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The Wines

1956, 1959, 1963 Syrah, part Serine, part clones, at Fongeant, Les Lesardes, destemmed, wild yeasts, 12-17 day vinification, pumping overs open to air until 1030-1040 specific gravity, then closed pumping overs, aged 60% 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks, 40% new 600-litre oak casks 20-22 months, (2009 with younger vines was 50% new, 50% 1-year 228-litre oak casks), fined, unfiltered, 600-2,500 b

2012 ()

quite a dark robe. The nose presents an aroma of fruit lozenges, crushed red berries such as raspberry, comes with small floral dab. The palate is mild and easy, drinks in the eye of the vintage, therefore. The finish is soft, restrained, just a note of mineral, cold tea present. This is all about softness, both of texture and flavour, and aroma. 13°. 2021-22  Oct 2015

2011

(casks) dark enough red. Broad, filled bouquet that has a firm centre, and promises well, especially from 2015-16. There are drifts of chocolate and tea intensity, and it is nicely typical. The palate is sturdy, chunky, grounded. It exists on its oak now, and has the stern jaw of the northern zone with good quality black stone fruit inside it. Its tar-oak impression will ease from 2016. Stylish, good pedigree Côte-Rôtie. It finishes completely and broadly. From 2015.  2024-25  Nov 2012

2010

(casks) full red, purple. Blackberry, black cherry air, the bouquet has a rolling depth, a “coating” of richness, a very wee game hint, and oak raising traces. Lovely clear-cut fruit on the palate, complete with northern sector tension, a graphite-licorice influence that leads into a more juicy blackberry fruit and floral trim ending. Very pure, STGT wine. Super grape quality here – really good wine that is full of horizon and promise. Juicy length, very fulfilling. Bravo. The balance is wonderful. I have vintages such as 1978 and 1985 in my head when tasting this. “It is only 12.3°, I harvested the 9 October; I haven`t touched it, it is not extracted, and I have racked it once only after the malo,” P-J Villa. pH of 3.35, note. This will live. 2026-28 June 2011

2009

(bottling next month) good, dark red. Full nose – solid, muscled, slightly smoky, very compact air of black berry, hint of oak. Has a northern sector glint in its eye on the palate – good, pure fruit, with tension present, lines of active tannin. The palate is less stern and solid than the nose, and reflects Fongeant well. A wine in no hurry, can relax its stiffness. From 2014, say. 2023-25. 600 b this year. June 2011