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The Wines

Viognier from granite soils at Chavanay La Côte (1976), Izeras (1939), cool decantation, fermented 50% oval 30 hl Stockinger oak vats, 50% 228-litre oak casks (10% new, 90% 1-2 years) (before late 2010s 15-25% new, 75-80% 1-3 year oak 225-litre cask-fermented), wild yeasts, raised8- 9 months, regular lees stirring, malo completed, filtered, tall bottle, "drink with delicate fish, seafood, shellfish, langoustines in lemon and fresh sage", up from 4,000 around 2003-04 to 14,000-20,300 b

2017

yellow robe. The nose is promising, reserved but precise, airs of tangerine, peach, nuttiness, has stylish potential, good variety. The palate has a granular presence with assertion in its richness; it builds into a sturdy style finish, the gras neat and plump there. It sustains well, all along. 14°. €27 export. 2024-25 Nov 2018

2015

glistening, full yellow robe. Dried fruits, apricot airs lead the nose, with a raisin, sultana presence, a note of oak-toasting, and passion fruit cut. The palate is weighty, has a firm gras richness at its centre, with tannins that add a couch of late depth. The length is solid and sustained. It has a thorough make-up, with the muscle of this vintage. Decant it. 14°. 13,500 b. 2023-24 Oct 2016

2014 ()

the nose is bounteous, oaked, proffers a mango, banana, very ripe peach fruit set of aromas. The palate is coated and full, takes on some smoky, vanilla notes from its still absorbing oak. The finish is round, gives a note of licorice in its grip as it closes. Assertive but good. 14°. 13,500 b. To 2019  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

shiny yellow. Has a smoky, toasted aroma, with hidden depths of stylish cooked fruit, flan: this is a promising bouquet. The palate is shapely, enjoyable, all together. Good acidity runs throughout, and good fat sits in tune with that. One of the leading Condrieus in 2013. Marks for the harmony that many fail to achieve. 13.5°. 14,600 b this year. 2019-20  Jan 2015

2012 ()

pale, light green colour. This has a fresh, rather buzzy nose – apricot, glazed fruits, pear and nectarine: this is a genuine Condrieu. The palate bears proper Condrieu depth, an attractive ensemble. It runs with calm precision, the white fruit is well-shaped, bonny and wavy. This has class, lots of charm, is a confident Condrieu, a good example of Viognier. The finale summons pear and infused tea. 13°. 2018-20  Nov 2013

2011

mild yellow. There is a thrust of oak on the wide nose, which shows sustained depth, gives airs of lemon marmalade and spice; has a ripe ripple across it. The palate is sealed, close-knit, hardly showing. It needs another winter to clarify it and to coax it along. Its density is wrapped up, so decant. The aftertaste shows white jam, apricot, white raisin that come together in a solid, compact finale. Good with salmon, monkfish, firm flavours and cheeses such as Reblochon, and Asiatic pork dishes. There is a light citrus carry at the end. This carries well along the palate, and has potential to be realised over the next few years. 13.5°. 2021  Nov 2012

2010 ()

gold-tinted, full yellow robe. Has a big, oily air that is waxen, has dried fruit airs, banana flambé, toast – a bouquet of some scale. The palate has a pushy debut, is rough and tumble, obvious wine with more on the attack than on the finale. The flavour resembles dried fruits, pear jam. It tones down at the end into a quiet, orderly close, even fading a bit. Drink now on this showing, but could be in a lull. 14°. 17,000 b this year. 2016-18  Sept 2012  Previously Nov 2011 **** glowing yellow; ripe, buttery, open nose, has a sunny, apricot, white jam fruit aroma with a guava, exotic intonation, pineapple. The palate is smoothly textured at the outset; this is a glistening wine with layers of fat in it, and an interesting herbal – such as rosemary, tilleul or linden – infusion in the late stages. Good, complete length. It carries its richness in a bulky, obvious way. Suited to sauced dishes, lobster, rich flavours and foods. There is a discreet licorice touch on the aftertaste. 14°. 2018-19 Nov 2011

