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The Wines

70-80% Marsanne, oldest 1971, 20-30% Roussanne, oldest 1983, av age for both 36 years, fermented, raised 10-50% vat, 20-75% new–4 year 550-litre oak casks, 15-25% new-4 year 228-litre oak casks 8-9 months, malo completed, fined, filtered, 11-14,000 b

2018 ()

attractive yellow robe, minor green glints. The nose is close-knit, shows a little grilling, with dried fruits airs, grape essence, ripe white peach, toasting. The attack is marked by carbonic gas - be ready for that: it is fine, has a cooked lemon flavour, with a steady stream of delivery, ending in a lip smacking finish. It’s slightly reserved, so decanting is suggested, and another few months won’t hurt, either. It finishes with sound grip, a hint of aniseed on the aftertaste. It’s very correct, just needs coaxing out. The length is assured. 13°. 70% Mars, 30% Rouss. €22. From spring 2020. 2027-29 Nov 2019

2017

healthy yellow robe; the bouquet is stylish, presents cool, lucid cooked citrus fruit airs, ginger from the Marsanne, tang in with its peach fruit, oak notes as well. The palate is expressive, just starting to show, has a dried fruits flavour, apricot essence, grips well, goes long and free. The aftertaste brings in cooked lemon, honeycomb. This is interesting and well made. It’s up to sauced dishes, white meats. 13.5°. From spring 2019. 2030-32 Dec 2018 Previously Nov 2017 (cask) ***(*) fine yellow colour. Has a soft aroma, white fruits, flowers, grapey airs. is discreet, still reserved. The palate has an easy opening, is round and soft, holds nice, neat gras. This is a wine of roundness, ends on a curve. The flavour involves peach near the stone, lemon. Just ***(*). 70% Mars, 30% Rouss. 2023-24 Nov 2017

2016 ()

2 bottles, 1st is corked. Bottle 2: bright, fine yellow colour. The nose is attractively rounded, has peach and honeysuckle airs, cooked lemon, grapey and smoky elements. This is gentle, charming all through, holds soft richness, peach and quince in the flavour. It grips on the end, some darkness there, a Marsanne emphasis. It’s nutty from the oak, has good roundness and length. 13.5°. 2023-24 Nov 2017

2015

handsome yellow robe, a hint of green. The nose bears a light trimming of salt, a toasted and white plum jam backdrop. The palate is compact, sealed, doesn’t extend very far. There is an undercurrent of lemon, cooked citrus fruits, quince, and that link with freshness defines it well. Decanting will help this shine through more. It holds elegant gras, is made to be more poised than powerful. From 2018, when it will have more to say. 13.5°. 14,000 b. 70% Mars, 30% Rouss. 2024-26 Oct 2016

2014 ()

yellow robe, some green glints. The nose is promising, delivers a mixed aroma including stem ginger, vanilla, toasting, apricot juice. The palate is stylish, its gras elegant, comes with a supple, bonny roll out. There are nuts, almonds in the flavour – this is a typical and also refined Marsanne display. The fruit is cool, and bears the effortless ease of old vines (tasted blind); this holds a comfortable freshness as well. It has the body for poulet de Bresse (Bresse chicken) in a morilles, wild mushroom sauce. The balance is good. 13.5°. 2023-25  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

shiny yellow, legs, an encouraging robe. The nose has an attractive purity, a grace thanks to airs of primrose flowers, white stone fruits, a soft vanilla and honey presence. The palate is supple, on the go, bears nicely fleshy fruit, some white raisin seasoning. It ends with a trim gras richness, roundly and pretty long, then a nice punch for the sign-off. Suave, enjoyable St Jo blanc. 13.5°. 2020-21  Jan 2015

2012

shiny yellow, with green tints. There is a note of reduction on the nose, mainly reflects stewed pear with licorice, high fruit, has a salty note: there are two parts to the nose, which is direct. The palate debut gives a stewed white fruits flavour, with a pretty clear flow along it, then ending on a low-key firmness. This could have more late palate filling, is unfinished business, needs to integrate. A fresh, skipping along style of St Jo blanc. 13.5°. From mid-2014. 70% Mars, 30% Rouss this year. €11.50 ex cellars. 13.5°. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011 ()

pale, flinty yellow. Peach-quince-lime airs set a good start, come with guava ripeness, have a floral undertone. This has a flan-brioche baked bread flavour, a measured gras richness. Holds secure matter, is elegant towards the finish. Round, but also free – I give it marks for harmony, which is aided by its good, fine acidity that keeps it clean and clear. There is a squeeze of grip on the aftertaste – this is long. 13.5°. 2017-18  Nov 2012

