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The Wines

Viognier (1948) on La Combe at St-Pierre-de-Boeuf, a rented vineyard since 2009, 12 hour crop cooling at 4°C, fermented at 16-20°C, wild yeasts, raised new-1 year 350-litre oak casks & large barrel on fine lees 10-11 months, no lees stirring, malo completed, tall bottle, 1,500-3,000 b

2016 ()

yellow colour. The nose is reserved, has a good vibe for the future, airs of banana and dried fruits, peanut, apricot; it has a cool theme. The palate kicks off on cooked citrus fruits delivered with fresh strength, plays a long game. Tangerine flavours lie centrally. This breathes inherent strength on the nose and the palate, has a firm side, and will live well. It reminds me of Volan [at Malleval] with its muscle. Dried fruits, brioche and light honey aggregate on the aftertaste, a good variety of prompts. This is well-defined. “It is precise, true,” S Ogier. 13°. From 2019. 2028-30 Nov 2017


pretty full yellow robe. The nose gives an air of camomile tea, roasted nuts, a latent aroma of ripe greengage plum. There is a hint of aniseed helping to free it up. The palate coasts along in stylish fashion, with enjoyable gras rolling through it. The finish brings in toasting, honey. It avoids the over robust manner of some this year, but has the body for seafood dishes, white meats. It’s going to live pretty well, is well sustained. 13°. 3,000 b. GB £240 6 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069. 2023-24 Oct 2016


yellow robe. Has an attractive, pear-led nose, buttery and engaging – there are honey and apricot, aniseed touches. This is rich, with good grip on the second half. It holds good juice, is musky on the finish, the length cool. It keeps going well. Drink with sweetbreads, langoustine. “It is saline and rich,” Stéphane Ogier. 13.3°. To 2023 April 2016


yellow robe, legs. Has a stewed pear aroma, cooked green (Bramley) apples, a ginger, honeycomb, nut influence. The palate has a jelly fruit flavour, peach and greengage plum. It lengthens steadily, and gives some lip smack on the finish. This has some finesse, shows detail in its make-up, but is best suited to light food flavours. 13.5°. 1,500 b. 2019-20  Jan 2015


pale yellow. This is a serious nose, reserved, potentially deep, has red wine notes, strength. A slim traverse of white fruit crosses the glass for now: this is a good, classic Condrieu bouquet, a waiting wine in style. The palate features glazed fruits, has that rich take on life, a solid nature. The finale is generous, will be flamboyant. Suited to sweetbread (ris de veau), Vieille France sauced dishes. A broad, sustained wine with pear in its flavour. 13.5°. 2020-22 Nov 2013


pale yellow, some glint. Has an attractive bundle of aroma – apricot, orange marmalade, pear, light hazelnut feature, a wee white raisin note, honey. Offers enjoyable, discreet variety. The palate has tender fruit that keeps going nicely: it mixes white fruits with floral, honeysuckle drifts. The nose and palate are in step together. An excellent, stylish aperitif, a very good ensemble. Has a clear, “up” finale. 13.5°. To 2017  Nov 2012


yellow robe; smoky, pear-banana drift on the nose, wax and apricot – a nose of foundation that is still tight. The palate shows more open matter than the nose. It starts cautiously, but has well-wrapped potential to unfurl and please. Nice and thorough wine of good length. Decant this. Best with food. 13.5°. To 2019 Feb 2012

2009 ()

very pale; buttery, melted butter air, a soft undercushion of lime, and just a hint of petrol. The palate starts on supple notes, has gras and an easy style through it – this is suited for uncomplicated aperitif drinking. There is a little mineral tang in the later stages, and the simmer of 2009 intensity on the aftertaste. Is a bit short. OK, but does not grab me. 13.5°. To 2014. March 2011