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The Wines

100% 1935 Syrah from South/South-East facing site of same name high up the schist slope, 1960s lower down, with some 1920s mixed in, 20% destemmed, 30% whole bunch, 50% crushed whole bunch harvest (before late 2010s 50% destemmed), 3-4 week steel vat vinification, wild yeasts, daily pumping overs, cap punching, aged 25-30% new (until mid 2000s was 50%), 70-75% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 24 months, egg white fined, unfiltered, organic wine, 2,500-3,000 b


(cask) dark red robe; the nose has a smoky, iron thread through it, black berry fruits within, a note of licorice. It suggests the rocky northern sector of Rôtie, which is an achievement in this very sunswept vintage. The palate continues with a theme of iron that funnels well along its path, the sides bearing plentiful, elegant cherry fruited matter. This is a surprising STGT wine for 2018, that speaks clearly of its origins – the terroir has done well here. It is discreetly muscular, and well set in its firm surroundings. It’s long, very well extended. From 2024, decanting necessary. 2048-50 Nov 2019


(casks, bottling Sept 2019) dark red; the bouquet is floral, on plum fruit, well together, has a sunny heart, ripeness, carries potential. The palate gives smoky fissure, pumice stone expression, a real basket load of rocks in the glass. There’s a great difference between nose and palate. This is sizeable, compelling, has a good future ahead, is one for the informed drinkers, the real enthusiasts, due to its high rocky content. Decant it. From 2024. 2044-46 Feb 2019 Previously Nov 2018 ***** (casks, bottling Aug 2019) dark red robe; there is a bustling heart to the bouquet which is smoky, has a deep set aroma of raspberry coulis, bears sun strength. The attack is concerted, knit, real close packing and concentrated red juice content within. There’s only a cautious release of juice here; this is a slow developer, has a full heart, and persists thoroughly, with real persistence. 13.5°. 3,000 b. From 2022. 2044-46 GB £710 per 12 b i/bond, £725 per 6 mags i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018

2016 ()

(casks) full robe, barely a chink of light. The nose is sensuous and thorough, has a mass of dark fruits with a smoky hover from the oak, the inside warm and evocative of coulis of blackcurrant. The palate links closely to the nose, offers a roll of generous black fruited content with squeezy tannins in the wheel; they end with grip, crunch. It is a long, sustained Rôtie with northern sector definition, a clench from the rockiness, the schist, the aftertaste cool as a result. This is interesting, plays its cards only partially, has the terroir in its veins [tasted blind – no surprise to see it is Les Grandes Places when ID is revealed]. Set this STGT wine aside until 2022, say. It gives a little violet, a perfume, on the extended aftertaste – that and its relative contrast to its rockiness are so typical of the intricacy and delight of good Côte-Rôtie. 2034-37 Nov 2017


(cask) full, dark robe. The nose reflects its raising via crushed nutshells, comes with blue fruit, licorice, a degree of mystery. It’s broad and full of promise. The palate is tightly drawn together, with a compressed juice at its heart, real rocky fissure wine here, released in limited amounts. The strength of the vintage is apparent. It goes long, with a bundle of lip-smacking tannins to conclude in a cool setting. This is big, manly Côte-Rôtie, and needs to be left until 2022. 13.5°. 3,000 b. 2037-41 Oct 2016 GB £695 12 b £710 6 mags in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com GB/HK £340 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com Oct 2016 Previously Apr 2016 ***** (4 year 228-litre cask) notably dark red. Has a smoky, well defined black fruited aroma – this is a nose of mystery and potential. The palate is live, enclosed with strength of content and grippy tannin. It is masculine, firm, redoubtable wine. It ends with smoky grip. It has greater tannic density than La Viallière 2015. It is very much take your time wine. From 2021. 2043-46  Apr 2016


