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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne, 0-10% Roussanne of 1950s/1960s from loess and granite soils on Les Blancs at Gervans, northern zone, cool 48 hrs decantation at 10°C, fermented 15-25 days in 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks at up to 20-21°C, lees stirred for 1 month, then raised 50-90% steel vat (vat % is rising), 10-50% 2-4 year 228-litre oak casks 7 months (until 2004 was 12 months all vat), malo completed, filtered, 8-10,000 b

2017

(casks) steady yellow robe; the nose is fat but not showing a lot today, carries a well set richness. There are peach, apricot, honey, smoky hints, but you have to search them out. The palate is firm, close-knit, has a nutty flavour with a backdrop of infused tea that resembles camomile. The finish has definite grip. This is table-friendly, traditional Crozes blanc with a thread of iron nerve through it, suggesting the northern sector [tasted blind]. It will be good with halibut, monkfish, sea bass in fennel. Decanting advised, and leave it late-2019 at the earliest. 2028-30 Dec 2019

2015 ()

(vat, sugars, malo completed) clear yellow robe. Pear, pear skin, lime airs on the nose, which dances well. The texture on the palate is appealing; it glides well, develops nuttiness and extra grip and foundation at the end. This is stylish and long, has a nice delicacy. 13.2°. 2021-22 Dec 2015

2014 ()

yellow, rather cloudy robe. Apricot, greengage plum aromas show on the nose, with an air of roasted hazelnut as well. The palate is good and sparky; it delivers dried fruits with low-key tannin. It lengthens and grips, ending neatly. The flavour centres on quince, nuts. This is gentle, true wine. 13°. 90% steel vat raised. To 2020 Dec 2015

2013

quite a full yellow. Has a very good, traditional bouquet – full of old Marsanne fat, a white fruit jelly air, peach, a hint of anis de Marseille and nuts. The palate is full, shapely, savoury. It has a flan, crème patisserie, slightly white raisin flavour, vanilla also from its oak. Bring on the Vieille France, Escoffier dishes and their sauces! Poulet de Bresse en crème, turbot in a champagne sauce, guinea fowl with grapes, as well as dried cod, lobster, any amount of choices, to say nothing of Vietnamese cuisine. STGT wine. A proper do, on the heels of a white Hermitage. This and the Marc Sorrel Crozes blancs are classic examples of ace traditional white Crozes from old vines in the northern sector. 13°. 90% Mars, 10% Rouss. 10,000 b. €7.60 export.  2022-24  Jan 2015

2012

quite a full yellow. The nose is still reserved, has an elderberry aroma and a near petrol influence. The palate is knit together, sealed, has the weight for more, a second stage, a more mature showing to accompany white meats, truffle dishes – there are lots of food options. It persists steadily, shows notes of infused tea, peach on the finish. There is wee tannic grip, a late moment of white truffle. From spring 2015. 8,000 b. 13°. 100% Marsanne. €19.25. 2022-23  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(casks) sturdy yellow. Has a coated aroma led by cooked pear and quince fruit, a light trail of vanilla and pineapple, with lurking airs of nougat and hazelnut. The palate spreads widely – this is a scaled Crozes of dimension. It has strength, a secure depth, is a good, traditional wine suited to veal, sauced fish such as sea bass and daurade. It ends on aniseed, licorice, a small petrol note. Decant it. It can live and evolve. From spring 2014. 2022-23  Nov 2012

2010

pale yellow, oily aspect. This has a lovely bouquet which is fine and tempting, with honey and nut in it, a really graceful air. The palate leads on supple white fruits, while there is honey present in the flavour, a good pockets of gras which persists to the finish. A wine of precise virtues, good length. There is a typical nutty- apricot Marsanne sign-off. Delicate, but well-filled, and has a very hand made feel. A good vintage here. Bottled 30 June, 2011. 2015-16 Nov 2011

2006 ()

yellow robe with lime glints. Has a nice, baked apple, also pineapple aroma; it lacks a little zest. The palate is buttery, rounded – this supplies facile drinking. The flavour is hazelnut, the grip late on good. Floral nature late in the day – this is a sympa wine that mixes richness and the “bitter” of the Marsanne in a true fashion. To 2013. March 2009 Previously Dec 2007 **(*) subdued yellow colour; mandarin aroma with wee spice and floral notes. The palate has grip, is quite closed in, but there is richness within. The acidity at the end is correct, and ends brightly on a tone of typical Marsanne bitter and clarity. This has character. To 2010-11. “This should be kept a bit longer – for 6 to 12 months – for it to show more openly,” Laurent Habrard, Jan 2008.

2005 ()

deep yellow; aroma isn`t stable – almost a bit volatile: shows dates, cooked banana, cardboard. Round shape to palate, but no real “moment” here – passes by on the outside. The fruit is ripe, with an oxidative tone towards the finish. Early drinking because of its low acidity and style. Honest but flawed. 2008-09 Dec 2006

2003 ()

??? I can`t understand this - March 2005 - bouquet is medium-weight, but rather green apple. Acidic palate, disagreeable. Previously *** floral, with latent fat on bouquet. Nicely rich, chewy palate, almonds there, sound width, pretty fullness. Some end alcohol. 2010-11on this showing today

2002

fleshed white fruits, crème patisserie bouquet, rounded. White fruit/flan combo, nicely knit with good mid-palate. Nice fresh end, pretty.

2000

quietly rich white fruit skins nose; quite tender, nicely chewy white fruit, peach, flavour. Stylish, touch end spice.

1999

pretty, restrained bouquet. Good, controlled texture, clear-cut, more delicate than the plain wines, a squeeze of richness. Good length, correct, dryish end.

1998

floral, rounded nose; quietly full, with structure. Oil/honey end, has grip, shows off the granite. Can age, evolve better than the whites off the plain.