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The Wines

Syrah (1980s, inc 1950s) from alluvial soils on Les Saviaux at southern sector La Roche-de-Glun, 2 day pre-fermentation crop cooling, 3 week vinification at up to 28-30°C, cap punchings, pumping overs, aged 12 months in 20-30% new, 70-80% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks, malo completed in oak, filtered, 6-9,000 b

2018

(casks) dark robe; the bouquet has a soaked fruits sweetness, is ample, close to lush. The palate flows with a steady run of black cherry and cassis fruits, keeps going well, with a hint of mineral towards the finish, which helps its definition. Its fruit runs liberally and well, and it has the balance to come together - drink from 2022. It has a tarry aftertaste. 2030-32 Nov 2019

2017

(casks) shiny dark red, black robe. The nose is on oak sweetness, the oak not overpowering, the dark red berry fruit present refined and for now in the second tier. The palate holds elegant fruit and content flanked by the oak, has a little floral coolness in its delivery, the oak prevailing on the finish. It doesn’t need this amount of oaking, since the content is refined, the fruit clear – the oak is in the way. From 2021. 2031-33 Dec 2018

2015 ()

(casks) the robe is dark, black-tinted. The nose centres on oak with stylish, well seated black berry fruit beyond it. There is an air of serenity about it. The palate is amply juiced, with the oak absorbing into its main frame. The finish is long, rounded, with a toffee note from the oak. This has style, quiet authority, is a polished wine, one of the serious Crozes 2015s, for drinking à table. 14°. 6,000 b. €30 at the cellars. From late 2018. 2027-29 Oct 2016

2014

(casks) dark red. The nose has a smoky, oak inflected aroma, a supple aroma of black berry fruit at its heart, some herbes de Provence. The palate is flashy, leads on easy swirls of black cherry fruit, with a dusting of grainy, oak-led tannins. The second half poses questions, and oak lies beyond its content. Time is needed to bring a fusion. The drop off of fruit on the finish is a concern vis-à-vis its raising. Less oak required. From 2017. 2021-22  Oct 2015   

2013

(casks) dark red, black-purple tints in the robe. Oak is implicit on the nose, so there is a nutty effect, with the centre based on soaked black cherries, a note of smoked bacon. This is a good bouquet that will vary. The palate has ways to go: it is very much in the hands of its casks now; within there lies pretty fine pedigree fruit. The content is wide enough at halfway for it to show potential. The cellar is on top for now. €30 at the cellars. From mid-2017. 2024-26 Jan 2015

2012 ()

(casks, bottling March 2014) shiny dark robe; the nose has a reserved elegance, shows fine dark fruit, a soft black cherry, is understated, gives a cool, licorice note also. A promising bouquet, plenty to come. The palate pursues the cool theme also: it holds precise, clear blueberry fruit with a constant clarity. Polished, airborne Crozes that could have a little more depth in the late palate, but works well. It is the equivalent of a natty dresser, is cool throughout, agreeable and straightforward. It may gain a little weight. From late 2014. 13°. 2020-21  Nov 2013

2011

(casks, bottling March 2013) healthy dark robe; has an interesting aroma, a good, mixed bouquet – it has roasted, grilled airs, light violet and mocha, with a successful blackberry heart  - this is a pedigree start. This is stylish, classy, is a balanced wine without excess. The tannins are fine grain. Good finesse here, the black fruit pure and aromatic. It could lengthen more on its fruit. From 2014-15 to allow greater length. 13°. 2022-24  Nov 2012

2010

dark red, healthy robe. Smoky, fired up black berry air with a touch of black leather, along with licorice and toffee notes – this is set to become complex. The palate offers fine, crunchy content with snap through it. The fruit is mature in style, an oily red stone fruit. The finish rests on pine and spice. Not an obvious Crozes, also subdued today. It has smoky,  hidden corners, is upright and granular, with spots of gras, not joined up ones, as it stands now. 13°. From spring 2014.  2023-25  Nov 2012  Previously May 2012 ***(*) fair red; has a peppery first air, with smoked, cedar style airs, blackberry fruit in behind, a nuance of flowers. The palate is mildly scented, though it misses a beat in its matter, lacks a real gras at its core. Made to last over the longer term, I suspect. There is a fine circle of red berry fruit on the finish, so the length is correct. It needs time and will be harmonious around 2014. 2020-22 May 2012 Previously June 2011 ***(*) (casks, is about to be racked for first time since Oct 2010) quite dark robe, legs down the glass. Leesy, reductive, dense nose that shows a sweet ripeness. The palate has richness with a bite of late tannin, and oak moments. Smoothly textured, ends clearly and with good snap. From mid-2013. 2023-25 June 2011

