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The Wines

from 2010 made from 33% 1928, 1936 Serine, 33% 1960s, 1970s Syrah (total 0.35 ha), 33% 1998 Syrah (0.15 ha) on Les Grandes Places (northern sector) (before 2010 was from 0.15 ha 1998 Syrah), since 2013 35-100% whole bunch fermentation, first juice cooled 12 hours at 8-9°C, wild yeasts, then 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs, cap punching, 2007, 2009 some part vat emptying/refilling, aged 100% new 400-litre &600-litre oak casks 24 months (until 2010 aged 36 months, with 228-litre, 300-litre & 400-litre oak casks used), just one racking, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2004, wide bottle, 2,000 b

2019

(new 400-litre cask) dark robe. There’s very assured depth of cherry fruit on the nose, which is curved, shows sunshine, dried herbs – the herbs an indication of the heat. The texture is most pleasing on the attack; this is savoury, holds fluid gras, has style, beefy strength. This has handled the vintage better than Champon, is complex, nuanced, carries a lot of appeal. It leans towards the Côtes de Nuits from a hot vintage. It has real energy and flair, plus a solid foundation, is a complete wine. “It will be truly top, is already showing finesse,” Stéphane Pichat. From 2026-27. 2055-57 Feb 2020

2018 ()

(new 400-litre cask) full red; elegance lies at the heart of the nose, red berry, raspberry with discreet, appealing sweetness, blood, hints of herbs. This has a graphite spine and flecks of iron with style in the gras and the fruit that carries a rose imprimatur, with all the rockiness, and then the new oak. This is a lot of wine – interesting, challenging, has a big surge on the close. Very good length here, real good thrust. It’s firm, vintage-marked, with a decent modicum of tannin, has strength. 14.2°. From 2026. 2047-49 Feb 2020

2017

dark red; there is oily essence on the bouquet, black stone fruit, sweet ripeness, a hint of salt, very light violet. The palate is coated, savoury, with blue fruit, soaked notes in the fruit, buffed leather. Its strength comes from within, and asserts in a sustained finish. Black olives on the aftertaste appear, and it’s still on the vintage over its terroir. It accumulates juice inexorably, and the vintage strength has reduced the crunch content of the stems, meaning there’s an iron note on the aftertaste. From 2026. 2043-45 Feb 2020

2016 ()

(cask) dark colour. The bouquet has a savoury, lamb stock feature, evokes fruit lozenges with a mineral tang, near cough sweets, notes of musky scent. There is more to come, its depth being assured. The palate is lined with good, dark red-fruited content, with firm tannins and oak smoke to mark the second half. This is naked wine, with an upstanding stiffness from the schist for now. Its mineral theme is convincing, genuine, long. From spring 2020. It will move gradually into shape and become an ensemble. Serve in a large glass around 2024 to witness that prediction as the truth! 13°. 2030-32 Nov 2017

2015

(new 600-litre oak cask) very dark. Spice and pepper show on the nose, along with rolling red fruit, a savoury and inviting opening it is with a criss-cross of flowers. The palate presents effortless gras on the attack, has a coated roundness, and builds and builds, is extremely prolonged. There is chocolate from the oak, but it holds lots of gras richness. The nose is superb for a six week wine. On the palate there is a good pile of red fruits in tandem with its late freshness – that is very good combination. “It already tastes well, even with the 100% whole bunches. I am surprised,” Stéphane Pichat. 2035-37 Oct 2015

2014 ()

(cask) full, dark red. There is a pistachio nut-oak first aroma here, a sound inlay of black fruit; the nose has a smoky, sizzled bacon air, lucid black cherry fruit inside it. The palate strides along well, marked by classy black fruit and agile tannins. It all fits together very well. This is very promising, a superior, properly stylish, nuanced 2014 Côte-Rôtie. From 2019. 2029-31  Oct 2015 

2013

very dark robe. The bouquet has a charming top note, prune, spice, light violets and a cool inner. The attack is pretty dense and sustained: it has a black berry jam flavour which is thick enough, with oak along the sides, but good juice still in play. It stretches out well, and black pepper and notes of flowers feature on the aftertaste. This is doing well – it is both dense and elegant, has plenty of life and goes broadly as well. The tannins and the oak require it be left until mid-2018. 13°. Bottled Aug 2015. 2028-30  Oct 2015

