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The Wines

Viognier (late 1980s) from Limony, fermented, raised 92-95% new 600-litre oak casks, 5-8% steel vat 9-10 months, (until mid-2000s was 50% new oak), malo completed, “use of wild yeasts means the fermentation can last nearly a year, so little lees stirring is needed - it does that itself,” filtered, tall bottle, "drink with scallops, white meats", 3,500-5,500 b

2017 ()

(cask) yellow robe. Has a pear with candy air, grapey and floral, brioche baked bread; it’s a mix of ripeness and bits of clarity. The palate presents immediate richness, with good, profound flavouring, apricot-pear, and is tasty late on. It’s quite beefy – there’s plenty here, and it keeps together along the palate, the length sound. This is table wine more than aperitif, is suited to sauced chicken with morel mushrooms, for example. 4,950 b. 2023 March 2018

2016

fine yellow robe. Pear, camomile, latent note of pear skin along with nut paste, apricot and aniseed – these mingle on the nose. It has good filling, without excess weight, shows oak/vanilla, is a classic Condrieu bouquet marked by northern freshness and a southern richness implanted within. There is a good, gradual increase along the palate, a lemon tart flavour with angelica developing into infused tea notes in an interesting finish. This is still young, tight, shows a touch of tannin on the grapey finish. 14°. To 2022 July 2017

2015

shiny, bright yellow robe. This has an obvious, filled-up bouquet that spreads broadly via strong oaking and consequent grilling. A note of ginger lies within, but the fruit is blocked by the oak. The palate is muscular, close-knit, carries that grilling into the close. There is a savoury, fried angle to this, and it requires Asian cuisine and spices to get it going and out of its shell. It could have more finesse, and may actually be better if allowed to reach a second stage of evolution, around 2018. 14°. 5,500 b. €33. 2021-22 Oct 2016 

2013

pale yellow. Has a pear syrup, rather rich aroma, oak and smoke present, the ripeness of white raisin. The palate is fat, really bulges with depth, its elements are well trained, and the result is roundness. It is calm and not overdone. Suited to haute cuisine. It grips nicely on the finish. The balance is good, too. Only 3,500 b. 13.5°. €19 export. 2020-21 Jan 2015

2012 ()

flint yellow; smoke, burnt ash start to the nose, a rocky chisel air – the nose is not a fruit bearer on its first strike. Butter, wee banana and toasting also  here. The palate has a tight shape at first, then develops a more rich, rather coarse style. It fails to convince, lacks cohesion. Plain wine, possible dumbness post-bottling leaves the door just open for its future, though. 14°. €17.50 export. 2017-18  Nov 2013

2011

pear skin, light creamy robe. Beeswax, honeyed air, white fruit, apricot jam, greengage plum and a note of cooked apple present. This is a soft, rather elegant nose, The palate holds a rich, gras ball of flavour. It tastes of flan, vanilla, has a low-key acidity prolonging after half way, permitting a neat ending. This drinks solo. It has nutty, fine notes, but is a wee bit tame. 14°. To 2016.  Nov 2012

2010

pale yellow, light green touches. Light mineral finesse overlays the nose, with aniseed deep within. The bouquet is not really out and firing, so decant this, and/or wait until mid-2012. White plum fruit here. The palate is also locked in, sealed, but has healthy body and content, agreeable length. Pear and hazelnut, apricot feature in the flavour. It is a wee bit mainstream, but has good balance, is a good entity. 14°. 2015-16 Nov 2011

2008 ()

quite a bright robe. The bouquet glistens, starts with a careful pear aroma, also peach and nut, with white spring flowers in the air. The palate is tight, fairly weighted, comes with a pear and apple flavour, ends on baked fruit. It is never a real racer, more a steady worker. There is good acidity to help its clarity, and it can develop, showing especially well around 2011 on. To 2016. Good aperitif wine, or salads and other simple dishes. Bottled August 2009. Nov 2009

2007

rich looking, mild yellow. Big, ample nose – a real hammock of rich, ripe and mature fruit here. This is a muscular wine, that comes with tannin in evidence on the final third of the palate. It is inherently robust, has baked tones, is charged up. At 14.5°, it requires food. Has a firm finish from its power. To 2015 Nov 2009

2006

mild yellow; creamy, pear with bonbon sweets aroma that is quite luxurious, also bears spice – is beau. This is rich and orderly wine, with a round, flowing nature, but it becomes a bit sweet, a shade OTT towards the finish. Sipping more than drinking, 14.5°. Late mineral presence, with the aftertaste banana, peach, raisin. In the super-rich vein of Condrieu wines – warning: drink this sitting down. To 2012. Dec 2007

2005

sub gold colour; rather dumb bouquet – a little cooked white fruit with some nuttiness. The palate is meaty and fired up, has a taut shape. Chunky wine that is not relaxed, and is charged on the finish. Too alcoholic, balance is askew. Never comes in a settled manner. 14.5°. To 2008. Nov 2006

2004 ()

2001

bonbon, dried fruit skins aroma; ripe, cooked fruits, tightens and halts.