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The Wines

from 5 sites, notably Les Eyguets & Boissey (Chavanay), Sous l'Eglise & Chauramond (St-Michel), Le Tinal (Vérin), Viognier av age mid 1990s, fermented, raised 25% new, 75% 1-2 year oak casks (half 228-litre, half 600-litre) 11 months, lees stirred, first wine 1999, 20,000 b

2018 ()

rather full yellow; the bouquet is weighted, gives a swirl of tropical fruits, passion fruit, pineapple, oak, has inner depth. The palate is thickly textured, carries rich content, has a ground strength along its way. It ends with a dense set of white fruits, apricot to the fore, with a note of power on the aftertaste. It’s very much à table Condrieu, with vigour and somewhat raw persistence. It can settle further, so leave until mid-2020. 14°. €29.50. 2025-26 Nov 2019

2017

good, regular yellow robe. Nicely broad aroma, mixes up citrus fruits with pear, aniseed, is accomplished and elegant, has a note of tobacco. The palate runs well, delivers good fresh length, something of a rarity this year, and has lift to render it enjoyable and second glass material. There is spicing in its white fruits, and the aftertaste clean tones is a bonus. The oaking has been well conducted here. 13°. To 2021-22 Sept 2018

2016

yellow, wee green tints in the robe. The nose is lively – there is a good bounding out of tropical fruits, guava, apricot, good variety. The palate issues a flavour of dried fruits, white peach a touch of camomile, with a discreet increase in grip. It’s not quite yet together – there are flashes here and there during the palate, not all joined up. This is interesting, varied. 13°. Bottled Sept 2017. From 2019. 2025-26 Mar 2018

2015 ()

has a thickening yellow robe. The nose is moving into sultry zones, cooked fig, peach jam, grape essence, a tad of ginger. The palate delivers thick, rich content; as a 2015, it doesn’t have the 2016 brio. The couch is firm, sealed up. It has a virile style, is wine for la table: it will accompany sauced dishes. It could be more charming. Waiting will help it – if you do that, drink from mid-2019. Decanting advised. 13°. 2023-24 Mar 2018

2014 ()

pale yellow. Creamy, apricot-fruited, ripe nectarine aroma show on the nose, a light lime and mandarin-mineral clarity, a note of infused tea. This is a neat Condrieu, with low-key supple gras richness, quiet length, late restraint. It has a flavour of stone fruit such as peach near the stone, a touch of aniseed. 14°. 2019-20  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale yellow robe. Has an overt, stewed peach, compote of white fruits aroma, a note of banana, aniseed. This is stylish, all together in its rounded, fleshy way. It drinks elegantly, with the body for turbot, poultry. It is graceful all through the palate, with nudges of lime. It chimes a nice bell. There is light reduction, so decant it. 14°. To 2020  Oct 2015

2012 ()

yellow colour. Has a calm, aromatic nose with a pear, white strawberry, apricot assembly, toasting form its oak. It has a little restraint, and is typical southern zone Condrieu that favours fat over mineral influences. The palate offers a rich, stone fruit core, with wispy oak toasting on the later stages; it isn’t quite as one yet. The texture is smooth; it drops a little after its first flourish on the palate. There is a good, tiny late salt and aniseed marking. Chicken, pork dishes suited. 14°. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011

yellow robe; oak toast air, with a live mineral clarity, zest of orange, leaves an extended vanilla trail. This is a big, broad, muscular bouquet. The palate is agreeably full, provides a good, clear strike of rolled up gras richness. Dried fruit such as apricot as well as walnut appear on the finale. The finish is solid, bang on the mark for fish terrine, cheese, pork. There is a bonny spot of Bergamot on the aftertaste. Full wine, good grip. Decant it. 14°. 2021-22 Dec 2013  Previously Oct 2012 ***(*) yellow tints in the robe; supple, agreeable fat air of pear, white strawberry jam, floral airs such as acacia. The palate wraps itself tightly, is a rolled up wine post-bottling; the flavour brings in spice and vanilla, brioche bread. There is a strong finish, late power, and a taste of glazed fruits, white fruit jam. A note of tannin and oak shows up on the aftertaste. From mid-2013. 13.88°. Decant this. Bottled last month. 2020-22  Oct 2012

2010

mild yellow, lots of legs. Pear, flan aroma in what is a reserved nose, has a light air of tangerine. The palate has savoury notes, with a fine texture, is nicely cosy. The peach fruit on the finish has snap, just a little oak. Better balance than the 2010 Chanson; it extends with good purpose. The finish brings in pear and pineapple, a liqueur touch, and is round. 14°. 2019-20  Oct 2012

2009 ()

(casks) cloudy, pear colour; baked pear, Poire William and nutty aroma, tight acidity with it, and airs of baked brioche, toast, flan and banana. The palate is firm, reflects coven cooked apple, is not yielding now. There is plenty here, needs refining. Good, fine, peppery finish. From mid-2011. 2016-17 July 2010

2007 ()

its mild yellow colour is coming along. Bonbon, pear fruit tart feature in a round bouquet that is maturing steadily, encompasses mandarin fruit, scented Chinese tea. The palate has a nutty undertow, the flavour of cooked banana and brioche, on that comfortable setting. Oak still comes though on the aftertaste. Full, rather beefy Condrieu, can be decanted, and also waited for, from 2014. 2022-24  Oct 2012

2006 ()

full yellow, with gold glints and glycerol down the glass. Has a bonbon sweets, notably butterscotch aroma, barley sugar. Ripe crop is implied it. The palate is rich, with banana and exotic fruit touches in the flavour – this is full and out there. It is broad at the end, where there is a definite note of candy and toffee. A richly prepared, modern style of wine, one that will appeal to sweet tooth lovers – a wine best suited to food, including desserts. It ends roundly, and is good for this tricky Condrieu vintage, since it doesn't have the big heat of some of the wines. The aftertaste is dried fruits, raisin in flavour. Only 1.8 gm of residual sugar, note. 14°. To 2012. June 2008

2005

marked yellow colour; frisky, wide, bouncy, open nose, with ripe fruit, melted butter – an “out there”, punchy aroma that has a little salty trail behind it. Soft, buttery attack in a palate that isn`t especially flamboyant just now – shows white fruits with some mineral flecks. Grips at the end. A live style in the making here – this is a structured wine that will be classic in its gradual development along the palate. Plenty of wine here, gourmand – greengage and white plums with a chewy finale and a solid, almost orange marmalade aftertaste. 14°. 2011-12 Nov 2006

2000 ()

typical, full pear bouquet, good core; chewy pear flavours, lasts nicely. Oak integrates at end.