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The Wines

99.5% Syrah av age 30 yrs, 0.5% Viognier, from 11 sites, 60-70% destemmed, 4-5 week vinification, pumping overs, 3x a day automatic cap punchings, aged 10-15% new, 85-90% 2-8 year oak (65% 550-litres, 35% 228 litres) 18-24 months, usually 22 months, fined, unfiltered, Ampodium the name since 2009, 15-25,000 b

2018

(casks) full, dark red; there’s a hint of the South, black olives, on the nose, simmered, firm coulis of black fruits, glinting Morello cherry. “It’s a gourmand bouquet,” R Rostaing. The palate serves immediate soaked black fruits, keeps a fluid nature, accumulates sweet concentration, so the finish is vintage-marked over terroir. It has good, solid length. “We started the 2018 harvest 3 September, the Syrah at 13°, the temperature 35°C. That high heat meant a 2° gain per week on the alcohol – by 10 September, the Syrah was 15° on a lot of the slope vineyards.” 14°+. From 2022-23. 2045-47 Dec 2019  GB £237/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017

(casks) dark red; has a smoky outer nose, crushed wild brambly fruits, black berries, blueberry, iron filings. The palate is stylishly reserved, red fruits such as mulberry, tayberry, flashes of raspberry. This has very good purity of fruit, a real winner. It ends on schist cut, twang. Good integrity, truth here. It’s still rather gnarled, and needs leaving until 2021. 2040-42  GB £495 per 12 b i/bond, £500 per 6 mags i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018

2016

(used 600-litre cask, bottling July 2018) dark red, crimson tints. The nose is gently rounded, has a raspberry, cassis bud, note of stems infill, mulberry fruit also. This has a bracing, assertive debut, with immediate crunch and red cherry fruit, muscle from within. It’s a sinewed, fresh vintage wine, and I like these tannins – real good pep they have. This combines Burgundian rigour with Côte-Rôtie finesse. “It is closed today, but has very joli potential,” René Rostaing. From 2021. 2035-37 Nov 2017

2015 ()

full red. Has a charming, open and forthcoming nose with a basket of red fruits and attractive sweetness: raspberry liqueur – up we go with that. The palate gives supple, aromatic richness, attractive coating, red fruits lined up, cherries. There are fine tannins towards the finish, not big on depth, which helps its flow. It has good, suave heart. From 2021. 2038-40 Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 ****(*) various contributors: 1) Grande Viallière (1980s Syrah, used 600-litre cask) **** dark robe. The nose is assured, gives iodine and blue fruit, cassis that is ripe. The depth on the nose is repeated on the palate, which holds good, firm richness and ripe tannins right in place. The close is thorough, and it extends well. 23 years. 2) Coteau de Tupin (2002-05 Syrah, very abrupt slope, used 600-litre cask) ****(*) dark red robe. The nose offers precise, lightly floral airs, red fruits, raspberry – it is curved but firm. The palate is also firm and pure, bears blackberry fruit with a compact nature, very good for young vines. This is stylish, true, precise, holds lightly sweet gras richness, fine tannins. It is close-knit and consistent. “It is balanced, round,” René Rostaing. 24 years. 3) Tupin, Leyat (ex Marius Gentaz vineyard), Viallière, used 600-litre cask) ***** dark robe. Tight, smoky black fruits, gunflint, bluebbery, naked rock airs mingle on the nose. The palate links very closely to the nose. There is good release of firm content, a bit at a time. The tannins are fine, crunchy. The structure is handsome, has vigour deep within. It resembles the shape of concave grapes in on themselves, thick skins, tight release of juice. 27 years. OVERALL ****(*) this will be an intricate, mineral-inflected wine with initially tight features, and only gradual opening out of its compressed juice.  2039-41 Oct 2016 GB £459 12 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069. GB/HK £460 12 b/£470 6 mags i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com GB £480 12 b £495 6 mags in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com

