rasteau domaines now posted range from old to recent - La Soumade of the charismatic André Romero, and La Collière from André`s protegé Georges Perrot. Another pillar of the community at Cairanne, the Domaine Rabasse Charavin of the tenacious, very public-spirited Corinne Couturier, has been posted as well. I also recommend looking up the regular high quality of Domaine Cros de la Mure at Massif d`Uchaux - w.o.w. wines. I would also highly recommend a tiny, 2+ hectare organic-biodynamic domaine, Le Mas de Casalas, listed under Côtes-du-Rhône, also STGT style wines. Lastly, from the Gard, Château Boucarut, one of the better Liracs.
early June 2011: following the dinners in the Hilton Iru Fushi in the Maldives with Pierre Perrin of Château de Beaucastel at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the following wines tasted (drunk) have been noted under this estate, along with full report under Recent Tastings: Roussanne VV 2009, 2008, Hommage Jacques Perrin 2007, 2001, 2000, Cru de Coudoulet 2003 red, and Beaucastel red 2007, 2006, 2005, 2003, 1998, 1990. Full report to follow. The now-bottled 2008, as well as the 2009 and 2010 Hermitage red and the now bottled 2008 Hermitage white from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave have also been entered. At Tavel, the Domaine Maby red Lirac and their w.o.w. Tavel 2010 rosé have also been put up.
mid May 2011: engine room Southern Rhône entries recently, with the emphasis on some new and exciting domaines. There is much to like about the approach of young growers who are often highly motivated, and I would signal some of these to readers. At Roaix, the most promising Domaine Pique-Basse deserves speacial attention for its Villages wines. At Cairanne, the Clos des Mourres likewise, while under Côtes-du-Rhône, have a look at Domaine Nicolas Croze - not a start-up, but good nonetheless. Under Brézème, see Domaine Helfenbein Charles, a singular journey for this young man who is working the most southerly Northern Côtes-du-Rhône vineyards at Brézème, but also vineyards from the Ardèche across the river.
At Cairanne, prime domaines Oratoire Saint Martin and Domaine Alary have been visited - also see Denis Alary`s interesting comments about his whites under the latter. From Rasteau, Elodie Balme`s wines of finesse have been tasted, which now include a Roaix. At Vinsobres, the 2009s have been tasted from a range of domaines, led by Domaine de Deurre (STGT qualities), Jaume and Chaume-Arnaud. For the full range, use the Search engine under 2009 Vinsobres.
At Signargues, the quite recent Rhône Village in the west bank Gard département, the accomplished maker of fine wines, the Château Haut-Musiel has been entered, while nearby at Saint-Gervais, the regular leader of the pack, Domaine Saint-Anne, has been visited. Under Côtes-du-Rhône, I would also point out the regular quality of the Château La Borie, a wine popular in Britain.
From the Northern Rhône, Yves Cuilleron`s range has been updated, from Condrieu on to the reds and the Vins de Pays as well.
My next assignment is a glamorous voyage to the Maldive Islands in the company of Marcel and Bernadette Guigal, a hommage to Marcel`s Decanter Man of the Year title, with events being organised in his honour. I am carrying the great man`s towels and lobbing in the odd comment, notably on his Mouline, Landonne and Turque wines from 1998 to 2007. After that, Pierre Perrin of Château de Beaucastel is presenting his wines on another island, and that, too, is a very high profile event.
end April 2011: a series of entries that centre on 2009, several from Gigondas, whose freshness contributed importantly to the quality of the 2009s. The authentic Domaine La Roubine, including their good Vacqueyras and Sablet, Pierre Amadieu, Saint-Damien, the extremely regular, STGT leaning Domaine du Pesquier, the always stimulating Château de Saint-Cosme, and the steady Château du Trignon. Added are one established Gigondas Domaine du Pourra, owned by the good doctor Jean-Christian Mayordome, and at Vacqueyras, a bright new grower and his Domaine d`Ouréa - making both Vacqueyras and Gigondas, starting out with the very promising 2010 vintage. Likewise, a recent young merchant based at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Romain Duvernay, has been included. His Northern Rhône selection, notably Hermitage red, has been successful in 2009.
From the Northern Rhône, have a look at François Villard at Condrieu - I note improvement in some of his whites since July 2010, with the malo in some cases taking until the middle of last summer to complete. Also at Hermitage, Maison Nicolas Perrin, the joint-venture between Nicolas Jaboulet and the Perrin family of Beaucastel; also the Vins de Vienne at Côte-Rôtie - emphasis on their Vins de Pays.
Under the left-hand tab 2009 Northern Rhône, please read about the 2009s in an often overlooked category, that of Côtes-du-Rhône and Vin de Pays reds and whites. These wines have a lot of personality, and frequently represent genuine value for money. In 2009 they are as rich as I have ever known them - a good vintage to buy at prices starting around £11 in GB and rising to dizzier heights when considering the accomplished Seyssuel Syrahs and Viogniers - the likes of Sotanum and Taburnum from Les Vins de Vienne.
mid-April 2011: visits and tastings have been entered on the following domaines, all seen in March 2011: at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos Saint Jean (lot of sugar in the 2009, so delayed bottling), Domaines Pierre André (longtime organic, very Grenache), Bosquet des Papes (Tradition v good value), Cristia (just bottled now), Marcoux, Pegau, Saint-Préfert, Pierre Usseglio, Raymond Usseglio. Mostly 2009 reds, some 2010 whites have been tasted. At Gigondas, the very accomplished Domaine La Bouissière - focus on 2009 also.
April 2011: recent domaines that have been brought up to date include the interesting Gigondas Mas des Restanques, where the style is refined and subtle. Two good Côtes du Rhône domaines are on the score sheet as well - the Domaine Coulange, which is making w.o.w. wines and the long-term classic Domaine La Réméjeanne, which I have known since the late 1970s. These are both in the Gard département west of Avignon. 2010 Tavel rosés are also being entered - a fresh and agreeable vintage.
mid-March 2011: following early March 2011 visits, two eminent domaines at Châteauneuf-du-Pape have been brought up to date: Domaine Monpertuis, where the red wine has STGT tendencies and the white wine is from the school of long-lived white Châteauneuf - the whites tasted back to 1998 and 1992. Also, I had a quick look in at the Château de Beaucastel, where tasting included the 2009 Hommage a Jacques Perrin and some villages 2009s that included Cairanne, along with 2010 grass roots whites. From Côte-Rôtie, 2009 and 2010 René Rostaing. My views on the excellence of the Northern Rhône 2010s have been stated before, and my enthusiasm continues unabated. I also had an agreeable check-up on René`s thickly set, excellent 2005 Côte Blonde.
March 2011: a couple of organic Côtes du Rhône domaines who sell heir wine rather cheaply through Monoprix in France, and might be worth a look, particularly the first-named, Domaine Notre Dame de Cousignac and Château des Coccinelles (ladybirds). Also, from the Côtes du Vivarais, the Vignerons Ardechois, who have been around for a long time, and whose quality can be on the mark, especially in generous vintages such as 2009. About 18 red Hermitage 2009s have been entered as well, under each domaine. Use the Search engine to see their rating, starting at 3 stars and up, I suggest.
Mid-February 2011: joining Côte-Rôtie in a full 2009 Northern Rhône review is Cornas 2009 - click THE LEADING WINES tab under 2009 Northern Rhône in the Left-Hand column. More Crozes-Hermitage 2009 reds have been reviewed under their specific domaine names - see the LVT 2009 r category. This includes visits to father and son Domaines of Alain and Max Graillot, the latter also known as Domaine des Lises.
A trio of wines from Château Val Joanis in the Lubéron have also been entered. As is often the case, my preference is for the simple wines that are less tarted up with new oak etc.
February 2011: the full investigation, 4,000 words and lots of comments and insights, on 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds is documented under the 2009 Southern Rhône tab.
By the way, once you have clicked on that tab, please go down one level and click on the Leading Wines title underneath it; there is no need to re-log in.
Leading Northern Rhône 2009s have been entered from Cornas, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph - wines around the ***(*) or higher category. Look out for the LVT 2009 tab against the domaine name.
As I have been working on a large contribution to a book on Gigondas organised by the Syndicat of Growers, there are some fascinating tasting notes appearing. I am covering the vintages from 1959 to the present day, year by year. Many old bottles have been tracked down, and they frequently surprise through their stability and freshness after thirty-plus years, particularly in the lesser, higher acidity vintages. Readers can use the Search option for vintage notes, or focus on a few domaines whose wines have been found for this exercise - for example, Domaines Moulin de la Gardette, Pesquier, Raspail-Ay, Saint Gayan and Teyssonières.
See Veterans Corner for a comparison of two wines from the sainted vintage of 1985, the Gigondas Domaine Raspail-Ay and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. A new domaine at Saint-Joseph, Domaine Christophe Blanc, has been entered, offering a sound 2009 from that excellent vintage, while an overdue listing for the accomplished Domaine Les Aphillantes at Plan de Dieu has been made.
I also urge you to catch up with the Vidal-Fleury range of wines, listed under their home appellation of Côte-Rôtie. Owned for decades by Etienne and Marcel Guigal, this largely merchant business is now receiving due investment and attention now that is established in a brand new cellar in the south of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. I have been impressed by both southern and northern Rhônes from them.
Under Laudun, the Dauvergne-Ranvier merchant business features their very respectable, modern 2009s from Côte-Rôtie and Saint-Joseph. The Côtes du Rhône Domaine de l`Olivier has been posted, as have two suppliers at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the young team at Domaine de la Biscarelle in the north of the appellation, and the established merchant based in the southern area, Les Grandes Serres, which has produced a good, limited quantity 2009 red Châteauneuf.
mid-January 2011: a full report on 2009 Côte-Rôtie has been posted under the Left Hand tab 2009 Northern Rhône. It is a vintage worthy of great respect. 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds will follow under the 2009 Southern Rhône tab.
early January 2011: a variety of domaines has been added, catching up on admin, as it were. Notably: Domaine La Cabotte at Massif d`Uchaux, always a strong source of good wine. The incomparable Domaine de Sainte-Anne, the only real address at Saint-Gervais; the traditional and very worthy Domaine Saint-Pierre in the Côtes du Rhône, an estate I have known since the early 1970s, also makers of good Plan de Dieu Villages and Vacqueyras. Other names worth a look include, at Vacqueyras, the Domaine de la Brunély, at Sablet, the Domaine de Verquière, at Gigondas, the Domaine de la Tourade, at Lirac the biodynamic Domaine de Mayran and at Saint-Gervais the Domaine Clavel.
From the Northern Rhône, please look at Marc Sorrel from Hermitage for some wonderful 2009 and 2010, as well as at Condrieu, the skilled Francois Merlin with his 2009 and 2010.
For those of you straying to the far north, please see the review of Restaurant Juuri in Helsinki, a real treasure.
mid-December 2010: Vacqueyras is under the spotlight, with recent vintages 2007, 2008 and 2009 being entered. Look for the LVT 2009, 2008 symbols next to the domaines. Or use the Search engine. Two recently established domaines, the offbeat Roucas Toumba of Eric Bouletin and Domaine Les Ondines of Jérémy Onde, have been entered. Also, a traditional domaine, the Domaine Cabassole, and a long-established property where I did the harvest in the early 1970s, Domaine Le Clos de Caveau. There are also domaines not based in Vacqueyras who are making good wines: these include, from Gigondas, the Château du Trignon (newly acquired 10 hectare vineyard), Domaine La Bouïssière, Pierre Amadieu, and the organic Clos du Joncuas, while from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Domaine de la Charbonnière regularly makes successful Vacqueyras.
mid-November 2010: please see Recent Tastings, and click on the Cornas in London sub tab for a report on a dinner involving 13 wines of Cornas stretching from 2006 back to 1983. A veritable glimpse back in time to some fine, mature wines. Visits to leading Côte-Rôtie Domaine Jamet and leading Saint-Joseph Domaine Gonon have been entered, including a look at their 2010 Syrah. A start-up Vin de Pays domaine run by the son of Marc Sorrel at Hermitage, has been added - Les Alexandrins.
There is often good value from the Côtes du Rhône reds made by Châteauneuf-du-Pape domaines. See a fine collection of 2009 Côtes du Rhônes from Domaine de la Janasse, Domaine du Grand Tinel, and a fascinating Côtes du Rhône white from Clos du Caillou, made from Clairette rose rather than the usual Clairette blanche. Also an STGT Villages red 2009 from La Bastide Saint-Dominique.
There has been action at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a host of new names with usually small plots starting to make and bottle their own wine. These are Domaines Julien Masquin, La Celestière (8 hectares in the west of the appellation, a big investment), Mouriesse Vinum, La Consonnière, Saint-Pierre and Château Capucine. A lot of 2009 red Châteauneufs have been written up. The 2009 red and whites at Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château Rayas and Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette have also been assessed. Recent visits to the organic Domaine Romaneaux-Déstézet of Hervé Souhaut at Saint-Joseph and Domaine Georges Vernay at Condrieu, makers of the supreme Coteau de Vernon, have also been included.
For 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape red tasting notes - look at domaines with an LVT 2009 r code beside them, or use the Search engine for 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, probably starting at 3.5 or 4 stars and up.
McLAREN VALE BUILDING NIGHTMARE: a 77 hectare suburban zone is due to be built on cereal land next to the McLaren Vale vineyards. The plan is for commercial centres, 1200 dwellings and 2500 residents in the ominously named "Phase 1." Growers are desolate at this prospect, so if you, unlike the Ministers, can take the long view - destruction of heritage, just as we had at Cornas a while back - please fire off an email to Mr Holloway, whose email address is minister.holloway@sa.gov.au More on this debacle features on the McLaren Vale sidebar. Please emphasize the country you are writing from, so the bureaucrats can realise that this is not just a little local fling. Thank you very much.
mid-October 2010 News: creased faces, a few yawns here and there, knocking over the odd glass of water when eating - yes it`s harvest and vinification time, the growers at full stretch. 2010`s crop is reduced, but people are happy with the quality. In the Southern Rhône, Gigondas is still harvesting under stable weather in the week of October 11, while Châteauneuf-du-Pape has largely finished, except for strong waiters like Château Rayas, whose bunches are magnificent on their south-west, sun-setting vineyard near the cellars. Vacqueyras has finished as well. Fermentations have gone well, too.
From Gigondas, Dominique Ay of Domaine Raspail-Ay: "The crop hasn`t been big; the mountain people are better off than those lower down - they had less coulure since their flowering came in the warmer weather. It`s taken time for the crop to be ripe. My average degree is 14.2°. It will be a year of under 30 hl/ha, like 2009. Colours are good on the Grenache and on the Syrah."
From Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Bruno Le Roy, Château Fortia: "very well coloured and structured wines in 2010, not a big crop - less than 2009. We have very handsome Syrah this year - the Grenache, too, which is more coloured than the 2009. Fermentation went off well, with less degree than 2007, and more balanced wines. The freshness and acidity are good, too, for both reds and whites. The key in 2010 was that we didn`t have the excess of heat as we did in previous years. The nights were cool at under 20°C, which helped the colour levels. We started the red crop on 13 September. The early September rain was helpful - the first fall ran off quickly, maybe around 90 mm (3.6 in), but the second fall of around 60 mm (2.2 in) was absorbed, and unblocked the ripening. I think there was a bit more rain in the south than in the north of the appellation. But the rain was not wild, there was no hail, and it didn`t hurt the plants."
From Vacqueyras, Jean-Michel Vache of Le Clos des Cazaux: "we are 20% down on yield this year - the reason being the 80 days we went without rain. We also lost 20% in 2009. Some people have lost 40% this year. There was less crop than at Gigondas, because the flowering at Vacqueyras came during the cool weather, the Gigondas was later, and coincided with warmer temperatures and less wind."
mid-October 2010 Northern Rhône News: Corinne Jamet, wife of Jean-Paul at Domaine Jamet, Côte-Rôtie: we will take three days this week of October 11 to finish the last 5 of our 13 hectares - 12 to 14 October. The crop is very healthy, but ripening has been slow on skins, stems and pips. In the first week of October the team was harvesting in T-shirts and shorts, with over 30° C in the vineyards. Sunday 10 October was 26-27°C, but this week will be 17-19°C, with a helpful North Wind. Quantity is very reasonable."
From Hermitage, Bernard Faurie reports: "I am happy. The 2010 crop hasn`t been big, but it was very healthy, and colour and degrees are good. The quantity is down on last year, maybe a loss of 30%. I think that is because the vines gave a good yield in last year`s drought, and so were tired this year. The slope vines have been more affected than the plain level ones. I picked my white Hermitage on 17 September, with degree of over 14°, and my Syrah on 22 September, before some rain, with a degree of nearly 14°, which will fall a little once vinified."
From Cornas, Pierre Clape of Domaine Clape: "2010 is a very pretty vintage. Degrees were between 14° and 14.5°, but the 60mm (2.2 in) rainstorm around 6-7 September helped to stabilise the degree at that, not higher. In truth, so dry has it been that 2 days after that rain you wouldn`t have known that anything had fallen, so thirsty were the vineyards. The wines are a bit more fresh than the 2009s, and are on less on over-ripeness than the 2009s. The structure is good, and in barrel they taste very much on the fruit. Our yield will be around 32-33 hl/ha, against 35 hl/ha in 2009; we have had some coulure, and on the young vines I have noticed both small bunches and small berries. We started 17 September, and finished the Cornas on 23 September, our vin de table on 25 September. Fermentations have gone smoothly, with the help of cool mornings and warm afternoons, up to 30-31°C this year. The wines are quite robust in tannins - for example our lower areas on Mazards and Pied la Vigne have the same tannin level as La Côte higher up with its old vines. I would say that 2010 is more fresh than 2009, a bit less concentrated. 2009 can lean towards 2003. 2010 is quite classic, a beau vintage."
3rd-4th week of September 2010 News: harvesting is well under way, and the crop is in good shape. Quantity is reduced according to Marcel Richaud in Cairanne, and according to Emmanuel Reynaud at Château Rayas at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Emmanuel will start his harvesting on Monday 27 September, and reports that, while there is not a lot of Grenache because of the dreaded coulure (flowers fail to convert into fruit), it is attractive. The sugars are ready, but not the polyphenols, while the whites are in good shape. At the Clos des Papes, Vincent Avril paused on Friday 24 September with rain forecast, and will resume on Monday 27 September, having completed around half his harvesting.
2nd week of September 2010 News: the rains fell, the vineyards survived well. Everywhere in the Rhône received at least 2 inches (50mm) between 6 and 8 September, and the forecast into mid-September is for fine weather. Throughout the Valley, a helpful North Wind - the Bise (Kiss) in the North, the Mistral in the South - has been blowing, cleaning up the foliage and cutting down the risk of rot.
RECENT ADDITIONS:
mid-October 2010: please go to Veterans Corner, The Wines, to read about suggestions of what to drink with a bottle of 1996 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château Rayas white, in response to an enquiry about that from a Norwegian subscriber. Under Recent Tastings, Les Vins Naturels, some organic wines from domaines such as Romaneaux-Destezet at Saint-Joseph and Dard & Ribo at Crozes-Hermitage have been tried, along with a 1998 Château de Fonsalette red.
2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds are being gradually entered on a domaine by domaine basis, starting with the more affordable Tradition category (the Prestige wines can wait their turn). LVT 2009 r (Last Vintage Tasted 2009 red) is the clue, or use the Search engine under vintage 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, please.
Also updated recently have been the red wines of the Cave de Tain at Hermitage, where the Top Grade reds, notably the striking Epsilon, are bounding forward, and the pricelessly traditional Domaine La Garrigue at Vacqueyras, whose 90-100 year Grenache red Canterelle is a winner. Remember that the Garrigue wines are available at the Hotel Les Florets in the foothills of the Dentelles Mountains at Gigondas, a venue that is run by the Bernard family as well.
mid-lateSeptember 2010: beside each domaine please check out the very successful merchant range from Louis Barruol at Château Saint Cosme at Gigondas - these wines trade with the name Saint Cosme on the label, are mainly Northern Rhône, and are very good. There is a delightful 2009 w.o.w. red as well, a wine to get on and enjoy now. One-off wines to look up include the 2009 white Laudun from Domaine Pelaquié - always great value, great drinking - the white Vin de Table from Matthieu Dumarcher whom I regard as very talented under Côtes du Rhône, and a vin de pays red of great character from Château des Tours at Vacqueyras.
Having tasted their 2009 Côtes du Rhône Villages reds, the Château Courac at Laudun, Domaine La Cabotte at Massif d`Uchaux and the Domaine Montmartel at Visan have been added. The first two have been exporters and providers of good quality wines for some time, while the last-named`s wines are pretty authentic.
mid-September 2010: for Swedish readers, I tried two recent arrivals from the System Bolaget, one good value, the other less so. See the Louis Chèze Vin de Pays Syrah 2009 note (SEK89 or £8), and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Villeneuve Vieilles Vignes red 2007 (SEK339, or £30), a wine that raises some debate.
2009 Northern Rhône whites have been added to, in the shape of Saint-Péray and Saint-Joseph. I prefer the former to the latter, and would include its 2008 vintage as well - both indicate a risurgimento as a wider group of growers - Cuilleron and friends, Chapoutier - take an interest, even a young debutant called Rémy Nodin.
2010 continued: In the NORTHERN RHÔNE, a few reports follow: at Côte-Rôtie, René Rostaing said: "it is very, very good for the moment. We are 8 days behind the usual date - this delay has lasted since the cold weather during flowering in early June. July and August were very fine, with hot days and fresh nights - excellent for the polyphenols (tannic acidities)."
"The 2010 vintage looks so far like being one from 20 years ago - a structured year marked by dark fruit and tannins - the crop is very healthy. Degree is not important for the moment - 10.5° to 11.5°. Today it is a bit over 20°C, with a dry and very fine North Wind. I will start 22-23 September, with my vines on the Côte Blonde."
Philippe Guigal commented to me: "we had 65mm (2.5 inches) on 6-7 September - if anything, we are content, since a deluge was forecast. Hence the rain is not irreparable. There have been some very dry spots at Côte-Rôtie this year - old vines on rock face hillsides, for instance - where their leaves have been turning yellow already. The hillside vineyards should have a normal yield this year - they flowered in the sun, but the plateau areas have lost crop since they flowered in the rain. The ban des vendanges will probably be announced for 15 September this year." Philippe added that at Hermitage "we have a normal size crop, but a strange situation where the Syrahs are ripening ahead of the whites - this is unusual, and is something we cannot explain technically." As for his Condrieu, Philippe said: "the degree on the best Viognier has fallen from 14° before the early September rain of 65mm (2.5 inches) to 13.6° to 13.7°. The crop will be large."
At Saint-Joseph, from the heart of Mauves in the southern zone, Jean Gonon saw things as follows: "we had 78mm (3 inches) of rain across the day of 7 September, and the night of 7-8 September. It was a soft, continuous rain, not the violent fall that had been announced, so there was no damage in the vineyards, always a good start. 30mm would have been better, but we have observed a strange phenomenon that maturity has accelerated rapidly after the rain. My white grapes have become golden, the Syrah has advanced, and in my garden so have my tomatoes [faster than mine, Jean, faster than mine! Ed.]. A lot of colleagues find the same thing after the rain, even though the degree has fallen a little."
"We have fine but not very fine weather for now - the North Wind is not frank, but all we need now is dry conditions. The forecast is for 10 days of fine weather. The crop is healthy, attractive. After the rain during flowering, people thought the crop would be small, but that has not been the case, and we actually dropped grapes last week. Yield will be normal, around 35 hl/ha. I will start the whites on 20 September, the Syrah on 25 September. Some people have started to pick, but if you taste the Syrah now, the skin is still tough, the grapes are tart and there is still tartaric acid in them."
François Merlin reported that his Saint-Joseph Syrah was not especially advanced: "flowering was under rain this year, so I am aiming to harvest late September or early October, at least a week behind my Côte-Rôtie. We had 63mm (2.5 inches) on 6-7 September, but by 10 September the weather was fine, with a North Wind that is not too strong helping to clean the vineyards. I will be harvesting my Condrieu Viognier from 20 September. The influence of the wind this year has led to small berries on the Viognier bunches. As a result, I expect quantity around 30-35 hl/ha, a bit below the average. After the rain, I sense that degree and acidity have been concentrated., and the grapes have become riper. Strangely this year my Côte-Rôtie Syrah is riper at this stage than my Condrieu Viognier - normally it is the other way around."
In the SOUTHERN RHÔNE, a few reports also follow: at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Daniel Brunier of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe and La Roquète told me: "we had 140mm (5.6 inches) of rain from late on 6 September until the night of 7-8 September. Overall the rain has been about half positive, half negative. The later-ripening and dry zones gained, and of course the Mourvèdre was suited by the rain to finish its ripening, whereas the Syrah was largely ripe already, and the white crop has not been helped by the rain. The rain has been well spread across the appellation this time. The previous fall was 30mm (1.2 inches) around Orange, Beaucastel and Coudoulet in late August, while the south and centre around the village of Châteauneuf only had 5mm (0.2 inch) at the same time."
"Mistral wind followed on 8 September, and we were back harvesting by 9 September. At present we have harvested 80% of our white Vieux Télégraphe crop with a yield around 30-31 hl/ha, and will start on Roquète next week - from 13 September. We have also picked a bit of Syrah from Roquète and Grenache for Télégramme. There has already been Grenache on La Crau at 15° and 15°2, so we will really get going on Monday 13 September."
Referring to his Gigondas estate, the beautiful Les Pallières, Daniel continued: "we had 80mm (3.2 inches) of rain on 6-8 September, after 30mm (1.2 inches) at the end of August. The rain was less stormy than at Châteauneuf - it was a finer, slower rain, so there was less trauma for the vines. On 6 September before the rain, the Grenache at Pallières was 14.4° - now we will probably delay our harvesting for at least a week; the soil has clay there, and doesn`t drain as well as at Châteauneuf. The Mistral today is strong, around 60km an hour, and it is about 24°C."
The west bank Gard département and the Southern Ardèche received a lot of rain, but mainly in the far western areas away from the Rhône corridor, and prime vineyards. At Laudun in the Côtes du Rhône Villages, the accomplished Domaine Pelaquié started to harvest on 10 September, under fine weather. The first rain on 6-7 September there was 150mm (6 inches), then 100mm (4 inches) the following night.
A bit further north, in the southern Ardèche, Hélène Thibon-Macagno of Mas de Libian told me: "we have a small crop because of the Grenache coulure. We started to harvest last week, although a lot of people have started this week, after the rain. We were spared the worst of the local rain - we had 30mm (1.2 in) on the night of 6 September, then 40mm (1.6 in) on the night of 7-8 September, whereas places right in the Cevennes hills corridor in the far west of the Gard département - St Hippolyte du Fort, for instance, north-west of Nîmes - had 300mm (12 in). We have picked about one-third of our crop. The Syrah berries are not big, but are OK, and the Mourvèdre is in good condition. We have strong Mistral today, the temperature is 25°C, set to rise to 28°C on 12 September, and the forecast is good for the next week."
early September 2010 News: the night of Monday 6-7 September is forecast to deliver plenty of rain all over the Rhône, so there is a certain amount of holding of breath across all regions. The one let-out is the lack of rain so far, and the fact that fine weather is also forecast to come in around 9-10 September, with Mistral wind in the south.
In the NORTHERN RHÔNE, a few reports follow: at Côte-Rôtie, Brigitte Roch of Domaine Clusel-Roch, while preparing 200 kg of chips to go with steak at La Vogue, the party in Ampuis for 18 year old conscripts, where pastis and beer are the order of the evening: "we are told there will be 50-100 mm of rain (2-4 inches) tomorrow, 7 September, but for now we are content, and expect to harvest 20-25 September, with a fair-sized crop of 35 hl/ha. The first week of September has been very beau, hot and dry for now." Côte-Rôtie has been dry this year, and not received the rain that has fallen locally at Chavanay to the south.
At Cornas, Pierre-Marie Clape: "today the vineyard is truly excellent, but around 100mm (4 inches) of rain is announced for tonight, 6 September. We had 20mm (0.8 inch) of rain on 15 August, and 5mm (0.2 inch) on 19-20 August, which has helped the vineyard in the face of the dry conditions.
We have also been helped by hot days followed by cold nights - around 25-26 August the days were 34-35°C, but the nights 13°C, meaning good levels of acidity. Even today, 6 September, it has been 30°C, with 12°C in the morning - very good for colour and polyphenol (tannin) levels. Our Syrah is now at 13°+, with total acidity of over 5 gm. On La Côte (central site), the Syrah is at 13.25° and 5.7 gm acidity - the acidity is mainly tartaric, not malic, indicating that it will remain. As things stand, we expect to harvest around 20 September. The bunches look pretty good, and we may be at yields of around 38 hl/ha."
At Crozes-Hermitage, Maxime Graillot of Domaine des Lises: "things are nickel for now, with rain announced for tomorrow; we have had no rain in August, although 20mm (0.8 inch) just before the véraison (grapes turning colour) at the end of July was helpful. Bunches can be small, but are healthy. The yield looks like being a bit less than our high figure of 50 hl/ha in 2009 - around 40 hl/ha. We had a very little oïdium at Hermitage in mid-August, but our little vineyard there is at the foot of the slopes with heavier soils than the most noble sites such as Le Méal. I expect to harvest my Crozes crop on 22-22 September, and my Cornas on 20 September - my vines are on very precocious spots - Sabarotte, for instance."
