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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne (1944-45), 0-10% Roussanne from sand-lime clay soils on Les Diognières, planting density 6,000 per hectare, fermented, raised 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 10-11 months on its fine lees, malo completed, filtered, 800-1,100 b

2018 ()

solid yellow colour; the bouquet has an air of flan, oaking, is ripe, has a custard, apricot filling, good shimmer about it. The palate is stylish, immediately engaging, helped by its suave texture and calm flow of white fruits, with notes of white raisin, petrol along its path. There discreet floral touches which a delicacy to proceedings, a winsome bonus from them. 13°. From 2022. 2036-38 Nov 2019

2017

fine yellow robe; the nose has quiet style, presents a cooked citrus opening, brioche bread, orange zest, ginger snap. It has been made for freshness rather than fat. The palate is also on the wire, pared back in nature. There’s a glinting run of cool citrus fruit, with notes of apricot and vanilla, toasting from the oak. It lacks the richness I would associate with Hermitage blanc, is New Wave. There’s nothing technically wrong with it, but it lacks interest. 13.5°. From mid-2019. 2032-34 Dec 2018

2015

yellow robe, with sheen. The nose shows reduction, so decant this. It has a plump centre, parading ripe peach with a buttery infill, a note of drizzled lime. It’s a solid start, has lift, and this will live well. The palate works on strength, with a very good filling of dried fruits, cooked fruits. It carries well to a complete finish. This is STGT Hermitage blanc, saddled up for the long term and a grand companion for classic French cuisine. It’s really thorough and compelling, with no false charms. From 2019. 2034-38 Oct 2016

2014

fine yellow robe. The bouquet has a salty, open nature, rides along with apricot, flan aromas, ginger snap. The palate comes in a New Wave style, is tidy and floats along with just a little depth on the second half. I find this an arm’s length white Hermitage – it doesn’t properly engage. There are lime, cooked citrus touches as it finishes. Decanting may obtain a little more. 13.2°. 900 b. 100% Marsanne. 2026-28  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

shiny yellow, legs down the robe. Has a reserved but promising nose: greengage, fruit tart aroma, a note of tobacco, camomile, stem ginger. The palate starts freshly, offers sleek white plum fruit, damson, and has a knuckle of late tannic grip. The finish is airborne over grounded, as elegance has been sought, slightly to the detriment of true local depth – Marsanne with wings clipped. 13.5°. 100% Marsanne.  2029-32  Jan 2015

2012

fine yellow robe; appealing, salty touches and a fragrant little pocket of white fruit in the bouquet – it evokes spring flowers, rustling grasses. This is finely crafted Hermitage: the shape is upright over round, but the filling is present, and it has enough to give a round, well sustained and calm invitation. It shows the finesse of Hermitage blanc, also its inherent and stylish richness when mature vines are involved. It holds up well. From spring 2015. 13.45°. 100% Marsanne, 800 b. 2026-28 Nov 2013

2011 ()

pale yellow. Smoky, gunflint air, a snappy lemon or citrus note behind. It is not especially profound, and coasts along gently with an floral air of honeysuckle. The palate is medium-weight, shows fair elegance, then moves on to a lime stretch after the mid-point, a saline, tangy contribution. The attack sets off on hazelnut, the fruit resembles pear late on. Marks for purity – this is fine and precisely presented. A light touch Hermitage blanc. From late 2014. 14°. 2024-26  Nov 2012

2010

fine yellow. Flint-vanilla, appealingly soft nose, all very discreet but well underpinned. It shows hazelnut and honey in light orchestration, a glisten of pear fruit with them. Excellent debut to the palate, which steps up a gear from the nose into a rich, partly fat, textured being. This is long on style, has good balance and length. It ends roundly – thanks to a honeyed, toasted, apricot jam ensemble. It is not far off ready, and has the precise 2010 qualities and bonny balance. Tasty wine – even its oak is tasty thanks to its envelope of gras richness. From late 2012. 14°. 2026-28 Nov 2011

2008

light yellow. Waxen nose – typical Marsanne, along with softer airs including peach, flowers. The palate shows the reserve of the domaine, its depth shows gradually, then its length. Oak touches at the end. Fine wine. Delicate and attractive. From spring 2011. 2022-24 €24. Dec 2009

2007

pale robe; reserved, appealing bouquet that mixes honey, pear, flowers and citrus airs; it also comes with a nice float of hazelnut. The palate has a good, tight weave, though it isn`t especially full – its nature is on the sinew, and it tightens towards the finish, showing a salty, tangy note there. Correct length. It is a wee bit tame, but in its defence, it has been recently bottled. Can become stylish and interesting around 2013 onwards, so is marked on its future potential. From late 2010. 2020-23 Dec 2008, 2 different tastings

2006 ()

pale robe; pear, with some aniseed comes through on the nose – with greengage, white plums also. This is cleanly made wine, a little escapist – I would expect more stuffing. Is elegant, but a bit limited in horizon. May be more interesting during its second phase, around 2012-13. It works as an aromatic wine, but the palate is low-key. Has a spiced aftertaste. Not a rich year here. 2021-23 Dec 2007

2004

pale yellow. Ample, bonny nose, a good mix of apricot, spice, flan/caramel - plenty for all tastes. Rolled up, reserved palate. Elegant and continuous in a low key on palate. Nutty, Marsanne flavour, has a prominent finale of nut and sherry. Good character, very broad wine. STGT wine. From 2009-10. 2023-25 April 2006

2002

obvious oak, toasted top bouquet. Oaked palate, some richness, oiliness within. Fair apricot, exotic length, dried fruits aftertaste. Not especially full. 2006 on. 2013-14