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The Wines

80-98% Marsanne, 2-20% Roussanne (Roussanne rising from 2%) from sandy-lime soils at Gervans, fermented, raised 15-20% new, 80-85% 3-4 year 600-litre with some 300-litre oak casks 5 months (reduced from 8-11 months in late 2010s), malo blocked, 3,000-3,800 b

2017

yellow robe. Has a nicely alert nose that gives pear with apricot, white peach, is soft, has a wee mineral presence. The palate’s flavour of dried fruits, quince plum, is very typical of Crozes blanc from the northern sector – it has that little mineral theme, is floral, a refined and beau vin that ends quietly and calmly, is rounded on the close. This carries fine acidity, is of interest. 13°. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. 2023-24 Nov 2018

2016

clear yellow robe. Has a good, lively bouquet – lemon zest, honey, acacia flowers, a waft of ginger. It is very clear and well defined. The palate is also clear and very stylish, with a trim richness throughout, leading to a rounded, soft, squeezy, long finish. This has a pinpoint accuracy of flavour, is elegant with a freshness that encourages a second sip. It can serve as an aperitif, with saucisson on the side, or will go well with steamed fish, noodle dishes. 13°. 2021-22 Nov 2017

2012 ()

pale yellow; elderberry, lightly spiced, orange zest airs in a tidy bouquet, with aniseed and ginger notes, southern touches. The palate is harmonious, offers suave gras, and continues with an agreeable wave that is smoothly textured. It isn’t yet firing on its flavours, which resemble low-key peach and quince, and the nose is currently more open. Promising, best suited to la table, traditional Crozes. Decant this. From mid-2014. 13°. 3,000 b. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011

(casks) steady yellow. Exotic fruits, mango-pineapple, come bounding out of the bouquet with a trail of honeycomb. The palate has a nice, rich start; this is genuine, good Crozes blanc that has stature, and is suited to food. It bears its terroir well, is STGT wine, and reflects the northern zone well. There are apricot and peach in its flavour, and a nougat note. Tasty wine, and great with roast chicken, sweetbreads, Vieille France cuisine – a proper sit-down wine. Really good white Crozes. From late 2013. 2020-21  Nov 2012

2010 ()

(bottling in two weeks) pale yellow; lime, honey, butter airs in an appealing bouquet that has commendably pure notes, salty droplets here. The palate is laced with gras, never in excess, all very well sequenced. It has a citrus, apricot fruit finish, and is suited better to foods than the aperitif. A good example of white Crozes. Fine acidity and freshness are very typical 2010 features. It signs off on light honey notes. From May 2012. To 2017 Nov 2011

2008 ()

(casks) yellow; the nose not quite clear – hazelnut, cardboard, dusty, a bit of butter. Creamy style flavour, with a pushy late area, candy, fruit cake, tangerine notes. A little on the power. Has quite a chewy sign-off, a little more grip there. 2012-13 Dec 2009

2007

even depth yellow; fruit on the turn aroma – the nose is a touch pungent, shows lime and butterscotch, bonbon sweets, high tone. Full, ample palate – it runs openly, reveals white raisin, vanilla flavours late on, gives a tingle of hazelnut, then honey. It drinks securely now, and is best with food, even wild spices and white meats. Has some power and weight, is a low acidity, traditional wine that is just a bit short on the finish. 2010-11 Dec 2008

2006

mild yellow robe; bonbon-varnish notes on the nose, a little hazelnut, straw, boiled sweets, the fruit being pear and apricot. The palate carries cooked white fruits in the taste, laced with a trim of spice. It ends with some attitude, heat. It is a touch enforced, but has good late Marsanne typicity – pretty genuine touch of grip and mild bitter. The length is OK. 13°. To 2011. Jan 2008

2005 ()

pretty pale yellow; salty, wee bit edgy bouquet – fresh-toned, with white plum, spice and hazelnut – pretty typical Marsanne here. Low profile palate, work in progress wine: some nuttiness of flavour, and nice end chewiness, plus honey on the aftertaste. They have sought to make a fresh, more accessible wine than usual, it would appear. From late spring 2007. To 2010. Dec 2006

2004 ()

peach, floral bouquet that is open and sympathique. Nice fruit content on palate, with some full flavoured dried fruits that are expressive. Length is good, and has a little of the usual Marsanne bitter at the end. Bottled June 2005. 2010-11 Feb 2006 Previously March 2005 (cask) *** green apple, floral hints on bouquet - will settle and become more nutty. Palate is rich, a calm wine with good length. Rolls along well, good Marsanne expression. Bit abrupt at end, offers easy drinking. March 2005

2003 ()

yellow traces on robe; subdued, ripe fruit bouquet. Full style, Marsanne allowed to run wild (well, is 2003). Plenty of flavour and texture, with nice end grip. Traditional, complete wine. 2013-15