At Condrieu and Saint-Joseph, Philippe Faury of Domaine Faury: "we have had a very good September so far, up to 6 September, with rain announced for tomorrow, but good weather again from 9-10 September. The Viognier is set to give a good yield, helped by the fact that it flowered before the cold weather of early June - we expect around 35 hl/ha for it. We had a few helpful storms, but no hail, here at Chavanay in August."
At Saint-Péray, Pierre-Marie Clape: on 3 September, our degree was at 12.2°, with total acidity of 4.35 gm - we will probably pick around 15 September, with a correct yield. Some growers have already harvested crop for their méthode champenoise wines."
In the SOUTHERN RHÔNE, a few reports also follow: at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes: "40mm to 50mm of rain would be perfect (1.6 to 2 inches), along with the 3 days of Mistral wind after the rain that have also been announced for 6-7 September. There are quartiers where the tannic ripening lags behind the sugars, and I find the south of Châteauneuf a bit more ripe than the northern area. It`s not bad at all, and similar to the last few very good years we have had - 2005 though to 2009, missing out 2008. We have had a lot of coulure on the Grenache this year (failure of flowers to convert into fruit), which meant we did less green harvesting than usual, and we found millerandage on the bunches - bunches that lacked grapes. That means yields will be around 22 hl/ha for me as things stand, against under 20 hl/ha in 2009, and only 16.8 hl/ha in 2008. The Mourvèdre is ripening close to the Syrah this year."
"When I look back through my records, I see that the current cycle is one of a dry summer, but with rain of some quantity in September. In 2005, we had 92mm (3.7 inches) of rain from 5-8 September, plus 11 mm on 11 September; in 2006, it was 165mm (6.6 inches) from 13-16 September, and so on, so rain at this stage is OK. In fact, the old adage of mid-July and mid-August rain being the saviour of the vintage seems to have gone by the board. I will probably start about mid-September," Vincent concluded.
In the first week of September, the Maison des Vignerons at Châteauneuf found Syrah at 13.1° and Mourvèdre at 12.7°. Colour, tannin and acidity levels are all good.
At Gigondas, Jean-Pierre Meffre of Domaine Saint-Gayan is happy with events so far, up until 6 September: "the crop is pretty, there is no trace of rot - it is very healthy. We were helped at Gigondas by our rainfall of 28-30mm (1.2 inches) on 15 August - the grapes would have been in trouble but for that. Acidity levels are also very good - a result of the hot days but cool to cold nights this year. The second half of August, we were having days at 28-30°C, but mornings at 10-11°C - these levels of acidity will also help us to resist rot.
Yields are down, around 28 hl/ha, because of the worst Grenache coulure (flowers, but no fruit after that, thanks to cold wind and weather in early June) we have had here for some years. The Syrah is very good this year, but needs picking. I expect to harvest my Côtes du Rhône grapes on 15 September, against 5 September last year."
At Rasteau, there was more rain in mid-August - 40mm (1.8 inches) - but there the growers are finding little juice in their white crop because of the dry summer.
The most rain in mid-August was in the southern Drôme, and Richerenches (ex-Tricastin, now Grignan-Adhémar) received around 100mm (4 inches).
At Tavel, Fabrice Delorme of Domaine de la Mordorée: "we started on the whites on 2 September, and will be moving on to the red crop around 9-10 September. The only red picked so far has been some very ripe Grenache for our red vin de pays. We are happy for the moment. We had only a little rain in mid-August - 5mm (0.2 inch) at Tavel, and 15 mm (0.6 inch) at Lirac. Our vineyard at Châteauneuf - on La Crau, and Cabrières, for instance - is in good shape."
FULL RECENT ADDITIONS:
mid-lateSeptember 2010: please check out the very successful merchant range from Louis Barruol at Château Saint Cosme at Gigondas - these wines trade with the name Saint Cosme on the label, are mainly Northern Rhône, and are very good. There is a delightful 2009 w.o.w. red as well, a wine to get on and enjoy now.
mid-September 2010: for Swedish readers, I tried two recent arrivals from the System Bolaget, one good value, the other less so. See the Louis Chèze Vin de Pays Syrah 2009 note (SEK89 or £8), and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine de Villeneuve Vieilles Vignes red 2007 (SEK339, or £30), a wine that raises some debate.
2009 Northern Rhône whites have been added to, in the shape of Saint-Péray and Saint-Joseph. I prefer the former to the latter, and would include its 2008 vintage as well - both indicate a risurgimento as a wider group of growers - Cuilleron and friends, Chapoutier - take an interest, even a young debutant called Rémy Nodin.
late August 2010: 2009 Northern Rhône whites were pretty successful, but I would highlight Crozes-Hermitage white 2009 as a real star this year - wines of consummate appeal, very drinkable, and fuller than in all recent years. Yum yum. Condrieu 2009 is also reviewed - a robust set of wines, no surprise, given the extreme heat in August. See 2009 Northern Rhône in the Left Hand column.
Crozes-Hermitage 2008 reds are less glorious, but have been reviewed under the 2008 Northern Rhône tab. Recent domaine visits include at Côte-Rôtie, Guigal, Gilles Barge and Stéphane Ogier. The Guigal top 2006 reds of Château d`Ampuis, Mouline, Turque and Landonne have all been tasted now they are in bottle. At Condrieu, André Perret`s range has been tasted during a July 2010 visit.
late July 2010: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe at Châteauneuf-du-Pape - including a first look at the 2009 red, and the 2008 bottled wine across the range, that includes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine La Roquète. Also the 2009 and 2008 at the Bruniers` Domaine Les Pallières at Gigondas, where the Les Racines cuvée is starting to make a name for itself.
A look at the 5 main grape varieties involved in the red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château de Beaucastel 2009 has also been included after a mid-summer visit.
RASTEAU MOVES INTO THE BIG LEAGUE
Rasteau now has full appellation cru status on its own for its red wine, joining its Vin Doux Naturel fortified wine as well as the likes of Vacqueyras, Vinsobres, Beaumes-de-Venise and Lirac in the highest echelon of the Southern Rhône hierarchy. Boy, this has been a long, on-off saga. What happens is an inspection of the vineyards by geologists and agronomes, once the body of the growers including of course the Co-operative has invited them so to do [note, adroit use of official language easily slipped into when reporting such weighty bureaucratic matters].
All the while, there is a hovering Sword of Damocles over some vineyards that are deemed unworthy [there I go again] of providing the quality of wine suited to full appellation cru status. In the final case of Rasteau, about 100 hectares have been omitted from roughly 1,300 hectares - just under 8%. Their wine will now be a simple Côtes du Rhône. These are mostly lower lying zones, such as the Saint-Martin and Blovac Sud sites; their soils are dark clay, alluvial, but some locals consider their wine superior to the Plan de Dieu Villages next door: "you get drought on the Plan de Dieu, and the vineyard really suffers," one Rasteau practitioner told me.
The Rasteau Cave Co-operative Ortas accounts for about 65% of the appellation`s wine, the rest made up by about 26 private domaines, a few of whom (younger domaines rather than Cairanne aristocracy) also have vineyards in Cairanne immediately to the west. Rasteau white and rosé will now be labelled Côtes du Rhône. Cairanne`s process towards appellation cru will be attempted "at an accelerated pace," Daniel Alary of Domaine Alary told me - "perhaps four years. Our commission starts this summer, 2010."
Rasteau should have been made into its own cru long ago. It has always been a front runner in the Villages stakes, with its name perhaps held back by the obscurity of its Vin Doux Naturel, which happens to be traversing rather a fine phase at present, well made with care and attention by young and motivated growers.
"This is a long-term project," André Romero of Domaine La Soumade told me; "it is not a short-term event, especially as we put in our first request 15 years ago. Prices will start off similar." André fancies Spain for the World Cup, I fancy Brasil, by the way. Ordem e Progresso para todo o mundo, I declare. Already Romero has got one over me: back to the drawing board (or Copacabana beach, where I was once known as "Bobber Shalton" (the fair hair, you see). Disorder, more like.
RECENT ADDITIONS
late July 2010: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe at Châteauneuf-du-Pape - including a first look at the 2009 red, and the 2008 bottled wine across the range, that includes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine La Roquète. Also the 2009 and 2008 at the Bruniers` Domaine Les Pallières at Gigondas, where the Les Racines cuvée is starting to make a name for itself.
A look at the 5 main grape varieties involved in the red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château de Beaucastel 2009 has also been included after a mid-summer visit.
July 2010: two serious domaines, worthy of full attention - note the contrast in scale: the 42 hectare Côtes du Rhône Château de Montfaucon beside the Rhône near Hannibal`s point of crossing at Roquemaure and the more than double that size Château de Beaucastel at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Montfaucon is improving all the while, while at Beaucastel the 2008s, 2007s and the 2006 red were checked in June 2010. The excellent Perrin & Fils range has also been reviewed, taking in the 2007s that are now all bottled, and some of the 2008s. See Perrin & Fils under Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
To follow: after June 2010 visits.
June 2010: at last, after a seemly interval, I have put up a report on McLaren Vale, South Australia, a region I visited as the International Judge last October. I cover what this vineyard zone south of Adelaide is doing with its Rhône variety grapes, which hold a big say in the area`s future. McLaren Vale is reminiscent of parts of California in being coastal, breezy, and its food and wine scene is moving towards a more organic, more enterprising approach - a far cry from the old "lager only after 5 pm, mate", mentality that existed in the past. See the left-hand tab McLaren Vale.
Look up Veterans Corner for a duo of shapely 1980s Côte-Rôties - the 1985 Gilbert Clusel La Viallière and the 1988 Bernard Burgaud. Drunk in Oslo with my old friend the importer extraordinaire to Norway and Sweden, Christopher Moestue. One sole, careful owner, and a healthy Nordic climate brought out the best in these two old stagers.
Also a trio of old white Rhônes - the rain-sodden 1993 vintage features - and also for a magnum of 1979 red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Les Cailloux. This was my contribution to a Wine Trade luncheon held in the august, historic surroundings of the Directors Dining Room at Berry Brothers in St James`s Street, London, with original William Morris wallpaper lining the top of the wood-panelled walls.
STGT: note the Ermitage Le Pavillon red 2001 from M.Chapoutier. Also a brace of Beaumes-de-Venise reds from two family domaines, Chiniard and Grangeneuve - an encouraging sign for this still young red wine appellation.
w.o.w. note the Vieille Ferme 2009 Ventoux from Perrin & Fils - a real winner this year.
May 2010: Look up Veterans Corner for a brace of mature white Rhônes - the subject of my eternal pet hobby, to get the world to appreciate them more. Also check the STGT Cornas 2005 La Geynale from now retired Robert Michel. Further STGT from the biodynamic Saint-Joseph Domaine Monier-Perréol, also.
The first across-the-appellation review has been done on Gigondas 2008, and also Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2008, both red and white. It is a cherry picking vintage, not buy anything that moves, so please read the grower comments as well to get an idea of the sort of challenges faced in its making, and, importantly, its assembly before bottling. Click on the L-H tab 2008 Southern Rhône.
2008 Northern Rhône features a review of the leading wines at Cornas. where it pays to be selective, and a charming vintage at Condrieu, from the roughly 35 wines tasted so far.
April 2010: a full review of 2007 Gigondas reds has been posted under 2007 Southern Rhône Leading Wines. Click on 2007 Southern Rhône, then on the tab underneath Leading Wines. Many of these Gigondas have been tasted twice, in cask and latterly in bottle, which is of course a much more reliable indicator. I am utterly suspicious of Grand Pronouncements on the wines of a vintage before bottling - cask samples can give an idea, but before the wine has been finally assembled, they can be misleading. Generally the trend I found between late 2008 and late 2009 was favourable - a majority of the wines had made progress. 2008 Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape will follow - a vintage which will gain over time, but one that is likely to receive less oaking.
At Vacqueyras, the Domaine La Fourmone has been entered: Roger Combe made a firm impression on me when I first met him in the early 1970s - here was a man who spoke (and wrote) fluent Provençal, so, like papa Frédéric Alary at Cairanne - the boys now run Oratoire St Martin and Domaine Alary, he was both a man of letters and of the soil. His daughters Marie-Thérèse and Aline were his successors on the domaine, which in 1973-74 was most unusual in an almost 100% male-dominated activity. Marie-Thérèse is now also an accomplished painter. Fourmone produces both Vacqueyras and Gigondas, and has a small merchant business that takes in some Northern Rhônes as well.
At Gigondas new domaines posted include the very well-established Domaine Les Goubert, where Jean-Pierre Cartier prodcues an array of different cuvées across Gigondas, Sablet and Beaumes-de-Venise. His Cuvée Florence caused consternation when introduced in 1985, since it was raised for 9 months in new Vosges oak casks. Tasting of this goes back many years, so the oak effect over time can be gauged. Also the small scale Domaine La Bouscatière, with STGT tendencies, and the promising STGT, whole bunch Domaine Les Chênes Blancs, the reliable Cave de Gigondas and Bertrand Stehelin.
At Beaumes-de-Venise, a small, quite recent start-up, the Domaine Chiniard. A pretty good example of newcomers to wine, who work the vineyards naturally, and make their wine without artifice. In the local vein, the wines are robust, but honest, not Superhighway, and the 2007 is STGT. For Eurostar travellers who find they have a thirst on near the Gare du Nord in Paris, it is on sale at the Caves Bardou, the nearest wine shop, at 124 rue Faubourg St Denis off the gloriously named Boulevard de Magenta (salut, je m`appelle Magenta, what an intro), for €14.50.
A trio of very sound domaines, as well: at Rasteau, Domaine des Coteaux des Travers, and its robust wines. At Beaumes-de-Venise, the Domaine Saint Amant, pioneers in high altitude Viognier in the Rhône, their red wines making recent progress, with the astute Camille Wallut at the helm. And at the much blighted Tricastin, having dropped the cumbersome Coteaux du and after nuclear mishaps having also applied unsuccessfully to change the name to Côtes du Rhône, the leading property Domaine de Grangeneuve.
A note of interest for lovers of Hermitage: a vertical of Domaine du Colombier 2002,2003, 2004 and 2005 from late last year: the striking point was that, despite the vineyards not being on the most nbole west end of the hill, each one faithfully reflected its vintage. Colombier is listed under the Crozes-Hermitage appellation.
early March 2010: a report on Les Vins Naturels has been added under Recent Tastings. It focuses on the domaines of Dard & Ribo at Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Gramenon in the southern Côtes du Rhône, and Jean-Michel Stéphan at Côte-Rôtie. These are low intervention growers, who work purely organically, down to little or no use of sulphur dioxide during fermentation and raising.
A few Southern Rhône domaines recently added: in the Côtes du Rhône, two prime organic estates, mother and son: Domaine Gramenon, and the new domaine of Michèle Aubéry-Laurent`s son, Maxime, under the title Maxime-François Laurent. At Rasteau, the Domaine de Beaurenard - the Rasteau offshoot of the Coulons` accomplished Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate, and at Ventoux, a promising, well above average quality property, the Domaine Champ Long, who are cousins of the Bernard family who run the Domaine La Garrigue at Vacqueyras and the delightful Hotel Les Florets at Gigondas.
