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The Wines

65% from Chanson, 25% Boissey (range 1982-98), 10% Les Eyguets, fermented, raised 67% new 600-litre oak casks, 33% 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 18 months (up from 11 months), lees stirred, malo completed, Chanson name since 2007, slim bottle, 10,000 b

2018

(cask) firm yellow colour; the bouquet has an aroma of flan, vanilla, apricot juice, is close-knit, sun-filled. The palate is muscular, carries intensity in its mixed fruits, glazed fruits, with a swirl of orange marmalade and glow towards the finish. It’s a little on the heat of the summer. There is a note of carbonic gas that lifts the second half. It goes long, with gusto, no holding back. It’s suited to Vieille France cuisine, Asiatic, spiced dishes, has personality. It will live, and evolve with interest, so keep some back. Decant it. 14.5. €35.50. 2027-29 Nov 2019

2016

1) (600-litre cask, before racking, bottling Apr 2018) yellow robe. The nose is striking because it’s elegant and clear, comes with well-judged depth, is careful even. White fruits, lime cordial, spring flowers airs hover for now, with toasting. The palate rolls richly and evenly, with fat that has a strike of good heart and silky moments, nectarine and dried fruits flavour and grip towards the finish. This is very good, a slow evolution Condrieu. 2027-28 2) (600-litre cask, racked) **** has a neat pear, with apricot aroma. The palate is well sealed, has definite depth and nerve, manly content, the close firm. The length is good. There’s a good stream of fruit here. 2026-27 Mar 2018

2015

shiny yellow robe. The nose is careful, starting to show via nectarine, light pineapple, orange peel, orange blossom, little dabs of freshness from them. The palate is compact, not expressive, has a near red wine form. It ends with a sure gras richness, layered and firm. Its texture pleases, and the citrus touches after half way extend it well. The flavour runs around white plum, toasting, ginger. Decant it since it’s not open on the second half. 14°. Bottled April 2017. 2026-27 Mar 2018

2014 ()

(casks, bottling April 2016) fine yellow robe. Has a graceful, rounded bouquet, pear fruit prominent, Poire William, and a second note of apricot. This is beau, stylish, reserved: it has good clarity and precision, a relative delicacy, ending freshly with rather dainty acidity. It is nicely linear, mineral, and will unfurl gradually, much as I expect from Chanson. For now it is tight. There is excellent detail and purity here. 14°. 2023-24  Oct 2015

2013

pale yellow robe. The nose is shapely, gives an air of cooked lemon and apricot, a plump flan aroma, vanilla pod. The palate’s early richness derives from the small crop, but it still bears the Chanson clarity and attractive mineral grip. The texture is coated: it is a fleshy but clear wine, with the finish toasted but notably clear. “Flowering was poor, we lost 25%, and our yield was only 30 hl/ha,” Stéphane Montez. 14°. 2021-22 Oct 2015

2012

rather full yellow with an apricot tint. Has a broad, rather big capacity aroma that centres on pear, peach eau de vie, also light banana flambé notes, mandarin: a big, mixed bag here. This is rich, oaked, full, is a Big Production. It ends on a firm, complete note, the oak very evident. There are rolls of fat fruit in it, and it is a luscious Condrieu to be served in a large glass with lobster, foie gras. Show Biz wine. Take your time. From spring 2015. 2019-21 Nov 2013

2011 ()

pear-tinted yellow. The bouquet leads on mandarin, followed by a note of banana in a nicely ample setting, with white raisin adding extra depth. There is also a fresh strike of lime and lemon compote. The palate is broad; its main attribute is a consistent line of mineral, a fine run of acidity that keeps its moving freely and in a prolonged way. This leads to a verbena, spearmint, licorice aftertaste which id full of interest. The palate’s involvement with quince, ginger, smoke or cordite is typical of Chanson. Lots of appeal and provocation if you spend time thinking about it. There is a flash of good toast oak on the aftertaste. Like a good racehorse, this keeps finding more when asked to go and win the race. 2021-22  Nov 2012

2010 ()

medium yellow; has a ripe, near overripe air of jam, fruit tart – the nose is wide, but not that closely defined. Its style is full. The palate has a rich debut, with hazelnut bite to help its clarity; as it goes, it gains more mineral inflection. Rather high octane wine that has absorbed its oak largely, but for now is more on the cellar than the terroir and its precision. Decant, also leave until 2014. 14°. 2020-22  Oct 2012

2006 ()

pale yellow; bright, rather candy aroma – fruit tart, pear and banana here. The palate taste is an authentic pear, and comes with grip and cohesion. This can evolve, has reserves of matter in it. The length is correct, but the fruit stops a bit early. It is a little mainstream, the finish is rather abrupt. From 2009 for more togetherness. 14°. 2011-12 June 2008

2005

bright, yellow colour; soft, buttery aroma of plum and some spice, with smoke and a little lime. Even flow on the palate – stone fruits, a little apricot, is an easy runner. Has nice grain and sides with decent grip. Sound, without flair, but has good probity. 14°. To 2009. Back label recommends drinking with foie gras, salmon, red mullet, goat’s cheese. Nov 2006

2004 ()

varnish, damp wool mix on bouquet, overall effect of mineral, with oak hints. Attractive, effortless fruit, shows spiced pear skin flavour, some greengage on aftertaste. Enclosed by a mineral coating. More expressive and exuberant around 2007. Clean, clear finish. Probably made from younger Viognier vines - detectable from the slight lack of roundness. 2010-12 April 2006

2003

subdued aroma - light honey, pear skin, toast fro m its oak. Palate more mineral than voluptuous. Oaked influence is followed by a honeyed presence, also violets. Oak means it should be left until 2006. Wait and see, but should be rich enough to integrate.

2002

pretty, expressive bouquet - lychee, peach syrup. Drinks well now, nice and supple. Fat and warm, then narrows down, some saltiness towards finish. In transition now. Dec 2004

2001

overt oak with light pear aroma; more oak integration here, quite tasty in an obvious way. Full, ripe style; fat, rather heady/hot ending.

2000 ()

clean, light sweets/lime tart, buttery bouquet. Exotic fruits, pineapple chunks, potent wine, attacks strongly. Oaked aftertaste. Does well with air.

1999 ()

sappy, evolving nose - lime tart, citrus variety. Quite rich, full, nearly heavy wine. Pear skin, ends broadly but touch drily.