2014 ()

red robe. Has a fine tune nose, a pure blueberry, a murmur of violets, Pez sweets, discreet licorice and a wee note of toffee from the oak. The palate starts out rather spindly, with fine fruit, crisp tannin, all in precision. This is medium weight, Nordic in style, comes with a floral roundness on the finish, which brings in some extra drive, depth. From 2019. 2029-31 Oct 2016 Previously Nov 2015 ***(*) (casks) fine red robe. Has a handsome, open nose, presents a very clear aroma of black cherry, raspberry, and a drift of flowers, with licorice: this starts well. This an attractive, stylish, overtly aromatic wine. Red fruits such as raspberry and mulberry lie at its heart. The acidity is fine -  there is precise detail here. It is a northern Northern Rhône wine, with a hat doffed towards Burgundy. The content hits a quiet level, and the length is fresh. From spring 2018. 15,000 b. 2028-30 GB £185/6 b in bond Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com  Nov 2015

2013

dark red, dark plum colour. There is rocky fissure stream of blackberry on the nose, has a tight fruit air, with mocha, rocky stone touches, red berry, raspberry within. This has a good, tight typical of 2013 start via its compressed juice, with swift on the scene cut and clack tannins. It shows plenty of inner strength towards the finish. The centre holds sturdy but also fine gras. This is smoky, rather dark wine that is good, clear, still tight, but giving access to its terroir. 2032-34 Oct 2016

2012

(228 & 550-litre casks, close to the final blend, bottling Sept 2014) shiny, full red. Raspberry fruit, a baked aroma, drifts of violet and peony sealed into it. The palate has frisky debut, holds streamlined berry fruit, has cut, and needs three years to expand and “take” on the finish. This is a northern wine, not one from near the Mediterranean in feel; it takes me back to the 1970s, needs patience, will expand over time. It is tasty at the end, comes in all discretion. It lasts quietly, with good stealth, and I like its clarity. The fruit is very precise, has notable clarity. “Its fruit is evident, very clean and the freshness handsome; it will be very joli in 5 to 6 years,” René Rostaing. 2029-31 Oct 2013

2011

steady red robe; blackberry aroma – an easy rolling air of jam fruit, pine, buffed leather notes; the nose is enclosed. This is a wine of open arms more than many Côte-Rôties of other vintages from here – it holds supple fruit, has a sweet foundation, is still under the influence of its bottling, isn’t really expressive, and the nose and palate fail to link. The close is gummy. This isn’t a big horizon wine, and lacks the precision of the best years. It may take on weight similar to the 2007 vintage, but isn’t as good as 2007. Bottled August 2013. 13°. “2007 is a more solar year, 2011 a more terroir year,” René Rostaing. 2027-29  Oct 2013  Previously May 2013 ***(*) (assembled wine, steel tank after fining, bottling June 2013, next month) quite a full red. Pliant, supple air with a prominent floral tweak in its red fruit. Red berries lead the fruit aroma – this bouquet has an airborne style. The palate holds clear red fruit, has a spiced trail. It ends quietly – it isn’t grandiose but there is safe drinking in prospect here. The clarity of the fruit and the texture stand out. It gathers more body and darker fruit on the finish, and is more earthy, more grounded there. Stylish, restrained. From 2016. 13°. 2025-27  May 2013

