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The Wines

from 5 plots at Beaumont-Monteux (southern zone, on Les Bosquets late 1980s, 1999 & Pichères 1982, 1985, 1990, 1993 Syrah), 80% destemmed, crop cooled at 15°C 5-6 days, 10-12 day vinification, 2-4 pumping overs per week, aged 5-10% new, 90-95% 1-4 year ex-Burgundy 228-litre oak casks 11 months, then 3 months tronconic oak vat, not touched from November to September, unfined, filtered, 37,000 b

2018 ()

dark red; has a nicely toned blackberry, stylish aroma, a hint of reduction, neat fruits, a note of black olives. The shape is round, the centre plump, with mulled black fruits, some floral perfume around it. The finish is close-knit, with a change in the texture to grainy notes. From autumn 2020 to allow it to open its fruit more. It’s a good, live do. 14.1°. Bottled Dec 2019. 2025-26 Feb 2020 Previously Dec 2018 ***(*) 1) (new 15 hl barrel, bottling Aug 2019) dark robe. Much toasting on the nose, some green oak, with varnish. Cassis-blackberry fruit comes in a good line at its centre. The palate bears slinky style fruit with live black berries, a supple gras flanked by breeze, freshness. 8 years 2) (used 228-litre cask) ***(*) dark red; the nose has an air of raspberry fruit with some delicacy, is neat, shows reduction. The palate gives open and free flow fruit, has charm, drinks very easily, is w.o.w. wine, the close neat and softly round. This has Pinot associations, keeps going, too, with some late extra content. 7 years Dec 2018

2017

bottled today: dark red; cassis, smoky blackberry fruit airs come out openly on the nose, which is on the go, lingers well. The palate has a southern leaning, shows black olives, racy fruit with oak-caramel, lasts on squeezy, careful gras richness. This will drink well and freely, holds more stuffing than the equinoxe Crozes 2017. The fruit and the oak need 12 months to meld, notably on the finish. It can reach ****. 2029-30 Dec 2018

2016

regular red robe; The bouquet comes with cassis-blueberry, cool fruit, good streams of clarity, a hint of red meat. There’s good sparkle in the palate fruit, with vivacity and always clean lines, ends on detail; there are appealing floral notes also. This is fine and detailed. Most attractive. It holds very bonny fruit. 13°. 2027-29 Dec 2018 Previously Nov 2017 ***(*) bottled yesterday: red robe. Has an open-fronted nose that shows a raspberry coulis, mulberry thickness aroma – it is concentrated. The palate is showy, in the instant now, comes with a red fruits gras centre, then leans into more pebbly tannins. It has sound heart. It isn’t yet fully together, is still rather raw. The finish is tight, on the rocks. It needs to lengthen its fruit, but can do that once it has settled into its new home. 13°. 2022-23 Nov 2017

2015 ()

(new large barrel) harvested 11-13 Sept. dark red robe. The nose is sturdy, has a thorough aroma of red fruit. The palate is brightly fruited, comes with lots of life, is going well and clearly. A wine of good brio. 6 years. 13.3°. Oct 2015

2014

(40 hl tronconic oak vat, bottling next month) sound red robe. Has a curvy, openly fruited nose, blackberry on parade, light airs of flowers. This gives tasty fruit, is really easy, quite sweet. It doesn’t have great body, but drinks well. The exit is clear. Aromatic wine that lasts quietly. To 2018  Oct 2015

2013

quite a dark red. Blackberry coulis depth of aroma on the nose, which also shows a pretty floral trail, all comes in a rounded setting. Peppery, live red fruit runs through this; it ends cautiously, tones down. Has dentelle, toothsome cut. It isn’t quite all as one. There is a tar, dark chocolate flavour on the aftertaste. 13°. From 2016. 2020-21 GB £144/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Feb 2015

2012 ()

rather pale red. Has a mulberry liqueur air, a coulis style to the fruit. Has a smoky, hickory barbecue smokiness about it. There is a flavour of crushed red berries, with a live edging on the palate; fair depth here, but it is a wine that seems on the back foot. It is a bit narrow, almost mean, and ends on oak firmness. The length is decent. 13°. £135 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2019-20  Nov 2014 Previously Nov 2013 **** (racked Sept, then 3 months in tronconic oak vat, bottling in 3 weeks) attractive dark red. The nose gives a free air of blackberry and cassis with smoke in a pure nose. The palate bears snappy fruit, has a quiet grip, runs well after half way, the second half nice and stable. This grips on the finish, where there is a violet note. Once finished, it will provide free drinking. I like its Burgundian potential to gain over time. Good spring in its step, w.o.w. wine. From September 2014. To 2019. Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2012 ***(*) (cask, sugars, malo completed, on its lees since it was sulphured) good, attractive red. The nose is sympa, has nice depth, holds up well, shows a good, bright cherry fruit. The palate rocks along; there is good drive in the fruit, has an appealing, crunchy fruit that is expressive. It ends on a steady, firm tannin. It is more profound, especially at the end, than 2011. Lively wine, with depth as well. To 2019.  Nov 2012