During February a lot of 2007 and 2008 tasting notes on Gigondas have been added - the 2007s now mostly in bottle, and the 2008s out of the vat. Domaines now present at Gigondas are Notre Dame des Pallières, where quality is rising, the Mas des Flauzières, where quality is also on the rise after excessive extraction in the early 2000s, the also improved Domaine de la Mavette - more body in the wines than 10 years ago - and the small start-up the Mas des Restanques, whose owners are ex-Co-operateurs. Good marks for the class of Gigondas!
At Châteauneuf-du-Pape, two recent newcomers have also been put up: Albin Jacumin and Domaine La Destinée. Albin is part of the soap opera saga - think the 1980s TV programme Dallas, perhaps - surrounding the Château de Cabrières, where lawsuits are flying over inheritance after the divorce of the Arnaud parents. His old 10 hectare Domaine was called La Bégude des Papes. He will become a grower of importance by 2011, with over 20 hectares in total due to come his way - providing the lawyers do not slow the whole thing down. More simply, but interestingly, Domaine La Destinée`s owner Jean-Pierre Folliet came to wine via being a Professor of Tasting, and has a wine shop as well. His wine is good and traditional.
Around the Côtes du Rhône Villages, there are some new names. Set on the Plan de Dieu, the Château La Courançonne has always been good supplier of white and red Séguret, with the Villages wine of Plan de Dieu now stated on the label. Under Côtes du Rhône, in the lower part of the Drôme département, a new domaine, the Clos des Cîmes, first vintage 2007, has been entered - two young people, both oenologues, but one with viticulture in her family, an ex-Co-operatrice. Also under Côtes du Rhône, very near Avignon, the Domaine Saint-Pierre d`Escaravaillac, owned by the Requin family since 1889, has been posted.
Across the river, at Laudun, the Château de Marjolet is a recent name for Laudun red, while the Château de Montfaucon is a very good source of Côtes du Rhône, especially the more full-bodied wine. Also in the Gard, in the accomplished village of Domazan, the Domaine des Romarins has been added, with authentic, robust wines as their trademark. Another start-up in the right bank Gard département is La Gramière, makers of Vin de Table from Côtes du Rhône vineyards, with a US involvement. In the southern Ardèche, the high quality Vin de Pays estate Domaine du Grangeon has been added, with good value wines.
All on its own, for the eclectic, the well-off, the curious: the 2005 Château-Grillet was solemnly tasted over 2 days, to assess and enjoy and appraise this little piece of history, whose style is changing.
late-January 2010: 2008 vintage entries: keep using the Search vintage 2008, or look out for the LVT 2008 (Last Vintage Tasted) acronym alongside domaines. Some of the preferred ones have been entered recently. Few wines achieve 4 to 5 star ratings in 2008, but there are plenty around the 3 star mark, which can be good value from regions such as the Côtes du Rhône and Gigondas.
A couple of right bank Côtes du Rhône domaines have been entered, both at the village of St Marcel de l`Ardèche, and both run by talented women - the Mas de Libian of Hélène and Catherine Thibon, and the Domaine Coulange of Christelle Coulange, the latter taking the brave and realistic decision to sell off all her 2008 in bulk.
At Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a few high-class estates have been brought up to date: Domaine de Beaurenard, Domaine de Cristia, Château Rayas, while the Gigondas-owned Château St Jean of Christian Meffre has been added. Over 30 white 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Papes have also been entered - look out for LVT 2008 wh under the domaines.
At Cairanne, a quartet of domaines, two very established, the others new to quite new: the racy fruit and fun of Marcel Richaud, the Belgian-owned debutant Domaine de la Tête Noire - both offer w.o.w. wines - and the Domaine Armand, with sound Rasteau as well as Cairanne. Also the Domaine Catherine Le Goueil, now making just one wine, called simply Cairanne - a robust wine.
At Sablet, the Jean-Marc Autran Domaine de Piaugier, an innovator 20-plus years ago with oak use and a cleaned-up vinification - Sablet (inc good white) and Gigondas on offer from a wide range of cuvées. Also at Sablet, the Domaine de Boissan of Christian Bonfils, a go-go contemporary of Autran: good Sablet, also good, elegant Gigondas, with some very old vintages reviewed.
At Gigondas, the recently started Domaine des Florets of Jérome Boudier, up past the great hostelry of Les Florets - so in the lee of the Dentelles - has been entered, along with the definitely promising Domaine du Grand Bourjassot - very sound wines from Gigondas and Sablet, with at Vinsobres, the steady Domaine Autrand.
In the Côtes du Rhône, the younger brother of Château Rayas, the high quality, exotic Château de Fonsalette has had its 2008s and 2007s reviewed. Added also have been two modest domaines - Domaine du Bois des Mèges at Violès, and the keen start-up of Domaine Gris des Bauries at Taulignan, in the southern Drôme. Likewise at the Côtes du Rhône, the easy drinking wines of Domaine de la Berthèthe near the Plan de Dieu. In the Villages, the reliable Co-operative the Quatre Chemins de Laudun has been added - good, fruity wines.
On its own, the appellation of Brézème south of Valence, has been included, the home of good Syrah: this I placed in my book The Wines of the Northern Rhône as it is out on a limb, near the mouth of the River Drôme as it nears the mighty Rhône, having passed through what is some spectacular country east of Crest ("Crey"). Jean-Marie Lombard is the main grower, although Eric Texier, the merchant, is also active and productive there.
Just brought up to date at Hermitage, the STGT grower and near-veteran, Bernard Faurie; he also makes Saint-Joseph, and his 2008s and 2009s have been inspected. The complete line-up of wines from Delas - their 2007s in bottle, and some of their leadings 2008s have been fully reviewed: this remains a house with a very high quality given the number of wines they produce. At Crozes-Hermitage, the offbeat duo of René-Jean Dard and François Ribo (Dard & Ribo) have been visited, with their w.o.w. and STGT wines including Crozes, Saint-Joseph and Hermitage. Plenty of 2009 cask samples were also tasted chez eux. The 2008s and 2007s of Yann Chave, much more mainstream, have also been reported on, as have the 2009s, 2008s and 2007s of Luc Tardy at Domaine du Murinais - also a modern, clean as a whistle fruit operator. At Cornas, the full range of wines from Jean-Luc Colombo - his Cornas 10 hectares, Saint Péray 2 hectares and the négociant wines from north and south - have been tasted and entered, including some interesting whites. At Saint-Joseph, the modest local domaine near Chavanay, Domaine Richard, has been revised, while at Côte-Rôtie, some impressive 2006s, 2007s and 2008s have been tasted at the Guigal-owned Domaine de Bonserine.
December 2009: back from the Rhône, back, just, without sleeping the night in a snow drift near Brighton, from Helsinki, the first 2008 tasting notes are being gradually fed in. It is a vintage that needs micro-investigation - what the French term "le travail de fourmi (the work of an ant). No blanket statements can be made. Each domaine must be judged separately. Under Saint-Joseph, notes on the whites of Domaine Bernard and Fabrice Gripa should be looked at. Under Hermitage, the 2008s of Marc Sorrel, and his 2007s, all of which are now bottled, are also reviewed. Also under Hermitage, the new venture Nicolas Jaboulet, Perrin Frères has been added, a merchant business that started in August, 2009, and released its first wines in November, 2009. Under Cornas, the 2006, 2007 and 2008 (in cask) of Thiérry Allemand have been tasted in December chez the enfant terrible.
Under Condrieu, the Domaine Georges Vernay range was tasted, including a 1976 Coteau de Vernon, which is also covered under Recent Tastings under the title 1979 & 1976 Georges Vernay. And the Domaine Faury has been updated, their whites from 2009 and 2008, their reds from 2008 and 2007. At Côte-Rôtie, the organic, sometimes no sulphur child Jean-Michel Stéphan and his range of 2007s, 2008s, 2009s have been entered. Jean-Michel is a rare example of carbonic maceration use, his inspiration being the late Jules Chauvet of justified past Beaujolais fame. Also the highly promising Christophe Billon`s 2007s, 2008s and 2009s have been reviewed, as have the 2009s, 2008s and 2007s of another young Turk, Stéphane Pichat, and the traditional Domaine Gallet.
Cornas (cheval mascot) alert: the mighty Cornas WON by 13 LENGTHS (13 longueurs pour ses fans les vignerons) in his 2mile, 1.5 furlong steeplechase for younger horses on Dec 17 at Exeter. He was actually joint favourite at odds of 11/10 and eased round, jumping accurately, and won without being fussed by his rivals. His sore hoof (the first four letters of his name, actually) had been attended to, and he prevailed in style. I vaguely cheered him on from minus 15 Centigrade in Finland while discussing the merits or otherwise of the Finnish economy, (unemployment rising in 2010), while the race was run, without my usual bottle of 1991 Clape Cornas to hand. Probably just as well. ALLEZ, CORNAS! His fan club grows all the while, and I took the opportunity of informing the Mayor at the December Cornas Wine Market that his foreign ambassador had 4 legs, and a much higher profile than him. He took it in good part.
DOMAINE FLORENTIN BOUGHT BY DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE
Officially signed and sealed at the end of July, 2009, the Saint-Joseph Domaine Florentin has been bought by Jean-Louis Chave - both families resident in the little Ardèche village of Mauves. This was a private deal, with the Florentin family approaching Monsieur Chave. The transfer comprises the fabled 4 hectares of Le Clos, 1 hectare of vines near its boundary stream on the Coteau La Carrière, a hectare on the hillside sub-site of La Tête de l`Aigle on Les Côtes at Mauves, and two to three unplanted hectares on the Mauves hillside. La Tête de l`Aigle site is being re-planted or cleared, and shows great promise for the future.
Recovering from pneumonia, Jean-Louis Chave stated: "it is a place that has always made me dream - it has been there since the sixteenth century, and is the one property like that at Mauves and in the region. There is just the one owner, the vines are on granite, and it is not there by chance - it is south-facing, keeps the sun very late in the day, and has its own little garden. The objective is to make a wine of singularity, individuality, one that has its own origins. It was our good fortune that it was never on the market."
The Clos was for many years called Clos de l`Arbalestrier, until a Swiss wine merchant challenged the use of its name in 2001. The estate was bought by Dr Emile Florentin in 1956, and his children had juggled working it alongside their own activities such as the practice of homeopathy. The vineyard`s Syrah averages around 50 years, while the 1 hectare of Roussanne and Marsanne averages towards 30 years` old.
Practices here included the use of a horse to work the vineyard, with minimal spraying and intervention - all encouraging for Jean-Louis Chave. In the cellar, the style was to leave the wines a very long time in old oak - with oxidative tendencies as a result. "I will make a separate Saint-Joseph with this under the name Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, just as I will with the vineyard I planted at Lemps on the granite hill there," says Jean-Louis. "I expect a wine of finesse, one that is very, very fine."
Jean-Louis worked the vineyard from January 2009, starting with its pruning, so the 2009 wine will be an authentic addition to the Chave stable: a Syrah of some pedigree awaits, therefore, with the bonus of a refined white Saint-Joseph as well.
RECENT ADDITIONS
December 2009: back from the Rhône, the first 2008 tasting notes are being gradually fed in. It is a vintage that needs micro-investigation - what the French term "le travail de fourmi (the work of an ant). No blanket statements can be made. Each domaine must be judged separately. Under Saint-Joseph, notes on the whites of Domaine Bernard and Fabrice Gripa should be looked at. Under Hermitage, the 2008s of Marc Sorrel, and his 2007s, all of which are now bottled, are also reviewed. Also under Hermitage, the new venture Nicolas Jaboulet, Perrin Frères has been added, a merchant business that started in August, 2009, and released its first wines in November, 2009. Under Cornas, the 2006, 2007 and 2008 (in cask) of Thiérry Allemand have been tasted in December chez the enfant terrible. mid-November 2009: starting to be fed in are STGT and w.o.w. wines tasted in the Rhône this month, along with the first 2009s, notably the whites. Look for any STGT wine with 11/09 as the tasting date. The vins de pays 2008s are shaping into very good value, easy drinking wines - there are some under the w.o.w. bracket, and right good they are, too. Domaines visited and written up so far are at Condrieu, the two Frankies - François Merlin, and François Villard, along with the nicely local, STGT-leaning Marie & Pierre Benetière.
One of my first ever visits to Condrieu in June, 1973, was to Pierre`s brother who was then a négociant in the regional wines, and thus one of the few people dealing in finished wine in bottles at the time. My domestic drinking in Aix-en-Provence was the starred litre bottle, plastic top, Ventoux red and rosé from the Cave de Beaumes-de-Venise, about 80 centimes a pop if I remember rightly. Bottles with corks were for big hitters.
At Côte-Rôtie, René Rostaing and the brothers Bonnefond, Patrick & Christophe have also been revised. At Saint-Joseph, neighbours Emmanuel Barou, Pierre Finon and Pascal Marthouret, the first two successful with vins de pays and Finon especially with his whites, the last-named in the w.o.w. camp. Also Louis Chèze, up on the plateau at Limony, whose domaine has almost become an empire since he started in the 1980s, and Domaine du Chêne at Chavanay. At Séguret, the ever reliable, good quality Domaine de Cabasse, also a hotel in the summer months, has been added, as has a small but active enterprise at Ventoux, at the village of Le Barroux, St Jean du Barroux. (Mass in the church there is spoken in Latin). At Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages, a young man with a small vineyard, Hervé Bessac, is a new entry, as is the large 70+hectare Côtes du Rhône estate at Suze-la-Rousse, Château La Borie, provider of well-fruited wines. Another good domaine with clearly-fruited wines is Domaine Marie-Blanche at Signargues, one of the recent Côtes du Rhône Villages.
More field visits are now in progress.
NEWLY PUBLISHED: THE FINEST WINES OF CHAMPAGNE, Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is an old friend, but there are good reasons for including a review of his new book here. Elegant prose is one - "coaxing dancing vitality from the grapes" when pressing - is one. Another is the precision of the writing across 100 domaines, houses and growers, their stories woven into reflections of how a certain wine tasted in its youth as compared to today. The stories are personal, and so is the style of writing - it would be a Cuvée Tradition if it were a Rhône wine. Many growers I have actually never heard of - the emphasis is particularly on the next generation of small growers able to make and sell their own hand-made wines, a signal force for the better in Champagne. There are photographs of each person behind the House or domaine, as well as well-taken vineyard and village views by Jon Wyand, a wine photo journalist of many years standing. It costs precisely £20, the price of a simple bottle of Champagne, and takes its firm place in the Best Value category of wine books.
