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The Wines

70% late 1980s Syrah, 30% 1950s Syrah from 1 ha at St Jean-de-Muzols Domaine de Gouye, purchased crop, 80-100% destemmed, crop cooled at 15°C 5-6 days, 20-23 day vinification, 2-4 pumping overs per week, aged 10% new, 90% 1-3 year ex-Burgundy 228-litre oak casks 11 months, then tronconic large oak vat 2-3 months, not touched from November to September, unfined, filtered, 4-5,500 b

2017

(used 228-litre cask) pretty full red robe; attractive mulberry fruit, raspberry liqueur feature in a sexy curve, an appealing roundness on the nose, good detail present. The palate carries an iron spine, is very dorsal, flanked by black fruit with cut, continuity. It’s a licorice-fest on the close. This has good character, is a real rocky Ardèche Syrah, crystalline, STGT features hovering. From mid-2020. 2030-32 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(used 600-litre cask, bottling June 2018) dark red. Blackberry, bright fruit on the nose with soft sweetness; it has style, is tender. The fruit gleams well on the palate, black berries present, mild and cosy tannins that envelop it well. This is discreet, sympa wine with good central juice, a w.o.w. wine for the restaurant trade. From 2019. 2024-25 Nov 2017

2015 ()

dark red, a violet top to the robe. The nose is reserved, carries potential, is bright, offers neat, stylish fruit, black cherries; there’s plenty of variety to come. This is good, compact wine, authentic; it has sève [sap] and pedigree, with ripe, pleasing tannins which are thorough, live, tasty. The length is fresh, the close good, on gras richness. Decanting advised. 14.5°. From 2020-21. 2034-35 Nov 2017

2014 ()

(40 hl tronconic oak vat, bottling next month) quite a bright red robe. There is a nice little crunch on the nose, with red fruits, lightly floral aspects: it is good and clear, very typical and true. This runs well along clear lines, has grip, tension, is a real STGT wine. The tannins are brisk, the red fruits tucked in. Precise and detailed, with marks for character. 4,000 b. To 2021  Oct 2015

2013 ()

quite a dark red. Lifted, floral, airborne nose that has a tender, perfumed style, smoke and dark berries featuring. The palate presents a nuggety bundle of berry fruit, takes on some rather iron-steel tannins that leave the palate clear as it ends. The length is sound – it keeps going well. Drink with foods, not solo. 13°. 2022-23 GB £156/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012

sound, bright red; has a light, red fruited aroma that works with appealing depth, and holds up discreetly – it is a clear, pure, floral-tinged bouquet, gives a good display, is a classic nose. The palate bears small richness of red fruit, bids the drinker well. It has a slightly strict pressing in on its sides from its tannins – this has nerve, an iron filing grip, with smoky results. A take your time, cerebral, STGT wine. 20% whole bunch this year. Especially good 2017 onwards. 2023-24 Nov 2013

2011 ()

quite a dark red. Blackberry, cassis airs – the nose holds up, has a secure depth. The palate has agreeable body, carries well, further than the equis Crozes 2011. Crushed fruits appear in a sparky finish. Good length, racy fruit structure here, a wine of solid quality. Drink especially from mid-2014 to fuse the fruit at the end. 13°. To 2019  Nov 2013 Previously Nov 2012 **** (bottling in 19 days, 23 Nov 2012) attractive, full red. Floral, appealing air, shows light reduction – the nose is well-scented, stylish. Good, lively fruit comes forward on the palate, leads to a fresh finale, good cut there. Has a fine, mineral close. Very good, STGT wine, beau and true. Light touch, precise, also w.o.w. – the rare double. 2018-19  Nov 2012

2010

(used 228-litre oak cask, malo done) pretty red robe. Spicy, smoke and licorice nose that is typical of Saint-Jean, keeps going well. The palate is wide, comes with a mineral inflexion, and the late fruit is rather savoury. Good, compact wine. Very good length – notable length, indeed. The fruit is particularly clear. 2020-21 (only 4,000 bottles this year: –30%) Nov 2010

2007 ()

full red; has a bright, dark fruit aroma that comes with a smoky, salty tang, and also some licorice. The palate has an upright casing of tannin – the fruit inside is ripe, a little overdone in that direction. There is a floral revival at the end. 2012-13 March 2009