2010 ()

bottled one month ago: even, mild yellow. Clear notes on the nose – pear, rather a Viognier style air, fair depth – will be more expressive in 3 months, has nice richness within. The palate is also dumb, post-bottling. Has a medium-level gras richness, drinks easily enough, can do the aperitif. Decent length, ends clearly. Shows vanilla-flan and dried fruits on the finale. 13.5°. 2018-19 June 2011 Previously March 2011 ***(*) (assembled, 600-litre cask, malo done, SO2 applied) pale yellow; jam, rich white fruit, pear, cooked fruit tart and brioche airs. The palate combines sinew and gras, lengthens well, shows that richness on the finish. This has matter in it, is full, has movement and is broad. Latent glow on the finish. 2021-22 March 2011

2009 ()

pale yellow, green glints. Apricot, white jam airs, floral notes behind the oak, and mineral-salty touches. The palate is sealed tightly, with prominent oak and hazelnut, dried fruits in the flavour. Its gras creeps along the palate, and shows most at the end. This is a structured white. From mid-2012 or later. 2020-22 March 2011

2008

the only St Jo white this year – no Berceau. Yellow, green tints; the nose is a shade softer than that of the Saint-Péray Les Pins – offers a little butter, white greengage, ripe lime fruit. The palate has nice, quiet Marsanne grip, with a taste of butter, honey, vanilla, hazelnut. The length is good – this gains in weight at the end, and is a more “rustic”, of the ground wine than the more floating Saint-Péray. “It has a bit more body than the Saint-Péray,” Fabrice Gripa. 13.5°. Bottled July 2009. To 2016. Dec 2009

2007 ()

yellow robe; honey, baked fruits aroma, with pear, white raisin, pineapple and a touch of spice in behind. This is a punchy wine with a hint of SO2 for now; there is a spice-honey combo, melted honey, in the flavour, and it shows some of the Marsanne stiffness as it finishes. A wine with a solid interior, definite body, and expressive Marsanne on parade. Good length. 2014-15 late Dec 2008 Previously early Dec 2008 *** steady yellow robe; light butter aroma, with flowers such as honeysuckle and wisps of pear. The palate commences with white fruit, has a good second half, grips well towards the finish and offers depth for the future, its evolution. This is a refined vintage. The length is good. “I prefer this to our 2006 – there is more matter and more wine in it, and it is better balanced,” Fabrice Gripa. Bottled July 2008. To 2013. Dec 2008

2006

light yellow. There is some snap in the lightly styled, easy bouquet – the principal aromas are white fruits, especially greengage, with a bit of spice present. The palate is a little dumb just now. Comes across on this showing as an aperitif, softly styled wine, with some rather fleeting white fruits present. Its length continues quietly, and is perfectly sound, without extras. Maybe more open and on show from mid to late 2008. 13°. 2013-14 Jan 2008 Previously Dec 2007 **(*) hazelnut, honey aroma, with some peach – comes in a ripe fashion. Honey and white raisin in the flavour that stops a little early. Has some toasting in its flan flavour. Served rather warm, note. Dec 2007

2005

mild yellow colour; white fruits, spiced bouquet, with a buttery surround, comes in a safe style. Fleshy, rounded attack, with a few late exotic fruits on show, with some smokiness. Very elegant wine with a silken texture – drinks and flows cleanly and well now. To 2010. Dec 2006

2004 ()

wholesome, broad, well-set bouquet that persists, has a mix of white fruit, iodine, may have Roussanne (tasted blind). Honey and a nicely supple start, with flavours of quince with a good tang to it. Has a marked mineral print, then the honey comes back, aftertaste is clear. Just fades a touch. Still ways to go, a second phase beckons. Clean, open wine with good structure. STGT. 2011-12 June 2006

2003

floral, white fruits bouquet, has an iodine tang. Spring of flavour on attack - dried fruits, nuts. Nicely rich and prolonged, with some citrus elements, length good. Bit of end heat. More complete by 2006. 2011-12

2002 ()

soft white fruit, floral/mineral; aroma. Suave, soft fruit, tightens - dried skin fruit near finish. Trace honey/spice on rather sudden end.

2001

pretty, stylish, nutty nose; suave, quite oaked palate, tightens into a pear flavour end. Modern style, drink from 2004.

2000

light fruit, bit dumb, high aroma; nice, fine tight white fruit. Soft, gently rounded texture. 2007-09