2012

(400-litre oak cask, 1928 Serine) deep, dark robe. Has a raunchy, wide nose, full of rock n’roll dark fruit, laced with a sweet, floral trim, a wee note of crushed nut shells. The palate engages right away on the attack – it gives a broad charge of bustling black berry and cassis fruit, sweet caramel oak notes in it. Has an unrefined but complete finish. Tannins are still surging around here. Gutsy, grounded, smoke-mineral aftertaste of the northern, schist zone here. From mid-2015. 13°. 2025-27  Nov 2013

2011

(400-litre oak cask, 1928 Serine) cherry red colour; the nose is curvaceous, shows plum and cherry fruiting, a little graphite and a hint of rose petal. The palate texture is silky – it is harmonious as it starts, then it tightens and becomes more crunchy at the end. It has the terroir in its veins, and is STGT beyond the oak. It has nerve, intent, and the finish is complete. It is nice and varied – a graphite tang, liquid red cherry, tobacco. From 2017. 2027-29  Oct 2012

2010

dark, sustained robe; violet, cocoa, deep bouquet that has hardly released its potential. There is a blackberry, cassis depth about it. The palate is voluminous, deep, ample. It is more on the vintage than its terroir for now. The tannins are young, ripe, embedded, right inside the wine. It is long and broad at the end, good lip smack qualities on the aftertaste. It shows the mineral of Les Grandes Places on the finish, so expect it to move more towards a sense of place. It can certainly live - to 2030-32. From 2017-18. 13.3°. Oct 2012

2009

(new 228-litre oak cask) handsome red, with legs down the glass. Attractive red cherry aroma travels across the glass, is lightly smoky. The palate red fruit is clear and woven, with straight-faced tannins for now. Has the grain of the oak in it late on. It makes calm progress along the palate, and its mineral cut is typical of the Grandes Places. All very wrapped up, a real waiter of a wine, one with big potential, and more finesse than 2005. Good balance. From 2014. 2028-31 Nov 2009

2008

(new 300-litre oak cask) clear, bright red robe; tight, cherry fruit aroma, with smoky waves behind; it is very precise both on nose and palate. The fruit tickles along, not obviously, but is discreetly persistent. There are real good droplets of fine fruit in this. The finale is clear. 2020-21 Nov 2009

2007

(new 300-litre oak cask, to be bottled August 2010) the red is showing some top turn on the robe; quince, red jam aroma, with mineral tang, bouquet garni flowers also – a classic floral Côte-Rôtie nose. The palate bears approachable, fine fruit that is moving into harmony with its oak. There is a subtle gain in richness towards the finish. It is all coming together. STGT wine that offers access to its origins. A tasty spot of late red fruit is a lovely sign-off. From 2012. 2024-25. €48 here. Nov 2009 Previously Jan 2008 *** (the 1 new cask, 300-litres) bright, quite dark red robe. The aroma is well-knit, exuding red berries with a compact appeal, and promises width for the future. There is a good strike of fruit on the palate – is typical, with some light dance in the fruit, then later the oxide, mineral effect, and a wee vegetal tone. Promising wine; its tannins need leaving until around 2011. 2020-22 Jan 2008

2006

bright, quite full red robe; the nose is smoky and a little reduced, with some earthiness as a result: not a prime moment for this. The palate starts with good, pure fruit, and broadens gently as it goes. There is some late roundness – a cherry cake in the flavour. From 2012. 2022-23 Jan 2008

2005 ()

(cask) quite a deep red; the red fruit on the bouquet has bright air to it – a raspberry aroma that holds up well, with some smoky and touch peppery sides. The red fruit on the palate comes with a measured footprint – this is a thorough wine. Blueberries, cherries come through – and later on , leather and a wide expression that is asserted with authority, with no spiky sides. The tannins bring a pebbly note late in the day, but its content runs well throughout and all can be well handled. Promising wine. 2026-29 Jan 2008