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The Wines

50% Blonde area, 50% Brune area (until 2002 mainly from Blonde area), 100% Syrah, 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs more than cap punchings, aged 30% new, 70% 1-4 year oak 30 (up from 18-22 months but less new oaking) with no new oak used after 12 months, unfiltered, Réserve du Domaine name from 2003 to 2013, 10,000 b


1) (Leyat, mid-1980s Syrah, used 228-litre cask) ***(*) dark red. The nose is well rounded, red fruits, strawberry coulis, smoke. The palate has a mild, squeezy debut, with gras in similar style, plump and pliant tannins. The shape is round. It’s OK, but a bit plain . . 16-18 years 2) (Fongeant, Syrah planted by Stéphane, used 228-litre cask) **** red robe. Curved nose, shows oak and sweet raspberry, breathes a gentle ray of sunshine. The palate cosies up well, bears charming and scented red fruits, are very tasty. There’s good Fongeant attraction here; it’s generous with its juice, and the tannins have good style, fit well. “It is a silken form of the Brune, refined, close to La Blonde,” Stéphane Ogier. 19 years 3) (Côte Baudin, used 228-litre cask) **** red robe. Has a musky raspberry, very floral, rose petal (typical) aroma, liqueur style in the fruit, a serene presence. The attack comes forward well, pushes out, no delay. It’s textured and ripe, with plentiful content that straightens as it goes. It ends on a good mix of violets and lead-iron. 18 years 4) (Bertholon, lot of clay, touches Les Grandes Places, is above it, used 228-litre cask) ***(*) dark red. The nose is restrained, mixes cassis and blackberry, mocha, holds pockets of mystery. It’s deeper and darker than the previous two wines. The palate is close-knit, bears nugget red fruits with iron full on through them. Has a crisp, slightly demanding close, a square shape. Needs time – from 2021 or so. This is a blend wine, not up to being offered on its own. “Bertholon gives quite powerful wines, and good acidity,” Stéphane Ogier. 20 years 5) (Le Champon, always the last plot harvested, used 228-litre cask) **** dark red. Blackberry fruit, good freshness, a gentle show of the fruit on the nose, with herbs-vegetal influences, oak, has ways to go. This attacks well – off we go, holds close-knit gras richness, lucid red fruits; good richness, length here, with a firm couch of tannin, fresh length. 22 years 6) (La Viallière, 1986-91 Syrah, 228-litre cask) ****(*) dark red. Intense mulberry and raspberry fruit show with a classic lead pencil presence, good ying and yang, on the nose. The palate strikes out well on a note of raspberry coulis; it moves with great mineral purpose, clusters on floral and iron touches on the close. Complexity and interest here. It holds very purposeful juice, has a real steady delivery, quite thick. Part of this will go into the Village wine. From 2022. 23 years. OVERALL **** will have sound depth, a steady ensemble, low profile to start with, allow time and think about drinking from 2023-24. 2036-39 Nov 2017

2015 ()

1) (La Viallière, 1 year 228-litre cask, 20 year Syrah, 30% whole bunch) ***** a dark robe. What a beau nose – it has a magic harmony, roundness and grace of perfumed dark fruit. The palate is in the same vein, links closely. It shows rose-violet all through, the tannins are stylish. This is a beauty, has high quality, like a top Burgundy. Exceptional balance. 26 years. 2) (Montmain, 1 year 228-litre cask, 20 year Syrah, 100% whole bunch) **** dark robe. The nose has a “sparkling” air thanks to ample black cherry and raspberry with easy appeal. This is grippy, engine room wine for the blend, holds gummy tannins. It lacks the nuance of the others. The tannins have strength. 25 years 2041-43  Apr 2016

2014 ()

red robe. There is a perfumed first take on the nose, Pez sweets, violets, a subdued air of raspberry coulis, along with a sense of rosemary, dried herbs. This is a fine do on the palate – it is well juiced, holds snug tannin, presents a Burgundian style with Pinot echoes. The length is nice and steady, gives a little darkness on the finish. It is easy to drink now. There is finesse across the palate, a generous quantity in it. It contains all the 2014 Lancement and is a charming wine. 12.5°. From 2018. 2028-30 Apr 2016

2013 ()

(casks, a good example) ****(*) very dark; the nose rumbles with intent, is deep, has layers of black stone fruit aromas, coupled with black olives and oak. This bears dark, inky fruit; the tannins are ripe and in step. Some oak comes through. There is plenty of gras here to entertain. It is a free running Côte-Rôtie with good life and flesh in it. From 2019. 2033-36 2nd cask (Côte Blonde, but its fourth leaf, so very young vines) ***(*) dark robe. Has an assured, serene, lateral aroma, a raisin ripeness. The palate gives black berry fruit that runs consistently; there is some live tannin, and it ends neatly – the tannins fit it well. Good balance. 2029-31  Apr 2016 Previously Feb 2015 **** (casks) dark, shiny red robe. Mixed, varied nose – a swirl of blackberry, rosemary, game – this will be open and will set the wine en route well. The palate hits the 2013 freshness and iron mark accurately. Nordic precision and neatness of red fruit gras combine well. It finishes with nicely detailed fruit and tannins in good step together, is successfully long. Good quality, no false steps, is a balanced wine with STGT leanings. From 2018. 2030-32 GB £180/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012 ()

