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The Wines

Viognier (1960, some young vines) from the granite soils of Chanson hillside from Chanson at Chavanay, vat fermented at 18-20°C until 1050, then placed in 1-4 year 228-litre oak casks, raised 12 months (was 10-15% new, 90-85% 1-4 year oak until 2003), malo completed, 2,000-3,000 b

2018 ()

pale yellow; the nose is reserved, but implicitly graceful, has a shaft of mineral, powdered rocks, with ripe pear - right at the good moment of ripeness - and a note of banana. The palate has nerve, fibre, is tucked together, ends with a fine grain, a note of measured cut combined with stylish gras. It’s interesting, promising, with sound foundation. There’s oak on the aftertaste. “The oak is a little more on this than the Chéry, with a bit more depth, heaviness; I prefer the tension and finesse of Chéry,” André Perret. 14.5°. Bottled Nov 2019. 2030-32 Dec 2019

2017 ()

yellow robe; has a ripe, rounded, peach and apricot juice air, a hint of aniseed, banana flambé. The palate carries a little mineral theme along its spine, so there is a hint of terroir. It is pear forward in flavour, ends on a compote of white fruits, a bit of lushness. This is an off the wall, extreme vintage, balance not there. Bottled 30 Oct 2018. “It was a challenge to finish the sugars this year – Chanson took until June 2018,” André Perret. 15.5°. 2024-25 GB £380 per 12 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400   Nov 2018

2016

(steel vat, since yesterday) yellow with minor green tints. Pineapple chunks with some sweet depth, notes of lime on the outside, hazelnut mingle on the nose. The palate exercises quiet restraint, has an apricot, peach flavour, and a good insistence that beats a tune thanks to the terroir and the age of the vines. It’s just getting going, has more to come, holds foundation. This is tightly drawn wine, but one that is well packed on the QT, subtly so. 14°. 2,700 b. From spring 2018. 2024-25 July 2017

2015 ()

pale yellow robe. Banana and apricot air show in a fat bouquet, also vanilla. It edges towards exotic fruits such as mango, which reflect the sunny strength of the vintage. This attacks well – it is nicely full, with a clear run of pear, white fruits. The texture is smooth, the gras well founded. It has nutty bordering, a sense of tannin there. There is salt in a good finale. This achieves freshness even with its size. It just a bit closed on the finish after bottling in Aug 2016. 15°. 2,850 b. 2023-25 Oct 2016 GB/HK £195 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com GB £380 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.comhksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com Previously Oct 2015 **** (cask, 3 gm of sugars to do, malo not yet) yellow robe. Pear, bonbon, full fruit aroma, apricot. This has a firm frame, a really gras richness inner, very good length, finishes well. 15°. 10+ years of life. Oct 2015

2014 ()

(vat now, bottling next month Nov 2015) pale yellow. Toasted, cooked peach, light flan air, aniseed, a little mystery; it is enhanced by violets. This is nicely full, stylish, has good foundation. It runs with a joli freedom. Its fruit of apricot-quince is very well defined. Aniseed appears on the finish. There is a wee bit of oak hanging around. Very good: it is an ensemble, and a stylish one, at that. 14.5°. 2025-27 GB £310 12 b i/bond or £33.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

fine yellow robe. This has a very attractive nose – there are airs of apricot, flowers, pear, aniseed – it is clear, has ping. This is stylish – a fresh, very much lifted wine that combines grip and good firmness, and is mineral as a Chanson should be. There is a light tangerine-mandarin influence. For now it is a bit hidden. Has proper good length, very good body, is lovely. 14°. “It isn’t exuberant, is a wine for the connoisseurs, it’s a wine en finesse,” André Perret. 2024-26  Oct 2015

2012

pale yellow; low-key, solid depth in the nose – has a good pear fruit foundation with a licorice freshness, a wee note of toast. There is a nice bubble of gras on the attack – this persists, lingers well. The close is fine, tight and mineral. It needs another 9 months. There is interesting richness at its heart, and a good build of depth near the finish. From mid-late 2014, allow some time. “It is starting to get into shape,” André Perret. 13.8°. 2020-21. £320 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB. Nov 2013 Previously Oct 2012  (near the end of its sugar fermentation) stylish, open nose – pear, rounded aroma, quiet grain and mineral. Fine, bonny elegance, with good, subtle length. Oct 2012

2011

pale, glinting yellow. Has an agreeable and wide and varied nose, shows a supple, squeezy aroma of white fruit at its centre, mixes outcrop airs of lavender, linden (tilleul). There is good bone in the banana-pear flavour, that comes with a note of white strawberry. Tobacco notes and white raisin feature on the finish. There is a note of dried fruits, and a smoky extra intensity there. Has an elegant texture, and captures 2011 well – supple and aromatic qualities together. Interesting, STGT style, clear Chanson lines. It can extend its finish in 1+ years. It is correctly reserved for now. Decant this. 13.5°. To 2019  Oct 2012

