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The Wines

Syrah (1993) from mica-schist soils on Moutonnes & Chavaroche, 90% destemmed, 3 week concrete vat vinification, pumping overs, cap punchings, aged 30% new, 70% 1-10 year 228-litre oak casks 18-20 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2009, 900-1,460 b

2018 ()

(casks) full red; the nose is Southern, gives black olives, supple black cherry fruit, carries sweetness, light perfuming. The palate is perfumed on the attack, holds easy richness with a little intensity at its centre. The tannins are supple, within. It’s a bit of an instant wonder, very much in the here and now, will do well in the restaurant trade because it’s open and obviously fruited. The length is correct, a note of pastille succulence on the aftertaste. From spring 2020, can be decanted. 2033-35 Nov 2019

2017

(casks) dark red robe; the nose is not yet in sync, shows mulled stone fruits, a note of volatile potentially, black cherry; it could be a little fresher. The palate bears black berry fruits and fleshy content, the texture supple. I wonder how balanced this is, with the feel that it’s not as bright as most of the 2017s. There is a stewed nature to the fruit. The tannins are gummy on the close. 14°. 100% Syrah. From 2020. 2029-31 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(casks) sober, quite dark red colour. The bouquet presents an aroma of stewed fruits, raspberries, with a liqueur notion. There is a low-level grilling in back. There is almost the image of the noble sweat of a vineyard worker here. The palate is honest, traditional, holds sweet-toned red fruits with mild, squeezy tannins in the late display. It reminds me of good old school Nuits St Georges from decades past [not mixed with N African wines, mind you]. There is a perfumed, musky close-out, en rondeur. Decanting helpful, and it will show well to aficionados when it is eight-plus years’ old. 13.5°. 1,200 b. From spring 2019. 2029-31 Nov 2017

2015 ()

(tank, sugars, malo completed, 4 mg of SO2 last week) dark red; this has a lovely nose – delightful blackberry, mulberry, a gracious depth about it. The nose is a flagship for the wine. The palate presents a flavour of fruit pastilles with inner gras richness; it is very gourmand, close to OTT – over the top. But it is perfumed and long. 2033-35 Oct 2015  

2014

(new 228-litre cask, one of the four) dark red. Has a sultry, raspberry on roller skates aroma that guns out well, comes with violets and rose hip. The palate presents coulis style fruit such as cassis and raspberry; it is serene, has cosy depth, a tasty heart, is fine and croquant (enjoyable to drink). It takes on extra tannin, light crunch, on the finish. This is notably charming, with depth as well. From mid-2018. 2027-28  Oct 2015

2013 ()

(casks) full, deep robe. Has a brimming, wide nose – there is a black cherry, good consistent aroma, a light note of grilling, nutty oak alongside. Attractive, expressive, cool black fruit is in pole position on the palate. Shapely, smooth tannins fit in well. This is a good ensemble. Good length, very good wine all round. Its depth is appealing, and it captures the virtues of the vintage in their best light. Good balance, engaging wine. It ends on oak for now. 13°. From spring 2017. 2031-33 Jan 2015

2004 ()

spice, violet mix on bouquet, heightened fruit aroma, some reduction. Soft start, fruit has sound style, some weight. Pretty finish, harmonious, good future ahead. Tannins need till 2008. 2020-22 March 2005

2003 ()

(cask) brewed, chocolate aroma, with rather rustic, farmyard side. Brewed theme continues on palate, red fruit with an earthy tinge. Sound core matter, but could be more decisive, more clean. Traditional style. 2018-20

2002

quite fresh bouquet, though has core, a degree of depth. Broad palate for the year, likeable. Brewed grapes, the fruit could be clearer, but has some local feel. 2013-15

2001

some violet aroma, cooked fruits: it is quite authentic. Rounded style, pretty tasty. Cooked fruits finish, not especially fresh. Fair length, trace end tannin. Genuine. 2016-18