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The Wines

95% Marsanne (1947, 1979), 5% Roussanne from Paradis and Saint-Joseph granite sites, a mix of 50-80 years, fermented, raised new (10%)-7 year oak 11 months, lees stirred, malo completed, first wine 1987, 4,000 b

2018 ()

yellow robe; the nose has an elderberry air, is charming, floats with some floral delicacy, which is an achievement in this hot vintage. The palate gives a ginger, dried fruits flavour, has discreet grip, and nicely extended length. Its coolness is appealing, and it ends on a little spearmint, infused herbal tea, a low-key richness. It can expand with time, and move past the oak on the late moments. Decant it to allow a little more late declaration. This will be good to drink around 2024 or so. 14°. From mid-2020 if you must, but it’s not a wine to drink young. 2030-32 Nov 2019

2017 ()

full yellow robe; the nose is very ripely fruited, on barley sugar, lemon curd and its thick sweetness, oaking, just a hint of cool. It’s a bit of a jumble, will get more together. The palate is rich and rolling, carries glycerol fat with a smoky tobacco close from the oak. The flavour groups around white peach, apricot juice. This has a big heart, and will live well, going great with scrambled eggs and black truffles, for example. The oak is being absorbed, and it carries primal appeal, has dashing length. It’s just on the retreat now, so come back in 2021. Decant it. 14°. 95% Marsanne, 5% Roussanne. 2033-35 Dec 2018

2016 ()

yellow robe. Orange peel, infused tea, lemon curd airs on the nose, salty top notes, grapiness. The palate combines joli fat with oak and toast tang, ginger from the Marsanne. This has good heart, goes well deep. The finish is firm, enclosed, still on its oak. Leave until 2020, since it will be more complex, varied and fulfilling with time. It’s sleekly done on the outer, with firm richness within. It has red wine strength, fullness. It will be great around 2022-25. 14°. 2031-33 Feb 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe. The nose gives an air of tobacco, peach stone, is assertive, direct. There is a nutty hover. The palate is tightly compressed, with the issue of compact juice, indicating the vintage strength. It achieves a cool finale, with aniseed notes there. It has a quiet authority. Decanting a good idea. 95% Mars, 5% Rouss. From spring 2017. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014 ()

full yellow robe. The bouquet show oak and its toasting, has a firm interior, a dense, pretty packed white fruits compote there. The palate is firm, with a spine that lends it something of a red wine profile. There is grip on the finish. This needs decanting to free itself. There is the potential to unfurl thanks to a fair depth of gras. For now it is a grippy, tight wine. 13.5°. From spring 2017. 2023-25  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

shiny yellow, legs. Damp wool, soaked white fruits aroma, a note of “high”, thus. The oak and its vanilla are forward on the nose, which has a stewed fruits interior, delivers hazelnut that is typical of the Marsanne as well. The palate starts on gras that is shapely and round, the oak then soon shows through. This has an apricot, peach signature at the end. It is a bit safe, rather than made with real passion – hence it is tidy, and pretty serene. The oak is infusing. 13.5°. From 2016. 2022-24  Jan 2015

2012

shiny, medium depth yellow colour, legs visible. The nose carries an air of agile toasting, the oak not overdone; this rides above a subtle couch of baked white fruits, flan, some nut and lime. The palate starts on the shapely gras richness typical of 2012, with a pitter-patter of walnut and almond through it, as well as some tang from the oak and Marsanne on the exit.Authentic StJo blanc. Dried fruits, apricots feature inside the nutty casing, also a tickle of aniseed. Accomplished white St Jo. 13.5°. 30 hl/ha. From 2015. 2022-23  Nov 2013

2011 ()

fair yellow robe. Oak leads the nose, which is poised, has a subtle couch of depth to offer more in the future. The palate starts on cooked white fruits, white strawberries, greengage plum. The oak theme picks up more, before it ends on an interesting mix of tea - tilleul infusion – nut, flint, a tang of aniseed. Has gras. It is hemmed in by its oak now. Decant this. Pretty robust. 14°. 2020-22  Nov 2012

2010

flinty yellow robe; The nose is refined – blends honey, hazelnut, brioche, hint of oak is quietly wide. There are baked notes in it. The palate starts softly, shows good Marsanne features – the brisk, pebbly note outside a ball of gras, a roundness of ripeness, a white raisin taste. Food such as hors d`oeuvres best for this. There is tingle of spice, a note of Marsanne bitter on the aftertaste. A long wine that is still making its way. Can be decanted. 14°. From spring 2012. 2018-19 Nov 2011

2009 ()

steady pale yellow; the nose has the depth of 2009, a honey, barley sugar, apricot air, oak involved as well. The palate glides along well. This is a wine of great texture appeal, and good balance – the texture shows grande finesse. Decant it to get more from it. Honey and hazelnut combine on the final stages. Once open a while, the Marsanne hazelnut air emerges that is very pure. Excellent length. 2020-22 Aug 2011 Previously July 2010 ***(*) rather full yellow robe; wide, big shoulders nose – weighty, brown sugar, barley sugar, has a glow of heat, an oily richness. The palate offers a foot down concentration – this has a firm, “whack in the chops” approach, a scaled-up style. Has a robust, slightly tannic ending. There is enough matter to fuse with its oak. Decant. 14°. 2017-19 July 2010

