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The Wines

from northern sector villages, (2006 onwards, some southern sector Marsanne from Mauves), 80-100% Marsanne, 0-20% Roussanne, from 2005 10-20% new oak, 80-90% vat fermented (all vat before), raised 8 months, filtered, 2-20,000 b

2018

yellow robe; the nose combines a buttery element with vanilla, dried fruits, apricot, tangerine. carries 2018 vintage weight, is table more than aperitif wine. The palate bears a close-knit assembly of white fruits, a little spicing, hasn’t yet really sorted its second half. Its delivery is low-key. There is a semblance of tannin on the finish, which renders it suitable for pork, white meat dishes, soft cheese. 14°. €23. From spring 2020. 2028-29 Nov 2019

2017 ()

firm yellow robe; the nose is upfront, a good opening, rests on honeycomb, ginger, apricot, a pretty classic display of Marsanne. The palate is more subdued, but carries good content, comes with a flavour of nectarine, a note of pineapple. It ends with trim gras, nice depth there. There are cool notes through it, a touch of spearmint as it ends. This is good, accurate St Jo blanc, leans towards New Wave, but the sunshine of the year has prevailed over the paring back. 13°5. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. 2026-28 Dec 2018

2015 ()

shiny, fine yellow robe. Ginger and vanilla combine on the front nose, with a backing of apricot, lime, nuts. The palate is a gentle affair, with a squeezy gras richness, a neat plumpness in it. There are mild lemon notes on the finish, with honeysuckle flowers drifting nicely. It holds together well, and drinks well now. 13°. 2,000 b. €22 at the cellars. 100% Marsanne. To 2020 Oct 2016

2014 ()

yellow robe. The nose is subdued, but has a sound presence. You have to seek it out, rather than vice-versa. A hint of peach, white plum, spring flowers, perhaps. The palate holds white fruits just on the “high” side, and finishes with a little tannic thrust. It isn’t yet as one, leaves a dumb impression, so leave until spring 2017 for more wares on show. It is just a bit insipid as it stands. 13°. 6,000 b. 100% Marsanne. €18 at the cellars. 20% oak, 80% vat. 2021-22  Oct 2015 

2012 ()

pale robe. Flint, fresh top air but there is depth in the bouquet, shows Marsanne bite and bitter, the zest of orange and lemon: it is rather stripped back, a raw version of Marsanne, as if the crop could have been riper. The attack favours freshness over gras and content. This is easy to drink, marked by the bite combined from the Marsanne and the granite. It ends on a salty, hazelnut note. Overall, it is a bit wired – it isn’t quite an aperitif wine, not quite a full table wine. It drifts on the finish. From mid-2014. 13°. To 2019.  Nov 2013

2011 ()

2 bottles tasted, 1st bottle is dusty. Bottle 2: shiny, attractive yellow. Has a bonny nose – mixes greengage, light honey, stone fruits, verbena tea. This is a low-key palate today, has a modest level of gras and nuance, is a bit plain, does the job. A little vanilla, honey, white plum on the aftertaste. Correct enough, but fails to inspire. 13°. 2017. 8,000 b this year. Nov 2012

2010

yellow-tinted, rather rich aspect. Light toast-oak air, dried white fruits, salt-nutty moments. The attack is richly textured – that gras richness continues, and is well-implanted. The flavouring is apricot-peach. Suited to foods more than aperitif drinking, good with chicken, pasta dishes. Shows a salty note towards the finish. Good length, very sound, very good Marsanne expression. 13.5°. 2019-20  June 2011

2009

pale yellow, hay colour; varnish, pear drop first nose that is a bit mechanical – there is crispness here, but it is contrived. The palate is similar – holds steely white fruit, lacks a true moment of pause or comfort. About OK for the aperitif, but is dull. 13°. To 2013-14 July 2010

2007

steady yellow robe; buttery, broad nose pepped up by white pepper, some spice – the fruit is apricot, and even with some high tone, it has an elegant air. The palate is a big affair, and compact, with late power evident. Has a flan, grounded flavour, with honey in the late taste, and grip on the finish. A steady operator with a firm core. I note that it is 14.5°. Certainly up to food. To 2012-13. Dec 2008

2006

some yellow in the robe; has a honey and also near Riesling petrol nature in the aroma, a wee hint of alcohol lurking within, and some flowers that bring a gentle air. This is a wine of some impact early on: it gains a buttery, prolonged finale, almost has a tannic structure towards the finish, after its honeyed burst of flavour. Pretty good length, that is based around its fullness rather than any vivacity. Clear finish. Is a touch heady, though great with food. 14°. 2014-16 Jan 2008

2005

buttery, hazelnut nose – interesting grip and definition. Peach, dried fruits, vanilla flavour, with some mineral and direction. A structured wine, not loose, and ends quite richly. More open from spring 2007. 2013-15 Dec 2006

2004 ()

quite firm yellow. Restrained, honeyed bouquet - not out and about just now. Apricot flavour, becomes nutty towards the finish. Holds middle flesh, is pretty expressive. Good length, ideal for refined foods. Clean, quite mineral end. 2011-12 April 2006

2003

fresh edge on bouquet, crème caramel, flan within. Buttery, easy wine, some nuttiness and length. Lowish acidity, clean drink, best before 2007.

2002

mild white fruit/bonbon aroma. Honey/baked apple flavour, little short. Some minted tones. Food wine. 2006-08

2001 ()

full, peach/butter nose, some mineral; fat, aromatic flavour, white fruit, refined, typical. Good finish. Esp 2004 on.