The Finest Wines of Champagne, Michael Edwards, Fine Wine Editions, Aurum Press Limited, http://www.aurumpress.co.uk/ ISBN 978 1 84513 4860 £20
THE FANTASY WORLD OF JEAN-LUC COLOMBO
Jean-Luc Colombo, always a self-styled enfant terrible, shook up the rural burghers of Cornas when hitting the scene in the 1980s, and trumpeted a change for the better. Bordeaux casks, new oak, marketing gimmicks were all part of the package. Recently, it has been his wife Anne who has stoically stuck to the task of making his Rhône wines, from both vineyard and merchant grapes. Jean-Luc is not often in Cornas these days.
Now Jean-Luc has taken a journey in his mind that exceeds what most people would describe as lucid, or fair. His involvement in the Côte Bleue, a small area just west of Marseille, has been extolled on his website as follows: "a domaine with a micro-climate that produces surprising wines." He named the trio of red, rosé and white Les Pins Couchés, and said that he would be fighting to get this area its own appellation. The winemaker in its literature was named as Jean-Luc Colombo, the wine was a Coteaux d`Aix-en-Provence with the subtitle of Côte Bleue. Recently, the title had shifted to Rosé de Côte Bleue.
EXCEPT . . . . There never was any wine from this domaine, and Jean-Luc has been up before the beak, and found wanting. In his defence, he stated that he had dreamt of a domaine like this for a long time, and had decided to create it after the death of his mother in 1995. "I bought plots in 1992, but it is true that I had not launched the exploitation," he told the Tribunal, according to reports in Le Dauphiné Liberé. His hectares at Sausset-les-Pins never actually produced any wine. Instead, he bought wine from different cellars in the Coteaux d`Aix-en-Provence. Over the time in question, 2004 to 2007, that represented 80,000 bottles or turnover of €776,000.
Two fines of €2,000 for him and €15,000 for his business were levied, with his lawyer stating that "he did this above all for love. It was a wink to his origins."
Côte Bleue becomes Côte Fantôme. No further comment.
RECENT ADDITIONS
mid-October 2009: Cairanne and Rasteau are both applying for full appellation status, with Rasteau due to rise to that top tier first. The wines from both villages are some of the most enjoyable currently produced in the Rhône, and are also excellent value for money. Nor are they too gimmicky in approach. At Cairanne, Domaines Alary, des Amadieu and Berthet-Rayne M & A have been added, while at Rasteau, the traditional, hearty duo of Beau Mistral and Bressy Masson are now posted for their recent wines. Elsewhere, at the "keep an eye on" appellation of Massif d`Uchaux, a trio of Domaine de Dionysos, du Roucas Blanc, and the utterly reliable Château Saint-Estève d'Uchaux. Under the Côtes du Rhône appellation heading, the well-established, punchy Domaine Les Asseyras and two young growers, Sophie Vache at Domaine de Gigognan, and Sébastien Guigue at Domaine de la Rouette. At Gigondas, the Château de Trignon, that now belongs to Jérome Quiot of Domaine du Vieux Lazaret at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and at Visan, the reliable Cave des Coteaux, and the progressive Domaine des Lauriberts. Lastly, at Costières de Nimes, the excellent Mas Carlot of Nathalie Blanc-Marès.
October 2009: a very large review of 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape - the vintage at the time, where the wines are now - has been posted under RECENT TASTINGS. I am sure some of you are wondering when to drink these wines as they hit a more mature, second stage. As a consequence, a series of domaines at Châteauneuf-du-Pape now have older vintage tasting notes posted - notably Château Fortia, Château Rayas, Domaines Autard, Font de Michelle, Marcoux, Solitude, Villeneuve, also the most unusual and legendary (the word not used lightly) Château de Fonsalette under the Côtes du Rhône appellation heading. Added to Châteauneuf-du-Pape have been Domaine de Montpertuis, the reliable Co-operative Le Cellier des Princes at Courthézon, the very traditional, low profile Domaine du Banneret, the new, organic Domaine Benedetti and the Domaines Mousset of the Château des Fines Roches family, while under the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation features the Domaine de l`Arnesque, a domaine making steady efforts to improve quality.
September 2009: the final entries for 2007 Saint-Joseph red and white and for 2007 Saint-Péray have been completed under the 2007 Northern Rhône sidebar, and both are compared as usual to 2006. At Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a full entry of the part vineyard owner, mainly merchant Brotte, Père Anselme has been done, along with a refresh of Château La Nerthe, including older red and white vintages. The Domaine des Relagnes, part of which is now Domaine Olivier Hillaire, has been entered, while the the Brotte Châteauneuf Domaine Barville has been given its own entry, with wines tasted back to 1999. The Brotte-owned Château de Bord at Laudun, and at Cairanne, their partnership Domaine Grosset and the wonderfully traditional Domaine les Hautes Cances (that Col du Débat - well, fasten your seat belts) have also been entered, along with Domaine de la Renjarde at Massif d`Uchaux (Nerthe connections there). Also, relative newcomer Domaine de Givaudan on the west bank Côtes du Rhône.
2009 SO FAR
NORTHERN RHÔNE
CONDRIEU: Paul Amsellem, Domaine Georges Vernay: "our winter was a real winter, with cold, likewise the spring with good rainfall. We have seen summer temperatures between 30°C and 35°C. The vines are in magnificent shape, with no illnesses, and the rain we needed fortunately came on 25 August. We are a shade ahead, probably starting on 12 September - maybe ten days ahead of usual." 26 August.
Philippe Faury, Domaine Faury at Chavanay: "we have very pretty vines, we lack water, though. It`s very dry, has been very hot, no hail. We may start around 10 September." 3 August.
CORNAS: Vincent Paris: "the season started very well - it was quite dry, with rain when it was needed - for example, when the grapes were forming in April and May, including at night. Flowering was 10 days ahead of normal - around 20-25 May, and happened very quickly and well. Since June there has been less rain, and virtually none since the start of July. It is now very dry, and we have had to cut back some of the crop. Anyone who hasn`t cut back crop will have double the quantity this year. Rain would be welcome now - once a week in the night would be ideal! We had 5mm last night, 2 August, and it has fallen from the 30s°C to 23°C today, 3 August. The forecast is for the heat to resume back to around 32° from 6 August. In early July we had hot days up to 37°C. Our young vines are suffering a little. It is a year when the tannins could be a bit hard as a result of the lack of rain." 3 August 2009.
CÔTE-RÔTIE: Brigitte Roch of Clusel-Roch, while preparing a salad for the harvest team: "good quantity - 38-40 hl/ha for our Condrieu, and probably around 37 hl/ha for our Côte-Rôtie. We harvested the Viognier 1 September, and started our Syrah crop on Viallière today; when we finish that tomorrow, we will wait until 15 September, next Monday, before re-starting. On my last journey I brought in grapes of very good colour, with good total acidity, at 4 gm/litre - that was from 1985 Syrah from Viallière. It`s 28°C today; we had around 20mm in early September, after we had started on Condrieu." 8 September.
Jean-Paul Jamet, Domaine Jamet: "very good so far. There was an early start to the cycle, so now that we have cooler weather, the vines are still ahead, maybe by 8 days, having been 2 weeks ahead in mid-summer. The only minor defects have been a tiny amount of mildew and black rot. Our veraison (grapes turning colour) is well advanced now. We have had drops of rain here and there, so there is no stress on the vines and we have hardly had to drop any grapes. We would be ready for harvesting 15 September, but I would as usual like to wait a bit longer than that. Our last rain of consequence was about 25-30 mm (about 1 inch) in early July. Now it is cloudy and cool - 23-25°C - and 2009 is the third year in a row like those we used to have in the 1980s - just a few hot episodes rather than searing heat. The hottest days were a few in July at 35°C." 3 August.
CROZES-HERMUTAGE: Alain Graillot: "we harvested our white crop on 1 and 2 September, with yields better than expected, around 40 hl/ha, all very correct. We started the reds on 8 September - the Syrah is magnificent, ripe, free of any rot, good, ripe yellow stems. It is not a misery. One of my non-scientific vintage indices is that I`ve been getting telephone calls from growers in Burgundy, the south of France, Spain. When the vintage is poor, my telephone is silent." 9 September.
SAINT-JOSEPH: Pascal Marthouret: "2009 is good so far - the vines are magnificent. The old vines are OK, but given the lack of rain, the younger vines are beginning to show a little yellow on their leaves. We were behind in the spring. But now I`d say we are in advance. I would expect us to pick in the beginning of September, against the 20-25 September in 2008." late July 2009.
Philippe Faury, Domaine Faury: there is a low crop for the whites this year - the Marsanne and the Roussanne, like some people, like to rest from time to time. The reds have needed cutting back for less crop, but the vines on the slopes have felt the lack of rain. Our old vines are in good shape. We are set for a good vintage if all continues well." 3 August.
SOUTHERN RHÔNE
CHÂTEAUNEUF-du-PAPE: Michel Gonnet, Domaine Font de Michelle: "We are ending today, having started on some of our Châteauneuf whites on 28 August. The crop is very small, but the grapes are top quality. There isn`t the degree of 2003 or 2007 thanks to the mid-September rain. We had 60 mm (2.4 inches) here, and 30 mm in the Gard at our domaine at Domazan on 16th, with another 4 mm on 17 September here. We therefore waited until 25 September before re-starting at Châteauneuf. The polyphenolic ripening was unblocked by the rain, especially on the Grenache." 1 October.
Patrick Brunel, Château de la Gardine: "We end tomorrow, having started on our Roussanne at Châteauneuf on 26 August - we could even have picked it 4 days earlier, in effect, since it was very fast to ripen. We had good rain, around 37-45 mm (1.5+ inches) on 16 September, which lowered the degree and encouraged the polyphenolic ripening. The quality is very good, the yield is light. September has been hot, a true Indian summer. Now it is hot and cloudy." 1 October.
Michel Lançon, Domaine de la Solitude: "A small crop for us - we suffered from a lot of coulure (failure of flowers to convert into fruit) due to the Mistral during flowering, and we are looking at maybe 25 hl/ha for the reds. The quantity on the whites - the Roussanne and the Grenache blanc - is good, around 30-33 hl/ha. We had picked the Cinsault by 3 September, and then are pausing for 4 to 5 days. Ripening has been irregular, with the drought and blockages having their effect." 3 September.
Daniel Brunier, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe: "it`s healthy - we have a good crop for now, there aren`t too many grapes, either. Some zones, especially those with young vines, would benefit from rain, since July was dry and there was a lot of north wind which dehydrated the vines. We may start around Monday 7 September. The Syrah may be ripening ahead of its usual cycle, also in relation to the Grenache this year." 3 August.
GIGONDAS: Jean-Pierre Meffre, Domaine de Saint-Gayan:"2009 is a very particular year - not homogenous, with some areas very much in advance - for instance, some growers started to pick their white grapes on 26-27 August, while others find their crop lacks degree. I picked my white crop the first week of September - for my white Côtes du Rhône. The Viognier was at 15° and most unusually, the Bourboulenc, which I normally pick around 10 October at 11° or a little more, I picked a month early this year - at 12°. Some Grenache for my Côtes du Rhône is at 16°.
One of the important factors this year is there have been storms, but so localised as to make any easy harvesting decision impossible. Where there has been rain, the vines have never paused in their growing cycle, they have high degrees, they`re healthy, and can be picked now. For instance, at my northern end of Gigondas I had two rainfalls of 15mm (0.6 inch) in July-August, whereas at the southern end, towards Vacqueyras, they only had one 10mm and one 5mm fall.
At present, the days are 30°C, the nights 10°C - that`s good for the anthocyanins (anti-oxidants, colour agents) and thus for the colour of the wines, but no rain is forecast in the next few days. I estimate we are losing 10% of our juice per week with this drought - and that is on a crop that is already limited in size. I worry about excess concentration of tannins. I will probably destem all my Côtes du Rhône and Rasteau red crop this year; with my 90-100 year old Grenache at Gigondas, I will probably keep the stems. There will be some superb reds, but the year is less good for the rosés and the whites." 8 September.
Céline Chauvet, Domaine du Grapillon d`Or: "it is very good for now; we had a lot of winter rain, flowering and the veraison went well, and we are about a week ahead - say, the 15-20 September, against the 25-27 September of 2008. There was a rainfall of about 13mm (1/2 inch) on the night of August 1st, followed by a 50 km an hour Mistral, so everything is in good shape. There is a normal quantity in prospect." 4 August.
TAVEL: Fabrice Delorme, Domaine de la Mordorée: "impeccable vines, very healthy, we may be 3 or 4 days ahead of usual. There was welcome rain in the winter, a touch of coulure or poor fruit formation on the Grenache during flowering, and yields might be a little down on a year such as 2007. In June there were one or two hail storms in Saze, Domazan and Saint Laurent-des-Arbres, but nothing serious. July was dry and hot, the hottest days around 35-36°C. We had a well-timed rain shower of 8mm (1/3 inch) on the night of 1st August. Now, the 4 August, it is 27°C, and it`s good that recent nights have been fresh, down to 19°C or so. We may start on our whites in the last week of August." 4 August.
CÔTES-du-RHÔNE VILLAGES: Eric Michel, Domaine Cros de la Mûre at Massif d`Uchaux, with vines there and at Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape: "it`s been good so far, we have had interesting conditions. About 70 mm of rain in early June was important, and boosted the vineyard. This was followed by 45 days of good weather, which allowed the vegetation to develop. There is practically no illness in the vineyard this year. We have had a few storms, but nothing bad. There have been some very hot days. Very precocious - Châteauneuf-du-Pape is 8 days ahead, as are Gigondas and the Massif. If August goes well, we will start to pick the Massif vines in early September. Our Syrah vines are now nearly all red in colour. Yields are normal - there was a small amount of coulure here and there - May wasn`t that hot, so yields are average, but there were a bit fewer bunches on the vines this year. Yesterday, 2 August, we had 10mm of rain, followed by Mistral, so no real effect. 20 mm after 20 August would be ideal, and with the Mistral that could refine the tannins. Today it is 26°C, but previous days have been 30-33°C." 3 August.
CÔTES-du-RHÔNE: in the Gard, David Givaudan of Domaine de Givaudan, whose domaine is the later ripening little Tave valley, west of Laudun, said that he was starting the picking of his white and rosé crop the week of 7 September, and the red grape crop the following week. "Quality is very beautiful," he said. 4 September.
Also from the Gard, west bank of the river, Michel Lançon, Domaine de la Solitude reported: "We started 2009 harvesting on 3 September with our Roussanne; thankfully, we had two rainfalls in the Gard at Sabran in August, one of 12 mm (0.5 inch) and the other 19 mm (0.76 inch), so ripening went ahead smoothly." In August temperatures got to around 40°C." 3 September.