2011

quite dark red; sizzled bacon, lively cassis fruit in an open, up front, lightly mineral setting on the nose. The palate gives an immediate strike of black berry, more offered early on than late. It is a bit simple, drifts towards the finish having attacked well. Best with grills. The ending is quite supple. 13°. To 2018  Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2012 *** (bottling in 19 days, 23 Nov 2012) dark, shiny robe, good depth. Has a closed, nutty air, raspberry fruit at its centre. The palate gives bright, giving red fruit – this is a good ensemble, and it lengthens on that fruit. Can be drunk solo. It builds a tarry finish, is attractive. “We worked on a soft extraction this year, and also wanted a soft texture. We had the largest yield in our history – 44 hl/ha,” Maxime Graillot. 13°. 2017.  Nov 2012

2010 ()

(racked Sept 2011, malo done in cask, now concrete vat, bottling in 2 weeks) bright, dark red; has a soft air, refined, reticent cherry style fruit present. The palate holds a good, close connection to the nose, moves along discreetly, is a more floating wine than the 2009 of his father Alain. The flavour is supple red berry, the destemmed crop influencing its texture, so that it lacks the provocation of the whole bunch wine of his dad. Nice, gentle drinking over 5 to 7 years, the balance is sound. Shows fine late tannin. From late 2012 – it will then be more complete and round on the finish. 2018. Nov 2011 Previously Nov 2010 ***(*) (used cask, sugar and malo done already, 1999 Syrah) bright dark red, violet tints. Chunky, nutty nose, chocolate, toffee notes. Solid, complete palate that persists. Good for 10 year vines (they are massale, or hand grafted). Cherry, red jam flavour. (2 year cask, 1982 Syrah) sustained nose, soaked black cherries. Bright early palate fruit – it is wide, sound, ends on gras richness, signs off roundly. 2016-17 Nov 2010

2009

(vat, pre-bottling) bright, consistent red robe. Very attractive nose that is really full of life and charm; it holds slightly smoky black fruit, is precise and welcoming. The palate is a gourmand, juicy affair, lengthens well, has substance, but keeps moving. Great red cherry fruit in this, and it gains well in matter, depth and tannin towards the finish, the fruit lasting well. Classy, very drinkable Crozes of good balance. 2018-19 “Acidity and freshness, and the quality of the tannins were my two concerns when working with 2009. I was very careful on my extractions, and went carefully, not seeking to go to a maximum,” Max Graillot. Nov 2010

2008 ()

fair red robe; reserved nose, some black fruit-spice, olive airs – the black fruit resembles blueberries. There is quiet charm in the nose, which can liberate itself. Spicy, perfumed palate that drinks soundly, though not especially deeply. The length is fine. Firm late notes – I would decant this. From mid-late 2011. It needs to free up the finish which is gummy for now. “If you get the pepper out of it, you will release the floral notes,” Max Graillot. To 2016 or so. Has improved. Nov 2010 Previously March 2009 **(*) 2 casks tasted: (3 year cask) *(*) OK red; light pepper air above red fruits. The merit of the palate is its clarity – the red fruit with a little spice trim. Drinkable, early wine. Will be bottled end November, exiting the oak in September 2009. (2nd 3 year cask) **(*) light colour; quite red fruits, redcurrants aroma with mint present. The palate is peppery – this goes zipping along, but the length is OK. A stand up and drink wine, from spring 2010. To 2013. March 2009

2007

shiny, full red robe; has a very southern zone aroma – olives, prunes, floral notes. The palate is really elegant, bathed in soft fruit – it all comes en rondeur and is easy to drink. The texture is soft, and this shows Burgundian influence in the winemaking. w.o.w. wine. To 2011. March 2009

2006 ()

pretty, full red; the red fruit aroma is like a gummy fruit – fruit gums; it persists and mixes strawberry and flowers, too. There is a mix of toffee and red cherry fruit that keeps going well on the palate. Good length – just shows a little late tar, burn. Decant this – there is a note of reduction on the nose and that would also serve to soften the finish. A graceful, unforced style of Crozes-Hermitage. It is a bit closed at the end just now. 2014-16 March 2009

2005

might be two cuvées this year - plenty of fruit, with noticeable tannins. Black fruits with pepper trimming, substance in the wine. 13° this year. From mid-2007. "2005 holds a more complete balance than 2004." M.G. Dec 2005 15,000 b this year

2004

bright, raspberry colour. Ripe berry fruit with some spring in its step - loganberry, raspberry coulis. Rounded fruit but some kick in it, clear cut, the fruit lasts well. "passe bien" wine, fun to drink. A little end tannin for structure, and some gum fruit late on. Barbecues and informality suit. 2008 "I was careful not to extract too much in 2004, and I filtered this." M.G. Dec 2005 2004 Previously (cask) *** pretty robe; bouquet fruit is appealing, direct, clear-cut Syrah with some substance. Sound fruit on palate, broadens after first flush, very clean. Keeps going, length correct. Early style of wine. 2011 aged in 1-5 year ex-Burgundy casks for 12 months 8,000 b Dec 2004