2009

pretty full red; smoky top air, blackberry-blackcurrant undertone, has a fine nature, a near delicacy in the fruit. The palate also runs along fine fruit and texture, moves on a rolling front, the red berry fruit seasoned with cumin, spice that culminate in grainy late moments. A cool soils style wine, one that is upright more than bendy. Fine length, has late game notes after its ample mid-palate. STGT wine. 13°. From 2013. 2020-22 June 2011 Previously Nov 2010 ****(*) (casks) pretty full dark red; blackberry, slightly oily but fine, subtle bouquet that is set to develop well, comes with violet and tea notions. Instant line of shapely black fruit on the palate – has tannic siding all along it, and is a “superior” Crozes in its scope and aspiration. Not a wine to drink young. The black fruit is clear-cut, and runs into grainy moments supplied by its mainly ripe tannins and some oak on the finish. Its herbal notes there only appear in very ripe years. Good quality fruit, and a clear finish: another example of this excellent Crozes vintage. From mid-2013. 2022-25 Nov 2010

2007

quite sustained red robe; bacon fat, subtly generous, soft nose – it mixes a mild chocolate air with smoky blackberry; there is some oak here. There is an immediate offer of fleshy, gourmand fruit on the palate, comes with a giving texture. The fruit has been ripely cropped, adding to the fleshy nature. Oak plays a late role. Not really together yet: I sense it is a bit made by numbers. Red berry, perfumato moments on the finish. Their Grands Chemins Crozes is a more direct wine. From late 2010. 13°. To 2016. Nov 2009 Previously Dec 2008 **(*) full, quite bright dark red, black traces. The bouquet holds up well – gives sleek black fruit aromas, with cherry at its heart, along with raisin and then a nutty air from its oak, smoke and pepper. The palate black fruit is a bit taut – there is an edge in it, a firmness from the oak. The sleek style of fruit reflects a cap punching vinification. At least the oak isn`t leaving a burnt, charcoal flavour at the end, like many. There is only just enough matter for its oak. To 2016 Dec 2008

2006 ()

dark-toned robe; ripe berry aroma – mulled red fruits, with some restraint. Berry fruits are overtaken by a definite oak clamp on the palate, but there is richness to handle the oak. Right now the oak serves to straighten the wine towards the finish. The first half of the palate is savoury, and well-textured. A wine that leans towards the plush, but doesn't go all the way, thankfully. Ends clearly. From late 2009. 2019-21 Jan 2008

2005

black plum robe; mulberry and plum fruits lead the bouquet, with some oak behind, and a touch of very ripe red cherries. There is a hint of forest and earth in it also, a fundamental air. The palate red fruits have a ripe nature that renders them almost liqueur, certainly mulled on the palate. Has definite, sound acidity and open spaces. I like its possibilities and potential to vary as it ages. Ends clearly, preceded by some classic soaked black cherry griottes. Beau vin. From 2009. 12.5°. 2018-19 Jan 2008 Previously Dec 2006 ***(*) ripe, plush, scented aroma with a little mint and a pebbly air, too. The palate is gourmand, has nice full fruit without excess. Possesses some structured tannins for the future, and a little mineral flash late on. Rich, savoury wine. Has some STGT characteristics. From late 2008. 2015-17 Dec 2006

2004 ()

evolving red with a light top. Softly harmonious nose that shows fine red fruit, has a “young” maturity. Smoky bacon airs here with discreetly plump black cherry fruit within. Bouquet has a nice airy quality. The palate has an intense core, a grainy, nutty style, and is fresh on the finish. A fresh, lithe wine, with grainy features and clear fruit. The flavour is dark, like charcoal-tar, with its rather steely black fruit. A fragrant, oaked wine that is fine. The finale is slightly abrupt. To 2018. Feb 2011

2003 ()

(cask) oiled, very knit nose, ripe fruit notably, potential. Big, broad black fruit, some mineral thread through it. Rich to the end, good tannic surge. Lot of quality, texture will delight. Slow wait wine, lasts well. 2008 on. 2019-22

1999

nicely dark robe; tight berry, smoky affiliation on the nose – creamy black fruit, caramel edging, road tar – a typical mix of southern sector aromas. Varied, sinewed fruits on the palate – their energy is very unlike southern Crozes Syrah – there is more tension in the make-up than the Chênes Verts area near Graillot, for instance. Very correct composition and balance. A mix of tar and jam fruit on the finish. A beau, structured wine. Great with roast grouse. 2017-19 Oct 2005 Previously **** compact, ripe red/black fruits, tar, some animal aroma; full, with still some dry, upright touches. Blackberry/pepper end. The gras mixes with leathery/meaty side. From 2007-08. 2017-18

1998 ()

sappy, overt, almost Pinot-style nose; tasty red fruit attack, then throttles back. Cool black end flavour, liquorice. Great with autumn food. Esp 2003-07. 2014-16

1997 ()

called Clos St Georges fruit/pepper on nose, can develop; gourmand, fat style from Les Chassis, squelchy black fruit. Tight early on, fair density, with tannins floating well. 2005-08

1996

called Clos St Georges: expressive, garden fruit bouquet; supple attack then nicely chewy middle. Fat, ripe crop aspect in its texture, dries towards the end. Decent. 2005-07