RECENT ADDITIONS
September 2009: the final entries for 2007 Saint-Joseph red and white and for 2007 Saint-Péray have been completed under the 2007 Northern Rhône sidebar, and both are compared as usual to 2006. At Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a full entry of the part vineyard owner, mainly merchant Brotte, Père Anselme has been done, along with a refresh of Château La Nerthe, including older red and white vintages. The Brotte Châteauneuf Domaine Barville has been given its own entry, with wines tasted back to 1999, while their domaine of Château de Bord at Laudun, and their partnership Domaine Grosset at Cairanne have also been entered, along with Domaine de la Renjarde at Massif d`Uchaux (Nerthe connections there). Also, Domaine de Givaudan on the west bank Côtes du Rhône.
August 2009: most of the 2007 Northern Rhône vintage report has been completed - see the sidebar 2007 Northern Rhône. Domaines added at Châteauneuf-du-Pape include Juliette Avril, Roger Sabon, Moulin-Tacussel, Lou Fréjau, de l`Harmas, Panisse, Jean Royer, Vieux Lazaret and a handful of fairly recent start-ups - La Ferme du Mont, Bouvachon-Nominé, Le Pointu. At the Massif d`Uchaux, the interesting Château d`Hugues, run by the exotic character Bernard Pradier, is also included, as is Domaine de l`Arnesque at Côtes du Rhône Villages. In the Côtes du Rhône category, the interesting, organic Domaine Rouge-Bleu (USA connections through M.Espinasse`s wife Kristin), the merchant Patrick Lesec, who has many selections across the Rhône, Denis Tardieu - small domaine, also a Paris resident, and Château Saint-Jean, of Christian Meffre (Château Raspail, Gigondas), where good Plan de Dieu is also being made.
July 2009: recently posted: many 2007 Northern Rhône reds from Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, as a prelude to the full 2007 vintage report on that region. One or two brand new domaines have come with that, notably Domaine des Pierres Sèches at Saint-Joseph and Domaine de Chasselvin at Crozes-Hermitage. Also Puyméras in the hills of the Southern Rhône near Nyons, the sound Co-operative and the also pretty decent Domaine Faucon Doré. Puyméras was one of the 4 new Villages recently promoted to that status, but suffers from a lack of profile - there isn`t much wine. The Co-operative only works about 130 hectares, and there is just a handful of small domaines whose main focus is on Côtes-du-Rhône, which can be produced in higher volume per hectare. They are good country wines, which I recommend notably to anyone holidaying in this area. Also added have been Florent & Damien Burle (STGT) and the very good Domaine Saint-Gayan at Gigondas, Domaine Les Grands Bois at Cairanne, several domaines at Costières de Nimes, Domaine des Banquettes and Grand Nicolet at Rasteau, Château de Domazan at Signargues on the right bank, the Gard département west of Avignon, and Martinelle at Ventoux. The 2006s and 2007s of leading domaines at Vinsobres were tasted in the spring, and comments on these have been posted. Report on 2007 Northern Rhône to follow.
PAUL AVRIL, 1937-2009
Châteauneuf-du-Pape lost one of its best, most elegant ambassadors and promoters of quality in mid-June 2009. Paul Avril, owner of the excellent Clos des Papes, had struggled with cancer for some time. Paul took over from his father Régis in 1963, and guided the domaine towards its current status as a top-class source of genuine Southern Rhône wines.
Clos des Papes has always remained faithful to the practice of making just one wine - no super-cuvées for them. In 1973, Paul told me: "The Popes used to receive their taxes in kind from the local vignerons, and so installed one giant cuve into which went all the different wine. They were always delighted to find that the assembled wine from this cuve was of a consistently high standard."
Paul was always a man ready to offer his time and abilities for the good of Châteauneuf. He was President of the Syndicat des Vignerons in the early 1970s, and told me then that one of his great struggles was to get more of the wine bottled within the appellation. For those of tender years reading this, it may come as a surprise to know that one of the great names for trafficked wine in the 1960s and 1970s was Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Only 20% of the wine was then bottled locally, with merchants from all over the world mixing nefarious hybrid wines in with it. It sold on its name alone, and yet "real" Châteauneuf was known to only a few lucky people well connected with dedicated importers - Frank Schoonmaker in the USA, Berry Brothers in England, for instance. Paul compared the situation to that of Alsace, and must have been very content to have witnessed the rise to genuine international prominence of his and his colleagues` wines.
In his later years, Paul was often on and off a train to Paris to put the view of the Rhône and to be present at INAO meetings. He could rest happy in the knowledge that his son Vincent had taken over the reins of the estate with confidence, and by the early 2000s had moved Clos des Papes on to a footing that received widespread international acclaim. The cellar was expanded, while the roof of Vincent`s flat fell in, something that buried a lot of white wine, but not Vincent.
Paul was a man of great charm, not the exciteable southern farmer - and therefore made many friends around the world, taking his confidence and sense of purpose with him. Like his wines, he was a man of finesse, and will be much missed in the local community, and among his many friends all over the world. As one of the oldest families at Châteauneuf-du-Pape - the Avrils were the village`s first consuls and treasurers between 1756 and 1790, and their house stands beside the fountain of the village - it is good to know that Paul-Vincent Avril has been handed a bright torch from his illustrious father. Salut, Paul - I drink to you.
JEAN HUGEL, 1924-2009
One of my favourite London tastings used to be in the days when Hugel and Paul Jaboulet Ainé shared the platform. This would be an opportunity to observe and enjoy Gérard Jaboulet and Jean Hugel at work - one might even say, at play. They were peas of the same pod, very precisely. Both exuded charm and a lively flair, both were compellingly enthusiastic about their wines and their regions, both were notable Ambassadors for Alsace and the Rhône. Jean, or Johnny as he was always called, had the harder task: he was born when Alsace had just returned to being French after the First World War - and then witnessed the invasion, and conscription of thousands of young Alsatian men by the Germans sixteen years later.
His escapades in the Second World War were many and varied, but throughout his life he retained a sense of drive and an energy that would have shamed many younger people. I first met him in the cold of a January day in 1974 when looking for an Alsace Maison that could export its wines for my old friend and then employer Melvyn Master to the USA. There were maybe half a dozen houses then working with the States - think about that - hardly any Alsace shipped to that now vast market. Dopff & Irion, Hugel, Pierre Sparr, Trimbach - and few others. Johnny Hugel was ready to give suggestions, to point me towards lesser-known houses, to encourager. His welcome was exemplary, incredibly open and generous - and was long remembered by me from that time in my callow youth.
His passing has greatly saddened the wine community, which he united with his tireless good humour. My own title - the man who made Alsace - fits him well. Our thoughts and condolences are with his family.
RECENT ADDITIONS
June 2009: Domaines from Costières de Nimes have been posted. Costières is far and away the most interesting of the four satellite appellations attached to the Rhône, with a terroir south-west of Avignon capable of producing excellent whites (often Roussanne-inspired) and genuine, punchy reds. The roster is topped up by excellent rosés - really drinkable quaffers - from domaines such as Mourgues du Grès. The occasional small Côtes du Rhône domaine has also been added; these can reflect the trend of young people wanting to exit the local Co-operative, build their own cellar, and make their own wine from trap to line. Hats off to them - they give the region renewed energy and inspiration more often than not. See the appellation tab Rasteau for the Domaine des Banquettes, for instance.
A review of 25 2008 Tavels and a handful of 2008 Lirac rosés has also been posted. Go to Recent Tastings, and double click on the L-H tab marked Tavel 2007 & 2008. A trio of Lirac domaines likewise appear - the fruit-friendly Domaine Brice Beaumont, the Château Correnson - good rosés - and the accomplished Domaine du Joncier of the artistic Marine Roussel. A somewhat belated but full report on 2006 Northern Rhône has also been posted. See the left hand tab, log in, and click on Leading Wines. Many growers` quotes are included, some of them "in running", as the vintage has developed out of its nappy stage towards post-bottling.
May 2009: Recent additions to the Northern Rhône feature a wide range of small domaines - the heart of the region. From Condrieu - the improving Domaine Niero, also Facchin and Pichon, both accomplished. From Côte-Rôtie - the Domaine Barge, with son Julien very active now, Bernard Burgaud, the wonderful Domaine Jamet, Domaine Patrick Jasmin, Domaine Michel & Stéphane Ogier (powering ahead), Domaine Daniel, Roland & Gisèle Vernay, Domaine de Rosiers of Louis Drevon and the traditional Bernard Levet. From Crozes-Hermitage - Laurent Habrard, Fayolle Fils & Fille (accomplished), Gripa (excellent), Gilles Robin, Yann Chave. From Saint-Joseph, Domaine Vallet (improving), Domaine Jérome & Pierre Coursodon, Domaine de la Côte Saint-Epine (improving at last), Etienne Becheras, Emmanuel Barou (organic), Domaine du Chêne, Domaine Grangier (a new domaine), Jean-Claude Marsanne (traditional), Domaine du Monteillet (modern, zappy wines). From Cornas, the great Domaine Clape of Auguste and Pierre, Franck Balthazar, the talented Jérome Despesse, Dumien-Serrette, Alain Voge`s now bottled 2006s, Matthieu Barret of Domaine du Coulet and the young Mickael Bourg. From Hermitage (and Saint-Joseph) the classic STGT exponent Bernard Faurie.
AWARD GIVEN IN THE RHÔNE
At 09.12 on the morning of Thursday 19 March, 2009, I received a tap on the shoulder in the historical surroundings of the Salle de la Grande Audience in the Palais des Papes, Avignon. It was Richard Jaume, from the Domaine Jaume in Vinsobres. I was about to embark on a tasting of many of the domaines of Vinsobres in the imposing underground surroundings of the Papal Palace - fitting, since this March marked the 700th anniversary of the Popes` arrival in Avignon, when the seat of the Papacy shifted to Avignon.
"Could we have a drink together at about 5.30 pm?" he asked me. It would be towards the end of a hard day`s tasting: I said, "yes, indeed, fine," without hesitation - "where?". "Here", he replied. Hmm, I thought - there might be more to this than meets the eye. The day flew by, and I ended up in the far tasting salon beyond the big Place of the Palais des Papes, tasting Mathieu Dumarcher and Elodie Baume`s good wines - two young producteurs of note. Pretty convivial, the whole thing. I looked at my watch - it was 5.45 pm. Oh my goodness.
I hastened back to the Palais, worked my way past the week`s star security guard - a man of few words but many a grunt and doubt about human provenance - and rushed down into the Salle. The Jaumes were showing their wines to visitors - life was continuing on its steady way. So I sloped off to see Jean-Pierre Meffre of Domaine St Gayan at Gigondas, only to be smartly hauled back by Richard to a gathering, indeed a circle of rather a lot of people, old, medium and very young.
Suddenly Richard gives a little speech about me - what ees ziss? I shake hands with a French lady and with a little girl, and receive what I then discover to be the Prix Albert Golay 2009 from Vinsobres. There are photographs, applause, and then drinks. I hold a piece of olive wood, old olive wood, that has been sculpted for the Prize. There are grapes lightly cast into the wood, and it weighs quite a lot. The lady is the widow of Albert Golay, the girl his granddaughter, and I learn that I am the first non-French citizen to win this award, now in its ninth year, for writing about and helping the wines of Vinsobres become better known. What an honour.
The Jaumes have a happy tale to tail, by the way. I visited their domaine in 1974, when the father Claude and his wife Nicole were getting it started. My first book recounted: "The private domaines at Vinsobres number about half a dozen, and one of the best belongs to M. Claude Jaume, an ambitious young man who is working hard to increase the size of the vineyard: this now covers 50 acres. In former times the Jaume family also owned several olive groves, but the severe weather of 1956 unfortunately killed off many of the olive trees. M. Jaume`s wine is rich and strongly-coloured; a wine of good balance and long finish, it can live for up to eight years, but should be carefully drunk: its alcohol degree can rise as high as 14, this resulting from the abnormally temperate climate of the whole Eygues Valley."
In those days, there was no Syndicat of Information, no signposts to the domaines, no list of producers - nothing. One of my favourite tactics was to be in the Post Office of a wine village a bit before midday when people would drift in on the lookout for an aperitif companion. I would ask in a loud voice if anyone knew a vigneron who actually sold some of his wine in bottle, and occasionally someone would sidle forward. Usually this was a passport to a ferocious dog encounter, but there were moments of striking lucky. Thus my first book, The Wines of the Rhône, published by Faber & Faber, became a quasi-guide for European wine importers. Many a dog-eared copy of this 220-page book, only published in hardback, was taken round the vineyards. Here in Britain, the Wine Society wine finder, Sebastian Payne, made sure he visited Domaine Jaume next time he was in the Rhône, and as a result, their wines have been imported to Britain for the last 30 years. Tout le monde est content.
The sequel is that I packed the award with great dexterity in my suitcase, avoided excess weight charging from Easyjet, and brought it home in one piece. The olive wood of Nyons sits resplendently there now. It can be viewed under the JL-L profile left hand tag here on the site.
2009 SPRINGTIME IN THE RHÔNE
A dazzling array of blossoms surrounded visitors to the Rhône in mid-March, great in their colourful abundance. To my untutored eye, they seemed more copious than usual, which may be thanks to the large amount of winter rain. This has established water levels back to balance, for the first time in seven years or so. There is talk among the oldtimers - "les anciens" - in the Valley that 2009 is going to be a very hot year, something I have also heard from similar muses here in Britain. If that is the case, and the water reserves are high, then 2009 starts promisingly. I have a hopeful hunch about this vintage, I must say.
By the fourth week of March, the Viognier vines in the Northern Rhône had started to weep, while a chat with Philippe Bravay of Domaine de Ferrand at Châteauneuf-du-Pape was revealing. Having clambered off his tractor after working his soils, he voiced his concern that there could be spring frosts this year: "there is a lot of snow still on the Alps, and even the tops of the Ardèche hills have snow that I can see from here. If we were to have a cool, clear night with a full moon, for instance, and no wind, we could have an April frost. I know I shouldn`t worry, but there it is. Our young vines have started to wake up, but the older vines haven`t moved yet," he added.
RECENT ADDITIONS
April 2009: Recent additions to the Northern Rhône feature three new domaines of good quality each one: the saucily-named SCEA La Tache at Saint-Joseph, Christophe Curtat at Saint-Joseph - both in the prime southern zone of that straggling appellation - and at Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Saint Clair, of Denis Basset. Please also keep checking the STGT and w.o.w. categories as tasting notes on 2007 are being fed in. Notice that Crozes 2007 from good domaines looks like delivering really friendly fruit, classic for w.o.w. However, there are a lot of got-up wines as well from Crozes. Look up the Domaine des Lises at Crozes-Hermitage as well - Big Max, the son of Alain and Elisabeth Graillot, is doing very well there, including being fascinated by Cornas, and check out the rock solid qualities of the Domaine Durand at Saint-Joseph (and Cornas), and the Domaine Belle at Crozes-Hermitage (and Hermitage).
