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The Wines

mid-1990s Viognier from granite soils, whole bunch pressing, wild yeasts, fermented over 4 months, raised 30% new, 70% 1-7 year 228-litre oak casks (60% new, 40% 1-4 year oak used until early 2010s) 9-12 months, fine lees stirred, fined, filtered, "drink with foie gras, chicken, poultry", 3-5,000 b

2016 ()

bright yellow. Has a subtle, reserved bouquet, hints of orange, orange blossom, soft flowers, acacia, lime also. The palate links well, is also fine tuned and graceful, comes with a smooth caress texture. There’s a peach near the stone flavour that builds tannic tang, darkness on the close. The freshness is refined.  This gives very friendly drinking, silk on the go. It’s a pleasure to drink, even if it tapers a little after its good attack. 13.5°. To 2021 Mar 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe. Elder flower, greengage plum airs extend on the nose, with a note of ripeness in the fruit, and also vanilla. The palate gives an easy run of white fruits, nectarine with a lacing of mango, the latter indicating the ripeness of the crop. It’s broad across the palate, the finish is rounded, and the wine comes across as a good whole. 14°. 5,000 b. €21.20 export. 2019-20 Oct 2016

2014

yellow robe, legs visible. The nose gives a subdued air of “high” fruit, with a nutty-vanilla content from its oak. It isn’t especially open today. The palate starts quite richly, serves a mild richness only, and wanders after the mid-palate. This lacks a real HQ from which to send out an interesting or provocative message. Try decanting it. 13.5°. 5,000 b. €21.20. To 2019  Oct 2015 

2013

fine yellow. Cooked pear, camomile tea, a note of flan in an orderly, rather fine bouquet. The palate offers flavours of apricot, white strawberry with a lime-citrus and tangerine tang as it ends. It is a little brief. Ready now. Aperitif OK. 13.5°  €21.20 export. To 2018  Jan 2015

2012

yellow colour, quite a rich aspect. Soaked fruits, coated air, a robust, forward aroma. The debut is richly textured, the flavour a little tannic, involves orange, light peanut. It stretches out on latent power, ends firmly. A bit short on charm. Drink with kedgeree, truffled potatoes, earthy foods. 13.5°. To 2018  Nov 2013

2011

mild yellow colour, legs. The nose is restrained, but shows pedigree, has a soft tread, is based on elegance, not power. The aroma mingle honeysuckle, pear and apricot, vanilla, white tobacco. This has a flan, custard flavour along with orange zest - there is a nicely tart development of acidity in its late stages leading into a well-packaged finale, a good ensemble there. A Condrieu that drinks elegantly, serves an enjoyable aperitif, having just the right amount of filling for that. Drink in the here and now. 13.5°. To early 2016.  Nov 2012

2010 ()

shiny yellow, green glints, legs. There is a little top curve in a full nose that reflects simmered summer fruits such as pear, cooked apricots, cooked banana. The palate bears evident gras, gives a fat coating and ends roundly. It is thorough, and lengthens on some power, but not excessively. The aftertaste is clean, trailing white jam and spice. Its oak is largely absorbed, delivers some toffee on the finish from that. 14°. To 2016 Nov 2011

2009

rather full yellow robe; firm, oaked nose – really grounded and brooding, a shade oppressive. Wide, filled in palate, comes with a caramel-flan flavour, brioche bread. The finale is muscular, shows oak there, also an almost sherry connotation. Reflects the vintage power. 14°. 2013-14 July 2010

2008

mature yellow colour. Damp wool, already evolving style of bouquet, shows peach liqueur, Pear William and apricot – the fruit style is overripe. Upright palate, however – has a line of tannin on its sides that fences it in. It runs to a firm, not really open or supple finish. Hasn`t yet hit its straps. Forceful wine, with a little spirit in it. From mid-2010. 13.5°. 2012-13 Dec 2009

2007 ()

ripe yellow colour; baked pear aroma with a trail of mild white fruits behind – it is reserved for now, but is broad. The palate suggests high tone, and is scaled-up – a Big Wine by design. Has a muscled nature, ends firmly, with near-tannic late qualities. Worth patience, so wait until late 2009, since it is still tough. A beefy Condrieu. 14.5°. 2014-15 Dec 2008

2006 ()

even yellow colour; the nose has a lead, mineral air, with some tangy mandarin and citrus fruits, plus fruit skins and a tiny buttery note. The palate shows a little burnt sugar, as if the crop was late picked – it is a cobbled together affair. There are somewhat hard notes late on, and once more a burnt tone reverts towards the finish. 14.5 2009 Jan 2008

2005

yellow robe; oaked, broad bouquet, with some pineapple, cooked pear and exotic fruit tendency from the oak. Rich matter at the heart of the palate, the sides are oaked but it all works OK. Is a little retro with its overt oaking, from the flash 1990s. Dried fruits, baked pear flavours, nicely rich. Ends tidily, is pretty clean, with a raisin flavour on the aftertaste. 14°. To 2009. Nov 2006

2004

varnish, oaked aroma, the toast dominates. Severe, uneasy palate, with a transient flavour, alcohol rather prominent. Doesn't flow. There is some content, but the oak overrides the wine. Banana aftertaste for those who like that. Formulaic winemaking and approach, and the vintage's qualities aren't here. Too much oak, Vicar! April 2006

2003 ()

quietly rich elegance on bouquet, lifted by some mineral content. Generally a rich texture on palate - melted butter, white fruits. Dried apricots, flan finale. Full in its way. Drink before 2008.

2000

pineapple and oak present but bouquet is patchy; palate fruit a bit stretched, slight lack of core, mineral and melted butter end. Length OK.