Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

1970s Viognier from sanded granite soils at Condrieu/Chavanay, fermented, raised 50-70% steel vat, 30-50% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 10-12 months (before early 2010s was 50% oak (10% new), 50% vat 8 months), malo completed, filtered, 6-6,700 b

2016

shiny yellow robe. This has a pear-apricot air, good buzz, a mineral leaning, comes with a tender curve, a small note of fennel, vanilla, notably cool touches. The palate holds gentle richness, drinks tastily, is fleshy, up for fine fish, cheese. It is very enjoyable, charming. It is lightly perfumed, ends towards orange peel, a neat clarity, precision. 13°. 2024-25 Mar 2018

2014 ()

fine, clear yellow robe. This has an airborne nose, up in the clouds, white strawberry, pear and lime scent on the breeze. The palate presents a white peach, apricot flavour, gathers a little depth as it goes. There is a smudge of tannin on the finish. New Wave Condrieu. OK with steamed fish, lighter flavours. 13°. 6,000 b. €35. To 2018  Oct 2015   

2013

fine yellow. The nose is attractive, refined, comes with pear fruit in the front rank, has a floating quality, shows overt toasting and lime and citrus influences. The palate is also fine, drinks as an aperitif, en finesse, runs quietly to the finish. New, metropolitan school of Condrieu with a soft finish and apparent oak. 13°. €35. 6,000 b. To 2019  Jan 2015

2012

pale yellow; cooked pear aroma with an earthy side. Camomile and vanilla, verveine (verbena) infused tea airs add extra depth, a wee note of licorice. The palate has good body, a nicely thorough flavour led by quince, pear, has a tangy note. This ends clearly with rather robust content, suiting it to mushroom sauces on pork or veal, also truffled potatoes, for instance. Good, traditional Condrieu. Has dark, wee spirity notions at the end which align it for la table, that little rigour will set it up well. 13.5°. 2018-19  Nov 2013  Previously May 2013 ***(*) shiny, pale yellow, green tints. The bouquet is fresh at first, shows an aroma of pear jam, wax, has appealing depth and is very expressive. The palate gives a typical taste of pear fruit, also tangerine, orange marmalade and peach jam flavours. Very elegant, has an open appeal. It ends quietly and firmly, the length sound. This will flourish in 2014. Appealing Condrieu. 13.5°, 34 hl/ha crop, against 12.5° and a record crop of 40 hl/ha in 2011. 2017-18  May 2013

2011 ()

shiny yellow, some green in it. The nose is low-key, already settling into a second stage, shows vanilla and wax foremost, a minor spicing. The palate floats, glides, lacks real depth, bears white fruits, floral touches, buttercup flowers. The finish is subdued, tame. I reckon it is in transition now, away from its first youth. “It is fine, elegant, but lacks a bit of expression. Full ripeness was difficult to achieve this year – the vines simply couldn’t offer more, even after we had waited,” Gilles Barge. A record crop of 40 hl/ha has also diluted it. 12.5°. To 2016. May 2013

2010

pale yellow, light green smudges. The bouquet is wide, has a smoky, fennel base, melted butter here – it is rather fine and genuine, holds a nice mineral top air. Good, typical palate. There is pear flavouring with richness that is not static, reaches out well to the finish, all grouped together – STGT, veritable Condrieu. It gives quite a robust aperitif, or drink with steamed fish, and Japanese cuisine would great avec. It drinks now. 13.5°. To 2015 Nov 2011

2008

pale yellow; broad, stylish nose led by flan, crème patisserie fat airs, lightly spiced. The palate has a tight grip, its matter reserved – green apple, hazelnut flavours. Tight wine, could be more generous. 13.5°. 2013. July 2010

2007 ()

elegant nose, soft banana aroma with a tiny bit of spice, smoke, cashew nut, and a very final air of brioche. The aromas linger. The palate has a grounded nature – this is a full, busty wine that is sympa, authentic with true Viognier on the finish. The end is firm and assured. 13.8°. To 2012. Dec 2008

2006

even yellow colour; the bouquet has a little supple air, with some honey, maybe melted honey – it is a low-key affair. The palate tastes of golden syrup, with some apricot and white fruit jam present. It manages to last the course with some assurance, unlike many this year. There is a little late roundness, and a note of some clarity as well. Pear traces on the aftertaste, this is better than most 2006s. Best if drunk in the short-term. 13.5°. To 2010. Jan 2008 Previously June 2007 ***(*) wide, generous nose, mostly pear with a buttery backdrop – very bonny. Quite a full, robust wine, with some late punch on the palate. Holds a sound heart, but is not as full-on as the 2005. Esp from Oct 2007. About 13.8°. Bottled two weeks ago. “This will be at its best from the spring of 2008,” Julien Barge. June 2007

2005 ()

1) (cask, 13.5°, pre-malo) ***(*) cooked banana, soft and reserved aroma. Direct start to palate, then gains weight. A lot of fruit and width, and well-defined fatness. Interesting future ahead. 2) (steel vat, 14.5°) ***(*) peach, apricot and overt pear aromas, nose is wide and deep. Nice width on palate, good length, flavour like pear skin, apricot. Good power, not excessive. 4 gm of sugar still to go. 3) (new oak, 14.5°) *** honey-tangerine aromas. Dried apricots, rich with a clean, decisive end. All above 2005s, tasted April 2006 "I find Condrieu 2005 less aromatic than the 2004," Gilles Barge

2004

mineral-tinted bouquet, reserved, has a sprinkle of honey and pear. Sinewed texture, has the reserve and structure of the best 2004 Condrieus. Flavour is dried fruits, then a more vanilla-flan finale. Nice subtlety on finish, more out and about from 2007. Clean-cut, with attractive weight. To 2011-12 Previously March 2005 ***(*) (pre-bottle, pre-malo) appley aroma, some richness within. Stylish, good bone on palate, is tightly-knit. White fruits here, length good. Persists, is agreeable, good finish of dried fruits, apricot. Clear-cut, too. To 2011-12

2002 ()

decent aroma; nice richness, has flesh and cut, too.

2001 ()

elegant, flinty pear/mineral bouquet; tasty palate - touch of exotic and stewed pear fruit, good attack. Good grip, ends with mineral touches.

2000

soft bouquet, discreet. Hides its alcohol well, could have more flesh.

1998 ()

well-balanced, expressive bouquet. Good flesh on palate, shows well. Quite stylish