Northern Rhône entries from Chapoutier and their offshoot Ferraton (both under Hermitage appellation), Marc Sorrel from Hermitage, and Alain Graillot at Crozes-Hermitage, with a look at his 2008s. 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Papes from Château Cabrières, Clos Saint-Jean, Château Maucoil, Château Mont-Redon (inc their Lirac), Domaine Pierre André, Domaine de Ferrand, Vignobles Mayard, Domaine de la Millière, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Mas de Boislauzon, with the Domaine de Villeneuve and at Vacqueyras, the Château des Tours piloted by Emmanuel Reynaud of Château Rayas entered up, and a good 2007 Villages from Domaine de Saint-Siffrein at Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
There is also a brand new venture involving Michel Chapoutier in the form of Pierre-Henri Morel, one of his lieutenants at Tain, who in June 20008 bought the old Domaine Jean Marchand at Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
For lovers of STGT wines, see the now entered up Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, also from there the Domaine Lou Devet and Clos Saint Michel. At Gigondas, the Domaines Santa Duc and La Roubine have hit the airwaves.
From the talked about 2007 vintage at Châteauneuf-du-Pape a set of leading domaines have been entered for their reds and whites: most recently, Domaine La Barroche, Bois de Boursan, du Caillou, Les Clefs d`Or, Girard de Boucou, Pegau, Porte Rouge, Saint Paul (part of Grand Tinel), 3 Cellier (half of the old Saint-Benoit), along with La Bastide Saint-Dominique, Berthet-Rayne, Cristia, Fontavin, Mathieu, Mereuille, Pères de l`Eglise, Puy Rolland, La Fagotière, Olivier Hillaire, Nalys plus Mordorée and Lafond Roc-Epine from Tavel, along with Châteaux Fines Roches, Font du Loup, Jas de Bressy (owned by Fines Roches), Mont Thabor, Vaudieu, the Clos du Mont-Olivet, Domaines La Boutinière, Chante Cigale, Chante-Perdrix, de la Côte de l'Ange, Giraud, Grand Tinel, Marcoux, Pierre Usseglio, Vieux Télégraphe.
Previously Châteaux Beaucastel, Fortia, Gardine, La Nerthe, Rayas, Domaines Beaurenard, Bosquet des Papes, Charbonnière, Janasse, Raymond Usseglio, Les Cailloux, Clos des Brusquières, Clos des Papes, Cuvée du Vatican, Eddie Feraud, Le Vieux Donjon. Fairly priced domaines in the form of Domaine de la Guicharde at Massif d`Uchaux, Domaine de Lucéna at Visan and Domaine des Pasquiers at Sablet are also worth a view.
Please see Best Value Wines for a tremendous value white Laudun 2007 from Marks and Spencer in England, on sale at £4.49. Scroll down to the Southern Rhône section there. The season of sales in wine is upon us in a big way, and I must emphasize that these discounted wines have all been purchased at Euro rates between 20% and 30% more favourable than they are now for British importers. There could be some very severe price rises from mid-2009 onwards as new stock arrives. so now is the time to find a corner of your home for some bottles to get you through the year.
LAY & WHEELER (GB) BOUGHT BY MAJESTIC WINES
Lay & Wheeler, based in Colchester (a good spot for oysters), Essex, in the south-east of England, were one of the leading family importing firms when I started in wine in the 1970s. The Wheeler family were active and visible, and their wines were carefully selected, with small domaines of character present. Their Rhône exposure was above average, with Clos des Papes and Beaucastel on the roster back in those days. Gradually, however, they lost that sense of focus and became just another rather "international" company, and the sense of their sniffing out interesting producers declined. They opened a large cellar facility in the Midlands, and informed me that for rather a lot of money I could view my stock of a few cases on line 24/7. Exit my wine from their care, with my friend and colleague Jancis Robinson taking them to task on her website. Well, there you go.
Majestic are the mainly southern England, stock market-listed company that took over a lot of empty cinemas in their early days, to allow display of the boxes and also car parking. They were active traders in one-off lots of wine including excess stocks of Bordeaux from the Swedish monopoly that they cleverly re-imported. Purchases from them are strictly by the case, not the bottle. From Châteauneuf-du-Pape, they import a very good, traditional wine in the form of Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils, a large part in magnums.
MONDAY 6 APRIL, 2009 - RHÔNE DINNER AT LE CAFÉ ANGLAIS, LONDON
I will be singing away about the Rhône, with wines, some of them nicely mature, from Vine Trail. Northern and Southern Rhône will be presented. The Café Anglais is Rowley Leigh's fun, quality restaurant in West London - maybe I should be uppity and call it Notting Hill. Rowley has the cookery, recipe column in Saturday`s Financial Times, and is someone I have known for a little while now. He has shown perspicacity in writing about traditional dishes, less high profile cuts of meat and other squeeze-friendly options recently in the Pink`Un. He is also a Rhône lover de fondation, no recent jumping on its 2007 bandwagon. Donc, he knows what dishes to present. You have been warned. The cost is £70 a head.
A bientôt.
8 PORCHESTER GARDENS, LONDON W2 4DB, +44(0)207 221 1415 info@lecafeanglais.co.uk
Page link on the dinner http://www.lecafeanglais.co.uk/newsletter.asp ?
RECENT ADDITIONS
Added so far in January 2009 have been the tasting notes of my December 2008 visit to Paul Jaboulet Ainé. My recent article in the Decanter Magazine of February 2009 took around 9 months to write, since I was so vexed by the style of the wines emerging from the new management regime. I regard Jaboulet, the icon of my youth in the Rhône, as vital to the region`s heritage and well-being. Thus wines that do not come close to local expression are of great concern for the Rhône`s identity. Comments on the domaine wines can be found in the Paul Jaboulet slot under the Hermitage appellation heading.
From November 2008 visits, Domaine de Montvac, Vacqueyras; Domaine Jean David, Séguret. Both interesting domaines, the latter STGT, organic wines. 2007s assessed at Château de Beaucastel, a visit to Domaine Pontifical at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and at Cornas, Vincent Paris` first vintage of La Geynale, the 2007 (I am in the group owning that vineyard) and his other young wines, and a tasting with Jacques Leminicier of his Cornas and Saint-Péray 2007 and 2006. Dec 2008 visits to Guigal, Vidal-Fleury and René Rostaing at Côte-Rôtie, André Perret and Domaine Georges Vernay at Condrieu and Saint-Joseph have also been logged, as have June 2008 visits to Domaine La Fourmente and Domaine L`Orbieu at Visan.
HENRI BRUNIER, DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE
The owner of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Henri Brunier, died in his sleep on the night of 26 October, 2008. A man possessed of a most winning smile and a natural charm, Henri was the epitomy of the southern countryman, his unflustered walk and way with words a superb antidote to the usually ruffled state of this visitor who would often be struggling to arrive on time.
Under the charm, there existed plenty of steel as Henri worked to improve his wine and enlarge the estate. He also had to contend with a family fall-out - between his father and his uncle - so that there was anything but a straightforward family succession at this domaine. It is little known that Château Rayas was able to use the Vieux Télégraphe name and exploit 4 hectares of its vineyards from around 1930 to 1940, and the deal was actually only ended when the 15 year-old Henri "bumped into" his uncle on the main avenue in Avignon, and sorted it out, man to man.
In my first Rhône book, written in the mid-1970s, Vieux Télégraphe was a 38 hectare property whose wine was "always splendidly full-bodied and well-balanced." Today there are 70 hectares, and it is one of the top names, its wines eagerly appreciated around the world.
I have a couple of stories in mind with Henri. One is the utter pleasure of sitting in his modest kitchen eating scrambled eggs diced with black truffles, that delicious plate encouragé by his 1962 white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a wine of the most abundant, enveloping richness. This was probably in the mid-1990s, when the wine was over 30 years` old, and still dispensing a fantastic swirl of aroma and a profound heart of southern bounty. A magic moment.
The other is seeing his dog feeding technique as his legs became more wonky after he had ceased being active on the domaine. He would place the bowl of dog food on the top of his Renault, sit inside it, release the handbrake, and let it roll gently down to the dog kennel. Voilà! Then, a gentle reverse back to the other end of the courtyard, the job finished. Grins all round if caught out doing this by the likes of me!
His boys have done extremely well, and I am sure that Henri knew full well that Frédéric and Daniel had taken up his baton with relish and commitment. His pride was, I am sure, intense - not that this proud man would ever have made a big song and dance about that.
As a leading member of the community of the village of Bédarrides, Henri will be sorely missed by thousands of people who may not all have worked in the wine trade. His cousins are the Gonnets of Domaine de Font-de-Michelle, and to all his friends and family, I send the most sincere condolences, echoed I am sure by all readers on this site.
ANTHONY PERRIN, CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX
The owner of Château Carbonnieux in the Graves region of Bordeaux, Anthony Perrin, died in late September, 2008. Carbonnieux, with Domaine de Chevalier, was one of the Graves that I was weaned on when starting in wine in the early 1970s. Both properties also made splendid white wines, which was part of their attraction. Monsieur Perrin built up his property from 1956 onwards, when, like much of Bordeaux, it was in disrepair and heavily underinvested.
I shared a bottle of the Carbonnieux red 1996 with my very old friend Steven Spurrier after hearing this news. It was a perfect example of an STGT wine, offering a magical simplicity. Here are Steven`s notes: "very young colour fresh and deep, wild roses and a hint of tobacco leaf on the nose, good fruit with all the purity of the northern Graves, a lovely classic wine made in the non-flamboyant style that is getting more and more rare, still a little young but became richer and more gamey as it breathed." We agreed that it had maybe another 8 years to run; its finish was delightfully fresh. Steven added these words about Anthony Perrin:
"The 1996 Carbonnieux red was opened in honour of Anthony Perrin, whose death this week was a great shock. Anthony was one of the most charming and most "hands on" of Bordeaux Châteaux owners and seemed to be as happy in promoting the Pessac-Léognan appellation and Bordeaux in general as promoting his own estate. The wines were as elegant as he was, and priced as modestly as his gentlemanly demeanour."
DIDIER DAGUENEAU
A true Original, Didier Dagueneau died in a microlight accident in the Bergerac region at the age of 52 in mid-September 2008. His Pouilly Fumé Silex was an arresting wine, with a pedigree that Sauvignon Blanc has rarely attained elsewhere. Stroppy and evangelical about "the cause", his loss is severe, with I am sure many future ideas and stimulations to be presented to the world.
Thus it has been a sad fortnight, as Perrin and Dagueneau were both the sort of men whose work, while wrapped in a pleasure packet, served the interests and intellects of genuine winelovers and questors around the world.
"ENOUGH", SAYS MICHEL CHAPOUTIER, "GET MY CAPITAL OUT OF HERE"
In response to the continuing French government clampdown on the wine industry, with prohibition on any Internet mention or promotion of wine (ie a good mention = promotion), Michel Chapoutier of Maison Chapoutier in Tain l`Hermitage, Northern Rhône, issued the following statement on Saturday 20 September, 2008:
"Given the anti wine policy of those who govern us (take advertising on the Internet as an example), we are deciding to re-orient an important part of our future French investments towards countries outside France. That is why we are therefore stopping our researches in Beaujolais to head our capital towards Portugal, and also some declarations of intent to invest in the Languedoc Roussillon will be diverted to Australia and California."
Some other fruity comments attached themselves to modern dictatorships, but we needn`t concern ourselves with those from the always voluble Michel. His view reflects what many growers tell me in private - that when received in the USA, for instance, or generally outside France, they no longer feel as if they are criminals. Truly, the French government is building up problems around a lost generation of wine drinkers, since much of the youthful drunkenness does not involve wine. Yet wine bottles are shown when binge drinking is portrayed (much as is done by the BBC in Britain), while the culprits are most commonly alco-pops, spirits and beers.
As a good friend, I have often discussed such matters with Michel, and "il faut dénoncer" (one must denounce or expose) is exactly what he has done with this statement.
DOMAINE des TOURELLES, GIGONDAS
The sale was announced in early September 2008 of the Gigondas Domaine des Tourelles to the Perrin family, owners of the Château de Beaucastel at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Roger Cuillerat, owner of Tourelles, stated that while the talks had been in the air for around three years, they accelerated just before the harvest time of 2008. His son Léo is only 8 years` old, and Roger is nearly 54, but has had arm and back injuries after starting work at 14 years` old. "There`s too much paperwork, Léo is too young to know whether he will want to continue with the domaine, and we are looking to build a house away from these cellars," commented Roger.
The Perrins acquire 7 of the domaine`s 9 hectares, with Roger holding on to his 2-hectare rented plot of veteran vines, Le Mazel, just below the village ramparts. He will sell its wine to the Perrins. The Perrin family will take over his bottle stock of 2006 and 2007, and the 2008 will be jointly vinified. "They want to make the same style of wine as I did," reported Roger.
Roger has always liked la chasse - woodcock is his favourite bird - and will be freer to do that after this harvest. However, there has to be sadness with his retirement: this is an STGT domaine, with a genuine viticulteur at its helm, a man whose culture is wine and not agriculture or marketing. These have been personal wines, the sort that all real drinkers and enthusiasts - not collectors or posers - appreciate and investigate with great pleasure and respect. Some similarities exist with the retirement (after a sale to Guigal) of Jean-Louis Grippat in the Northern Rhône in 2001.
On the positive side, the purchasers are a known quantity and respecters of high quality wines. They are also quite local, and follow the path of the Brunier family at Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe who acquired the revered Gigondas Domaines Les Pallières with their American importer, my friend Kermit Lynch, a few years ago.
RENÉ AUBERT, DOMAINE DE LA PRÉSIDENTE, CAIRANNE
The death was announced in August 2008 of René Aubert, owner of the Domaine de la Présidente at Cairanne. He had suffered from cancer. A vigorous, robust man in his mid-forties, René had moved the domaine along the quality path, and was also an explorer, with late harvested Viognier Un dimanche à Octobre en famille in his repertoire as far back as the late 1990s. His father Max had been a notable promoter of Cairanne and involved in Rhône Valley wine administration and public affairs. René`s liking was for big, bold wines. Domaine de la Présidente also owns vineyards at Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2 SEPTEMBER 2008
NORTHERN RHÔNE - 2008 so far
CÔTE-RÔTIE: "August has not been too bad," reports Gilbert Clusel of the excellent Domaine Clusel-Roch, a benchmark STGT estate. "The vintage is later than previous years - 10 days behind them. We are looking for a harvest date of around 20-25 September this year." There were two rainfalls of note - about 35 mm (1.4 inches) at the start of the month, and the same in mid-month. Fresh nights and warm days have permitted ripening to make progress, with temperatures around 30°C (86°F) on 27-28 August. "The vineyards are very irregular in their state this year," comments Gilbert, echoing comments from the Southern Rhône. "The better the care, the better things have turned out, since first there was coulure (poor fruit formation after flowering), then mildew, then oïdium." Mildew has still been around the vines later than usual - into early August indeed. Yields will not be abundant.
