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The Wines

from 1983 and younger Viognier on on sandy granite soils on La Maraze at St-Michel, wild yeasts, fermented at 16°C, raised 33% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks (new oak used until early 2010s), 67% steel vat 10-13 months, malo completed, filtered, 5-6,000 b

2016

fine, pale yellow robe; the aroma is soft, on pear-aniseed, smoke, a compote of white fruits. The palate starts with control in its pear-apricot, has a fresh thread until late glow, the finish a bit on the outside. There are mandarin-orange notes towards the close. 14.5°. €24.50. To 2022 Dec 2018 Previously Nov 2017 ***(*) bright yellow robe. The nose mixes pear and apricot in a classic Condrieu duo, has a note of smoke. The palate is rich on the attack, bears a fat content with a flavour that strays into orange, citrus areas towards the finish, some apricot juice on the aftertaste. This has agreeable body, and will go well with sauced dishes, butter-based ones, Dover Sole Meunière right in the picture for it. To 2020 Nov 2017

2014

fair yellow robe. The nose bears a pear aroma with a glint of mineral freshness, a note of lime, some oak. The palate is supple, and runs with good consecutive purpose, a nicely fleshy content on offer. The compote of white fruits flavour will be suited to chicken in sauce, cod fish in parsley, soft cheese. It is sound Condrieu, without the flair of the leaders. 14.5°. 5,000 b. To 2018  Oct 2015 

2013

shiny yellow. Gives an exotic fruits first aroma, vanilla, nut, spice also; the nose is quite powerful, a bit square. The palate has a wavy richness, grips with a display of firmness, near burn, as it ends - the tannic sign-off of this vintage. Food will camouflage the finish, but be aware of that – it has a singed ending. 14°. 2018-19  Jan 2015

2011

pale, flinty robe. Floral-honeysuckle aroma, a lemon tart extra depth in behind, light vanilla and infused tea, pear drops. The palate displays a pear, apricot delicacy, aiming for a fresh, aperitif style. It is taut, and could have more body. The balance doesn’t seem 100%, and its acidity isn’t settled. Could have been harvested a day or two early, I think. 14°. To 2016  Nov 2012

2010 ()

pale yellow. Subtle pear aroma, pear skin, good and typical, is clear. Also typical Condrieu on the palate, no falseness. Has a flavour of pear-honey-apricot, enjoyable gras and a nicely fat texture, all running along smoothly. Good aperitif wine. There is some discreet weight and power within what is a pretty and true STGT wine. It ends on the firmness of the year for now, has nice length. Drinks now. 14.5°. To 2015. Nov 2011

2009 ()

yellow robe; full, supple, buttery and vanilla aroma, with a fresh top air. The palate is firm, presents a consistent run of flavour, a pear flavour that is solidly set. A food wine with in-built power and intent. It is a little stern, notably on the finish. 13.5°. To 2014. July 2010 Previously Nov 2009 **(*) (steel vat, sugars finished, malo not yet) big, broad nose in the making, pear aroma. The palate is bulky, rich, has sustained length, but also decent freshness. Its 15° is not evident. A grounded wine, suited to foods. 2014-15 Nov 2009

2008

pale robe; the nose is hard to catch – is that white stone fruit? – has high tone edges. Low key pear-pear skin flavour on the palate; it dips, then revives, ends on an oily, honeyed flourish. Pear drop on the end flavour. Bottled Aug 2009. €19. 2013-14 Nov 2009

2007 ()

full, mineral style aroma – pear comes out in pretty waves. The palate has good grip, led by a pear flavour. It ends clearly, a bit charged up there. The length is sound, and I like the chewy finish. Quite gutsy, good wine. 2012-13 March 2009

2005

off yellow, apricot tint to robe; crème brûlée, golden sugar style bouquet – baked white fruits such as pear tart, a copious affair. Round, compact and pretty full palate. Heats up a bit at the end, but has good grain. There is end heat, and the alcohol risks detaching itself from its current white stone fruit, pear flavour. There is mineral in with the low key richness. To 2008-09. 14.5° Nov 2006

2003 ()

brown sugar, pear bouquet, is warm and a little heavy. Dried fruits, assertive attack, pushy wine, but gets there. Tangy end with some grip, overall is wholesome. Length OK. Pretty good overall.

2002

yellow tints; pungent bouquet, agreeable, has fruit, flan mix, also oak. Palate a little out of sync - a glimpse of fruit, then oak, and a sugary content. Mixed bag, but has character and shows Viognier respect.

2001 ()

calm, buttery, light pear nose; tasty, refined, nice length and final richness. Slow-burn, fine wine - esp from mid-2004 so oak can meld.