½ bottle: steady red robe. Has a nicely red berry fronted nose, a little sweet intensity, an image of small fruit pastilles. It stands up well in the glass. The attack is a little hidden, but there is good, genuine content led by red berries that carry lithe tannin in back. There are tasty moments. Appealing wine. Good with leg of lamb. Decant it. 13°. 2027-29 Apr 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ***(*) dark red robe, a little black present. The nose is attractive, has scope for the future; there is a bonny red meat style depth, and a lurking crushed raspberry air. The palate holds a good, live frame around the red berry fruits. The fruit is pretty clear, and there is bonny fusion with its mineral side. The length is nice and tidy. No great fanfare here, but it does a true job of showing the appellation accurately. An enjoyable glass of wine. 2021-23  Oct 2015

2011 ()

the robe is still a good red colour. The nose is very peppery, bright, provides a full ladle of cassis, with smoky bacon behind. It is rather masculine, a child of the schist. The palate mixes a savoury core with a fringe of light grain tannin. It ends with a line of sparky, rocky inspired juice, a hint of flowers and primrose on the exit. This has ways to go. 13°. 2025-27 GB £400 12/b in bond or £42.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Nov 2015

2010 ()

attractive, shiny red robe. The bouquet is well filled, smoky, presents hedgerow berries and fruits, licorice and plums. This has an aromatic frame, with really shapely wine inside, good heart and length. There is potential a-plenty. Its fruit and juice are just creeping out, and it expands from within towards the finish. The length is very good. It will hold stable for a good long time. From 2017. 13°. 2034-36 GB £420 12/b in bond or £44.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Nov 2015 Previously Dec 2011 ***** (cask, pre-asemblage of the 5 lieu-dits on the Brune area, Leyat etc) ***** dark red with black-purple tints. Bright, very bright blackberry fruit aroma with a tight licorice interior which is expressive and has a smoky clarity. The palate is tasty, engaging, off we go – a real surge of energy, delightful fruit, lots of gush and flow. There are ripe, lip-smacking tannins on the finish. A beauty, just right. 19 years. (Champon, 1991-92 Syrah) ****(*) shiny dark red robe; red fruits aroma that bears an attractive freshness and a free rein run, a flint and mint mix. Good energy on the palate – an openly fruited wine with woven, well-integrated tannins. This will be a solid base for the wine. Life of 18-21 years. From 2014-15. Dec 2011

2009 ()

(1 year oak cask, Côte Rozier, 2001-02 Syrah) *** purple, a bit of violet. Reductive but wide bouquet, persistent fruit in it. There is a firm line of red fruit, raspberry, which is good for young vines – their crop was cut back. The length is correct, and it ends on a note of aromatic red fruit jam. (3 year oak cask, Le Champon) ***(*) big, bright robe; wide and sturdy bouquet. The palate flourishes with red berry and a floral touch, shows mild tannins on the finish. “Le Champon is always more on the force, and so is very good in a year of much sun such as 2009. But in a funny way, I have my lowest pH there,” Stéphane Ogier. This could run until 2021-24. July 2010


18,000 b this year, the only Côte-Rôtie produced: red with some dark tints in it. Refined, backward bouquet – a mix of nuts and brioche, the fruit is mulberry, and it is wide. Decent matter and width across the palate – this is more full than many 2008s,a slow-burn wine that will come along. Nice licorice, a lip-smacking aftertaste. A very correct, successful 2008 that can vary as it ages and become more spicy. There is good carry in its red fruit. 2019-21 “The raising helped it to gain richness. I did very little racking, so the reduction will have helped it enrichen. In 2008 our Brune plots did better than our Blonde plots, so there is more Brune than normal in this,” Stéphane Ogier. July 2010

2007 ()

full red, plenty in it. Coffee, “thick” nose, has a lot of presence. The palate is full, but never stationary, has a warm interior. Just a bit stiff for now. The blackberry fruit is thorough. From mid-2012. Decant this. “2007 is one of my preferred years since I came – they are wines that speak, it is a major vintage here. You have the super maturity of September, but also the freshness of June and July and August that weren't very hot,” Stéphane Ogier. 2020-22. July 2010 Previously Dec 2008 *** (casks) cask 1 **(*) (65% of final wine, 3 yr 228-litre cask) bright red; there is a good inlay of red cherry fruit on the nose that is sound, compact, heading for charm. The palate has red fruit with a smooth line of approach, the fruit agreeable, direct for now. It ends on that red fruit, with a late tune of fragrant rose-hip. Frank wine. cask 2 *** (Le Champon, 2 yr 228-litre cask) “I raise this apart, on its own, because Le Champon is always structured, firm wine” good, full red robe; fruit gums, bright red fruit aroma with a firm surrounding air – likeable. The palate red fruits come with attitude – definite muscle and core. 15 year wine. 20% of this has spent 12 months in new oak before this cask. Cask 3 **** (Lancement – half stays in the classic, half goes into the Lancement “terroir de Blonde cuvée) good full red; has a curvaceous, spherical aroma – red berry or cherry, “come hither” appeal. Rounded, assured red fruits on the palate – they are sprinkled with a little spice dust. There is a lot of attractive gras at the end. This can really seduce the Champon and make a handsome couple. Pretty wine. 16 years. Dec 2008

