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The Wines

50-60% Marsanne (mid-1980s), 40-50% Roussanne (2001), can be 100% Roussanne (2010) from granite soils on Merlan & Les Combes, cool decantation post pressing, fermented at 15-20°C, wild yeasts, raised 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks (light heating) 8-11 months, malo completed, fined, filtered, "drink with filet mignon of veal with a morilles mushroom sauce, tuna carpaccio", 2,200-4,000 b

2018

firm yellow robe; the bouquet produces a cocktail of tropical fruit, dried pear, oak, has grapey associations. The palate is fuelled, pretty robust, serves a roll of richness with fat surrounds, sets it up for sauced dishes, no holding back on that front. It suggests ripe Roussanne at its helm. It’s nicely voluptuous and embracing, gives a fun, gourmand glass. There’s a note of carbonic gas on the aftertaste. Decant it. 14.5°. 60% Mars, 40% Rouss. €18. 2027-28 Nov 2019

2016

yellow robe, has a rather rich hue. Tangerine, airborne freedom hovers on the outside of a fat, buttery aroma, nectarine and pear present. It’s good and pure. The palate rolls out nicely and widely, is suavely textured, holds plump content, the flavour grapey and natural, with some Marsanne bite, a kick from that. This is tender, rounded St Jo blanc. The finish is marked by light, steady grip. It’s quietly stylish, greatly charming. 13.5°. 2021-22 Jan 2018

2015 ()

bright yellow colour. The nose shows reserve, suggests nuts, peanut, with a sliver of lime freshness. There is a musky, grapey backdrop. The palate is rich right away, comes with a wave of fat, jungly fruits such as mango, guava. The finish grips a little. It’s playing its cards early, so get on and drink this now, à table. 14°. 2,200 b. €9 export. 60% Mars, 40% Rouss. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2013 ()

full yellow. The first aroma resembles flan, with a licorice, aniseed note of cut to help the clarity of the bouquet, which also gives infused herbal tea airs. The palate is a rich do, with a genuine depth of gras richness that carries for a long way. It is founded on glycerol, and doesn’t court acidity, so is truly regional. Sauced dishes on the menu here. A mix of peach and apricot set up the finale. Rather good, has character, and isn’t obvious – some of his early whites were on excess ripeness of crop. 13.5°. 60% Mars, 40% Rouss. €8.50 export, fair. 2020-21  Jan 2015 

2012 ()

yellow colour. Has an aroma of jelly made from white fruits, pineapple and pipe tobacco, a creamy pear coulis – the bouquet is nicely rich, has an exotic fruits touch. The palate has a “soapy” start, holds moderate gras richness, followed by a small tightening on the finish. The flavour takes in pineapple, citrus fruits, nutty elements. Drink this with food, not aperitif; the style is traditional. Can be decanted. There is a little glow on the exit, with grip and a late flavour of nougat, and it lasts well. 13°. 50% Marsanne, 50% Roussanne, 4,000 b this year. To 2018  Nov 2013

2010 ()

yellow robe, legs. Strictly speaking, there is an oxidation note on the nose, baked bread and oak under that, a strong air of dried white raisin – this indicates long hang time crop (tasted blind). This is a solid, firm bouquet – apricot and flan are present as well. The palate commences on richness, with that oxidative note hovering in the background. It shows a flavour of exotic fruits jelly before aniseed-honey flavours on the aftertaste. This is not a mainstream wine, and is suited to classic cooking with butter and cream-based sauces. It shows spice and honey in the finale, as well as pear. This is not an idle wine – there is a quite a lot going on. Drink now. 100% Roussanne, 1,500 b this year. 2015-16 Nov 2011

2007 ()

willing, open, bountiful nose – this is sympa – shows apricot and honey, vanilla pod, and the fruit on the way to being late picked. There is a good strike of fruit on the palate – a taste of apricot and nut. This is a real good display of fruit with late grip near the end, where there is freshness. Very interesting, a wine of great character, a real road runner. 600 b this year. 2014-16 March 2009