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The Wines

60% Viognier, 40% Roussanne (both 1993) from Empurany, co-fermented, raised used oak casks 7-12 months, malo completed, unfiltered, Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche until mid-2010s, 4-8,000 b

2019

pale yellow; lemon notes, greengage, peach airs in a grapey bouquet. The palate is fleshy, has a ripe fruit style, sun in it. It lacks a bit of pep, is based on two varieties susceptible to the sun. It’s squeezy, early drinking wine for la table. 2022-23 Feb 2020

2018 ()

yellow robe; peach-elderflower, nicely ripe nose that carries an open blush of first youth from the sun of the year, a note of fennel, too. The palate offers good mixed white fruits, with a smoky note, pliant content, some concentration in the juice. This will go well with white meats, Asian cuisine. The close is round, calm. I give this until 2025-26. Feb 2019

2011 ()

(cask, bottling May 2012) fine yellow robe; has a waxen, cool air, tight air of white fruits, and is all as one already, nothing loose and en route about it. There is a soft and pliant palate, with an undertone of depth and matter. It ends on a quite, firm note of hazelnut. “It is similar in some ways to 2010 – the same level of ripeness, phenols and degree – 13°. There was very low acidity this year.” Hervé Souhaut. Tender drinking, solo on its own as an aperitif is fine. 2016-17. 8,000 b March 2012

2010 ()

attractive, bright yellow robe. The nose is measured, has a very appealing citrus topping, a nut underlay, pear and apricot also in its interesting variety of aromas. The palate is elegant, stately, harmonious as it rolls along with quiet, sustained grip. Very good – this is calm and stylish. There are notes of licorice late on in what is a very clear finale. 13°. 2018-19 Nov 2013, La Table de Sorgues, Vaucluse Previously March 2012 **** mild yellow robe; has a floral, peach fruit, white stone fruits aroma that also involves honey and wax: a very pretty start. The palate also glides off well, the attack is tasty and there are delicate flavours of plum fruit with mild citronelle lime style notes alongside. It lengthens well, is fine and well sculpted but there is also good, still discreet depth. “It can live for 8 years or perhaps more,” Hervé Souhaut. 13°. 2019-20 March 2012

2009

full yellow; fascinating nose – camomile, infusion air about it, banana, apple, also wax airs – it is varied and “brainy” – subtle and well-set. The palate is also very good - it holds unusual flavours of banana, pear, not the usual Viognier cooked fruits, either. It is tight, still young, has good length, finishes clearly. Most unusual, and good, comes with fine acidity. Hervé says it is a bit later harvested, but it is not like that really: it is dry, but rich, and grounded, but fine. Good balance, quiet richness. “I had hail on my white vines twice in 2009 – in June and July. But the late season was very belle, there was no rot, so my maturity was 13° - usually it is more like 14° as in 2006, or 14.5°,” H.Souhaut. 12.77°, the usual outtake on the label. To 2015. Nov 2010

2008 ()

cloudy yellow robe; a fine line of lime emerges from the bouquet, and softens with air towards more honey, nutty influences. Fresh, bonny white fruit on the palate – a wine that is compact, has firm length. It is above vin de pays status, has nice character and poise. Fine and a good presence in the glass, right in the moment, as it were. 13°. 2011-12 Dec 2009

2007 ()

buttery aroma with a slight “high” note, elegant and sustained. Deliciously rounded palate – rose petal, barley sugar tastes – this is really fine, has lovely poise and a floral finish. It is fresh and continuous along the palate, and is way above vin de pays status. 14.3°. To 2016. €30 – exceedingly good value – at Le Repaire de Cartouche, 8 blvd des Filles-du-Calvaire if you like the top entrance 75011 Paris. +33147 00 25 86. Oct 2010

2002

pretty, fresh wine, with some body. Good for food, goes beyond aperitif status.