(casks) shiny dark red colour. Raspberry fruit with a note of baking comes forward on the nose; there is some mystery and hence potential for the future. The palate bears cool red berry fruit with a good inset of tannin, reaching out with a pretty sure hand. There is a crunchy note late on, and, given its sound weight, this can move into good shape from 2018+. 12.5°. 25% new oak. 3,000 b. 2030-32 GB £550 12/b in bond or £57.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015 


full red robe. Has a blackberry, open fronted nose with mulberry and good layers of fruit. Tight, stylish gras lies at the centre of the palate; concentrated intensity comes in a velvet glove, and the finish is aromatic, with Pez flowers. Its potential is high. This is very terroir-related, is smoky wine now. 2034-36 Apr 2016 Previously Jan 2015 ***** (casks) sober dark robe. The nose is reserved – it suggests deep, consolidated fruit, has a brioche, baked bread, quality with it. The dark berry fruit is closely packed, combines prune and mulberry. The palate holds effortless fruit, possesses a silken texture, the tannins absolutely smooth and high quality. There is a very good sense of the northern zone here thanks to its “breathe deeply” mineral, collected close. It shows a brief moment of tenderness as it ends. Has character, is close to STGT. 12.5°. €70 at the cellars. From 2018. 2032-34  Jan 2015

2012 ()

red robe. The nose is restrained, with an inner aroma of big black berries, also licorice. It has potential. The palate is smoky, tight-knit, with mineral influences on top. A plum fruit aftertaste gives a hint of more future openness. There is a thread of rockiness on the finish. 12.5°. From 2019: it will benefit from time. 2030-32  Apr 2016 Previously Nov 2013 ***** (casks, bottling Sept 2014) sound red robe, a bit darker than Viallière. The nose has genuine depth, is broad, feet on the ground, a solid opening, firm notches in its belt. There is a bonny float of raspberry and blackberry fruit circulating and hovering. This has real physical presence – the wine travels wide and long, really covers the ground. It has more flair and is deeper than the 2012 Viallière, is very persistent. Has real potential. It has a fluid good black berry fruit heart. From 2019, for instance. 12.5°. 2031-33. £620 per 12, £640 per 6 mags in bond, J&B in GB.  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(casks) quite a dark red; Has a wide, well-set aroma with strength in its raspberry fruit, a latent power. The backing has content. Sturdy start here, needs time. The palate is enclosed, a firm affair. It holds gummy, closed matter with a serving of firm tannins in charge of it after half way. The hustling tannins leave a strong impression. It stops short of extraction, but is powerful. It is almost chiselled from a rocky escarpment – be patient. It has plenty of drive, a wine of good potential. Decant this. From 2015. 2034-36  Nov 2012

2010 ()

(casks, to be bottled August 2012) attractive, quite full red; reserved, careful nose, bit one can sense its ripeness and balance. A little toast, brioche baked bread in with raspberry fruit airs and a smoky glint, a schist snap and flowers such as rose – the fruit here is curvy. Has a rounded but fluid attack – it delivers free running red fruits and a supple, easy to like texture. Good balance, is a harmony wine that will slowly expand. From 2014, but its harmony will allow early drinking even if it is a bit of a crime. There is a gentle mineral breeze on the aftertaste. It is refined, light touch, has the tightness of the schist, plenty of ways to go. Good. 2037-39 Nov 2011


(cask) dark red, black at the centre. Good ensemble on a substantial bouquet – baked fruits, a hint of dates from ripe, not overdone fruit. There are wafts of smoke in what is a full, but lucid nose – a mark of its quality. This is very well-constituted, has real good togetherness of its elements, a sealed-up quality. It builds as it goes, has finesse and strokeable black fruit that culminates in a licorice and an oak sprinkle. The tannins are fresh, live. It bears the reserve of the northern zone, but ripe and good quality fruit wins the day. This can become complex, has pure qualities, is STGT. I just prefer the Viallière 2009. 2034-36. Bottling Aug 2011. Nov 2010

2008 ()

(casks) attractive red, a little purple top. Soft display of black cherry fruit – the nose is compact, well-knit, has a light graphite-style top air, raspberry also – all told, a good, aromatic start. Like the nose, the palate is close-knit with a peppery final stage, mainly from its oak. Nice gutsy late texture, combined with fleshy matter. This is going along the right road, the wagons are well circled around the camp fire. It will be a gainer over time - I like its gradual unfurling and poise. From autumn 2012. 2026-28 Dec 2009 Previously Dec 2008 *** (2 year 228-litre oak cask) full, dark red for now; reserved nose with a quiet lingering air and depth – the fruit is streamlined. The palate holds red fruit with a steady heart, its length is decent: this has some potential, especially from 2013. Attractive wine in the making, nice and aromatic. 2024-26. 2,400 b this year. Dec 2008


