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The Wines

from Côte Bonnette (1987), or 75% Bonnette and 25% Saint-Agathe (1974), steel vat-fermented, malo usually blocked, raised 10 months, 2,800-3,600 b

2019

(vat, sugars, malo done, 15 mg SO2 just applied) Pear William aroma on the nose, apricot juice, a stylish depth, gleaming fruit on show. The palate has a good, sensuous feel, a run of pear fruit, peach, apricot. It ends with assurance and calm roundness, the length good. 2028-30 Dec 2019

2018

fine yellow robe; the bouquet is finely floral, peach, leans towards honeysuckle, pear fruit – an aroma that holds well, has a liqueur side. The palate leads on spiced white fruits, carries muscle, strength within, is close-knit. It has structure to permit evolution and encourage interest. There is a mineral presence, and it sits well, is upright, no sense of excess, good grip, no glow. Apricot and vanilla emerge on the aftertaste. Decant it. “It will age well,” René Rostaing. 14.5°. From mid-2020. 2030-31 Dec 2019  GB £225/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017

yellow robe; has a discreet, even subdued nose, but it comes with quiet assurance and style, mixes pear, apricot, acacia flowers, nuts. The palate offers good fullness, runs smoothly, with heart and substance, keeps moving on. There are pockets of mineral, and it’s fresh on the close, a little exotic fruit there. 14.5°. 2024-25  GB £495 per 12 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400   Nov 2018

2015

firm yellow robe. Has a nicely, deeply inset bouquet which offers a plump apricot and white peach aroma, along with notes of aniseed, infused tea, cooked lemon. The palate holds firm gras richness, is tight and set to emerge, gripping closely on the finish. The shape is upright, with late tannin, the aftertaste on honey. There are subtle quince and floral notes. The length is nice, with discreet, thick juice in evidence. 14.5°. “It found its volume and gras two months ago, with a point of late alcohol. We harvested on 31 August – there was a very rapid rise in degree in early September, which was 30°C – the grapes went from 14.5° to 16° then,” Pierre Rostaing. From spring 2017. 2021-22 Oct 2016 GB £495 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com GB £495 12 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069.

2014

fine yellow robe, legs visible. Has a caramel, cooked peach air, a little pocket of sweet white fruits such as apricot. This is stylish, the palate more collected than the nose; it bears soft white fruits such as pear and peach, with smoky grip. The length is nice and secure, and it finishes running. This is understated, has a good frame, a wine that will take its time: there is more to come. 13.5°. “It’s a super vintage – it has structure, muscle, is tight and very good,” René Rostaing. 2022-23 GB £193/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Nov 2015

2012 ()

fine yellow. Stone fruit, nut aroma that grips tightly – the nose also gives vanilla, spring flowers, a latent variety. The palate is close-knit, has inner depth of jam fruit. There is no Show Biz today. Its glycerol level is high, and it keeps going, has a flavour of fennel and infused tea. It is destined for la table with its inlay of gras. A rich wine with a cooked pear aftertaste. Drink with a quenelle de brochet (pike quenelle). “2013 is a belle year, with rich, structured, powerful, very typical wines, better than 2011. Drink with Comté cheese, Beaufort, Pinzel, Rigottes de Condrieu, saucisson,” René Rostaing. 13.5°. 2022-23  Oct 2013  Previously May 2013 ***(*) (steel vat) pale yellow. An air of pear and apricot jam starts the bouquet, which is fat and open. The palate is doing its malo now, hence unfinished business. It has a fat and wholesome texture, ending on round, facile fruiting. This has plenty of glycerol in it, is an interesting, open arms Condrieu, is rather Papal in that respect. The mid-palate is very fat, and a run of spice appears late on. Sound length, ends freshly. To 2019  May 2013

