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The Wines

98% Syrah, 2% Viognier from schist soils inc Rozier, 80% destemmed, 3 week vinification, 50% submerged cap, pumping overs, light cap punching, 1 part vat emptying/refilling, assembled after the malo, aged 50% new, 50% 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 18 months, fined, filtered, chosen by tasting, the five casks with the greatest concentration and power, first wine 2011, 1,500 b

2019

(Rozier, most 1970s, early 1980s, a bit of 1960s Syrah, 1-year 228-litre cask, will either go into the Drevon or the Coeur Rose) dark red; there are clear tones above a full fruit nose, loganberry, cassis, the fruit precise. The palate engages well, runs very freely, with zest, lots of dash, is well shaped into a fresh finish, tannins with energy. It has good coolness and movement. There’s a good cluster of raspberry, red berry juice with rockiness on the close. 25 years Feb 2020

2018

(Rozier, 1-year 228-litre cask) dark red; the oak is forward, gives a varnish top to a concentrated black berry aroma, cassis notably. The palate has structure, a firm make-up, a square shape, the fruit pretty liberal, but the wrapping is tight, the content grounded, deep. It has an inky-tarry, black olives close. Needs five years. This is thorough, has good heart, is not a patsy. 27 years Feb 2020

2017

full red robe; this has a broad, South-leaning nose, raspberry, cooked plum airs, intensity. The palate engages with a thick run of red fruits, a Pinot tendency from a sunny Burgundy vintage, with good, sustained length that captures rocky moments of Rozier on the finish. The juice is dark red, like mulberry. It’s good hearted, soulful, I like it. 13.5°. €50 at the cellars. Bottled July 2019. From 2022-23. 2041-44 Feb 2020

2016

shiny, quite full red robe; there are ink, squid notes on the nose, blackberry fruit, licorice. It’s well knit, only starting to emerge, has a raspberry coulis sideline. The palate gives the 2016 signature, iron-blood notes, red cherries fruits with crisp tannins, enough fullness of juice to handle them. It holds well into a firm, orderly close, has good structure. There’s lots of ferrous appeal on the aftertaste. 13.5°. From 2023-24, no hurry. 2040-42 Feb 2020

2015 ()

full red; has a savoury aroma, roast pork, black olives, real intensity of blackberry jam, an oiliness with it. The palate links well, is firm and persistent, bears Sudiste/Southern richness, munchy tannins right in the wheel. Concentrated juice lies deep within it. This is very grounded, inky, notably long. It’s a beefcake, so time will be good to it. The main challenge is for the tannins to enter inside it – they are still thick, obvious. The vintage is still driving it. Can rise to ****(*). 14°. 2044-46 Feb 2020

2014 ()

dark plum colour. Blackberry fruit comes with a quiet insistence on the nose, along with oak-charcoal-vanilla in the mix. The palate gives smoky bacon, loganberry, blueberry, tar, oak still in here and giving a pine-bosky influence. The close is firm, compact, with a black jam density there. This is thorough, hearty. Leave it until 2019 to lessen the oak-tar. “2014 gave fruit, finesse”, Maxime Gourdain. 13°. 2028-30 Oct 2016

2013

(casks) dark robe, black tints. Blackberry, prune airs, some licorice show up in a ripe setting on the nose. There is plenty here, the bouquet a good launch pad that is both deep and round. The palate fruit has dash, gives a lightly salted note after half way. There is good flow along the palate. Oak is a theme, but is absorbing well. It has the freedom of 2013, a carefree nature in its fruit and content. This will please. 13°. 1,500 b. From spring 2017. 2027-29 Jan 2015

2012

dark, full robe. The bouquet is smoky, evokes Lapsang Souchong scented tea, comes with violets and a little meatiness in the berry fruits. The palate links closely to the nose, has a smoked bacon, floral debut, hits the ground running with its energy. The gras travels well and freely, goes wide. This is joli and genuine. There is a note of pine from its oak on the finish. Lots to enjoy here. 13°. From spring 2016. 2024-26  Oct 2015