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The Wines

95-100% Syrah (1958, some 1985), 0-5% Viognier from site of same name with South facing very stony schist soils, 50% destemmed, 30% whole bunch, 20% crushed whole bunch harvest, 3-4 week steel vat vinification, wild yeasts, daily pumping overs, cap punching, aged 20-30% new, 70-80% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 24 months, egg white fined, unfiltered, a revival, but first recent wine 2009, organic wine, 2,500-3,000 b

2018 ()

(cask) dark robe, black tints. The bouquet has size, scale, is full with rich content, piles of berries, the fruit ripe, hints of prune present. The palate sets off with volume, an immediate richness, almost voluptuous it is. It carries the sun-filled rays of the year, is fat and savoury. There is a nudge of iron in its blue fruit late on, as the terroir puts in a claim to the weather Gods, and the finish brings a little floral scenting. This is quietly complex. From 2023, no hurry at all. 2046-48 Nov 2019

2017 ()

(casks, bottling Sept 2019) steady red colour; the nose involves blackberry, floral, the aroma curvy from the sunshine. There are smoky hidden corners. The palate has an iron filings texture, is cool, with a firm second half. It holds good potential, carries interest. It’s measured, well detailed, intricate. 2042-44 Feb 2019 Previously Nov 2018 ****(*)(casks, bottling Aug 2019) dark red; smoky bacon, raspberry, floral airs – the bouquet has a sexy curve, potential roundness of shape over time. This is STGT Viallière, bang on the mark even in this hot vintage – its floral and soft gras comes with a peek out of rocky and welcoming tannins towards the finish, which is aromatic. Despite the heat, it’s very good to have such terroir in the glass. The red fruit streams along well with a little vintage thickness in it. 13.5°. 3,000 b. From 2021-22. 2043-45 GB £550 per 12 b i/bond, £565 per 6 mags i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018

2016

(casks) dark red robe. The nose gives a sweet-noted aroma of blackberry fruits that have a rather plush nature, are accompanied by a musky rose-hip air. This envelops the palate via its cosy richness, has a plump style, a fleshy nature with perfumed lines running through it, until a more decisive, mineral cut on the aftertaste. It is a savoury, openly tasty Rôtie, with squeezy, gummy tannins and a lip-smacking main frame. From 2021. 2037-40 Nov 2017

2015 ()

(cask) shiny dark red, with purple in the robe. The bouquet gives some classic Côte-Rôtie red berry fruit, strawberry jam, a compact, sustained aroma, with speckles of bosky freshness. The palate bears floral, rose-hip influenced red fruits with a mix of velvet and firmness in the tannins. It proceeds with a relative grace from within its rocky setting, and the finish is clear, tangy. Decant this STGT wine, extremely accurate and expressive of its place it is. Wait until 2020 at the earliest. 13.5°. 3,000 b. 2040-43 GB £550 12 b £565 6 mags in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  GB/HK £265 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com Oct 2016 Previously Apr 2016 ****(*) (cask) bright red robe. A floral air floats across the nose, rose hip, with a tender roundness of red fruit and a little oak. This is stylish, graceful, gives a very beautiful display of neat red fruit. It glides with a caress of pleasure, has great poise, is a wine on maximum charm. Its tannins develop intricacy and mineral, floral perfume. This is a Beauty. It is STGT wine, very true. 2039-42 Apr 2016

2014

(casks) decent red robe. The nose gives a smoky bacon air, dried herbs such as thyme, a latent black cherry. The palate bears clean, crisp dark fruit with a swing in its step. The finish is full of running. Lucid and lively wine with dentelle qualities that keep it nicely up in the air. The aftertaste brings in some oak tar and a fine juice. It will gain some flesh over time. 12.5°. 100% Syrah. 20% new oak. 2,500 b.  From mid-2018. 2031-34  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

red robe. It has the customary floral hover, led by peony and rose, on the nose, with sweet nuggets of red berry, bacon. A cosy style is to come. The attack is fresh, with iron in its centre. This is spinal Viallière that has the 2013 concentration in its make-up. There is an insistence of small red fruit berries at its heart. This is interesting, complex. 2035-38  Apr 2016 Previously Jan 2015 ****(*) (casks) dark red, magenta robe. There is a biscuity angle on the nose, with a toasted, prune mix, a ball of ripe fruit at its centre, and sound overall clarity. The palate shows local, floral tones on the attack, with mulberry, loganberry fruit making an impression. This has depth and charm. It finishes on rocky tang, a real child of poor soils. There is an interesting variety of stimuli here. 12.5°. €55 at the cellars. From late 2017/2018 – it is intricate and needs time. 2033-35  Jan 2015

2012

red robe. An appealing glance is given by the bouquet, which shows flowers, mulberry. It is self contained, and will express more. The palate offers lissom red fruit, with quiet tannic grip. The tannins are wired finely. There is a cluster of tannic content and mineral on the close. This is pure at heart. 12.5°. 2031-34  Apr 2016 Previously Nov 2013 ****(*) (casks, bottling Sept 2014) nice, quite full red. Smoky, blackberry fruit, sleek aroma that has a granite-cordite spark and a dusty trail in it. It is all very clearly delineated: flowers such as primrose line up. This has a most interesting attack, entwines fruit, clear tannin and freshness like a Sailor’s Knot, all very productive, therefore tightly sealed. Very bonny fruit and finesse come with it, and it goes notably widely late on. “It always shows well early; we always pick the crop very ripely, with a strong maturity in it,” Gilbert Clusel. 12.5°. From 2018. 2030-33. £500 per 12 b in bond, J&B in GB.  Nov 2013

2011

(casks) dark red robe. The bouquet gives an air of mulled red berries, a note of meat stock, perfumed red fruits – it is a bold bouquet in the making. The palate gives accessible red berry fruit, strawberry fruit with a savoury inclination, and a pliant texture. Clear flavours would suit this – a roast chicken de Bresse with tarragon, for instance. There is good typicity on the nose and the palate, and it persists well. Stylish wine with a wrapped up power – it combines Burgundian clarity with Northern Rhône depth. It ends on pebbly grain, crushed stones for now, with hints of flowers. From late 2014. 2031-34  Nov 2012

2010

(casks, bottling Aug 2012) quite a thorough red. Has a rather stiff-baked aroma, lead pencil and smoky rocks; mingling in is some early red cherry, and the nose also shows “spine”. Very good harmony on the palate, its texture is supple; it is even drinkable now with its integrated, ripe tannins. A wine of subtle qualities, nothing showy. Its length is good, clear, subtle, lovely. Its balance is great, really serene. It declares the finesse of the Northern Rhône very openly, and has great velveteen texture. From spring 2014. 2034-36 Nov 2011

2009

(cask) inviting, promising, bright dark red, purple top, legs down the glass. Good purity in the fruit on the bouquet – a clear strike, impressive: this has top Burgundian elegance. Wee airs of bacon, coal dust. The palate fruit is prominent from the start – it rolls along, offering clear virtue and pleasure, goes to the wire. Poised wine, a delight thanks to its genuine fruit, its good manners. What Côte-Rôtie should be – fine. It will become spherical. It is drinkable early because of this delightful fruit, but there is masses of extra to come over time. Great around 2014-17. 2029-32. Bottling Aug 2011. Nov 2010