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The Wines

from northern sector La Landonne site, 100% Syrah, oldest 1920s (Marius Gentaz) and 1940s, youngest 2004, av age in 2008 30 years, 30-40% destemmed, 4-5 week vinification, pumping overs, 3x a day automatic cap punchings, aged 10-15% new, 85-90% 2-8 year oak (65% 550-litres, 35% 228 litres) 18-24 months, usually 22 months, fined, unfiltered, 8-10,000 b

2018 ()

(cask) dark robe. The nose leads on a concerted aroma of cassis and raspberry, licorice, is well together, all as one, can blossom, impress. The palate gives clear black fruits, with steel in the tannins, black cherry with a good wrap of tannins, cumin, pepper-iron late on. It has good definition, with the sense of its place – the hierarchy of the terroir comes through, as opposed to the more lowly Ampodium 2018. It prolongs well, with even a note of iodine behind the fruit, a firm depth, the juice going long. Interesting. It’s 14.5°, which isn’t obvious. 2050-52 Dec 2019

2017 ()

dark red, black, purple tints in the robe. The nose is dense but interesting, blackberry fruit with a sultry perfume, rose hip, has good substance, even shows a touch of dates, meaning much ripeness. The palate gives thick but fluid black fruited content, the second half salted, with violets, rocks. There’s also licorice with attractive tannins. It grabs well, has tenacity, a good furrow of iron. There is crispness, tingle, within. The finish is more dense than usual because of the high sun. It has good style, has plenty in its basket, but isn’t overdone, will liberate, open, blossom. “A lowish yield of 30 hl/ha brought concentration. It’s very concentrated, a bit rustic, but very typical Landonne, and its floral side hasn’t been destroyed by new oak,” René Rostaing. 2045-47 Dec 2019

2016 ()

(used 228-litre oak cask, bottling July 2018) full robe. Has a soft blackberry aroma, ripe blueberry that comes with neat sweetness, is most inviting. The palate bears graceful red fruits that have real good carry and a winsome appeal, detail and purity on parade with length of fruit and content into late darkness and a firm layer, compact and round. This has good flesh. From 2022. 2039-41 Nov 2017

2015

dark red. The nose is well filled up, but not showing openly today, has airs of cooked plums, crushed raspberry, oaking, and a firm backdrop of basalt, dried herbs. The palate has a close-knit, smoky debut with fibre and crunch, only a little release of dense juice, ending in the grip of tannins and vegetal/stems. Its richness is very deep and solid, and will advance along the palate as time passes. It’s cussed for now. From 2023. 2042-44 Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 ***** (228-litre cask) full, dark red robe. The nose gives a firm air of ink, has a stately black-fruited aroma, very fresh black berries such as loganberry with licorice. It is all very tight and sealed. The palate coasts with stylish richness, tasty tannins, gives a real complete wheel of flavour, dark fruits, black jam, with fir, compact tannins. This is rocket wine – off we go from la terre to the sky in one glass. It is showing a lot of promise. “It always had more concentration, tannin and colour, than the other wines,” Pierre Rostaing. “It has the same nose as the 2013 Landonne,” René Rostaing. GB £1,080 12 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069. GB/HK £495 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com 2043-46 Oct 2016 GB £1,000 12 b £1,015 6 mags in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com

2014 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – CROP DESTROYED BY FRUIT FLIES

2013

dark red robe with a black centre. The nose is fusing well its floral instincts such as pot pourri. It has a good, tight black berry, loganberry fruit with steady depth and inner foundation via a note of beef gravy, some herbes de Provence, a touch of caramel. The palate gives firm content, comes with stylish richness, real elegance and detail in it. It ends on smoky bacon-violets. This will steadily and gradually gain over time -  it has inner resources. 13°. From 2021. €65 export. 2034-37 Oct 2016

2012

(5 year 228 & 600-litre cask, bottling Jul/Aug 2013) shiny, quite dark red robe. The nose combines an aromatic black berry jam with cordite; there is a deeper game-earthiness present. This is only just setting out. A glimpse is given on the palate – there is a careful little ball of jam and dark fruit richness, with fine acidity present, and a gradual development of gummy tannins. The exit is smoke-filled, firm and quite wide. Not an especially big wine, has the potential to take on greater stuffing and content. Patience a good option. From 2018. 2031-33 Oct 2013

2011

full red robe. Smoky, small berry fruit, a low-key sweet elegance apparent – the bouquet is young and “innocent”, offers violet notes as well. The palate sets off on rounded fruit; its tannins fit in and lend a gummy backdrop, ending on that. A slow-burn wine – drink from 2017? It is still under its Sept 2013 bottling, but has potential, and I like its finesse, the quiet late shades of fruit and graphite. Its late matter is rather full. “It has the metal and licorice of La Landonne,” René Rostaing. 2029-32  Oct 2013  Previously May 2013 ****(*) (5 year 550-litre cask, bottling Jul/Aug 2013) dark robe. This has a widespread aroma, keeps going well, offers fragrant black jam with licorice stick, a slight sweetness, gives a note of damp black soil. It persists and sustains very well. The palate has good tension in its black fruit; this continues well, is clear and fluid all through, and will be graceful on the outside, and pretty solid on the inside. It builds into a “busy” finale, with the tannins not forcing the issue – they give a mocha-smoke couch with the oak. This is a delicate vintage of Landonne, with sound substance at its heart. The finish is still in the cellar. From 2016-17. “Often these less robust years give the longest life – I give this 20 years. It is a wine with no excess in it,” René Rostaing. 2029-32  May 2013