(1 year cask) dark red; smoky, gunflint, cordite aroma, black fruit within – it bustles up behind that first lead air and soaked cherries, griottes and honey come through. There is an intense, “inky”, black fruit start to the palate, comes with energy, and persists. This has an upright frame in its youth, with a clear tinkle of fruit, a strong mineral presence. Needs time to settle and bend more. “It hasn`t closed, and has only been racked once as a result so far,” Gilbert Clusel. From 2012. 2030-32. 2,400 b this year. Dec 2008

2006 ()

(half bottle) red, with magenta traces in the robe; pretty bouquet – has a core of red berry or mulberry, soaked black cherries, with a smoky northern sector ring to it. The palate is attractive – its fruit is evident and open on the attack before it goes quiet, but there is a consistent balance of fruit and tannin in this. It ends on a chewy, flinty, lead pencil moment. Beau vin in the making, with very appealing length of fruit. From 2012. 2028-30. Bottled Sept 2008, 3,000 b this year. Dec 2008 Previously Nov 2007 ***** (casks) black fruits aroma with a surround of some depth: there is more to this than just the fruit, even a little toffee and menthol. It suggests plenty for the future, broods away with its potential. There is immediately harmonious fruit on the palate, that runs in a lissom, assured manner, is savoury in the right way that word should express. It holds really good black fruits with some nice pep in them here, and the tannins are great – bang on, they aid the wine’s structure and are where they should be now. Good, confident length, this persists well with a grand lightness of touch. Has a lot of quality to do well. From 2011. 2031-33 Nov 2007


good deep plum red, a bright robe. Raspberry liqueur, cooked plum aroma with a strong fume-cordite influence and soft musky-floral drifts. There’s more to come, is still coiled, is a long and lingering bouquet. This is grainy, spinal, very 2005, very Les Grandes Places, on violets, plums, good menthol. Its juice is fine, intense, while the texture is fibrous. It’s upright, a wine of stature, very slow burn and very clear, authentic. It carries the influence of stems in its feel and structure, is a bit of a Thinker’s Wine. After two hours: graphite on the palate, with an increased savoury feel. This is mineral, glinting, naked wine; so fresh is it, that it cleans and clears your palate. It builds on emphasis on the finish, a firm drive there, its strength all from the soil and the old vines, since the degree is only 12°. It’s not yet ready, and I have opened it too soon, but it was for my daughter just after she married! It must be decanted. 2042-44 Sept 2020 Previously Nov 2006 ****** (casks) full, dark robe; the nose has big potential – even though it is closed now, there are signs aplenty – a thorough couch of oily, waxen black fruit, with a little raisin. Great balance in this bouquet – nothing untoward about it. The palate continues the bouquet`s theme – tight-knit with bags of scope, and a good, fresh, clear finish. The stage now reveals oak, chocolate and berry fruit, but all can come together well. Some mineral here, is faithful to its place. Braod and very classy on the palate. STGT, a Grand Vin in the making. Dear to my heart, too, since the cover of “The Wines of the Northern Rhône”, published in 2005, shows these vines. From 2015-17. 20334-36 Nov 2006 Previously **** (cask) Dec 2005, so an impression: nose keeps going well, is prolonged and even shows tar with black berry fruit and a sprinkle of floral, violet. Woosh! The palate carries very good, well woven fruit with a lithe sinew. Fruits now are cherry, black. Very elegant, tannins need leaving 4-5 years. 2030-32 Dec 2005

2004 ()

it's starting to open on nose, holds a delightful abundance of red fruits, very clear aromas. The palate has muscle, energy, its acidity is good. The fruit is understated, the shape upright now, but there is a core to it. I expect a gain in weight on the palate from this Burgundian vintage. It's one for the patient drinker. Lots of clarity and a stylish future ahead, suited to refined cuisine. Esp 2009 on. 2027-29 Dec 2005


