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The Wines

40-70 year Syrah on gore – decomposed granite soil, 80-100% destemmed (all destemmed until late 2010s), 3-4 days at 10-12°C, 3-week vinification, pumping overs, cap punchings, final maceration temperature of 30°C, aged 10-20% new, 60% 1-year, 20-30% 2-3 year 400-litre & 228-litre oak casks 18-22 months, final wine chosen by tasting, fined, unfiltered, 4,500-5,300 b


(used 228-litre cask, sugars finished, malo not yet) very dark; there is an inset of clear black fruit on a multi-layered nose, black olives, crushed nutshells, a good, first strike. The palate holds sleek black fruit, sustains well all through, flourishes on the finish. Can rate higher. “The 2018s are very supple, rounded; 2019 is a bit more on the tension than 2018,” A Perret. 14.5°. 2039-41 Dec 2019

2018 ()

(used 228-litre cask) very dark robe; there’s a sense of the south on the nose, black olives, thick blackberry jam air – it’s concentrated, rather muscular, but there are discreet notes of lead pencil, ie freshness, too. The palate gives a wide, dense serving on the attack, bears black fruits, extends with good body, liberates well on the second half. It’s well supported, holds good structure, is long, stylish, well made. The tannin quality is high – precise, fine. There are salt touches on the close. “2015 was more tannic,” André Perret. 14°. From 2022. 2036-38 Dec 2019


quite a dark red; the bouquet is reserved, but has sound filling, a spiced red fruit, red cherry aroma. The palate has spine, can build around that over time, the content a little sun-filled. The length is solid. This has a grounded nature, is 20% whole bunch, with a switch in late texture towards graininess from that. The finish is attractive, lingering red fruits there. This has character. 14°. Bottled July 2019. From 2022. 2036-38 Dec 2019 Previously Nov 2018 **** (400-litre cask, bottling Aug 2019) shiny dark red, a pleasing robe. The nose is bold, holds an aroma of deeply set black berry fruit, sunshine depth, some grilling, licorice, ripe fruit that is a touch “high”, along with floral dabs. This has a gourmand attack, off we go, in a flowing way, and sultry style tannins attached. There are good droplets of fruit on the closing moments, the length good. There’s a good, full glass here. “it’s a lot less tannic than 2015,” André Perret. From 2021. 2035-37 GB £210 per 12 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400   Nov 2018

2016 ()

(2 year cask) dark red. The bouquet is nicely deep, shows minor reduction, concentrated blueberry, licorice, raspberry, with a light pepper nose. The palate works on texture and attractive, aromatic depth, floral notes. This is Burgundian style, beau wine, holds unhurried sap from the old vines. It’s very bonny, the tannins are mild and savoury, flexible. The length is good, with quality of fruit all through, the close detailed. High charm here. From spring 2019. 13.9°. 5,300 b. 2031-33 July 2017


(steel vat, bottling Aug 2017) inky dark red robe. Has a surging, bold nose, violets in the background, but notably fine black fruit, licorice and mulberry; it has the room for detail. This is savoury, wholesome – send for the knife and fork, so packed in is it. Black fruits cluster at its centre, with delightful, tasty tannins that have great lift from within. The length is very good. This is broad, thorough, is a great glass of wine. It is outstanding thanks to its depth and balance. There are floral notes towards the finish. From 2020. 2035-38 July 2017 Previously Nov 2016 ****(*) (casks, bottling end Aug 2017, six months later than usual) full, dark robe. Has a thick, swirling but well measured nose – it isn’t opulent, just nice and full and sustained, with soaked cherries at its heart. The palate starts keenly, bears close-knit berry fruit, insistent coulis of fruit within. It ends freshly and full of beans after a tunnel of dark content. This has serious structure. The link between nose and palate is close. It is enclosed by oak, but has good fuel inside, the balance on the mark. “It is fine, the tannins aren’t too hard, it tastes fresh – there is wine here,” André Perret. 2033-35 Nov 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ****(*) (steel vat, old Syrah vines, sugars completed, malo not) very dark colour. Has a broad, brimming nose, a welter of dark berries, a real secure depth. The texture is lissom – this is a horn of plenty; its tannins are round and sit right inside the wine. The finish has foundation. Has a solid heart, is well balanced and very long. “This is Cornas this year!” André Perret. 14°. 2034-37 Oct 2015  GB £210 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com

