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The Wines

early 1990s Viognier from Malleval, with early 1980s Viognier from La Combe at Limony from 2009, 12 hour crop cooling at 4°C, fermented at 16-20°C, wild yeasts, raised new-1 year 350-litre oak casks & barrel on fine lees 10-11 months, no lees stirring, malo completed, first wine 2007, called La Combe de Malleval since 2009, sharp rise to 13-14,000 b

2018

yellow; pear fruit lead on the nose, honey-butter, apricot, white tobacco. The palate holds attractive, aromatic fruit, pear, white plum, has a good middle, vanilla, greengage towards the finish, light notes of grip on the peachy finish. It is elegant. It’s bright at the outset, then becomes more squeezy, fleshy. “I almost prefer 2018 Condrieu to 2015 Condrieu,” Stéphane Ogier. 13.5°. To 2024 Dec 2019  £155/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2016

yellow robe. Pineapple, tropical fruits, come with more local apricot juice, hawthorn blossom airs, small spice and nuttiness. The palate sequels well into a fleshy, enjoyable trail, is full of stewed white fruits, peach flavours. It drinks elegantly on texture and flesh. The finish is good, neat, and there’s nice tang on the aftertaste. This is genuine. 12.5°. Bottled 6 June 2017. 2022-23 Nov 2017

2015

yellow robe, has a sheen. The nose is quiet, reserved, gives a notion of cooked lemon, greengage jam, quince jam also. It holds up steadily, has toasting in the mix from its oak. The palate links well to the nose, comes with some elegance in its gras, and a continuous run along the path to the finish. The finish is tidy, shapely. Well made, with greater lift and freedom than many this year. 13.5°. 14,000 b. GB £279 12 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2014

yellow colour. The nose offers a fine air of quince, white peach, has more cards to play. The palate is handsome, holds secure, still compact gras richness, and runs evenly to the finish. This is up for fish such as Dover sole, halibut, while turbot would be great. The finish is fresh, and detailed. Quiet class here. 13.5°. 13,000 b. 2019-20  Oct 2015 

2013

yellow robe. Bulky, broad bouquet, not truly out and about. For now, there is a compote of white fruits, nut, hazelnut air. The palate is fat on the attack, offers a ball of gras richness, and a smooth texture suited to la table. This plugs into a good richness, with a line of aniseed freshness on the aftertaste. Good balance, good length, stylish wine. Chicken, poultry would be good with this. 14,000 b. 13.5°. 2020-21  GB £108/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com  Jan 2015

2012 ()

pale yellow. There is airborne appeal in the nose – hazelnut, nougat, pear skin. The bouquet is a real flyer, also shows wax notes, light banana. The palate has a stylish start, is softly fruited, with a compote of white fruits, apricot, ends on vanilla, ripe quince, with cut. From spring 2014. It is rather subject to its bottling, but is elegant. 13.5°. Bottled Aug 2013. 2019-20  Nov 2013

2011 ()

steady pale yellow. Honey-nougat, rather Marsanne style aroma, has an air of stylish cooked pear, a drift of orange marmalade. The palate delivers a nicely rich of roll of white fruit, white raisin in the flavour, too: it ends on white peach, honeysuckle, fig jam notes. Agreeable, and sensibly made, not aiming foe too much. Holds fine acidity, and a clear, measured end. Suited to the aperitif and fine flavoured dishes. To 2017. 13.5°. Nov 2012

2010

mild yellow, green tints. Has a careful, stylish nose, offers cooked pear, is nicely steely and firm in nature, and there is variety to come. I find notes of lime and camomile tea here. The palate is interesting, reserved, with fine control of its gras. It finishes cleanly, freshly. It is OK for the aperitif, but I would prefer food since it has good body, nothing showy. Pear, ripe quince and mandarin zest feature in its flavour. Has good, rolling fruit. 13.5°. Decant this. To 2018 Nov 2011

2009

pale flint colour; curvaceous nose with a good inlay of creamy, crème patisserie aroma, a sprinkle of top spice, dried apricot and hazelnut. The palate sets off with decisive Mediterranean fruit that brings mandarin into mind, trails a peppery, pebbly finish, with pear and a crisp texture there. Makes a sterling, “pay attention” aperitif wine, or wait until September 2011, eat with grilled fish etc. Shows a bit of burn on the aftertaste (2009), which may settle. I sense a struggle to achieve freshness and balance this year. 13.5°. 2017-18 March 2011

2008

pale yellow. Cooked pear, apricot, vanilla, fruit tart aromas, also a bit of damp wool (there was some botrytis). Grippy start to the palate – a firm note, with a mix of honey and white jam flavour, all wrapped up together. Has a tight, controlled richness, and the structure to live and evolve. Decant this. 2016-17 July 2010

2007

full yellow with gold traces; has a nicely expressive nose – it floats with charm, gives a light hazelnut, pear aroma. The palate fruit is also pretty, laced with spice and honey, and finishes on a fennel note, aniseed – is fresh there. Great as an aperitif, or with refined dishes – simply prepared fish, Coquilles St Jacques/scallops, for instance. Good touch of late acidity, good length. Dec 2008