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The Wines

Viognier from La Roncharde (1988) at Condrieu, includes purchased crop from Malleval, fermented 50% new, 50% 1-year 228-litre oak casks, aged 12 months (up from 8-10 months), lees stirred thrice monthly until Christmas, malo completed, fined, filtered, first wine 2006, 6,000 b

2019 ()

(cask) yellow robe; has a discreetly floral aroma, white plum, tangerine present. It’s not yet hit its stride. The palate is refined, has nerve, and a low-key spine, develops depth gradually. This is potentially stylish, has lift, with a good control on the finish, which is on peach, white peach. 2025-26 Dec 2019

2018 ()

yellow robe. The nose gives pineapple, exotic fruits, notes of apricot juice, vanilla. The palate is a kind mix of freshness and richness, has a lychees, tropical, papaya flavouring. The finish is tender, cosy, well rounded. There’s neat note of orange peel clarity on the aftertaste. “2018 is well fruited, rich,” Christophe Semaska. 14°. Bottled Sept 2019. To 2024 Dec 2019

2014 ()

shiny yellow. The bouquet is open, and bursts with butter-caramel, toast, vanilla, white peach. Its oak influence is still prominent. The palate leads with vanilla, apricot above ginger, has a supple texture, and shows oak on the finish. This has gras, and is squeezy wine with inner reserves. It is suited to Vieille France cuisine, such as quenelles de brochet, pike quenelles. The finale is solid, has an orange marmalade touch. A profound wine, decanting a benefit. 14°. 2022-23 Apr 2016

2013

yellow robe. Violets, Pez sweets, apricot juice and quince mingle on the nose. The palate gives cooked white fruits, ginger, floral and vanilla influences; it goes long, keeps going well. The oak is fusing now. A beau, thorough, manly Condrieu. 14°. 2024-26  Apr 2016

2011 ()

full yellow colour. There are peach airs, lychee, pineapple, exotic fruits on the nose, with ginger, juice of apricot. This is wide and closely knit, has a smooth attach starting on cooked lemon. More exotic fruits come forward on the finish, mixed prompts there. Lots of wine in the glass here. 14°. 2023-24  Apr 2016 Previously Nov 2012 *** fine yellow. Peach-pear, beeswax air, has a white jam and candy style richness, banana flambé – this is a broad bouquet. This is better with fishes than aperitif – it has an assertive, slightly scorched fruit of pear and cooked apple, a note of flan; it ends on apricot, light hazelnut. It is rather roughly hewn, but has character. 14°. 2016-17  Nov 2012

2010

this has 6 gm of residual sugar, and states demi-sec on the label. The nose is reserved, but still has potential! It mixes banana and apricot, cooked citrus fruits, is profound. The debut on the palate is compact, with a lime influence, and it approaches passion fruit, grapefruit. Its red wine structure is testament to the quality and depth of the vintage. The palate is still enclosed, it bears supple gras, and has a lip smack close. It can live well. Decant it. “There are jam fruits present,” Christophe Semaska. 14°. 2025-27  Apr 2016

2007 ()

full, fat yellow robe; has a baked fruit, flan aroma that reflects pear tart, crème brûlée – this is a big affair, with oak-toast also present. The palate is wide, like the bouquet, with a full, quite charged centre. The pear fruit is near eau de vie in style, and this feature is most noticeable near the finish. Too potent for the aperitif, but food can absorb its alcohol – hence drink with sauced and spiced foods. The power gives some bitterness, petrol in the flavour. 15° - no surprise when I see the label after tasting. To 2010 end. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 (new oak cask) **(*) oily, bold aroma – pear, bonbon and wee fennel. Cooked fruit on the palate, brioche with white fruits, this is a big wine that is walking towards dessert foods to accompany it. Has a big aftertaste, and not suited to the aperitif. Cheese or fruit tarts will be good with it. Some late grip, length is sound. (1-year oak cask) ** waxen aroma, some high tone, a broad effect. Cohesive palate with life and cut in it. This is more racy than the new oak wine.  15.4°  Overall To 2012. Muscular wine. Jan 2008

2006 ()

prominent, willing aroma that is generous without excess – shows buttery apricot, some cut and light toasting from the oak. Has a good, solid start to the palate, with quite a masculine nature. Ends on a note of burn, and there is the feel of some alcohol late on. Serve this good and cool, therefore. Does not really travel all the way, and is a bit edgy. More open by the spring of 2008. “I would have bottled it earlier, but was hit by the strike at the Saint-Gobain glass works before the French elections in May – I had no bottles. The malo ended suddenly at the end of June,” C.Semaska. Jan 2008