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The Wines

from Chavanay young vines Les Eyguets, La Côte, harvested until mid-Nov, oak-fermented/raised, 100 gm residual sugar, 13°, termed "liquoreux" by Y.C. "vendangé par trie de pourriture noble et de grains passerillés" on label, label means "sorted from noble rot and dried-up, raisin-style grapes", 3,000 b 37.5 cl, sometimes 2,200-5,000 b 50 cl

2011

gold-apricot robe, looks rich. Mighty rich spread of bouquet, has a caramel, quince jelly, mandarin and banana flambé air, dried raisins. The variety of aromas includes lime marmalade. The palate gives a good mix of richness, with a commendable late run of clear acidity. There are notes of Earl Grey tea, Bergamot, toffee and late on, a Viognier pear-treacle combination. Take your time, sipping wine that merits the concentration to discover its abundant palette of aroma and flavours. It mixes the casbah of the south with the hills and breezes of the north. 13°. 2028-30  Nov 2012

2010

pale gold robe, a full yellow, rich look. The bouquet has some style, is led by white raisin for now, hasn`t done a lot, has an orange marmalade air which is typical, cooked lemon also. Vanilla, orange, spiced richness on the palate, almost like a fine version of Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. Has good intensity, is still rather closed. Solid length. It ends on spice, cumin, vanilla pod, fine tea. From late 2013. decant. 14°. 2024-26. 2,200 b this year. Nov 2011

2009

apricot-gold robe; the nose is not really open – shows orange marmalade, some finesse in it, banana, white raisin – and is bountiful for the future. The palate – yes, this is mega rich. Has a true Viognier, smoky pear flavour, one attached to the best late harvest wines. It continues very well, offers variety on top of its terroir. Clear finish, honeyed aftertaste. A few sips = delight for tout le monde. 13°. 2020-22. July 2010

2007 ()

full yellow. Mulled pears aroma, that travels with vanilla and white raisin – a full dairy vanilla or ice cream-style aroma; it is backed by dried fruits and hone. The palate gets off to a good, rich start, and handles its residual sugar well, wending its way towards an accomplished, clear finish. Honey surfaces in the flavour, liquid honey. The tang and clarity on the finish are good. Long wine, too. 13°. 2021-24 Dec 2008

2006 ()

gold-apricot robe; very varied set of aromas – orange, mandarin, honey, pear – with a slightly salty tang late on. The bouquet persists, and I like its orderly nature and relative restraint despite the sweetness of the late picking. The palate starts rich and beau, has a gently infused pear flavour, with white raisin and apricot surrounds – it keeps moving, too. There is a little caramel in this, but it ends on an almost flinty note, with sultana and some honey in the taste. Sound length. 13.5°. 2020-23 Jan 2008 Previously June 2007 ***(*) golden sugar, bonbon, butterscotch nose with an orange peel surround, and plenty of variety – ginger, apricot. Has a full, earnest palate, with good acidity and a nice sprinkle of honey, then cues in some spice. Good style here – its sweetness is refined. Not a big hitter, but sympathique. June 2007

2004 ()

very golden, syrup colour. Pear-led, brewed bouquet, combines honey and tangerine, coconut juice aromas, also banana flambe. Rich, apricot-spice flavour, presses firmly on through the palate. Flan-raisin combo on aftertaste, pretty clean, tangy finish. Nice charm and open appeal. 2014. April 2006

2002

botrytis style Viognier with its pear, damp aspects, also brown sugar, crème brûlée. Wacky full flavour, very round, lemon marmalade taste, has some acidity to help. Runs on well, very correctly handled. Lasts nicely and is not oppressive. Dec 2004 Previously (cask) *** dried fruit skin aroma; harmonious, full wine; complex variety of flavours, good length. Fresh, clear-cut end. Nov 2003

2002

botrytis style Viognier with its pear, damp aspects, also brown sugar, crème brûlée. Wacky full flavour, very round, lemon marmalade taste, has some acidity to help. Runs on well, very correctly handled. Lasts nicely and is not oppressive. Dec 2004 Previously (cask) *** dried fruit skin aroma; harmonious, full wine; complex variety of flavours, good length. Fresh, clear-cut end.

2001

gold robe; very lush, ripe nose, full of white fruit skins, pineapple, honey, some alcohol. Overtly fat, near glutinous texture. Pear skins, apple tart, pineapple flavours. Seductive, but small sips only. Drink early.