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The Wines

100% Syrah (oldest 1955) from Les Rochains, destemmed, 3-4 day pre-fermentation crop cooling at 10°-15°C, 20-25 day vinification, a few cap punchings, many pumping overs, aged 25-30% new, 70-75% 1-2 year 400-litre oak casks 20 months (until mid-2000s was aged new oak casks up to 24 months), normally unfined, unfiltered, 3,500 b

2018

(casks) dark red colour; the nose shows grilling, black cherry fruits, Morellos. The palate gives an open attack, bears live content with smoke in the tannins, the fruit purposeful and clear. It has a good tempo about it. The tannins are fresh, keen, and require another two to three years to settle inside. It could be a touch longer, is a little too “efficient”. From mid-2022. 2039-41 Nov 2019

2017

(2-year 400-litre cask) very dark robe. Black olives, a gateway to the South aroma on the nose, carries smoky intensity, beef stock included. There is a big mass on and across the palate – this has feet firmly on the ground, there’s no hiding place from this one’s march. It’s prolonged and scaled. Indeed, this is scale prevailing over balance for now. It is a dark, intense drink, a bit of a hill to climb – be ready. There are late thick texture and tannins. Decant this. It needs time to loosen up. “It wasn’t what we harvested last, but was the ripest plot we had. The pH is 3.7, and the Total Acidity 3.5 to 4, so balance is OK,” Christophe Bonnefond. 14.5°. From 2023. 2035-38 March 2018

2016

(cask, bottling Apr 2018) dark robe. Chocolate and sweetness feature on the nose, smoke-oak. There’s an aroma of liqueur or coulis black fruits within, black raisin. It’s very much on its raising still. The palate has a more approachable tenor, unfurls a smooth, glistening run of black fruits, cassis and black cherry, with tannins well in the wheel, has gourmandise and good length, nice and complete tannins that add a careful extra layer – they are precise. There’s good late juice. This will please: it’s immediate impact wine. 13°. From 2021. 2032-34 Mar 2018

2015

(2-year 400-litre cask) inky, dark robe. There is a restrained air of olives along with blackberry, a hint of red meat in the bouquet’s depth. It is multi layered. This has a very broad, fulsome start, gives waves of black fruits with some raspberry also. It is broad all through, and the glove-like tannins are well within. This is a complete wine, full of joyous gras, very good. It has a Pinot-esque generosity, the balance very good. This rocks! It is showing more than the Côte Rozier 2015 today. “The tannins are well present, not hard, and the matter is belle,” Christophe Bonnefond. It is close to six stars. GB/HK £210 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com From 2022. 2045-46 April 2016

2014 ()

½ bottle, bottled last week: red robe of some depth. The bouquet presents raspberry, meaty airs, has a gourmand manner, is more curvy then the 2014 Côte Rozier (as it should be), also sweeter. There is a hint of perfumed rose petal. The palate centres on red berries, soaked raspberries, is approachable and squeezy. It finishes with quiet grip. 13°. €40. From mid-2018. 2028-29 April 2016

2013

(cask) very dark. This is a big scale bouquet with chocolate from the oak, an air of prune, a real fleshy depth: it isn’t showing a lot today. The palate runs broadly, has some swagger, the fruit comes along generously. A bundle of late dark fruit depth ends it, shows good length and for now, a tarry, soaked black cherries close. It is a touch exerted in the cellar. From mid-2017. 2029-30  Jan 2015

2012

(1 year 400-litre oak cask, bottling June 2014) dark robe, more sombre than the Côte Rozier. There are inkspots on the nose, which is really dark, has a char-tar depth, a hint of black cherry, fluid fruit within. The palate is closed in, its shape rectangular. The mid-palate expands for a moment. It ends, still running, with gras width in its oak frame. Good depth here, a solid and profound wine that continues well. It isn’t too complicated, a good sign for its clear drinking in the future, is very frank. From 2017. 2027-29  Nov 2013

2011 ()

dark robe. The nose presents a firm wall, compact fruit, small black berries in the picture, violets and raspberry: there is a stylish bouquet to come. There is nicely jaunty fruit on the attack before it tones down, puts up the shutters and ends tightly and firmly. It will please thanks to its juice and fluid fruit. The second half isn’t especially profound. The finish is aromatic. Bottled June 2013. 13°. From 2017. 2026-28  Nov 2013