(half bottle) quite intense nose, lightly oily, waxy aroma. Good stuffing with polished leather, marzipan tones floating around. Again a wax, black fruit, ground coffee sensation on palate; blackcurrant fruit pastilles effect. Tannin in control at finish. Leave till 2009 to loosen, soften. I call this a Bordeaux style this year! 2024-26 December 2005 Previously **** well-cut, full but direct aroma - hints of ripe fruit, smoky bacon. Tight-knit palate, good, full wine with definite elegance, not over potent. STGT from the northern zone, with a tension, clear mineral presence in it. From 2008-09. 2021-23


(cask) for reference only, since it was blended into the classic wine - there is some style on bouquet; red fruit, some depth on palate. Upright, with some firm length. 12 yr wine. If blended with classic this year, will indeed help that wine.


hint of fruit, nose dumb as yet; suave, compact black fruits, well-packed. Good length, liquorice finale. Tannins are ripe and silky. From 2007. 2026-28

2000 ()

red robe with a good foundation. The bouquet is broad, the aroma goes right across, gives copious fruit and layered drifts of flowers, pepper, roasting – good variety. The attack is bold; this runs with coursing freedom, develops a savoury burst towards the finish. There is a note of roast pork. Its tannins are still holding up well on the finish, adding structure and depth. Very good, very true. “It is ready now,” Gilbert Clusel. 2030-31 Apr 2016 Previously Feb 2015 **** the centre of the robe is still a comfortable dark red, and it also shows a little glisten, has legs. The bouquet is evolving – prune, baked airs come with a still tight, mineral implication, notes of lead pencil and a shimmer of flowers. The palate courses with mineral threading and a scented tea angle; this is complex, understated, holds a neat gras richness that emerges in the texture near the finish, with the sign-off once more on a mineral dustiness. The element of prune in the flavour is notable. It possesses the overall mild features of the vintage. Is a really good schist, iron-infused wine at an interesting stage of its development – there are secondary notes with a sound corset around it. Long, STGT wine. After  one hour+ open, the palate texture thickens more and moves towards gras, and jam fruiting. 12.5°. A Kim Bülow import that I bought in Copenhagen. 2024-27  Feb 2015 Previously Oct 2005 **** good, bright robe. Nose has mineral cut, an immediate stamp of the schist zone here - prune, flowers, cool tints. Has reached a game, fundamental stage on palate - holds an interesting, oily and suave appeal. The fruit is now in its second dimension, tannins hover around it, provide some tar. Work in progress - this wine is still assembling. Raspberry flavour lingers, this holds Burgundian complexity and subtlety. Can open up around 2007. 2022-24. October 2005, Denmark. Previously **** full, elegant bouquet, spiced red fruits. Tasty start on palate, lot of finesse, pure wine. Quietly ripe raspberry fruit, acacia/floral side. Nice length. 2021-23


lot of pretty content, promising nose. Streamlined, decisive flavour, earthy side. Full, orderly matter, restraint works well. It's persistent, with good length. Tannin/oak combine on the end. 2026-28 Note only 600 bottles because of the hail


mixed aromas, fruit/spice/soil, smoky, very clear-cut; nice roll of flavour, black fruit/olives, oak on finale. There's a dry, rather square finish, which will work through. It has good integrity. 2023-25


(cask) quiet nose, berried fruit and spice; the fruit essence here is good, clear-cut, rounded. There is some end tannin. It's a gentle year. From 2002. 2018-21


(half bottle) red robe is ceding ground as it ages; fungal, red plum, advancing nose with rose flowers in it. The palate has a peppery tannin, upright nature, but a tinkle of late richness. It remains rather on its acidity. There are rose notes on the finish. I reckon a 75 cl bottle would be more ensemble, and nearer ***(*). 2022-24 Dec 2008 Previously *** peppery nose, good intensity; complete wine, well-sustained flavour, live end tannins. 2022-24

1995 ()

smooth, black fruit aromas; good mix of power and fresh cassis, plenty of tannic chew at end. Has vintage strictness, so take your time. From 2006. 2027-29


warm, touch of sweet, stewed fruit on nose; plenty of cooked fruit flavour, has a dark intensity. Good length, good quality, there's a lot here. 2020-23