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The Wines

100% Marsanne (1942) from Maison Blanche, 1-year 600-litre oak cask fermented, raised 18 months (until mid-2000s was 10-12 months), lees stirred, malo completed, 900 b

2015 ()

(casks, bottling Apr 2017) pale yellow robe. Has a big, bursting nose – off we go; it is an open cocktail of toasting, peach, ginger snap, has the strength of the hill. The palate gives dried fruits, is grippy for now, with fresh threads through it, a firm close. It is dentelle – toothsome – wine with spearmint, good drive and dash. It is sinewed for now, will live well. The close is broad. “It is sunbathed, but not solar,” David Viale. 13.5°. From late 2018. 2033-36 Nov 2016 GB Justerini & Brooks £490 12 b in bond  www.justerinis.com/rhone2015

2014 ()

(casks) shiny yellow robe. Has a stylish, toasted-oaked aroma with fruit such as lime and peach present. The palate holds appealing juice, understated gras richness. There is a wee plumpness that appeals. The finale is rounded. It is a little on the medium weight side, not more than that. Its juice is its main card. From spring 2017. 2025-27 GB £400 12 b i/bond or £46.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  Nov 2015

2012 ()

(casks) yellow robe, shiny. Cooked pear aroma with citrus touches, a light mix of pineapple and orange and lemon. There is a fresh point on the attack from its carbonic gas, with a cooked citrus follow-through, fresh cut on the finish. Not yet as one, taking its time. It holds pretty good, squeezy gras richness. The gas doesn’t allow a true fit of its elements. From late 2015. 2025-26. £465 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB.   Nov 2013

2011 ()

(casks) shiny, quite full yellow. There is a good roll of aroma here, one with freedom in its expression, led by quince, spring flowers with mixed notes of lemon tart, peach, spice. This is a typical 2011 in its soft, fleshy nature, a wine of sensible depth; it isn’t flamboyant, and will gain in flavour and variety as it evolves. Its restraint suggests the more easterly locations of the appellation (tasted blind), isn’t a big charge wine. A lightly salty note runs through it, keeps it “up”. The length is discreet. This can develop. From spring 2015. 2026-27  Nov 2012

2010

(casks) shiny, inviting yellow colour with green glints, a rim of glycerol. Strong reduction on the nose, and for now it is hard to slip past that: the backdrop is fat, prominent, expansive, buttery, and glitters with some fennel cut: this is a sturdy nose. There are coatings of fat here, with some agility, so it doesn`t oppress or weigh down the palate. It ends on a full roundness, some glow as well, and has tannin on its firm, sealed finish. A Big Fella, has fat, is wild now, shows acidity early on. From 2014-15, and I hope it won`t close too much. Decant this. 2027-29 Nov 2011

2009

even yellow colour; tangerine, orange marmalade airs with nice drift and space behind, no oppression. There is a simmer of oak-toast, also honeycomb: the nose is stylish. The palate starts richly, a mild richness, with balance and fine gras. Its richness is moderated by fine acidity. Good length, aftertaste of white raisin and oak. Young, not showing a lot yet, so it draws in on itself at the finish. From 2013. 2022-25 July 2010

2008 ()

ripe, mid-yellow robe; caramel, flan, rounded bouquet – also brioche, glazed fruits, pineapple. There is quiet grip on the debt of the palate, offers fine Marsanne dried fruits within flavours of vanilla, spice, toasted white bread. Lengthens in a pebbly way, its matter cut through with some acidity and clarity. Local feel wine, STGT in style, authentic. From mid-2011. 2022-26 Dec 2009

2007 ()

heavy bottle alert – BOO! (cask sample) full yellow robe; has a bustling, busy aroma that is led by its oak and a full matter – it reflects butterscotch, barely sugar sweets and is very Marsanne in nature. The palate is compact, with a tang of earthiness, even white truffle at the end. The length is sound, but the flavour does drop on the second half. It ends on a clear, slightly oaked note and is a bit cellar-constructed. From 2011. 2018-19 March 2009

2006 ()

yellow tints in the robe; has an elegant, refined bouquet with some space in it – it shows apricot and sweet spices, a little carbonic gas. The palate has a measured, orange or citrus flavour, with a little cut of acidity and a calm, refined feel towards the end. This is nicely filled, a harmonious wine with a correct level of acidity, pretty classic cooler year structure. 2019-21 Dec 2007

2004

(casks) full yellow colour; has an interesting aroma – greengage, some fennel and spice – it is tangy, and helped by the vintage acidity. Handsome palate, led by a mix of peach and apricot, also hazelnut. Good fat in this, nothing overdone. The finish is clean and decisive. A wine of nice character; the oak on the finish demands it be left until around 2009. An elegant style of wine with some acidity evident that will allow it to tick over and gradually come together. 2020-22 April 2006