2010

thickset dark red, rich aspect to the robe. The nose is also rich: abundance shines out, leans towards black olive depth, a southern display. Mulled raspberry and the liquid density of black fruit form its core. This is manly wine, one that ripples with fruit and wellbeing. We’re further south here, even beyond Hermitage. It shows lots of generosity, as if a south-facing slope has  swept up all possible sunshine, almost Le Méal-like. It swishes left and right at the end. It is very attractive, a full basket of nature. From 2016. 13°. 2029-31  Nov 2013

2009

(new 400 litre oak) blue, purple tint in a full robe. Chocolate aroma that is persistent, solid – has a layering of black fruit, also pepper, licorice. Wide and sustained palate that holds bright fruit within the oak, the oak only apparent at the end as yet. The mid-palate is rather supple, and it goes through a plump-style stage before tha oak and ripe tannins come along in the final stages. Good, sure length to this, a wine of solid quality. “We`ll have a better idea of 2009 from spring 2010, after the winter – for now there is a belle equilibrium and tannin in the wine,” Christophe Bonnefond. Nov 2009

2008 ()

(new 400 litre oak) full red robe; soundly ripe and friendly, rounded air to its prune fruit on the nose. The palate is modestly rich, quite well strung together, with fair length. The oak is profound at the end. This has some of the meatiness of Rochains, a red meat, that I would expect. Esp around 2013. 2021-22. Nov 2009

2007

(1/2 bottle) darker robe, more matt than C Rozier. Brewed, bit savoury, black fruits nose that runs right across the glass. There is definite muscle, a weave of fruit and tannin in this – but the tannin is more from the oak than the grape. This is more masculine than the Côte Rozier. Its length holds up well – it stretches out. Ripe black fruit and a tangy chocolate finish. From late 2011. 2022-23 Nov 2009

2006 ()

(casks) dark, black, filled-up robe; the bouquet holds black fruits, with a soft, polished leather air and a late resorgimento of black berries and Maraschino cherries: there is more to come and to emerge. The palate is fairly rich, with marked oak lining that brings a black pepper, licorice sideshow. Its core is nicely rich, and its elements are linked well enough to indicate plenty of future. There is some late “crunchy” black fruit. The drawback is that it is rather enforced in the cellar, and so needs to shake off that imposition. From 2010. 2021-13 Nov 2007

2005 ()

(casks) very dark robe; filled-up bouquet – black stone fruits that hold up – there is very ripe fruit being used that gives it a maquillage air, the wearing of make-up. Is a little sweet, smoky and burnt. The ripe fruit theme continues on the palate – is a sappy, olive, touch southern wine with a tarry finale – is full in a plush manner. I find the ripeness of the fruit a bit over the top. Scented on the finish. I find it overworked in the cellar. It may tighten and gain focus if left. Esp 2010 on. 2020-22 Nov 2006

2004

subdued bouquet, shows traces of black fruit, is a little severe. Mixes black fruits, leather, tar. Upright shape now, has the feel of the northern zone. Demanding, tight texture. Some roundness late on, but too much cellar for me at the moment. From 2008. 2013-15 April 2006

2003

(cask) bland, bit stewed, soaked berry aroma. Coffee, black fruit flavours, meaty wine with width. Broad and a well-set fullness. Decent poise, promise. From 2007. 2018-19

2002

quiet, dark fruit/mineral bouquet - more in 2006. Decent matter, with structure, correct tannins. Cool, northern style, some richness. Will be elegant, pretty; persists well. From 2007. 2014-16 Last tasted April 2005 Previously (cask) *** full, compact bouquet; rounded, nicely weighted, fruit is sound. Not bad. 2011-12

2001

brewed dark red fruit/some violet bouquet; full wine, but clear-cut. Very clear cassis fruit on second half, with some acidity to help it. Quite rich, live finish, length sound. 2011-14

2000

truffly/raspberry, charged aroma; rounded, stewed flavour, earthy, with stone black fruit at end. Nicely dark and dank. 2011-13.