2014 ()

(used 400-litre oak cask) dark robe; has an interesting nose led by blackberry, some damp leaves, menthol and a little meatiness. The palate hands out black cherry fruit with from within peppered tannins; it holds a gras that works well. Old vines have been essential to its content and security of base. The length is good. The exit is perfumed. 2025-27 GB £160 12 b i/bond or £18.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015


shiny, quite dark red. There is a notably perfumed air hovering over the nose, red fruit under, red cherries, soaked cherries. The nose has quiet class. There is beau fruit here, mulberry, for instance, and good depth of tannin, with some inner drive. This is potentially stylish. 13°. From 2018. 2030-32  Oct 2015

2012 ()

sound red robe. This has a very attractive little nose of berry fruit, smoky blackberry, with light violet implication. The palate runs with a low-key consistency in its red fruit, the fruit taking on greater depth and peppery moments late on. As it finishes, licorice, coffee and mocha appear. It can gain on the second half of the palate over the next two years. The classic St Jo is better value this year. £180 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB.  From late 2015. 2026-29 Nov 2013  Previously Oct 2012 *** to ***(*) (17 days, used oak cask) purple-black robe; scented blackberry, attractive air. The palate holds comfortable fruit, good matter and tasty fat. Nice end spice. Enough tannin to end well. 13°. 16 years of life. Oct 2012

2011 ()

(3 year 228-litre cask) shiny, rather dark robe. Gummy, a shade reductive black fruit aroma that has a fat in it that is appealing. Blackberry jam, brioche, dark cooked plums are mixed into it. The palate is supple, with a build in concentration as it goes. The tannins are stylish, lend it life, animate it. Its base is elegance over strength; its blackberry is unleashed, pronounced, has flair, is tasty. A lovely drink to come. There is a little mystery at the end. Classy fruit, w.o.w. wine, which will be great in the restaurant trade. 2024-26  Oct 2012


bright, shiny dark red; classy black cherry air that is linear and has good swish in it as well. Very fine fruit, with a good surround of dust and grain, violet and finesse – old fashioned, traditional rose scents. The palate is tasty, has real good heart, lovely fruit, is aromatic, very beau. The tannins are fresh and fit really well. Excellent length, with precise, clear-cut qualities. The fruit is silken, has great clarity. The balance is primo. The aftertaste is raspberry, floral. A Grande Année here. 14.25°. 2030-32  Oct 2012  Previously May 2012 ****(*) shiny, dark red. Has a clear, smooth air of red berry – there is intense fruit inside the bouquet, which has a medium depth oak outer air. The mulberry fruit is clear, denotes ripe berries. The palate starts with restraint from its bottling one month ago; the fruit is once more poised and clear. The wine has a secure depth, and picks up tannin and licorice, is ripe. This will be very stylish around 2016-17 – there is a lot of good quality, classy Syrah here. The finish involves modern oaking for the present, so wait until late 2014 or so – it is complete and lip-smacking beyond the oak. Good balance and promise. 14.25°. 2028-30 May 2012

