Marie-Josée Michel of Le Vieux Donjon at Châteauneuf-du-Pape: long-lived, authentic wine, no flim-flam. A mighty, wonderful, 7 star 1990 adds to the appeal.
VETERANS CORNER is a few of the old wines, les anciens, that I have drunk with pleasure, often when they should no longer have been running with the pack. There is no strict theme, except the thought that old bottles do indeed tend to provide the truth (to quote Gérard Chave at Hermitage). A lot of these were never destined for the spotlight, nor did their growers actively seek acclaim through flashy winemaking.
If any readers have also drunk these wines in recent times, any comments would be welcome, and would be posted up as well. Once logged, in, to read the close-ups, click the subheading The Wines in the Left Hand column immediately under the Veterans Corner heading.
SEPTEMBER 2011: my thoughts on Le Vieux Donjon at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a domaine that makes just one wine, as opposed to lots of super-cuvées. I reflect on the history of the domaine, and notably on its 1990 and 1981.
MARCH 2011: my essay on the life of Marius Gentaz, 1922-2011, a superb viticulteur and grower at Côte-Rôtie.
JANUARY 2011: to review 1985, a wonderful vintage of ultimate balance, from Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Raspail-Ay and Vieux Télégraphe respectively.
OCTOBER 2010: to see some thoughts on drinking the 1996 Château Rayas white, in reply to a subscriber from Norway. Go on, Norge!
To see more, please Log In and click the subheading under Veterans Corner, namely The Wines.