2009

marked yellow. Big, outward nose – shows candy fruits, brown sugar richness, ripe and cooked fruits. The palate is similar to the nose – gives a full burst of packed flavour, its power sustains it, ending on a tannic firmness and grip. The texture is suave. To 2016. Has potential. 13.5°. July 2010

2008

quite a full yellow; wide, sustained bouquet – spice, Gruyère cheese here for a change, also butter – the bouquet is appealing. Full and well-textured palate – offers good Viognier fruit, is refined, and a touch “of the air”. It doesn`t disappoint – it delivers, either for the aperitif, or for fine flavours, since it has plenty of fine body. Good length, a little grip on the end moments. 13°. 2013-14 Dec 2009

2007 ()

apricot, pineapple hue in the yellow robe; the nose is wide and insistent – shows brown sugar and caramel along with pear fruit, dried apricot and some sweet spice. The palate is hearty, with the veneer of a smooth texture, and runs along steadily, comes with a good line and length. It pursues this direct trail well. A full Condrieu, with a little tannic edging and control. It can lengthen further in time, after another 15 months or more. Decant if drunk in the next year or two. 14°. 2014-15 Dec 2008

2006 ()

marked yellow colour; the nose hits out with oak above all, plus brown sugar, and veers towards the smell of white truffles, has an earthy couch. The palate leans towards the late harvested with residual sugar apparent at the start; it is therefore good that the wine ends quite clearly. The flavour is white fruit jam with the brown sugar in attendance, my liege. This can live, and deserves some maybe Asian cuisine. To 2013. 14.5°. Jan 2008

2005

yellow robe; persistent, live, probing nose – overt flan aromas, crème caramel now but there is variety such as dried fruits to come – exudes banana now with some oaking. Ripe fruit style of wine on palate – a full, weighted wine, with some raisin, and tangy, smoked apricot. Clean finish, round and gras with good grip. Is long, has a red wine shape. I’d leave it for the oak to absorb. Try in 2008-09. 14.5°. To 2014. Nov 2006 “It`s on the minerality now, but this is a slow evolution wine, and I think it can run over 8 years or so, - eat fish, white meats, rabbit, chicken, veal with this,” Yves Cuilleron.

2004

safe yellow colour. Buttery bouquet, is toasted, with a fat underlay, shows tight appeal and a nutty aftertone. Restrained flavour, withdrawn at present, interesting variety of taste shades to emerge. Firm finish, sound length, is very fine. A mineral width emerges on the aftertaste, indicating its excellent grip. This can open and flourish. Lovely, refined wine, oak still pretty evident. To 2013. April 2006 Previously Nov 2005 **** banana, spice-tinged nose with good grip, oak toasting, dried apricot. The palate presents fullness with a comfortable core and a good thread of acidity. There is a touch of burn on the finish. This is elegant overall, based on round, mature vine fruit. The flavour combines apricot and flan. Sound length. This is round and appealing. 2009-10 Nov 2005, New York

2003 ()

melted butter, pear aroma, some minerality also. Cooked white fruits with the vintage heat at end; full flavours and width. Good Viognier display. 2011-12

2002 ()

(cask) ample colour and bouquet; good gras and width.

2001

peach skin/nut nose, peppery/spice. Gentle dried fruit skins/marmalade flavour. Elegant, good length, mineral/toasty finish. 2009-11

2000 ()

reserved nose, good potential. Grows nicely on palate. Persistent, quite complex. Tight, discreet lemony edges. 2011

1999 ()

½ bottle: plush gold-apricot colour. Damp wool traces on the nose, typical of mature Condrieu, with a slight cheese and beeswax duo. As it airs, it gains mineral airs, better direction. The palate starts on a flavour of burnt sugar, the texture wholesome; has a rich core, is better than the bouquet. Still has some acidity, though it tapers away a little. The aftertaste is toasted, a bit burnt. Has the moelleux nature of very ripe grapes from this sunswept year. There are floral, mineral attachments towards the finish. It is holding up well. 2008-09 Nov 2005, New York