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The Wines

purchased wine 4 suppliers, 30-40% Grandes Vignes, 20-70% Les Greffieux, 20-50% Les Murets, Les Rocoules, pre-fermentation crop cooling, destemmed, 28 day concrete vat vinification, pumping overs, then cap punchings, aged chez Famille Perrin in 10-30% new, 70-90% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 18-20 months, 10 casks whose different plot wines are assembled at the end of raising, unfined, filtered, first wine 2006, 912-5,000 b

2016

(cask, bottling April 2018) dark red. There’s a good beef stock take on the nose, with cooked plums, oiliness, cassis fruit; it has sunshine, a sure depth, and wispy floral-rose airs. The palate shows charcoal/oak on the attack, with good, stylish depth, a rustle up of red fruits, spice, and a vigorous close. There are good flashes of brightness through it; there is plenty of juice here to allow it to flourish. Solid quality, good persistence. 3 casks, 912 b. From 2021. 2034-36 March 2018

2015 ()

(casks) dark red robe. The nose comes forward with an abundant air of slightly sweet, soaked black cherries, is curvy, and also give licorice. The palate is immediately juicy, flows well, has a deep epicentre of its cassis-black cherry fruit, takes on aromatic, fine grain, powdered tannins which set up a rounded, elegant close. Clear, stylish Hermitage, on the Burgundian side of the tracks. 13°. 1,500 b. €45 (2013). From 2019. 2031-34 Oct 2016

2013

very dark red robe. The nose is mixed, produces blackberries, cassis, a little licorice: it will be a slow gainer over time. The palate strikes well on the attack; there is a good frame here, with still rocky tannins encasing it. The fruit is of good quality, nice and pure, and lies well within it. The second half is grounded. This is a good, solid Hermitage, with the house style of smoothness. The length is bonny. It needs leaving until mid-2017. €45 at the cellars. 2025-27  Oct 2015 Previously Jan 2015 **** (vat) full, dark robe. There is a nicely oily depth to the nose, a suave black cherry aroma that is good and fluid. This is a poised, polished start, a bouquet that can develop. The palate has a good centre, a swell delivery of enjoyable, shapely fruit. This drinks well: it is well balanced and fresh, pretty open. It pinches in as it ends – and can develop and broaden that aspect. Greffieux style fleshy fruit lies at its heart (tasted blind). 10% new oak only, 3,000 b this year. From spring 2017. 2026-28  €28 export. GB £198/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Jan 2015

2012 ()

dark red. The nose is a calm, slightly baked black jam and prune affair – it has the sun of an English not a French summer; there are floral touches, and it is appealing.  The palate rolls easily, is a aromatic and fine, combines supple tannins with its gras richness. This is tidy, not especially profound Hermitage: serve it in a large glass. It could be deeper, but that is the vintage. 13°. 2023-25  Oct 2015

2011 ()

dark red robe. There are soft airs on the nose – plums, flowers, red berries, light licorice – it has good, gentle qualities. The palate offers a cosy harmony, red fruits with a note of floral tenderness. It holds a little grain tannin on its rounded finish. Its gras is joli. The vintage and the influence of Les Murets-Les Rocoules are foremost in its make-up. It is tasty on the end, and is showing well now. 13°. 3,000 b. 2023-24  Oct 2015

2010 ()

(casks) full robe; good, striking black fruit air, a flamboyant blackberry with speckles of pepper, curry powder, capsicum. Nicely rich attack here, a fleshy and bountiful wine; the richness keeps going and marks the palate well. It is persistent, with integrated tannins that show some bite on the finish. The tannins control the finish for now, with the fruit receding there. From 2014. 2026-28 Nov 2011

2009

bright, bonny deep red with a black tint. Shows smoky, restrained potential on the nose – its deep mulberry air is well shaped, comes with smoked bacon; I like the quiet insistence of the red fruit within it. This is a stylish Hermitage – there are dark spots in its stone fruit, which leads to a blackberry-tobacco exit. The mid-palate gives a quiet show of central gras. It does not quite have the full blood of Bessards-Méal in its veins, so lacks some real local depth. The balance is correct. Needs 3-4 years. 14°. From 2015-16. 2027-29. 40% Grandes Vignes, 40% Murets, 20% Greffieux, 3 suppliers this year, bottled Oct 2011. Feb 2012

2007 ()

full, black robe, a little less deep than the 2006. Soaked fruit, sappy style aroma, a touch of dampness in the air – it is rather withdrawn for now. The palate displays a sweet, succulent style, with supple tannins: a sweet, fleshy wine with a minor level of tannin at the end. I regard it as clumsy, and not really focused or sure of its route yet. Oak appears on the mid-late stages, as well as final heat. There is coffee in the flavour. Bottled October 2009, so can gain a little, and go to ***, maybe a shade higher. 14°. 2020-22 Dec 2009 €55-60 retail

2006

1 supplier, 600 b this first year, 80% Les Greffieux, 20% Les Murets, raised 33% each new-1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 24 months, bottled July 2009: super intense dark red robe. The nose broods away, offers broad layers across the glass – violet, mineral – interesting variety. This has a big, imposing palate, is a muscular Hermitage, the Real Thing. It develops a compelling, provocative freshness at the end, has a good mix of guts and peppery cut. A really tasty, proper Hermitage – it is a Rocker more than a Mod (the Triumph motorbike beats the Vespa scooter), with a great sense of its place – STGT wine. The finish is open and willing. 14°. 2021-23. “I find menthol and licorice on the finish,” Nicolas Jaboulet. Dec 2009