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The Wines

100% Roussanne (2007) from sandy, clay-limestone small galet stone covered soils on Les Chassis, southern zone, wild yeasts, steel vat fermented, raised 6 months (before mid-2010s raised 50% resin vat, 50% 5-year old 600-litre oak casks 8-10 months), S02 only applied after press and before bottling, fined, filtered, organic wine, 1,500-3,000 b

2018

full yellow robe; the bouquet is a sturdy do, weighs in above welter weight, its scale setting it up for richly flavoured dishes. It’s on brioche, with a note of greengage and melted butter, and needs decanting. The palate links well, gives a broad mass of ripe white fruited content, is bendy and curved towards the finish. This is scaled wine, close to sipping status, carries grapey, insistent flavours, its texture thick. There is a minor thread of carbonic gas perking up the palate. It could be very interesting around 2023. 12°. 100% Roussanne. €20. From mid-2020. 2030-32 Nov 2019

2017

very solid, full yellow colour. The bouquet is full of jungle fruit, pineapple with lychees, camomile tea from nearer home. It’s an ample start. The palate is rich and rolling, provides splendid drinking, its smooth texture an asset from start to finish. The aftertaste is honeyed, with a bout of apricot juice there. It’s right on the go now. 13°. 100% Roussanne. 2021-22 Dec 2018

2016 ()

glistening yellow robe; has a subdued, discreetly rich nose that offers quince notably, white plum airs. The palate holds easy gras richness, a flavour of apricot, a little spice. It’s a supple wine that ends gently, a touch floral, gives neat drinking, is fresh and precise with a trim body. 12.5°. €14.80. To 2020 Dec 2018

2015 ()

full yellow colour. The bouquet gives airs of flan, cooked lemon, has the grapey strength of 2015. The palate gives a peach, cooked white plum flavour, is wrapped into a compact, manly ball. It has a dash of freshness towards the finish, some spearmint kick on the close. It combines body and freshness very successfully, will be great with turkey, poulet (chicken) de Bresse. Decanting a good idea. 13°. 3,000 b. €14.50. From spring 2017. 2024-26 Oct 2016

2013 ()

deep yellow colour. This has a reductive nose, so it needs decanting to rid it of that high pong. The bouquet also has a nutty, corporal aspect to it, stewed banana and some human sweat. The palate suggests Roussanne in its suave texture, and a floral nuanced flavour of white fruits. There is fine late acidity beyond the glycerol. It is a vin naturel, so lies off the main track. It has the body for white meats, perhaps Comté or Tomme cheese from Savoie. 13°. €14.50 at the cellars. 2019-20  Jan 2015

2012 ()

full yellow; has a liqueur fruit air, almost opulent, a product of very ripe crop, a mandarin-tangerine presence, also aniseed de Marseille. The palate is rather glutinous, so this is hard to drink freely. A residual sugar game has been played here. Decant it, but also leave it one year to see how it pans out – will it loosen? I can somehow understand later harvesting to mask any lightness in the Roussanne juice from its young vines. 13°. To 2018. £17.50 Vinoteca, GB.  Nov 2013

2011

2 bottles tasted: pronounced yellow, fat aspect. Buttery aroma, a hint of lime, also a fungal note, hazelnut. A little dumb. The palate has a rich coating, is smoothly textured, suited to Asiatic dishes and the “awkward squad” – artichokes, cardoons. Has decent width at the end, is savoury there, and ends on peanut paste and tilleul (linden) tea. The 1st bottle was less focused and defined than this. 12.5°. 2016-17  Nov 2012

2010

(vat/cask, bottling this month) full yellow; oaked, souped-up bouquet that shows barley sugar and lemon pie, cooked pear – it is copious in style with notes of glazed brown sugar – ripeness has been accentuated here. The palate gets off to a fat start, more on volume than elegance; it has plenty of fat, with some tang in and restraint towards the finish. What you get today is what it is – it`s a bit static, and will not change much. Food a must. I suspect it is low on acidity. The length is OK, and it shows refinement late on. Drink with pork, for instance. To 2015 Nov 2011