2010

½ bottle: dark red; this bouquet comes as a tight, sealed knot – it is dark, inky, mixes blue and black berry fruit, has depth and stuffing, shows a note of licorice. The palate presents a clear, filled wall of black fruit, gaining an aromatic intensity as it goes. Full of promise. It is still “steely”. The balance is good, as is the connection between nose and palate, all well arranged. The aftertaste is clear-cut, with violet present. Very good life ahead of it. Especially around 2016-17 onwards. “It is closing down now – it was a lot more expressive and delicious six months ago,” René Rostaing. 13°. 2032-34  May 2013  Previously Dec 2011 ****(*) (3 year 600-litre oak cask, last racking June 2011, bottling in July 2012) dark robe, a purple top. There is good layering on the nose, fine density with a marked air of black berry and cherry. The palate has spicy grip, and there is a sleek cut to the fresh black fruit. This is droit – straight travelling wine, with good freshness – it is stamped by that. The finish is clean, shows violet traces. Enjoyable, balanced wine. It can expand and build well around its spine. Very clean-winded wine, which will reward waiting. From 2016, for instance. 2032-34 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 ****(*) (steel tank, malo not yet done, will be put in cask after malo) nearly 5 stars. lots of robe, big colour. Attractive air, there is a lot of fruit with life and stimulus in it, shows a smoky depth. Captivating fruit on the palate – this is really going to be delicious – it is wide, but moves well, is lucid, and the balance is great. Great pleasure to come. A wine with flair. From 2015. 2033-35, say. March 2011

2009 ()

½ bottle, wine bottled July 2011. light purple influence in the dark red. A red berry aroma traverses the nose, a smoky graphite and raspberry – there is plenty to develop over time on the bouquet. The palate has broad, flinty features – it is clear and well-founded, holds a really good couch of matter, a sweet upholstery. It is held in by its ripe, gummy tannins now. The fruit is red currant, red cherry, and the lip-smacking aftertaste is clear, marked by the firmness of tannin and spice. Muscular wine at its core – it is good. From 2014. 2030-32 “It is now starting to change, and is contracting with the cold. This is more massive and a bit more rustic than the 2010,” René Rostaing. Dec 2011 GB £420 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  Previously March 2011 **** (various casks, example of the assemblage, due for bottling June/July 2011) full glow red robe. Lurking, lingering red fruits aroma, fragrant raspberry jam, an air of steady depth comes out, will be showing vividly around 2017, say. The palate combines fresh gras richness with a line of tannic structure, has nerve in it. The fruit has dash, but is enclosed by bright tannins for now. The balance is pretty good. A wine that will take its time, has wide late moments, the red fruit persisting. 13.1°. “It has a wild side, is very round, very powerful, has volume – the Landonne and Blonde 2009s are more civilised,” R.Rostaing. from 2015-16. 2029-32 March 2011

2008

in an off vintages, one wine made, called Cuvée Terroir, as in 2002, the last one: dark tints in the red robe. Red cherry nose with a sound backdrop, is not thin. Bright fruit on the palate, that persists well, and runs straight along. There are dark tints – this drinks with some “steel” and freshness. Can calm the bite on its finish, drink from late 2012 – it is bracing for the moment, but will be OK in 18 months. There are fragrant cherry notes on the aftertaste. Bottled Aug 2010. It is made up of 50% La Landonne, 40% Côte Blonde, 10% classic wine this year. Most of the classic wine sold in bulk to merchants. 2020-22 March 2011 Previously Nov 2009 without Blonde, Landonne ** (casks) pretty, straightforward pale purple robe. Rather big, forward red jam, bright nose, with a little rock smoke under it. There are slight vegetal notes within the palate – it currently has a tight feel, is light but quite graceful bar the vegetal note that reoccurs on the finale. A bit mean, tough. Wait for this, and see. 14 years max. The La Landonne 2008: this wine went into the single Cuvée Terroir *** (casks) pale red, a wee purple in it. Nutty outer nose, fused in with a smoky take – there is a certain underlying quality here. Fine grain wine – it has a minor level of late depth, is more scented than usual on the aftertaste – the length isn`t bad. Tender wine – 15 years max, say. From 2013. Nov 2009, London The Côte Blonde 2008: this wine went into the single Cuvée Terroir *** (casks) paler than La Landonne; red fruit, light marzipan air along with baked nuts, keeps ticking over quietly. The palate is a weaving affair, with more implicit tannin than La Landonne – role reversal this year. Ends on a progressive, red cherry note , the cherry coming with a little note of intensity. From 2014. 16 years. Nov 2009, London

2007 ()