2009 ()

full, deep red; has an oily, nice red berry liqueur aroma in a fat bouquet that shows smoky bacon and a light air of Chinese tea, barbecue smoke; there is a meaty width also. The palate is enclosed, densely packed and really tight-knit vis-à-vis the 2010. Its oak has absorbed a lot, with all the rich depth around it. This will be a savoury, grounded wine in four to five years – 2016 or so – and will show a red jam fruits flavour. Has a compact, wide, full finish, and is a power wine more than an airborne one. Smoke and licorice combine on the aftertaste. From 2014-15. 14.9°. “It is like drinking from 50 km further south compared to 2010,” A.Perret. 2028-31 May 2012 Previously July 2010 ****(*) (228-litre new oak cask) ****(*) full, bursting robe. Oak within a rich, rippled bouquet, the black fruit deeply set. The palate is wide and bountiful, really coats the sides of the mouth. Zappy, full Syrah here a – a lot of juice and rum about it, it goes in 360°, all around. The nose shows a small note of power – it turns out to be around high 14°, but isn`t really obvious. From mid-2013, for instance. 12 years. (400-litre new oak cask) **** dark robe; deep, soaked black cherry- chocolate air, wide and sustained. The palate has brisk clarity, its flavour like licorice, the tannins crisp, energy late on. Evident tannins. From 2014. 16 years. OVERALL ****(*) well, a treat awaits. Great fruit and richness. Tannins that structure it. 2027-30. “I have never made such a rich Grisières,” A.Perret. July 2010

2008 No Rating


2007 ()

2 casks tasted: cask 1 (new oak) **** full, quite dark robe; the nose is led by a compote of black fruit, with the oak in 2nd position, some floral charm also. The palate has a bountiful, fat texture, with mulled fruits in evidence and supple tannins. Its gourmet fruit is notably tasty. Beau, fragrant wine. To be bottled March 2009. “It is starting to swallow its oak – at the end of the summer, it was more oaked,” A.Perret. Cask 2 (1 yr oak) *** full, plum red. Floral, red plum, touch of blackberry aroma with some beef stock alongside. Compact red fruits on the palate – this has good core and heart, is a little reductive for now. To 2022-24 Dec 2008

2006 ()

red robe, mottling hue. There is a good mingle of mineral, and Pinot, plump red stone fruits, raspberry, tea leaves on the nose. Reduction, farmyard airs blow off after 5 minutes. This is savoury, round, glides well, picks up fine grain tannin, ending serenely. It is a cooler vintage wine, has a fine dart of fruit with spicing that shows that. It is lithe, quite naked. 13.5°. 2022-24 Oct 2016 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (cask of 400 litres) the black fruit on the nose is lined with some woven oak; the fruit veers towards the pebbly or crunchy with the oak implicated in it. The palate bears a ripe fruit start, with shades of jam here. Has a mix of plum fruit and black pepper (better than it sounds). Is very much work in progress. Is above average without being striking. From 2010. 2021-23 Jan 2008


(casks) tight-knit, smoky, upright, berried nose that is long on structure and reserved today. Good rich attack – the red fruit rolls off the bat. The richness is like a 1999. There is a nice fresh thread in this, and the length is good. 24 months, not 18 months casking this year. From 2009-10. 2024-26 Nov 2006

2003 ()

(cask) warm, broad bouquet - violets, scented black jam, truffly. Has moved on from straight grilled aromas. Lot of warmth, richness and roundness. Tannins thoroughly integrated, the shape is gourmand. Can drink well consistently, but leave till 2007 for more expression. 2019-21. March 2005

2002 No Rating



solid dark cassis fruit, earth/animal nose; meaty, oaked wine, is live, with guts, depth. Quite complex. Has the length to grow. 2018-21


quite dark; oily, ripe fruit nose. Rounded palate, has sap but also bite - good pedigree. Reserved when young. 2014-16.


rich aroma, deep. Great fruit, lovely straight away, cassis flavours. Some tannin. Well-structured. 2018-21

1998 ()

dark; berried/pepper aroma. Upright aspects on palate, subdued early - has matter but is reserved. End tannins evident, but well worked. 2016-18


tender, bit neutral nose; very cassis start, ripened fruit, rounded. Ideal lunch wine. Good match with spiced food. 2011-13

1996 ()

touch of game, advance on nose, nice mass; very broad flavour, probing depth. Dry side overall. From 2002-04. To 2011-13