2006 ()

(half bottle) full, quite dark red robe; has a prune, violet aroma; there is smoke from the oak, not excessively so, and ripe raspberry as well – the bouquet is bright and live. The palate is marked by rounded, rather reductive gummy fruit – black fruits that need to open and express more clarity. It is dumb for now. Has sound length, with a touch of toasting in evidence. From mid-2010. Decant for now. 2022-23 Bottled May 2008. Dec 2008 Previously June 2007 ***(*) (different casks and sites) Côte Rozier **** plum, floral aroma, quiet stuffing; tasty stone red fruit, persists well, is a finesse wine. Nice little tannic, mineral kick at the end. 15-17 year wine. Leyat ***(*) earthy, stone fruit nose that is tight. Nicely robust, has a Brune style rusticity, has hearty but good red fruit on a broad finish. Le Champon ***(*) broad, elegant nose and palate, holds classic fruit and progresses well. A wine to do well from around 2010-11. June 2007


(half bottle) full, dark red. Smoky, very compact, tight-knit nose – it mixes the tightness of the northern sector and some of the southern sector`s sun and smile – comes with violet, graphite, cordite smoke all together. The palate fruit is sturdy, not showy: this has a wide, secure nature, and ends rather “southern” – hence raisin, chocolate, oak. The nose is very young still, but more open than the palate, where there are glimpses of red fruit. From 2013 at the earliest – it can only gain with more bottle age. “This has not budged since it was bottled in Nov 2007 – it the same wine,” S.Ogier. 2025-28 Dec 2008 Previously June 2007 ****(*) (casks) cask 1: good full robe; the aroma is nutty now, but the there is good, rich red fruit in it, and overall it is generous. Woven, black fruits early on the palate, then a scented aftertaste. There is fine harmony to come – it has good fruit and tannin integration. cask 2: tight nose, knit together. Good content on the palate, this is profound. Red fruits with more evident tannins than cask 1. Shows dry touches late on, but there is plenty of gras here. From around 2010. To be bottled Nov 2007. 2024-27 June 2007


(cask) dark robe. Grilled, almost herbal bouquet, raspberry, pepper and oal also. Bold start to palate, lots of sleekly cut fruit, is tasty and roundly appealing with some oak later on. Can integrate and make progress. The fruit is mild and elegant, the length sound. Esp 2008 on. 2015-17 April 2006

2003 ()

ripe, raisiny aroma, warm core to bouquet, has a southern leaning. Fruit shows vigour, is punchy. Oak enters later. Serious structure, from 2008, but its richness guides it along well. 2016-19

2002 ()

smoky, raspberry/bacon aroma. Some stuffing on palate: cherry maraschino fruit, pepper present. Licorice, quite structured end. Oaked tannins present, is quite international. Helped by 20 per cent Belle Hélène. 2013-15

2001 ()

(cask) gently cooked blackberry fruit aroma, some reduction; tight cassis fruit start, closely knit. Solid end, oak handled well. Go straight to mid-age to drink it, eg 2008. 2017-19

2000 ()

live, upright aromas, brambly/olives, animal edge; has become more prune/plum less purely juicy. Good cohesion, jam textures. Esp 2005-06. 2015-17

1999 ()

blackberry aroma of interesting depth, some mystery - shows a cool side. Inky, full palate, with live tannins still, is young and displays the northern mineral cut, even though it`s a 1999. 2015-19 March 2005 Previously *** (cask) black fruits, spice, wide aromas; tight black fruit, grows well, leads to wide, sleek tannins. Very clean, decent body, quite modern. From 2006. 2012-15


smoky, powerful, brown earth bouquet; lot of crunchy fruit, good pungent flavour, muscular wine, evident tannins. From 2004. 2013-16


chocolate, red fruits, licorice aromas; fair weight, raspberries, nice fruit at end. Touch end tannin. 2007-09

1996 ()

aromatic, fungal bouquet. Clean-cut red fruits, lively, needs time to integrate. From 2004. 2009-11

1995 ()

likeable bouquet, maturing fruit, plum jam with a topping of spice. The palate fruit has the reserve, upright shape of its year when tannins were marked. Persists quite well, shows dry touches at end but still retains richness within the wine. 2012-14 March 2005 Previously *** red fruits, toasted aroma; prune, black fruit now on second stage, vanilla ending. Some dryness. 2008-10