(an example of the assemblage from 1x 600-litre, 2x 228-litre casks, for bottling July/Aug 2009) steady red colour, not that full. The bouquet gives out smoky, lithe black fruit, with violet-mint in the air, comes with a late, clear lead pencil note. The palate has a soft black fruit start, with a slow gain in depth as it goes – it is fresh, but gains at it moves along. I sense a bonny structure here, with a low-key gourmand side, which could become more distant after bottling. Clear-cut fruit lies at its heart. From late 2011. 2022-24 Dec 2008

2006 ()

dark traces in the red; abundant aroma, with liqueur fruit such as blackberry that comes with a hint of game and licorice – there is great variety in this bouquet that comes with open arms. On the palate, it is a settled, sturdy wine that has a tempting juiciness in the fruit – blackberry and raspberry with a round curve of tannins. Its texture is pretty refined, it has ample content. From 2011. 2026-28 “It is very full, but closed – that`s a sensation that is very attractive on the palate – it`s a long time since I found that at Côte-Rôtie,” R.Rostaing. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (several casks to show a representative example) there are nice dark tints in the robe; the black fruit aroma combines clarity with a lissom air, and continues well. There is a little raisin and chocolate and also oak traces in what is a good bouquet filling. Bright black fruits start the show on the palate, with some of the typical thread of tannin from this domaine, that is live and well melded in. Has a cool glint, but also sound fruit with an extended arm. Is faithful to place and to vintage. From 2010. 2024-26. To be bottled July 2008. Tasted Jan 2008

2005

this needs air. It is quite a dark plum red still. After 75 minutes, the bouquet is aromatic, perfumed, with a trace of smoke, granite, steel. The airs on the nose are clear – mineral, channelled, smoky and brooding, and there is a depth that is oily, intense, tight. It isn’t showing openly on the palate, which represents 2005 very accurately. It carries good, rolled in black fruit, leads to a tar-dark berry, blueberry finale, which develops a crunchy aspect as it breathes. There is an appealing grain, a finesse in it, a smooth and pure, unresolved nature. Must be decanted. It is very 2005, which raisies a question about its evolution and ability to open over time. From 2015, perhaps. 2028-31  Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2006 ****(*) nice full black plum colour; the bouquet conveys a quiet elegance, is more on the mineral than the floral, suggesting the northern sector influence is stronger, with a minor show of graphite, but also raspberry and mineral. There is a pretty clarity on the palate: this is a finely hewn rock face that is cut straight and precisely. A perfumato, streamlined wine but a very good one, with bags of potential. From late 2010. 2021-24 March 2009 Previously Nov 2006 ***(*) (several casks to show a representative example) bright, pretty quite dark red; Light, berry fruit aroma that is expressive and has minty touches. The palate bears controlled, straight fruit with a little leather and tang in it. Sound length, fresh finale. Has a filigree, delicate style with bone in it. From 2009-10. This is a fine wine. 2019-20 Nov 2006

2004 ()

tender cherry red robe, with the top rim transparent. The bouquet holds red fruit with a little jam in its nature, and is bolstered by some smoked meat depth. This hints at holding more than appears on the surface, and it has the part floral, part lead pencil of the northern zone of Côte-Rôtie. The palate fruit is Burgundian, led by a delicate outer with a cherry, waxen flavour. The length persists quietly, and this is perhaps its most striking feature. It can be opened ahead of drinking to allow the air to broaden it and coax it out. A wine that comes en finesse, and so needs careful food matching. Its acidity is still quite prominent. 2016-18 Feb 2008, N Ireland Previously April 2006 *** assembled wine, from vat before bottling: expressive, open bouquet, smoky black fruits with violet traces. Darting fruit, plenty of style, direct shape. Outcrops of tannin, and some richness in the finish. Fruit on top now, can round out and take on more body and width. From 2009. To 2017-19. "This has always been fruit-dominated, with a fresh elegance" R.R. April 2006

2003 ()