2010 ()

yellow robe that is pale, with vanilla touches. Has a smoky, spiced air with an apricot fringe, a jam aroma, while hazelnut and peanut are mixed in. There is a light toast implication from its oak, and a hint of licorice. The palate is fine, clear and really ensemble – there is never a false step as it goes along, offering a gentle drift or waft of flavour. This has good grip and style, is a classic Condrieu, is subtle and deep, ending on notes of white jam. The finish is closed for now – decant it. Good truth in this. Bottled end Aug 2011. 14.5°. 2019-20 May 2012

2009 ()

two casks tasted - 1 year cask *** yellow tints in robe; attractive, pear-honeysuckle, acacia flowers nose, with clear airs. The palate richness is not overdone, and for now is especially marked by its oak on the finish. Has the potential for elegance in relation to many 2009s, decent length here. 3 year cask **** pale yellow; nice, buttery, lateral aroma across the glass. The palate has tight lines, good mid-palate richness, has a fine reserve about it. The length is subtly good. Classy, fine wine. “The 2009 Chanson crop was magnificent,” A.Perret. 2015-16 July 2010

2008

pale yellow. Clear and aromatic bouquet – oily, pear, acacia flowers. The palate has a good crystalline nature – there is steel in its veins, very good length. Nice, fresh, mineral and typical, STGT wine – very Chanson with a good tinkle in it. The flavour resembles apricot. Aperitif is fine. “Good with asparagus”, A. Perret. To 2015. July 2010

2007

pale yellow. Has a pretty, fragrant and varied nose that is beguiling, carries wafts of honey, aniseed, apricot, baked fruits tart. The palate is also handsome, is rich without excess forcing, and has a lengthening mineral thread along its second half. It ends cautiously, with a little expression and a touch of energy. From spring 2009. A promising wine, with some brio. Spice, vanilla, quince jelly towards the finish. Bottled Sept 2008. 2016-17. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (cask) this is near the end of doing its malo. The nose is typical, is reserved, has some clarity, a wisp of pear and a wee lime influence. The palate is above all elegant: this is heading for a good vintage, with an even flow and good balance. Has pear, white fruit flavour. This is 1 of the 6 casks made. Life of 8 years or so. Jan 2008

2006

light yellow robe; apricot, with some butter, white plum and spice, with fruit tart and white raisins in a pretty bouquet. The palate has a sound texture – there is some cut in this, with power present, and it kicks along well. A good, compelling wine, that really moves with some character. “The fermentation was quite long, and the soil`s acidity helped this year: we had a magnificent crop, and there was no yeasting required,” A.Perret. 15°. To 2016. Jan 2008

2005 ()

robe is between pale and yellow. Dumb bouquet – light cooked pear aroma, but seems as if it has just been bottled. The palate is a bit upright, but has a good, tangy, slightly mineral core with a touch of burn and oak on the finish, which is crisp enough. The palate flavours reflect pear and a little licorice. From mid-2007 – expect more roundness and a stylish wine then. 14°. To 2010-11. Nov 2006

2004 ()

A problem with 2 bottles tasted in Tournon, April 2006: taint on both of them, prominent acidity. Previously ***(*) honey, tangerine aroma, floral touches - has potential. Chewy, quite assertive attack, bold wine, dried fruits like the tangerine, citrus sources, also rounded flan flavour. Correct acidity, quite subtle wine.

2003 ()

(cask) full fruit, stone fruit/brown sugar. light top spice on nose. Golden fruits, quite elegant texture, then it kicks on the finish. Pear in a wine sauce taste. Chunky - over 15°. Not aperitif wine: when to drink is the question.

2002 ()

floral/stone fruit, roasted almonds nose. Palate bit taut, touch burnt on finish, caramel plus mineral. Acidity evident, more rounded from 2005. Liable to come and go. Not consistent between tastings.

2001

cowslip/butter aroma, cool mineral edge; tasty, elegant, stylish; white fruits/melted butter, good control, chewy aftertaste. Persists well. 2011

2000 ()

floral, delicate bouquet, clear-cut. Mineral on palate, exotic fruits, some final heat. Tight-knit, interesting. 2010.

1999

fattish year, rather hot end. Some bottles hit problems of refermentation later on.

1998

floral/honeysuckle/melted butter nose; warm, rich, channelled flavour. Good live finish, apricots. Stylish, can live.

1996

lime, some zest. Young oak, fairly vibrant Viognier. Decent mass behind. Oily, quite plush texture; disappears a little before the end; shows Viognier character but doesn't deliver fullness throughout. Attractive elegance here, though.