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The Wines

100% Syrah (massale Serine, 1972-73) from a rented 0.7 hectare granite, fine arzelle sanded granite soils, a bit of clay on Lancement, 90% destemmed until 2017 when all whole bunch, 2018 50%, 2019 also all whole bunch, 5 day cooling at 14°C, then 3-4 week vinification, wild yeasts, part vat emptying/refilling until late 2010s, then daily pumping overs only, aged 100% new 228-litre oak casks 24 months (18 months in 2012), unfined, filtered, first wine 2012, heavy bottle, 1,800 b

2019

(cask) dark robe; the bouquet goes roaring off, on inky, oily notes, vigorous eucalyptus, varnish, soaked red cherries within. The palate runs with a menthol furnishing, rows of plump blackberries, is full of charge and life, unbridled, a thoroughbred horse that roams the plains. It’s full of dash, assertion. This has a compelling character - wake up, you at the back of the form. Clément made this, great going, way to go, jeune homme! “It’s 100% whole bunch; we did no cap punching, just two pumping overs a day, with an intra cellular maceration,” Clément Semaska. From 2028. 2052-54 Dec 2019

2018 ()

(cask) full, dark red robe; the nose expresses eucalyptus, meaty notes, little sparks of iron-graphite, with red berry fruits, roses. The palate offers a floral hover all through, is very perfumed, with muscle in the texture, intricacy in its composition. The red berry fruit, raspberry, ends well, with discreet intensity and sound flow. This is going to be stylish, lucid. From 2025-26. 2045-47 Dec 2019

2017

(cask) dark red; the nose has an undertone of violet, rose hip, an appealing black berry presence, some smoky, vegetal notes, which re-appear on the palate, where there is a line of menthol, smoked black fruits, plenty of nerve throughout. The aftertaste is tingling clear with a quiet stream of dark fruit. This holds a steady spine. The stems have changed the late texture towards grain and a less suave feel, which gives life and longevity. The aromatic thread is discreet but well present. The combination of iron and stems is challenging for now, so wait until 2025 or so. “It reminds me of the first bottle I bought of Côte-Rôtie in 1985, when no-one destemmed,” Christophe Semaska. 2044-46 Dec 2019

2016 ()

firm, dark red; the bouquet has a meaty undertone, mystery and potential in the package. It has a very good upright stance, with subtle notes of black fruits, licorice. The fruit is cooked, thick, in style. The palate is muscular, intricate, bears granular, black fruited content, requires patience to knit, then open. There’s a brief moment of tender, floral red-fruited gras at the end. This is a wine of character, a true STGT offering. Allow time for oak fusion, and its different elements: it’s complex in the making. 13°. From 2023, decant it. 2040-42 Dec 2019

2015

(new 228-litre cask) has an inky, surging robe, wow! The nose has intricacy and strength. It is stop and study time here. It is already complex (very unusual so young); there is an implication of flowers with blackberry, smoked bacon, licorice. There is an immediate wave of closely packed blackberry fruit on the palate, along with crisp, powdered and ripe tannins. It goes into a savoury enclosure with abundance and terroir cut, that flinty side. Big scale, very good. GB £348 6 b i/b Clarion Wines info@clarionwines.co.uk www.clarionwines.co.uk +44(0)208 747 2069. From 2024. 2040-42 Apr 2016

2014 ()

(cask, bottling Sept 2016) shiny dark robe. There is a swirl of blackberry in coulis form, a light note of graphite, oak and licorice on the nose. This has a good, bold attack, runs with gusto, holds attractive, scented black fruit, oak weaving in. This has good promise. Its fruit is tasty, sustained, and goes long. It is very good, will sing a tune. “It is very long, is digestible; it was insipid for a year, and is now coming through, starting to express itself,” Christophe Semaska. From 2019. 2030-32 Apr 2016

2013

full robe. There are Pinot associations on the nose, oak and vanilla, graphite, an insinuation of violets. The palate gives wavy red fruit, definite intensity. Oak channels the late stages. This has potential. The gras is tasty, there is gourmandise at its heart, and it’s broad across the palate. The aftertaste is soaked. 13°. From 2021. 2030-32 Apr 2016