CONDRIEU: The Viognier is about 8 to 10 days behind 2007 in its ripening. Acidity levels are good for now.
CORNAS: August evolved quietly, according to Vincent Paris, without great worries about bad weather. "We are 10 days behind a vintage such as 2007, and will be harvesting around 22-23 September this year." There was rain in August, but nothing very heavy, and no hail, even though there were some storms. "The biggest lack in 2008 has been the heat, including in August, so I expect light and supple tannins this year." There has not been a really stable run of fine weather, with 2-3 day spells of heat then broken up by rain or cloud. "We have never gone above 35°C (95°F) - the hottest days have been 30°C plus (86°F plus)." There has been oïdium, for instance on Chaillot at the northern end of the appellation, but less mildew than say at Crozes or at Saint-Joseph. Quantity is very variable across the vineyards, with no real pattern attached to it.
SOUTHERN RHÔNE - 2008 so far
2 SEPTEMBER 2008
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE: rainfall for August has been as follows: 11-12 August 30 mm (1.2 inches) and 4 mm (0.16 inch); 20 August 2 mm; 23 August 4 mm; 31 August 18 mm (0.72 inch). Then, wham! 80 mm (3.2 inches) on the night of 3 September. The vintage is sorting out the optimists from the more cautious. In the optimist camp (Sept 2) is Frédéric Brunier of the top-notch Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe: "it is very beau now, we are a week to 10 days behind 2007. The laboratory says that our tannin ripeness is at a very good level vis-à-vis the sugars; we have Syrah at 13-13.5° now, and our Grenache blanc at 13.5° to 14°. I expect to pick the Roussanne and the Grenache blanc from 8 September. We do need good weather, though, since we are seeing hints of rot on the Grenache blanc, for instance, and this weekend 6-7 September there is talk of some weather upsets." Yields are irregular, with inconsistent ripening levels across the vineyard, especially in the Grenache noir. Colours are expected to be good.Sophie Armenier of the excellent Domaine de Marcoux takes a more cautious line (Sept 2): "we still have rain forecast over the next week, and we are not yet near a mature state. Some plots have firm Grenache grapes that are well aereated, others have softer bunches - it varies. Across Châteauneuf we are talking about 12.5° ripeness today - not more. We have Syrah at 12.8°, for instance and Mourvèdre at 11°, so are looking at not starting until 15 September, for instance. I would prefer to be further forward in our ripening, and am more anxious than I was in 2007." Sophie reports a few signs of rot on her Roussanne, and that the Syrah is a little more fragile than the Grenache.
GIGONDAS & VACQUEYRAS: Roger Cuillerat of Domaine des Tourelles in the village of Gigondas, a good address with STGT leanings, is relaxed. "Fine weather in August, a storm with some rain that was well-timed in the middle of the month - twice 30 mm (1.2 inches) - and we are heading for a harvest date of end September, one like before the great heat of 2003" he says. All the varieties including the Syrah are doing well. A helpful factor has been the very hot days - 30-33°C (86-91°F) - followed by fresh nights."The first half of August was average, but the second half very hot," adds Dominique Ay of the excellent Domaine Raspail-Ay. There was a big storm of about 40 mm (1.6 inches) around 12 August, which lasted about 2 or 3 hours and contained no hail - that kept the freshness in the soil. "I estimate that wer are running about 3 weeks behind 2007, and judging from my latest analysis of the crop so far, we have a similar state of maturity to 2004. The Grenache needs more ripening - we are heading for 20-25 September for that." There was rain on the night of Sunday 31 August, but only 4 mm at Gigondas, while more fell at Vaison-la-Romaine and around Cairanne and Rasteau. The degree is lower than 2007. Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise are in a similar position to Gigondas, comments Monsieur Ay.
At Vacqueyras, Guy Ricard of the STGT Domaine de Couroulu (The Domaine of the Curlew) says "2008 is very, very good for now. I may strat to pick my whites such as the Viognier and Roussanne around 15 September, while the Grenache needs another 10 days after that. We have not experienced coulure (flower into fruit failure), but have had mildew here and there, more on leaves than bunches. My yield will be about normal for the domaine - around 25-30 hl/ha." There has not been a blockage in the ripening this year - it has not been very hot by day and the nights have been fresh, while the second half of August was magnificent. Monsieur Ricard reports his Syrah at around 12° now.
LIRAC: "I have had luck on the mildew which has been among us," comments Marine Roussel of the good Domaine du Joncier (the 2006 classic red is now on sale at Waitrose supermarkets in England, which is good news en passant). "It helps to have been organic, I feel, and the timing of my treatments also worked out. I am crossing my fingers - hard - and hope that I can head for a 11 September harvest date, provided the weather stays as it is now - very hot days and fresh nights." Yields are a bit down on 2007. The mildew has struck where vineyards have low wind exposure or are in damp soil, or low down, whereas those on open plateaus have fared better, with the Mistral able to clean them up.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE: "Tricky moments for the northern Vaucluse and the Gard département (the west bank of the Rhône as it flows south). There has been hail around Valréas and Nyons in the Enclave des Papes area and the southern Drôme, and higher rainfall at Rasteau than on the Plan de Dieu just south. "We have had a lot of rain throughout the summer," reports Elodie Balme, a promising young vigneronne from Rasteau."We are ripening 2 weeks behind, heading for harvesting around 18-20 September - as my vineyard is small, I can be very exact with my chosen date." The weather from around 5-15 August was cool or even cold - 10°C (50°F) in the morning, with cold nights that served to block the ripening. Then there was 100 mm (4 icnhes) of rain in 2 days in mid-August (a lot more than at Gigondas or Châteauneuf), and another 25 mm (1 inch) on 31 August. The vines' vegetation is still growing as a result, not where its energies should be directed. Mildew and then oïdium that started after the first week of August have been problematic. "We need stable weather now, and I cannot see 2008 as being up to the standard of 2007," concludes Elodie.
The troubles of the Gard département were chronicled last month. Rainfall and mildew have been the bugbears of growers on this side of the Rhône. Lirac reflects this to some extent.
PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ REVIEW
The 2005 and 2006 vintages were reviewed in London at their new agent, Liberty Wines, in May, 2008. Please log in to see the various comments on the Paul Jaboulet Aîné domaine pages.
31 JULY-1 AUGUST 2008
NORTHERN RHÔNE - 2008 so far
CÔTE-RÔTIE: 6 weeks of mildew has meant a lot of work for the growers, with oïdium now a problem. The crop will be small, since the flowering was limited. Like most of the northern Rhône, there has so far been no hail at Côte-Rôtie. "It is hot now - 28°C, and the last 2 weeks have been around 20-28°C," reports Brigitte Roch of Domaine Clusel-Roch. "We are heading for a normal date of harvest, say 25-28 September. There was hail at Chavanay and Malleval at the end of June, affecting Condrieu and Saint-Joseph."
CROZES-HERMITAGE: growers have had to contend with mildew this year, as well as oïdium and coulure, or failed fruit formation after flowering. The flowering was late, and lasted over 3 weeks, a process that brought grapes of unequal ripening. "It is going to be a late year," comments Alain Graillot of Domaine Graillot, who also notes that at Larnage in the northern sector, there has been some insect, the cicadelle, problem. The veraison is just starting now, which is in line with many years: "a precocious veraison would be 25 July, and a late one 10 August," says Monsieur Graillot.
HERMITAGE: the heat came after 14 July - with rain and cool weather before then. "It is now stable, and if August is a good month, then we can have hopes," observes Bernard Faurie, known to be something of a worrier. "It could go quickly from now on - things have moved slowly so far, and we have had only a bit of mildew and oïdium. There has been some coulure (flowers failing to convert into grapes)." Monsieur Faurie reports that the vineyard state is more irregular at Saint-Joseph, referring to the southern sector of that appellation, notably Mauves and Tournon.
SOUTHERN RHÔNE - 2008 so far
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE: mildew and coulure are words on growers` lips. May, June and early July were all tricky with cool, damp weather. By mid-July, the weather changed, became drier and the Mistral has blown from time to time. "We were very scared in early July, with the word "catastrophe" in mind, " comments Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes; "one of the big challenges has been the uneven number of bunches on the vines - some have 3, others have 10. We have cut back to 6 per bunch to try to normalise that. The earliest picking dates for us will be 10-15 September, and it won`t be a big crop. At least the vines are not suffering from drought - so the veraison, when they most need humidity, should pass off OK." Vincent also adds that the last vintage with so much mildew is said to be 1961! It was 36°C on 31 July.
Laurent Charvin of Domaine Charvin expects a mid-September harvesting date. "There was a lot of mildew, but that is stable now since it is very hot. Now we need a run of good weather, and the next 2 weeks are expected to be fine. We have also been helped by cool nights, down to 15°-20°C. The veraison is just starting now."
GIGONDAS & VACQUEYRAS: 10-15 days behind recent, often precocious, years. The crop will not be big. May and June were cold and rainy, with some mildew. The veraison is just starting now - the grapes taking their colour. The high, later ripening areas are heading for harvesting in early October, with the lower areas around 20-25 September. The weather was poor until mid-July. Since then, it has been hot, with day time temperatures of 30° to 35°C (86°F to 95°F or so), but cool nights of around 20°C (68°F). "There has been coulure or fruit formation failure on the Grenache, and we have had to drop some of the Grenache bunches," reports Gilles Faravel of Domaine de la Bouïssière; "the Mourvèdre is OK. There is less coulure at Vacqueyras."
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE: the Vaucluse, left bank, département has fared better than the Gard, home to Saint-Gervais, Laudun and Chusclan. Mildew is the main culprit, with the Cèze Valley, around the town of Bagnols-sur-Cèze, particularly badly hit. Hail also struck Estézargues and Saint-Hilaire d`Ozilhan - the area east of Remoulins - in late June. "The trouble has not been vast amounts of rain, but its consistency," remarks Rémy Klein of Domaine de la Réméjeanne. "We had 250 mm (10 inches) in 2 months, which is not a lot, but 10 straight days of some rain in early June, for instance, poses a lot of problems." 2007 was a precocious year, and growers are running around 2 weeks behind that, or about 4 days behind a normal year. Most problems centre on the Grenache, with the Carignan slightly affected, but the other varieties in OK shape. A harvest date of 15 September or so beckons.
DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE WHITE HERMITAGE, 15 VINTAGES 2005-1984
Recently entered are 15 vintages of this remarkable white Hermitage. See The Big Tastings.
A FEW YOUNG GROWERS OF PROMISE AT CÔTE-RÔTIE & CONDRIEU
Recently entered are details on some of the domaines where younger growers are making their mark: Christophe Semaska, Xavier Gérard, Stéphane Pichat at Côte-Rôtie, and Domaine Mouton and Francois Merlin at Condrieu.
25 JUNE 2008, LONDON
RHÔNE LUNCH WITH SOMEONE USING MY NAME IN NOTTING HILL
The Ledbury
127 Ledbury Road
Notting Hill
London W11 2AQ
12.30 start
Tickets £50 for 3 courses inc wines, coffee or tea
+44(0)207 792 9090
manu@theledbury.com
THEME: well, indeed, the Rhône, North and South. Brett Graham, the renowned Ledbury chef, has been keen for some time to design a menu that puts on show the qualities of Condrieu and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This luncheon will be run with Vine Trail - yes, the owner of Cornas, our mighty equine champion. Sommelier Emmanuel Barnay and Nick Brookes have chosen wines with the likely line-up as follows: 2006 Saint-Péray Les Pins from Gripa and Condrieu from Christophe Pichon, 2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape red from Domaine Charvin and a singing 2004 Saint-Joseph red from Domaine Gonon, with an unusual, but good Vin Doux Naturel Grenache from Domaine du Trapadis: some definite STGT domaines in there, folks. I will be saying a few words on these wines and their growers. The Ledbury is right up there in terms of fine dining - winner of The Good Food Guide 2006 London Restaurant of the Year, and is also that relatively rare bird in Britain, the holder of a Michelin star. The contact details are for The Ledbury direct, or the e-mail of the Sommelier, Emmanuel, trading in much the same way as Mr E Petit of Arsenal once did, under the short form of Manu. See you there, I hope.
THURSDAY 17 JUNE, 2008, LONDON
WINEMAKERS TASTING OF RHÔNE WINES FROM YAPP BROTHERS
Vintners' Hall
London EC4
18.30 - 20.30
Tickets £25 per head, by e-mail or telephone
+44(0)1747 860423
http://www.yapp.co.uk/
THEME: the oldest, long-established Rhône specialist importers, Yapp Brothers here present some of their growers in person. The Rhône delegation is led by Pierre and Olivier Clape, Olivier the latest generation at this exceptional Cornas family estate. Also present will be the young generation form the excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape domaine of Le Vieux Donjon, Claire Michel. Other growers making the trip include François and Jonathan Sack from the celebrated Clos St Magdeleine at Cassis, next to Marseille, whose wines I would drink in the early 1970s when living up the road in Aix-en-Provence. Domaine Torraccia in Corsica, Château de Ligré at Chinon in the Loire and Sylvain Hoesch of the progressive Domaine Richeaume in Provence will also be in London.
THURSDAY 5 JUNE, 2008
STONE VINE & SUN LONDON SUMMER TASTING
The Fine Art Society
148 New Bond Street
London, W1S 2JT
18.00 - 20.30
Tickets £15 per head, by e-mail or telephone
+44(0)1962 712351
sales@stonevine.co.uk
THEME: a look at several regions of France, with a summer, rosé tilt, and also new wines from Washington State and Oregon, South Africa and New Zealand. 10% off any wine ordered from the tasting on the same evening. This tasting is followed by the company`s local one in their handsome home city of Winchester on FRIDAY 13 JUNE, 18.00 - 20.30 at The Guildhall, Winchester.
27-29 MAY, 2008
Asia-Pacific Vinexpo at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center in the sporting area of Wan Chai. http://www.winexpo.com/. I would actually expect this event to be more interesting than London`s equivalent.
20-22 MAY, 2008
London International Wine Fair and Distil, at ExCeL, Victoria Docks, E16 1XL, arrive via the Docklands Light Railway. London`s big three day event, that grew out of the racy liberty of the Bristol Wine Fair of the 1970s. Now it is a largely branded goods event, so that a bumbling scribbler covering 4 to 40-hectare domaines finds little of genuine relevance. A highlight from my last visit two years ago was the Brazilian girl, in national football strip, walking around this enormous show hangar playing keepy uppy with a football, the ball never touching the ground as she glided it from one foot to the other. Cosa boa, gente.
Last year, I was in Moscow, and the highlight was the text received at 11 pm Moscow time (8 pm in London), as I was finishing my home-cooked spaghetti washed down by some Chapoutier Rasteau in my client company`s apartment, from a desperate Scandinavian importer seeking a restaurant in London. Talk about forward planning. After 90 minutes of texts, including his requests to me in Mosco