2011

pale yellow. Oily, supple air of pear jam, white fruits jam, licorice, guava, then violet as it airs, also brioche bread present. The palate has a silken texture, with spice pockets along its path; the fruit is founded on pear, backed by touches of quince and violet as it travels. Serene, pretty classy wine that hasn’t reached its top yet. The finish is good and complete. From 2014. Decant it. “It is a bit tight, and the air helps it,” RR. To 2020.  May 2013

2010

pale yellow; apricot, ripe fruit aroma in a floral bouquet that also displays vanilla pod, honey, comes with orange and mandarin and spice. The palate`s richness appears on the attack, has a fine line of restraint, and its sides suggest tannin. It produces extra gras out of the hat at the end. This is good. The style is reserved, the fruit resembles myrtille plum, and it will evolve. “I raise in steel to keep the wine direct. If you raise Viognier in oak, it becomes more round and supple from that,” René Rostaing. Interesting wine. 13.5°. 2019-20 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 **** (steel vat) pale yellow, green tints. Smoky, interesting nose of fine qualities, lasting pear and flint stone airs- I like this bouquet. Running, direct start to the palate, which expresses a tight, grainy nature, evolving into mineral, dried fruits moments on the finish. Apricot touches in the flavour. Good structure and length. This mixes a firm structure with fine fruit, and can live. Under 2 gm of sugar left, all done in effect. 2018-19 March 2011

2009 ()

mid-depth yellow. Honeyed but tight nose, lime and bergamot-mandarin filings in it, a good mineral glint. Broad debut to the palate, with a steady heart and concentration, persists on to a nice, clear end with plenty of surround, even a slight tannic moment. The berries were small this year, hence the concentration. “Good with charcuterie, saucisson, also goats cheese such as the rigottes of Condrieu, but the goat cheese must not be too strong,” R.Rostaing. Can live until 2015. March 2011

2007 ()

full yellow colour; broad, banana-flan aroma with a sprinkle of spice. This has an apricot, baked pear, brioche and waxen flavour, with good matter along the sides, and a near tannic finish. The aftertaste is honeyed. Great with food. From spring 2009. 2015-16 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 *** (vat) well-founded nose with compact air, and potential – shows pear near the skin of the fruit. Good, clear fruit on the palate, this is balanced and has a fresh, quite dancing nature, with sinew present. “I picked a little early in 2007,” R.Rostaing. To 2013. Jan 2008

2006

pale yellow; creamy, broad bouquet, with an apricot softness and banana, a little citrus/vegetal. This is a sweet-flavoured wine, with 17 gm of residual sugar – “the Condrieu of our grandparents”. Ripe mango late in the game, greengage before it. Flavours not easy to define because of the sugar. Jan 2008

2005 ()

fresh, floral nose with a nutty backdrop, cooked pears here, the word “cooked” = a ripe, hot vintage. The palate has a nice gourmand texture with grip late on. The wine is a bit hidden now, but is wide. Good length. More from mid-2007. To 2013. “It is tightly knit, but long and could age a little – for 5 to 6 years,” R.Rostaing. 3,600 b this year. Nov 2006 Previously April 2006 *** (vat, malo not yet done, low malic acidity this year) white fruit and varnish on the nose, pear and flowers. Crisp grip on the palate – extends and reveals dried apricot and some honey. Nice end richness, its fruit lasts well. There is a little nuttiness in it. 13.5°. To 2012. April 2006

2004 ()

BEWARE. There is gas in this. The nose is a mix of pear and sweets, with white flowers. Pearskin flavour on the palate, straightens up, there is some gas here. Nutty, pear ending. To 2011. This was decanted and left 90 minutes. Straight from the bottle is more troubled and gassy. “I will replace this with the 2006 if any consumers want to send me back the 2004,” R.Rostaing. Jan 2008

2002

fair depth on nose; second half quite rich, promising.

2001

open, pear and touch mineral nose; rich attack of pear and white fruit skins. Elegant; good, clean finish - mineral, liquorice, fennel

1998

typical bouquet emphasizing the pears with a splash of young oak. The palate is warm and broad without excess fat, showing apricot flavours. Very good length