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The Wines

100% Roussanne (1995) from 0.3 hectare on sanded granite soils on Pitrou north of village of St-Jean-de-Muzols, Pitrou their name after old owner, is L’Echirol on the map, made when Sept/Oct are fine eg 2000, 2001, 2003, fermented, raised used 600-litre oak casks 11-12 months, malo completed, best decanted, “it is typified by its extravagant aromas”, 2,000 b

2019

(used 600-litre cask) yellow-green tinted robe; the nose is sunny, smoky, elegant, fat, on white fruits. The palate is juicy, inviting, has a good, safe mid-palate, cards on the table, white peach and apricot. Sun has absorbed into this, similar to its effect on Les Bessards at Hermitage, Saint-Épine at Saint-Joseph nearby. Its gras is measured, trim. 11 years Nov 2019

2018

open five days: full yellow. Quince, wax, nuts, salt – there are varied prompts on the nose. This is rumbustious, layered, a lot of glycerol in the engine room, comes with savoury, oily tendencies, thick juice central to it, the essence of white fruits, nut and apricot in the flavour. It’s long and substantial, something of a one-off in style, no Superhighway here. It doesn’t surprise me to learn that it’s 15.5°. It will be one for Escoffier-inspired, sauced dishes. There’s light tannic grip at the end. Decant it, and no hurry to drink it, either, you can be patient. 2035-37 Nov 2019

2015

(used 600-litre oak cask, still fermenting, another 12-15 gm of sugar to go) this is 15.5°! full yellow robe. Nuts, lime and peach show on the nose, which is broad. This is robust, big and profound wine, holds plenty of gras. There is a thick coating of content, and it is destined to be drunk with Vieille France, sauced dishes. “Pitrou is always aromatic, very smoked when young,” François Ribo. 11 years  Dec 2015

2014

bright yellow robe. This has a graceful, bonny bouquet, real good class, optimo. It shows tobacco, salt, peach and apricot, and has more dance in its step than a Marsanne bouquet. The palate starts freshly and directly, combines fine acidity with the most elegant gras richness, and hands out fine droplets of flavour, a smoky surround to its white fruits, peach notes. The finale is fresh, gives a good kick. This is a real rocker, a wine of great precision. 12.5°. 2,000 b. 2020-21 Dec 2015

2003 ()

(cask) ripe bouquet - plenty of depth - damp wool and melted butter in an unusual combination. Solid but quite graceful on palate. Chunky but refined also. Dried fruit skins taste. Esp from 2005. 2010-12

2000 ()

gold/apricot colour, with fizzy aspect in the robe. Orange, bergamot, wide bouquet that mixes in licorice along with the spritz, is interesting. The palate has a live, on the acidity nature, but does have lots of body, a depth that is suited to cèpes (wild mushrooms, in season now, but served with no garlic), also cauliflower crème and terrine of black pudding (boudin). Good length. Out of the loop, but good. 2014-15 Oct 2010 Previously *** really oily, full bouquet. Nicely fat on the palate, good length, warm. Exotic fruit touches here.