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The Wines

1960s, 1970s, 2000 Syrah from the flat land of Les Mazards, and from granite-limestone hillsides, low yields, from late 2000s all destemmed but not crushed, having been 35% destemmed crop before, 2-4 week vinification without SO2, manual cap punching, weekly vat emptying-refilling, aged vat, 5-8 year 400-420-500-litre oak casks 18-20 months, unfined, unfiltered, SO2 of 2 mg/litre applied at bottling, not before, plastic cork closure, 12-15,000 b


red robe; floral notes, red fruit gums, a kind curve to the bouquet. The early red fruit on the palate has a spring in its step, streams steadily, holds well, is well juiced. But this is a bit light for a Cornas, the axis on flowers and ease. It’s close to New Wave, is fine. I want more stuffing, Vicar. 13°. 2034-36 Dec 2019


quite a dark red; spice-pepper are developing on the nose, with rose, floral musk, plum fruits, coulis of strawberry. There is an iron thread through the palate, with further spicing, and grippy, clear tannins. It builds en route, ends well, almost with a rush, has a little tightness in form, isn’t all as one, which is a 2016 imprint. 12.5°. From spring 2021. 2039-41 Feb 2019 Previously Nov 2018 **** quite a dark red; has a smoky, elegant nose, offers pepper, black fruits, a hint of black olives. The palate bears sleek fruit, ripe tannins encompassed. It’s a bit tame, but can amplify, has a suave texture. There is restrained fruit and tannin that aren’t yet fully ensemble. It’s still under the influence of its bottling, so wait a while. 12.5°. From 2021. 2035-37 Nov 2018 Previously Feb 2018 **** (cask, bottling March 2018) quite a full red. Black cherry -liqueur style aroma, dried herbs. The palate is fragrant with violets, kind black fruits, neat pebbly tannins, licorice. This is well together, carries the finesse of the year, is aromatic wine. It is rather delicate, beau in style. From mid-2020. 2029-31 Feb 2018


several elements tasted, bottling Jun/Aug 2016: 1) 1970s Syrah from Terrasses du Coulet, limestone outcrops, used 420-litre oak cask **** dark robe; has a gentle, beau black berry fruit aroma with floral notes. There is a little animal funkiness. It is a good nose. The palate is well fruited on the attack, is bright, active, almost perlant, close to spritz. The finish tight, clear. The fruit is pure – small berries, with a soft florality. Good, naked wine. 12 years. 2) 1960s & 1970s massale Syrah from La Patronne, granite outcrops, used 400-litre oak cask ***(*) dark red; prune, with soaked raspberry, lurking reduction, violets and Pez sweets on the nose. The palate starts freshly, has direct, rather narrow flanks, is a touch linear, spare. The fruit is black, and the wine delivers some foundation towards the finish. It has a salt/mineral granite-led close. 13 years. 3) 1970s Syrah from La Ferme du Coulet, used 500-litre oak cask **** good dark red; the nose has an open and broad air of red berries, is stylish, fives an inviting fragrance, shows a wee note of reduction. The palate has a good frame, bears attractive red berry fruit within. It is coherent, elegant and open, and can become a worthy ensemble. It is more fleshy than the first two. This is a precise wine for the blend. The aftertaste is aromatic, clear, and a touch dry from its oak. 14 years. 4) Syrah from Guytoune (Arlettes in effect), at 3.6 hectares is the largest plot, east facing, pure granite, used 400-litre oak cask ****(*) dark robe; the nose is soft and charming, has airs of cassis and blackberries. The palate starts tenderly; this is bonny, the fruit pure and nicely streamlined. This has Burgundian manners, a floral shimmer on both nose and palate. A delightful, singing wine. 14 years. 5) 2000 Syrah from Sozette Ouest, windy, the last to harvest near Eygats, used 500-litre oak cask ***(*) dark red; soaked cherries, cassis in an open nose, a touch of volatile acidity. The palate has a rounded shape, the fruit soft, in a pastille style; seems a low acidity wine. Black jam, dark berry coulis here. 11 years. OVERALL **** very promising, a wine with a deft combination of aromatic content, good style along the palate and a mix of a little steady depth with an enjoyable, stylish topping. Elegant, with enough depth to hold the interest. 2027-29  Oct 2015