Bouquet - smoked mulberry, with a hint of newly polished leather, broad, not excessive, also a game side to it. Berried jam flavour with some grip and bacon tinge. Has a succulent mid-late stage, cassis coulis flavour. Plum, safe, broad end, not much mystery - open and easy. Sound length, licorice/violet on finish. Drinks OK now - with a beef stew, daube. Expect this to hold stable as it is for some time, without great change. 2018-21 "The 2003s show this earthy, game tone." R.R. April 06

2002

only one wine, called La Cuvée Terroir, because of poor weather, ripening, and loss of 20-25% crop. softly fragrant bouquet, elegant and peppery, red fruits entwined with flowers. No great depth, but charming. Air bringsa leathery, mineral tone. Attack bounces out with lithe energy, a sprinkling of red jam. The Blonde wine here has raised its floral impact. Some fresh acidity at end, has a Burgundian shape. Fair length, scented aftertaste. Eat only with soft foods, no strong flavours. 2012-14. June 2006, Shrewsbury, GB Previously April 2006, at the domaine, *** black jam, hint of game on bouquet, with mint topping, spice. Steady start to palate, is vigorous and needs till about 2009 to draw together. Texture is lithe, there is nerve in the black fruit and acidity. Finishes with a mineral tang and some violet. Nose is ahead of palate. "If I hadn't included the Blonde crop this year, this wine would have suffered. I find a lot of white pepper in it." R.Rostaing. Very northern zone, schist wine in its direct shape. Esp 2009-14, can continue to 2018. April 2006

2001

dark robe, plenty here – shows black traces rather than reds. The bouquet is ample, striking, now opening and unfurling – cooked fruits come with wafts of violet. After 1 hour, the nose releases red fruits from its deeper, earthy moments that first led it. The palate has an easy-natured debut, a harmony and smooth elegance. It keeps moving very well, has real good length, and is supported by an outcrop of late tannin. It is clean as a whistle, a classic example of the northern Rhône-Burgundy connection, something that grows as it airs. After 90 minutes-plus, it is Pinoting on the nose and growing its refined clarity along the palate - a fragrant line of appeal dispensed with a careful touch. Very bonny, and easy to drink at just 12.5°. Good with poulet de Bresse in a clear, wild mushroom sauce – another “northern” connection. 2017-20 Nov 2009 Previously *** (cask) quite full, broad red berry nose, tar; dark flavours, locked up right now. Fresh wine, full enough. Upright, leave alone till 2006-07. Fair length. 2015-18

2000 ()

this has come round suddenly - went through a cassis leaf phase. Now bouquet is well cut, mixes some tar and flowers. Fruit is stylish and elegantly woven. Has a quite direct shape. Very handsome, gives a simple sense of pleasure and drinks cleanly. 2015-18 April 2006 Previously was *** open aromas, raspberry/cassis, bit of jam; straight elegance, red fruits present, nice licorice/vanilla length. 2010-12

1999

cooked plum, oil/leathery nose, plenty to come; quite round red fruits, generous but not plush. From 2006 will have more width. Length OK. 2014-17

1998

(cask) big, full, dense nose; good intense palate, well-balanced, spiced and tannic. Good length, clear dimension. 2010-12

1997

the only wine made this year: rounded, black jam style bouquet. Fat, rich wine, heat at end. Tannins present, some final oak. Esp 2000 for this. Length fair. 2004-07

1996 ()

prune, oily bouquet, violets lend nuance. Quite big extraction taste, chocolate effect, some final fruit - raspberry. Shows the vintage acidity, but is pretty well integrated. The chocolate returns on finish, with oak. Firm overall. From 2002-03. 2008-12

1995

(cask) lovely deep nose, cooking red fruits; good mass, just enough fruit. Very good length, evident tannins, firm wine. 2011-14

1994

marked spiced, stewed fruit aroma. Rounded fruit matches oak, has body, clear flavour. Sound acidity, tannins. 2006-08