2010

shiny, good and full dark red robe. There is a smoke house debut to the nose, multiple layers of black fruit and a smoked fish angle, black olives also, bacon. Gunflint and rock face come in to the picture. It is a stimulating start. The palate bears fine, nicely dense juice with never a false step. This lengthens with great sureness, is a stylish, pedigree wine that offers lots of tasty appeal, with a rocky frame, all very Landonne, around it. There is a small late sweet spot. The balance is very good. This is an absorbing wine. This is very close to ******. 13°. From 2018. 2038-40  Nov 2015 Previously Dec 2011 ****** (3-year 600-litre oak cask) dark, very full dark red with purple attached. The nose is filled, led by a chocolate depth; its black fruits aromas are clear, and have violet and licorice alongside – it is very, very young, very pure and shows a hint of earthiness in its depth. Explosive black cherry on the attack, with tobacco, strength of tannin running through it, a “meaty” fullness, no holes, but retaining drive and fresh length at the same time. It tones down towards the finish, where there is a spot of black jam and licorice, some of its gras peeking out. The tannins on the finish are dense, and have a lot of packed dust in them. STGT wine – this is very Landonne, with its powerful, square tannins, dark fruits. 12.8°-13°. 2037-40 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 ****** (steel tank, malo not yet done) bright and very full robe, has a real dark density. Blackberry front air – the nose is more obviously fragrant than the 2009 Landonne. Has a good, tight intensity about it. The palate is also perfumed, indicating a year of finesse and balanced, not intense, ripening. Great fruit, like having leather seats in the car – lovely stuff. The fruit dashes along with clarity, and there is extreme length and freedom in the wine. Quality fruit along with good structure. It will close down, no doubt. From 2016, say. 2036-39 March 2011

2009 ()

(casks) full red, black cherry colour. A good wide spread of black fruit across the nose, black pastilles with a fine nature and depth at the same time. There is a suggestion of violet in the black cherry air, and it is reasonably welcoming at this stage. The palate holds abundant, deep-seated black fruit accompanied by close, tight tannins. It firms towards the end, but there are juicy tints there as well. The tannins are well infused in the flavour, and while the wine is a bit dumb today, it is tightly packed, with terroir below the content for now. From 2017. 2032-34 March 2011

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED - WINE WENT INTO CUVEE TERROIR

2007 ()

(from 2x 600-litre, 1x 228 litre oak casks to be representative) bright, mulberry red colour. Has a reserved, lateral, pebbly-smoky, freshly ground coffee aroma – there is mineral in it, with a wisp of violet that is beguiling. The palate black fruit comes with a tang of graphite, and roasting in it. It runs straight along, without deviation, and is very clear-toned. It needs time to expand its palate, so wait until 2012. It can improve and develop. For now, it is sinewed, Burgundian and plays a waiting game – it stops just a bit early on the finish. 2028-31 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ****(*) (tank where it did its malo, before going into cask) fairly full red robe with some black traces. Holds a blackberry aroma, is a lateral affair with good clean airs. The palate has carbonic gas in it, but shows juice and a sound core matter, with correctly ripe matter. Live tannins at the end: I like the fruit and matter, and the texture is juicy now. 18-22 year wine . .? Jan 2008

2006 ()

plenty of red in the robe; Has a somewhat sultry nose (M. Rostaing says it has been open a few days), with a smoky, licorice air on top. The palate holds compact black fruit that comes with a line of freshness through it, but becomes round again on the finish. This is well-knit – I find the 2006 more sunny. It ends on a smoky, straight down the line aftertaste, with definite late mineral in it. This has good balance, and cleanses the palate. From 2012. 2030-33 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ****(*) (several casks to show a representative example) dark, black cherry robe; the nose is compact, still woven - has the Syrah of the northern zone in its aroma – tar with black fruit, a sealed, tight interior. There is a pretty dance on the palate`s black fruit – this is clear-cut. The fruit has a small sweet residue late on as it amplifies a touch. We are talking delicacy here, and implied nuances. The flow is consecutive along the palate, until some tannin and tar. Very refined, and would beat many Burgundies on its refinement. From 2012. 2027-29. “This was very good for a long time, but since November 2007, it has closed up. That is often the moment when the Blonde opens up,” R.Rostaing. Jan 2008