2008

spice and oak airs, along with dried white fruits. The palate has a firm constitution and serious matter, with oaking adding to its depth and tightness. From spring 2011, for instance. Good length, some late heat. There is good local feel inside its oak. 2019-20 July 2010 Previously Dec 2008 ***(*) (3 casks tasted) secure, comfortably wide aroma. Dried fruits, late substance on palate, length is OK – the 1947 Marsanne has a live bit rich interior, and persists. “We had to do a lot of discarding on the white crop this year,” Jérome Coursodon. Dec 2008

2007 ()

pale yellow, legs down the glass. Solid, broad, oaked nose – pineapple here also. The palate has a sweet, savoury nature – ripe crop used for this, by design. Tasty, good and rich wine that runs well, even if there is a slight late taper. Great with scallops or Coquille St Jacques. To 2014. Dec 2008

2006

mild yellow; there is a little oak in a dried fruits aroma – the oak traces across it. Is not yet really established – needs another 12-15 months. Holds a nice supple palate, with the oak running along its spine. Has richness either side of the oak, and a white raisin, honey-nut aftertaste as the Marsanne expresses itself. This has been made to live and evolve. Shows quiet persistence, and the balance is sound, like the raw materials. From autumn 2009 or 2010. 13.5°. 2017-19 Dec 2007

2005

yellow robe; melted butter, round style of bouquet, shows a sought-after ripeness from delayed harvesting. Palate is also buttery, with oak notes on the finish. Ripe, lower acidity style of wine for early, rounded drinking. The end is clean and rounded, but it stops a tad short. Gourmand, up front wine. To 2009. Dec 2006 Previously Dec 2005 **** (casks) early signs good here from various elements, inc 1956 Marsanne from Montagnon and 1950s Marsanne from St-Joseph: full, refined aromas. Notably elegant palate texture, balance good and deepest casks are fat and peppery. Dec 2005

2004

marked yellow tints. Oak, melted butter, toast on first row of the bouquet, lime-greengage behind. Pebbly, oak influenced start on palate, plenty of stylish richness. Works on overt fullness and has that, indeed. Round towards finish, good length, rich all the way through. In the 2004 mould, no excess fat. Esp 2007 on. 2010-12 June 2006 Previously Dec 2005 **** square shape to bouquet, shows spice and honey with a toasted backdrop from the oak. Front palate is fat and rich, it lengthens towards a buttery finale. Sit down wine, length is good. Nutty, oak mix on end, then a clear, mineral aftertaste. Bottled Sept 2005. "Eat white asparagus with this, monkfish in sauce or langoustines and then lobster when it's older, say five years on," Pierre Coursodon. Dec 2005 Previously March 2005 **** restrained, attractive bouquet, elegant shape. Really good feel to palate, stylish and refined. Good length. Some oak on finish. Beau vin. 2012-14

2003 ()

warm bouquet - bonbon sweets, brown sugar, Spanish flan. Chewy, full palate with oak on the fringes. Honey undertone. Full, yet restrained, too. Good length. Esp 2006 on. 2012-14 March 2005 Previously **** warm bouquet, fat and full. Nicely supple wine, palate is stylish. Length and balance both good.

2002

fruit tart, golden sugar aroma, fair width. Rounded, not very decisive flavour. Sugared fruit, has a fair middle, bit stretched at end.

2001 ()

pebbly, honeysuckle nose with stone fruit. Discreet palate, smoky white fruit, broadens, becomes like a fruit tart on finish. Fair amount of fat here, sympathique wine. 2010-11

2000 ()

apricots, dried fruits/spice nose, quite full. Good, rounded start - apricot/flan, a little banana on finish. Pretty soft wine, with good cut on the finish. Beau, is in healthy condition. 2012-13 Dec 2005

1999 No Rating

mild aroma, a little spice, dumb bouquet. Apricot/peach mix on palate, stops short, is moving towards oxidation - shouldn't be yet. December 2005

1998 ()

soft, melted butter bouquet, asparagus with a salted topping, at the portals of middle age. Palate also soft - reflects greengage, caramel, has grip. Mild peach/apricot fruit with spice, is very agreeable. 2012-14 Sept 2004 Previously (cask) **** lot of fat on bouquet, nicely full, really good content, and good length.

1997 ()

peach aroma on nose. Palate is buttery, well-filled, needs a bit of time.

1995 ()

subtle bouquet - citrus, pineapple, can emerge and widen with air and time. Really good, elegant start to palate, holds a refined, peachy flavour, nice salt presence on the finish, even though there isn't Roussanne here - old Marsanne can deliver that. Good bone and mineral, the flavour is firm. To 2018-20. Dec 2005

1989

praline, almond bouquet, light cheese aroma; light almond palate, reflects a sunny year, touch apricot, toast end. Evolves nicely, shortens after 90 minutes. Sept 2004