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The Wines

100% Syrah (early 1980s) from schist on Côte Rozier, destemmed, 3-4 day pre-fermentation crop cooling at 10°-15°C, 20-25 day vinification, pumping overs, a few cap punchings, aged 25-30% new, 70-75% 1-2 year 400-litre oak casks 20 months (until mid-2000s was aged new oak casks up to 24 months), normally unfined, filtered when blending, 2-2,200 b

2018 ()

(cask) steady dark red robe; the nose has airs of blackcurrant, cool blue fruit, with a little pastille-like sweetness and licorice. The palate glides along on a gentle wave of black fruits with a thread of iron, and fine tannins adding a little powder to the late moments. It’s going to be harmonious, and rather complex, just the slight sense of glow on the aftertaste for now being an outrider. From 2023. 2046-48 Nov 2019

2017 ()

(2-year 400-litre cask) very dark red, black centre to the robe. Smoked bacon, cordite, lines of shiny blackcurrant fruits show on the nose, which has a pure strength. There is good immediate thrust on the palate, which goes directly, has rich appeal. There is slight grilling, and a firm, packed foundation. It lengthens solidly. This is masculine, less dense than 2015, is a promising, well charged Rôtie. 14°. From 2022-23. 2037-39 March 2018

2016

(cask, bottling Apr 2018) dark plum red. There’s an elegance in inside its oak-varnish exterior, black cherries at its centre, good clarity. The palate links to the nose, via blueberry fruit with a cool tenor, grippy tannins. It is making its way nice and steadily, I feel. This is elegant, with silken feel and a build in the markedly fresh tannins, rockiness, on the end, oak tar there. 13°. From 2021-22. 2031-33 Mar 2018

2015 ()

(new 400-litre cask) very dark colour. The nose gives a rolling air of deep raspberry fruit, black cherry, and a near lime/citrus influence, the Inner is cool, the oputer closely packed, gives a hint of dried herbs, denoting the warmth of the summer. The palate debut is very attractive, and holds glamorous fruit for a Côte Rozier; it retains its cool style from the middle to the finish. The juice runs hither and thither, and it is a consecutive whole along the palate. This has plenty of graphite and lead in its veins. An accomplished wine. “The tannins are tightly drawn, it is dense, and has good keeping potential,” Christophe Bonnefond. From 2021. GB/HK £210 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com 2042-44 April 2016

2014

½ bottle, bottled last week: clear dark red robe. A smoky, charcoal outer aroma lies ahead of black cherry fruit with raspberry, the fruit kind and stylish but subdued on the inner bouquet. The nose has clear detail. The palate links well to the nose, is cool, tight, crisply oaked. There is a graphite presence. The black fruit has good cut. This has a little style, grace, holds potential. 13°. €40. From 2019. 2029-30  April 2016

2013 ()

(cask) good, dark robe. The bouquet has enough depth to offer mystery; for now, it is oaked, smoked, has cassis fruit at the helm. The palate takes up well from the nose, holds good, fluid fruit with energy apparent. Good length here. It doesn’t quite have the late palate flair of the leaders, but is a solid quality Rôtie. From 2017. 2027-29  Jan 2015

2012

(1 year 400-litre oak cask, bottling June 2014) dark red. Oily, attractive nose that gives airs of cassis and blueberry, licorice, oak smoke; the nose is well together, promises elegance. The debut on the palate is tight; there are real flint sides here, runs along with gusto and expression. It was racked 10 days ago, which may have woken it up. “It has always been open,” C Bonnefond. It keeps going directly, runs well, has a subtle note of peony on the aftertaste. A light tread wine that will close, slow down. This will gain in depth gradually over time. From 2016. Especially good around 2018-21. 2026-27  Nov 2013

2011 ()

bright, dark robe. Mulberry, deep red berry, loganberry fruit in a smoked bouquet, cocoa and oak smoke present, with dabs of freesia, fuschia flowers. The palate gives the idea it will expand over time; its width id rather limited now, lacks real dimension. It ends on smoke-flint, seasoning, blacks fruits, is supple in style. It will have more weight from 2015-16, especially 2016. 13°. Bottled June 2013. 2024-26  Nov 2013