2005 ()

this hovers between 4.5 and 5 stars, but you will need some luck to catch it at a splendidly open moment, since its instincts are cussed. The colour is a still thorough red, the robe toning down at the top. The nose is wide and inherently copious, has airs of date and spice: it is just showing its first signs of maturity, early second phase black fruit, a bonny sweetness, always delicately presented. The bouquet gives the typical 2005 image of small, intense grapes, and has a roasted side. After the bouquet, the palate is more advanced than anticipated. It has a really joli, measured and sleek roll of black cherry berry fruit. Has good heart, with a flint spark and a persistent trail of spiced, dark and clear fruit, and notes of iris flowers. It finishes with the “iron” of its place, gives an up and down drumbeat of cool, clack-minerality – wham! - enter the rocks. Air brings out more animal, basic notes, and it is moving around as it breathes, has a really intense sign-off, tar and black cherry there. “It becomes more pure with air,” René Rostaing. Decant this. 2031-33  Nov 2013 Previously Jan 2008 ***** solid, dark red; very northern zone, with schist tension in it, and the lead notes. Also has some vegetal, with a red fruit underlay. Is very primary and unformed, but its early minerality is upstaged as it airs and warms, so it moves towards red cherry and less of the mineral tension. The palate is still full of grip; the middle is very much on the exotic tastes – pepper of Malabar in India. Does not concede to modern tastes in its youthful vigour. Length is full, discreet, very good. Forget about this until around 2012. After 90 minutes, is more organized and consecutive on the palate. Don`t come here looking for easy kicks – come for subtlety and style. It is a good sign that it evolves constantly on the palate. No hurry wine. 2031-35 Jan 2008. Previously Nov 2006 (several casks mixed) ****(*) dark fruits on the bouquet that is tight, has a pepper-leather backdrop and some reduction that lends an earthy air. There is a compact suggestion of black fruit on the palate, delivered with the usual light, subtle touch. The fruit persists discreetly: this is polished, perfumed wine, with a minted, leathery aftertaste. The fruit has energy and ends with some kick, a belle affaire. Esp 2010 on or so. 2025-28 Nov 2006 Previously April 2006 from 4 year 600-litre cask ***** very dark colour. Tight aroma, intense black berries, solid. Fruit is well wrapped, robust but still elegant texture. Flavour is chunky, gamey, tannins evident and licorice-chocolate mix from the oak. Earthy finale, persists. Bonny wine from maybe 2011. 24-26 years life. April 2006

2004 ()

fine red robe. Blackberry, smoky, mulberry heart to the bouquet which has a typical Landonne, smoky bacon style and mystery. This is stylish, holds fine red juice, the length smoky, the grip good. It is good and naked Landonne with a little basket of flowers as it ends. It is high on interest – it appeals to the head over the heart. STGT wine, very true. 13°. 2029-31  Nov 2015 Previously April 2006 (tank, pre-bottling) ***(*) red+ robe. Quite firm aroma - cherry, mint, licorice. Reserves of richness on palate, that lie within a discreet attack. Solid, but refined shape, as a Landonne should be. Tannins pretty thorough. Main flavour stamp is black cherry, licorice, with a tannic minerality and pepper. From 2010. Can age to 2022-24 April 2006

2003 ()

half bottle: overtly leathery, also prune and rather animal aroma, sprinkled with violet, is on the march already. Compact, rounded shape, near the finish reveals tasty, black fruit pastille flavour. Good mix of mineral and black fruit on end, persists well, and finish is clear and decisive for the year. Open and attractive, easy for everyone to like. To 2018-22. "The aroma was very floral at first. I didn't acidify these wines." R.R.

2001

(cask) black soil/violets bouquet; dumb black fruit, decent weight, straight wine, peppery, tarry end. Dark flavours overall. 2016-18

2000

black fruits/earth, peppery nose; good grain on palate, black fruit widens second half, some tannin near end. Broad finish. From 2006. 2014-16

1999 No Rating

Only 600 bottles made due to hail. Not offered when visited at the time for fear of drawing too much attention to so little wine. Said to be rich and generous, certainly sells as if it were.

1998

young colour at 6 years; pine, spice bouquet, violets. Mineral, dry-toned, assertive flavour, has a brittle black fruit side. Drinks younger than its age. Clear, elegant wine - reflects the Burgundian finesse of its cask days. Fruit is plum/cherry style. Can soften more. 2010-14 Tasted 2004

1995

sustained robe; blackberry jam, stewed fruit, since is reductive, and has farmyard tones on bouquet, violets, and dry air from the vintage. Stewed black fruit on palate, bit indistinct. Tight texture still, young middle age. Firm wine, pebbly finish. Has sinew, energy. 2016-20. Aug 2004 Previously April 1999 ***** firm, still discreet nose, brooding dark fruit; big flavour, well-directed extract; very good tannic support. Firm wine, lovely middle juice. Clean, long finish. 2012-16 April 1999

1990

nicely deep robe, still a good red. Grilled, earthy, robust nose, airs of rich tea, a sweet depth, has fundamental and earthy notes and also an ink, metallic note. The palate is full-on, combines black olive and prune fruit, is an unchained sort of wine. This is a big do – it is more in a local, unfettered vein than a polished one. Lacks a little elegance. But it is powering along, and is young for its age. 13.1°. 2029-32  May 2012, chez Rostaing