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The Wines

60-75% Marsanne (1960s-1970s on Maison Blanche, early 1970s on Diognières), 25-40% Roussanne (1970s on Diognières), overall 25% from Maison Blanche, 75% from Péléat & Diognières, cool post press decantation, oak cask fermented at 16°C over 4 weeks, raised 50-60% new (down from 75%), 30-50% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 12-20 months (up from 14 months until late 2000s), no lees stirring since 2012, malo completed, filtered, organic wine, 2,000 b

2016 ()

(casks) shiny yellow robe. The hazelnut of the Marsanne comes through clearly on a cool, salted nose, which has a banana, buttery underlay. There is a delicacy and detail about it which I like. The palate is neatly lined with a lemon flavoured run of fruit, has a mild richness, a careful ending. This is more reserved than some 2016s, has a floral, gentle appeal. It will accompany sea bass with fennel, Poulet de Bresse, firm cheese such as Comté. 13.5°. 2029-30 Nov 2017

2015

yellow robe, a fine appearance. The nose is open and expressive, has early exuberance with notes of cooked lemon, white flowers, acacia blossom, with a buttery and greengage backdrop. The palate drinks easily, lacks the stature of the leading wines, is New Wave in style, a skimmer. It may open further, but for now is limited, notably on the quiet, tame, but rounded finish. It seems to have withdrawn post-bottling, especially as I thought it would be raised for longer. 13.5°. 2,000 b. 60% Mars, 40% Rouss. 2025-26 Oct 2016 Previously Apr 2016 ***** (casks) shiny, pretty full yellow robe. Aniseed and greengage airs here, a near petrol line, white peach, light salting, lime. It has a very comfortable depth. This stroked the palate – there is a finely textured cruise control run of apricot and light hazelnut. It ends on a silken roundness. This a pedigree wine with lovely flow and smoothness, is a beauty. It displays very good finesse on the close, with a mighty detailed, precision. It deserves fine food. Very good balance; it has very typical Les Murets texture and finesse. Brillo wine. “Spice, curry would be good  with it; it needs a rivalry on the table. Also good with truffles that are up to its depth,” Philippe Belle. From 2019. 2034-36  Apr 2016

2014

bottled last week: shiny, quite full yellow robe. The bouquet is buttery, gives a prominent richness, has a measured, sunny quality. Young oak, banana and light notes of nougat feature. This is texture-led wine with dried fruits, vanilla, infused tea such as camomile appearing towards the finish. Oak is still present. It is dumb but promising; its almond flavour goes across it, it glides well, and ends with steady grip. It is wine for la table, clean and traditional. Decant this. “It holds joli gras richness, is very fine,” Phillippe Belle. 13.5°. 60%Mars, 40% Rouss. From 2018. 2027-28  Apr 2016

2013 ()

(cask) shiny, decent yellow colour. Lightly oaked, lime, nicely free and expressive nose that shows the quality of the vintage in that freedom. There is a light note of liquid honey, vanilla from the oak also. The palate starts on an array of exotic fruits, with white plum, spice present; this is inherently rich, and carries its richness well, with purpose along the palate. It ends on a dentelle, lifted note - good. The balance is good. Roussanne appears at the end. It drinks with some success now, though decant it if so. 13.5°. From 2020 otherwise, to allow it to lengthen and vary. This year it is 60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne, the Roussanne on the rise. 2035-38  Jan 2015

2010

(casks) bright, pale yellow, very clear robe with legs. Has a zesty, seasoned air that comes with a light touch of hazelnut, trace of pineapple, some SO2; it is youthful, pointed for now, is not settled. The palate is muscular, even a bit wiry, in on itself; it has not found its true form and nature yet. It is more upright than expansive, so be patient. It reflects the initial struggle for ripeness this year, and is a shade uncertain. It ends on a bit of burn, oak toast. It can amplify, I think. Decant this. From 2014. 2025-26 Nov 2011

2006

pale yellow; exotic fruits aroma, but some sulphur is blocking it for now. The palate has a simple, flan-vanilla, crème patisserie flavour that evolves into banana and peach. This lacks a little length and also late grip and matter. It drinks OK now, and doesn`t suggest a long horizon lies ahead. 2016-18 Dec 2007

2004 ()

varnish, table wax aroma, the modern school of winemaking, with banana present. Shows some restraint in line with the vintage shape. Big, oaked wine with lots of content on palate. Very young and hidden now. Sound length, has a tickle of freshness. Overt oak burst on finish, then an orange/tangerine/crème brulée aftertaste. Nicely elegant, just lacks a bit of oomph. Leave till 2010. 2019-21 April 2006

2002

(cask) buttery, compact nose; tight-knit, quite obvious richness, solid in its way. Good content, esp 2008 on. 2014-15

2001

light oak/honey aroma; pineapple, firm, has elegant matter within. Some nut, oak on top. Length OK. 2007 on. 2015-17

1995 ()

good, wide bouquet - white fruits mostly, substance there; thorough flavours, quiet richness. Some almond on end. Discreet and will evolve and expand well.

1994 ()

rich aspect; nice amount of fat on nose, aromatic. Cask effect on top, not quite the matter there as yet. Try in 2001-03, this can live. 2006-10.