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The Wines

40-65% Marsanne (1993), 35-60% Roussanne (2004) from galet stone clay-limestone soils on Mercurol, Larnage, Beaumont-Monteux, Pont de l’Isère, machine harvested, varieties fermented apart, raised 80% 400-litre oak casks (33% new, 33% 1-year, 33% 2-year), 20% vat 9 months, the two varieties assembled before bottling (mid-2000s to early 2010s was new oak cask fermented, raised 9-10 months), malo completed, filtered, “drink with steamed scallops, trout in almonds”, 4-6,000 b

2017

bright, full yellow robe. The bouquet is cautious, has a bright cooked lime air, with some solid toasting in behind from its oak, a note of orange and liquid honey. The palate is compact, well centred, carries a citrus flavour with notes of herbal tea in its wake, and smoky grip on the finish. It’s moving into shape with a sure step, is structured, and suited to la table. It ends on a note of carbonic gas. 14°. From mid-2019. 2028-29 Dec 2018

2015 (Roussanne in magnum)

this is also called Signature, is 100% Roussanne (2004 from Les Grappiats at Mercurol), comes in magnum. It is fermented in 400-litre oak cask: full yellow. White fruit jelly, guava, flan, aniseed – the nose has southern drifts. The palate holds cosy gras richness, a real ball of supple content. It extends with a snug, round texture. It cam emerge further, is closed. It’s very joli, a beau vin. 13.5°. 2026-27 Oct 2016

2015 ()

yellow robe. The aroma is rounded, gives white peach, light hazelnut, dried fruits, white strawberry – it’s an authentic bouquet. The palate bears early supple gras richness, with some tannic lining, apricot and vanilla. This drinks easily thanks to its texture. There is quiet grip on the finish. It sustains well, has Marsanne tang. 14°. 65% Mars, 35% Rouss. To 2020 Oct 2016

2013 ()

a magnum: yellow robe. Has a nicely ample air led by orange marmalade, shows toasted oak and a nice salinity. The palate weight is agreeable, grips soundly, Marsanne in the hot seat on the finish. it has developed a line of licorice, carries the relative tenderness of the Roussanne at its centre, then the Marsanne comes long. This has a plump heart, and the length is fresh. 134°. 2019-20 Oct 2015

2012 ()

some full yellow notes in the robe. There is an incipient glow, not quite as strong as power, on the bouquet that has buttery, oaked surrounds. It is nutty, and not especially fruited today. The palate is compact, rather well packed, a wine for la table: chicken, fish terrine, red mullet (rouget) – it can take that sort of depth of flavour. Decant it to coax out more, is a wine on gras over fruit. It keeps going OK. 13°. 40% Mars, 60% Rouss. 4,000 b. €9.50 ex cellars, £25 McKinley Vintners GB, US$32 Wine Wine Situation CA 90048. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2010

yellow, quite full robe. Oily, ripe, honey and cooked pear aroma that bears definite bounty and ample features, plus pineapple and oak. The palate commences on that fat implied from the nose, is abundantly wide, and suited to rich flavours – lobster or spiced Asian dishes or Japanese ramen dishes, noodles. Also into mind come chicken, scallops, celery – the fat would ping into the last-named. Has sound acidity to keep it in motion. Has early get up and go features. This approaches a minor Hermitage blanc in texture this year. The finish is clear and round. 13°. 2018. Nov 2011

2009 ()

yellow, some gold in it. Wide but not yet really free bouquet, shows apricot fruit, is fat and vanilla-like, the fruit is ripe: a sturdy, fat debut. The palate is nice and well made, at present sealed in on its power that ticks over. The second half is broad. Not yet expressive, but has enough matter to offer enjoyment from 2011 onwards. Fine late grip and acidity bode well. Decant this. Food best. 12.8°, oh really. 2014-15 July 2010

2006

steady yellow robe; has a buttery, butterscotch aroma – there is melted butter in the vanguard, also some lime – it is an elegant offering. Low-key roundness marks the palate – it is already a wine to drink, skewed towards low acidity. The finale is quite clear. There is a degree of richness and a flavour of white peach. The length is OK, and Marsanne typicity comes through there. 13.5°. 2009-10. Jan 2008

2002

rather sweet nose; fair roundness on palate, easy wine.