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The Wines

mid-1970s Viognier on Verlieux at Chavanay, wild yeasts, steel vat fermented at 16°C, raised 1-4 year 225-litre oak casks 12 months, filtered, first wine 2004, wide bottle, 1,500-2,000 b

2017 ()

pale yellow; Has an oaky, smoky nose on cooked lemon, vanilla from the oak. The palate gives an elegant offer of pear fruit, white strawberry, has nice acidity. It continues into a refined close, is good and clear, a genuine Condrieu from the more southern zone of the appellation – floral without marked mineral, thus. 14.5°. €27.50. 2023-24 Dec 2018

2015 ()

(casks) fine yellow robe. The bouquet is pretty alert, bears an air of soft summer flowers with a vanilla and lime tang, a hint of pineapple ripeness. The palate is compact, rather sturdy, a sealed event for la table. The juice is tight, compressed, as if from grapes that had thick skins and little pulp. Decant this, and pair with sauced dishes, Asian cuisine. It ends firmly. 15.5° - wowee. 2,000 b. €24.50 export. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014 ()

simple yellow robe. The nose commences on apricot, peach fruit, is pretty tidy. The palate bears attractive gras with a line of freshness, leads to an aniseed sign-off, a little knuckle of grip, a small increase in weight. On the outside this is a delicate Condrieu with some charm, on the inner there is more depth and local stamp. It can be drunk as an aperitif. 14°. 2,000 b. To 2018  Oct 2015   

2013

good steady yellow. The nose is reserved, shows promise; there is a secure layer of white fruit and flan, a light note of mineral clarity, suggestive of old vines (tasted blind). The palate is harmonious, all ship shape, the richness soft and taking. The flavour resembles apricot, with a roasted hazelnut presence. The finish is enjoyable – there is a sign-off of fleshy, true Condrieu form, with a joli salty finishing touch. It hasn’t been overdone in the cellar, so is close to the vineyard. Very good. Drink with fish such as cod, sea bass, daurade, and wild mushroom dishes. 14.5°. 2,000 b. 2021-22  Jan 2015

2011

pale yellow. Spirity, white raisin air, nut-coconut. This shows a high octane style, has airs of pear and crème patisserie. The palate is assertive, with near scorched, oaked moments late on. There is a line of spirit, power, eau de vie through it that obstructs the pleasure. The ending is firm, butty, oaked. Alcohol renders this stern. Taut wine. Some power again on the aftertaste. Try from late 2013. Decant. Could be a bit better later in life, close up and personal with a rich dish, than early on.  2017-18  Nov 2012

2010 ()

(casks) pale yellow, legs down the glass. The aroma is locked away, works on several levels, and isn`t out yet. It involves honey-nut-toasted oak, vanilla pod. Creamy, flan style, cooked pear tart flavour with some aniseed to pep it up on the palate. The texture is silken in style. Good continuity along the palate, ends with well-judged weight. Nice and precise. Very good, classy. Decant. From mid-2012. 2018-19 Nov 2011

2009

pale, bright yellow; cooked pear, marked oak aroma which is a touch spirity, plum fruit also. The palate has a mix of firm fruit and solid matter from its raising, is oak infused. A wine of tight fabric. It ends CLUNK – bang, like many west bank 2009 white N Rhônes. The finish is clear, though. Needs food. To 2017. July 2010 80% oak, 20% vat this year

2008

pale yellow; well wrapped pear aroma, fruit tart, crystallised fruits with some gooseberry to add cut. The palate has a feel of richness, promises greater fruit and taste – it's not yet out of its shell, and is still on its tight, slightly alcoholic origin. A sit-down wine – food such as grilled fish, Asian cooking suited – plenty of choices. From late 2010. 13.5°. To 2014 Nov 2009

2007 ()

pale; cautious nose – honey, wax, pear sweets. This is a bulky, four-square do with the shape of a red wine. The aftertaste is heated, a touch of gasp there. Firm and heady, phenolic elements in it. “It is a bit more heady than the classic Condrieu,” Hervé Richard. To 2015. €22. Nov 2009

2004 ()

crisp, clear bouquet, the aroma floats nicely, there is mineral present to direct it and give it focus, floral and salt in the background. Interesting palate - has alight sprinkle of white fruits - greengage, pear. Is not very pushy or full, but has quiet angles and a clean shape. Good refinement, and a very good drink, especially as an aperitif. Quietly classy, showing well now, has character, is STGT. 2010-11 April 2006