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The Wines

60-80% Marsanne, 20-40% Roussanne, from lime, loess, limestone chippings covered granite soils in southern Toulaud area - Les Bialères (late 1970s), fermented large oak barrel, wild yeasts, raised large oak barrel & 228-litre oak casks 9 months (before mid-2010s raised 33% new, 67% 1-2 year oak 9-11 months), lees stirred, fined, filtered, "drink with pike-perch fish in beurre blanc", 3-4,000 b

2017 ()

marked yellow robe. There’s an air of elderberry on the nose, with beeswax, liquid honey, white peach, a nose that can open and give more. This drinks well, centred around its agreeable, rolling gras which has tangy moments late on, a cooked orange element on the finish. It has sound body for la table, chicken curry an option. The finish is firm, very steady. It’s a bit dour for now, so decanting is an aid. 14°. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss. 2027-28 Dec 2018

2016 ()

yellow robe. Stewed, rounded, mature white fruits compose the aroma, which suggests table over solo drinking. It has a nutty element, a hint of reduction, so decanting good. There is nicely easy, rolling gras here; it has a tidy plumpness, is smooth and rounded, leads on a flavour of peach stone, a touch of apricot. The finish is secure, pretty thorough. This will be good with seabass, halibut. There is light tang on the aftertaste from the Marsanne. It does a little more early than late, and there is orange zest on the aftertaste. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss. 13.5°. 2022-23 Apr 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe. There is aa ginger snap air on the front nose, backed by apricot juice that brings a little thickness, and vanilla pod. The palate drinks serenely with a neat ball of white fruits gras, and a quiet close. It has authentic St-Péray clarity and freshness. Light flavoured dishes will do well with this, steamed fish, noodles, even an aperitif. 14°. 3,500 b. €9.80 export. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss. To 2020 Oct 2016

2014

pretty full yellow robe. The nose is broad, not especially clearly defined, has a white tobacco, camomile tea aspect, glazed sugar and oak also. The palate spreads widely, holds some insistent richness, with a late flavour of caramel, brioche bread. This will drink well with grilled sardines, red mullet, Asiatic cuisine. The finish delivers an arrow of ginger, spearmint. Can be better still from mid-2016. 13.5°. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss. 2021-22  GB £59/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015 

2012 ()

shiny, sound yellow colour. The bouquet fires out a flash of freshness, almost offers gooseberry, grapefruit airs, with aniseed to reinforce the fresh impression. It has sound depth behind a sense of brioche baked bread. The palate is round and well-knit – this is a wine for food. It has a good, salty kick-off, with nice spine, keeps it going directly. Good style here. It will be more expressive from mid-2014. It can be drunk solo, but the best context would be wtith pork, soft cheese. 13.5°. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011 ()

clear green-tinted yellow colour, legs down the glass. The aroma brings in hazelnut, honeysuckle flowers, candy and toffee from its raising – the nose is pretty full, and even shows a note of wild garlic. The palate delivers a jam flavour that mixes cooked apple, spearmint, honey, a late note of ginger. It is pretty much on song now; suited to drinking on sweetbreads, cooked salmon with Jersey Royal new potatoes. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. 14.5°. 2018.  Nov 2012

2010 ()

mid-depth yellow, green tints. Oak-butter-light caramel on the nose whose fruit resembles cooked lime and pear, also mandarin and pineapple. There is a nice burst on the start of the palate – it is mineral-filled, has juicy and upbeat gras which persists until the finish, where this a brioche, baked bread note. This has a good Saint-Péray breeze in it, and it combines the richness of the vintage and the fine grain, mineral of the vineyard. Good, classy wine that is wide across the palate, has fine richness and may well close. 13.5°. 2019-20 Nov 2011

2009

bright, vibrant yellow; lime, banana, oak airs running up and down the glass – the nose is rather full, but there is enough liberty in it to be a little breezy. The palate is wide and thorough: cautious white fruits sit in a creamy texture; there is fine length, a good take-up of mineral in the later stages. Notably good persistence. From mid-2011. To 2017. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, raised nine months this year. July 2010

2008

rather full yellow; oak and hints of pineapple on the nose. Fair content on the palate, a spiced aftertaste. Is a mid+ weight wine that is more fine than potent. To 2014. July 2010

2007 ()

yellow tints in the robe; first impression on the nose is oak, also butter and lime, maybe a bit of SO2. The oak also brings honey and pineapple airs. The palate has a rounded fabric, a fat that is oak encased, the oak not too apparent, especially if this is served good and chilled. There is the taste of oak on the finish notably – this is rather low on crispness. It has a little refinement. 13.5°. To 2013. March 2009

2006 ()

mild yellow colour; butter with a little tangerine in the nose – it possesses a quiet foundation, and while reserved now, shows potential for the future. The palate starts with the flavour of melted butter, the style of wine suited for food rather than aperitif. It runs on with some late crispness, but is not that cohesive just now. The Marsanne bitterness is dominant at the finish, and it needs to draw itself together. I would leave until late 2008 for that, as it improves with air now. 14°. 2012-14 Jan 2008

2005

yellow robe; oaked, broad bouquet, with some pineapple, cooked pear and exotic fruit tendency from the oak. Rich matter at the heart of the palate, the sides are oaked but it all works OK. Is a little retro with its overt oaking, from the flash 1990s. Dried fruits, baked pear flavours, nicely rich. Ends tidily, is pretty clean, with a raisin flavour on the aftertaste. 14°. To 2009. Nov 2006

2004

marked yellow. Big style of bouquet, ample if a little heavy, pear and oak mingle. Weighted palate with a touch of candy in the flavour, ripe fruit and brown sugar. Fat finale, this is a sit-down wine of some construction, not a refreshing drink. The oak fences it in, but it holds core richness. Choose food such as foie gras or sauced fish and don't over chill it. To 2008-10. June 2006

2002

orange marmalade, rather square shaped bouquet. Some scale on the palate, taste of exotic fruits with an oak influence from half way. Quite agreeable - its oak has been handled OK, and there is richness and length in the wine. To 2007-08. Dec 2004

2000 ()

quietly warm white fruits nose; fair grace on palate, some richness; oaked, rather burnt end. Fair.

1999

exotic, floral/lime aroma; butter, with end mineral, white pepper. Overt ripe fruit used.