attractive red robe. Nutshells, mulberry fruit, tight blackberry aromas show on the nose, which has an enclosed potential, a sunny outer, a more mineral-brooding inner, a flirtation with acetate. The palate reveals red fruits laced with mineral – they come under darkness as it were, while it gallops freely on the finish. This has good skeleton, with a gain in fat to come. It has good, precise length and finish. The fruit is pure, and the wine has savoury aspects. This has a good gliding quality, a lissom texture. 13°. 2027-28  April 2016 GB Justerini & Brooks £375 12 b i/b www.justerinis.com   Previously Oct 2015 ***(*) mild red robe. The nose combines flowers and red berries, strawberry, raspberry jam, is gradually evolving and moving forward. The has a wiry strength; the surface is coated with a coulis of raspberry, then delivers a little crunch on the finish. There are juicy moments here, so drink from 2017 for a more free flow. This has naked qualities, and can gain more flesh. It is very much on its mineral now. “It is very drinkable and low degree. I like its mineral end,” Matthieu Barret. 13°. 2025-27  Oct 2015

2012 ()

(casks) mild red robe. The bouquet is gamey, fundamental, shows cooked red fruits with a leathery angle. The palate gives direct red fruit, with an aromatic leaning after half way. It persists nicely and quietly, and shows a relative delicacy towards the finish. Aromatic – violets – with mineral and licorice appear on the finish. From 2015. 2022-24  Nov 2013


dark red robe, small advance on it. The nose is quiet, reserved, shows violets, vintage depth, meatiness, compact red fruits lined up. It is getting to be Cornas – those violets. Licorice moves forward with air, and it intensifies also. This is just getting going on the palate, is fresh and springy, with an iodine thread through it. It has a free travel of dark fruit, with mineral pushing through strongly towards the close, typical of Cornas. It holds itself back still, testament to the balance and inner strength of the vintage. It gives clear drinking, and flashes of Cornas. This was double decanted and requires air. 13.5°. 2031-33 April 2018 Previously Feb 2012 **** super bright, full purple-red colour; there are supple airs on the nose, dark fruit with grainy, gritty notes. The palate is stiff, holds clear-cut fruit at its centre, and extends on that note of grain. A brut form of wine that has not yet got going. Bottled Nov 2011. It ends clearly and soundly, quite crisply. From 2014. 13.5°. 2026-28 Feb 2012 Previously Nov 2011 **** (casks) full, dark colour. The nose is wide – brewed, beefy, prune and blackberry, cooked fruits also here. It has an earthy, grounded nature, is broad, and traditional in style. Ripe fruit kicks off the palate, backed by a tarry overlay, a bit of decomposition, the fruit tinted with that rather than running on the lift, with clarity. The texture is ripe at first, offers supple squeeze. Plenty of flavour in this, can be drunk earlier than some. The length is OK, not flamboyant. From mid-2013. 2024-26. "We had coulure this year, so we only made 10,000 bottles," M Barret. Nov 2011


bright red and black robe; has a biscuity, grilled aroma that lies steadily in the glass. The palate black fruits have an edge of zest, and this ends with a decisive, slightly charcoal note. Still tight – from spring 2010 as a result. Both the nose and the palate are upright, not souple. Bottled Oct 2008. 2016-17 March 2009


dark, bright robe; black fruit with a leathery aroma present on the bouquet, has some sweet tea also, and reflects long hang time for the crop. The palate's black fruit shows a little early sweetness, then it is overtaken by its oak. From mid-2009, when it can be more varied. To 2016-17 Dec 2007


dark, cherry colour; has a smoky, clear, well-filled nose, with the aroma on its reserve now, and flecks of oak in the air. The palate black fruit is wiry now, with the oak evident. Needs leaving – is an upright wine now. From 2009. 2017-18 Dec 2006

2004 ()

smoky, black fruit and bacon aroma; clear, rounded berry fruit on the palate. Nice style, clean wine. Its tannins need leaving until late 2007. A go-go style of Cornas. 2012-14 Dec 2005