2010 ()

full robe; has a still smoky top air from its oaking; under that it presents a rich appeal, violets and floral nudges, licorice, mineral droplets: it is not a static affair, and has different stimuli and features. The palate is working into shape: oak is still in the frame, but is starting to loosen on the second half, which runs well, before the close pushes oak again. Black berry fruits sits inside it, with pepper here and there that moves down the sides of the palate with some abandon. It has a meaty interior, is really full, more flinty than Rochains. It is very well sustained – the granite rock speaks here. 13°. From 2017. 2029-32  Nov 2013

2009 ()

(1 year old 300 litre oak) **** purple with blue top tints. Has a very serene, composed nose that bears gracious fruit across it, oily black fruits. Has a fleshy, outward facing debut on the palate – this is much more open than usual, and bears 1999 similarities. Rich, but not voluptuous, which is good. Touch of late tannin in it. “The 2009 tannins are very well embedded, and there is a very gourmand side to the wines,” Christophe Bonnefond. 14-16 years. (new 300 litre oak) ****(*) the oak wraps up the nose – leaves a consistent air of black berry fruits, nothing jagged. The palate is also rich, with ell founded ripe fruit, a prune taste with a blackberry coulis. The oak is in place at the end. This will close, possibly in winter 2010. Has a succulent heart. From 2014 to allow time for its variety of flavour and nuance to start. 18 years. Nov 2009

2008 ()

(2 year 400 litre oak) largely full robe; smoky, oaked top air with a blackberry, cocoa under air, along with licorice and pepper. The palate offers interesting black fruit with a snappy texture and a fresh lift in it. It runs along with agility, ends on charcoal and tar. Definitely OK – it is rather hearty in its way. These top 2008s lack definition, a ping of clarity, but have matter. 2020-21 Nov 2009

2007

(1/2 bottle) quite a deep red robe; the nose shows its usual reserve – there is timid black fruit, but there is the sense of quite a depth here – the oak is prominent for now. The palate has a welcome burst of red berry fruit that travels well, with clean lines. Good wine, with the appeal of its place. Its oak is sliding within slowly. From 2013 – be in no hurry. There is elegant fruit inside it. 2022-24 Nov 2009

2006

(casks) dark, largely black robe with a bright top. Bouquet shows black berries and cherries that have been gently mulled, also some violet: is broad and deep, too with some mineral touches and olives, and evident oak. The oak hangs around throughout the palate, from a bit at the start until a lot at the end. Within lies some richness, with an elegant tone of fruit. Do not touch until 2011 – it will not be fun before then. The fruit at its heart is quite beguiling, but it is a pity we cannot enjoy it in its natural state, when it is young. 2019-22 Nov 2007

2005

(casks) dark cherry colour; there is a vibe of chunky black fruit on the nose, but plenty of potential, with a game/gibier note. The palate is similar – black fruits with a clean-cut tone, they are nice and wide, and persist well. Really good, this palate – dark flavours with genuine length and excellent core richness. STGT in the making actually, once the oak is absorbed, so rich is it. A good dance in this wine – lots of pleasure to come. 2010 on. 2020-23 Nov 2006

2004 ()

(magnum) this is still very much on its oak, both nose and palate. A tough wine that lacks the delivery of pleasure. Maybe drink from 2012 at this rate of evolution in magnum, vis-à-vis its oak. I worry that there is not enough matter, and hence the use of so much oak is unwise, with the content not very rich. 2017-19 March 2009 Previously April 2006 ** dark cherry robe; toasted, oaked nose, is grilled, with some black fruits behind that front. Minted, herbal start, not a local wine, holds a deep core from its extraction - aims for scale. Tarry, mineral end. Can only be drunk with pleasure if left to around 2008/09. I presume there is schist under here. Punchy, international. April 2006 2014-17

2003

(cask) minted, upright bouquet, bit sweaty. Dripping fruit start, then stops a little; bit burnt, rather vacant towards finish, runs out of road. From 2006. 2013-14

2002

(cask) fair berry aroma; good fruit, some end richness, too.

2001

black cherry robe; bacon/cassis smoky nose; well-cut, pebbly black fruit. Some richness here, full, silky texture. Peppery aftertaste, nice, live, interesting wine. 2011-13

2000

well-knit, charming bouquet, shows ripe fruit. Very pretty palate, has a lovely run of rich, slightly damp black fruits, with a tarry aftertaste. There was some Viognier in the wine this year, and that floral aspect comes through discreetly. 2012-13 March 2005