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The Wines

2003-04 Viognier on sandy terraces from La Caille, fermented 33% new, 33% 1-year, 33% 2-year 228-litre oak casks, raised 8 months (before late 2010s fermented, raised 67% new 400-litre, 33% 1-year 400-litre oak cask 12 months), lees stirred, malo completed, first wine 2008, 850 b-1,700 b

2019

(1-year 228-litre cask, sugars, malo both completed, bottling May 2020) yellow robe; the bouquet is notably ripe, with pear in syrup, a prolonged aroma. There is strength along the palate, which is manly, firm, has compact content. The alcohol sticks out a bit at the end, is a bit spirity. From spring 2021 – it needs to order itself. It’s at least 15.5° … 2025-26 Feb 2020

2018 ()

yellow robe; has a forward peach-apricot aroma in a round and generous, broad nose, one with open appeal. The palate is also fragrant, with a nectarine-brioche flavour and a retention of gras on the finish. This is agreeable, musky, with a spot of detail inside it towards the finish, oaking there also, a touch of butter, nuts late on. 13.5°. €30 at the cellars. To 2025 Feb 2020

2015 ()

1) (used 228-litre oak cask, sugars completed) ***(*) yellow robe. Has a big, wide bouquet that is dense and fleshy, suggests cooked pear in syrup. The palate starts widely, holds lots of gras richness, has a depth of fruit lozenges, reaches out well. A lot of wine in the glass here, has real stuffing. It ends quite clearly, and can live on thanks to its glycerol. Table wine, not aperitif: it is 15°. 6 years. 2) (new 400-litre Damy cask, sugars completed) **** yellow robe. Firm, closed but deep nose. The palate is crunchy, full, the fruit rich and seamless. Good length here, a wine with a lot of foundation and sound freshness. It has a dried fruits flavour. 7 years. 2021-22 Oct 2015

2014

bright yellow robe. The nose assembles a clear air of aniseed, with a soft white peach backdrop, and lime also. It is an elegant start. The palate drifts quietly along the palate, is New Wave Condrieu that I find tame, neutral. It is all smooth, but lacks real depth of its place; its wings have been clipped. 13°. To 2018  Oct 2015   

2012

pale yellow; sturdy nose with an oak traverse across it, hence a vanilla coat, latent peanut. The palate starts on a note of rich gras, by design. The oak takes on a singed, rather burnt note, and renders the finish rather tight and unfriendly, especially if drinking solo. I am not convinced by its cohesion, as if the Viognier could have been riper. 13.5°. Doesn’t tie in with the early cask tasting. To 2017  Nov 2013  Previously Oct 2012 ***(*) (1 year 400-litre cask) brioche, cooked pear, attractive honeysuckle nose. The palate is stylish, understated, tasty and agreeable. This shows pear-apricot, white strawberry fruit, with a smoky oak in it. Good length. A true Condrieu, harmony to come. “I like my Condrieu with minerality, not too smoothed out,” S.Pichat. To 2017  Oct 2012

2011 ()

pale, glinting yellow; nice bouquet, decisive cut in it, apricot, flint, pear and a wee note of acetate. It is open, a bit young vine-like, could have more guile. There is also a good mineral, light citrus note on the palate, which feels good and clear; there is quiet power in it – it is refined overall, with depth through notes such as brioche bread, banana early on. The aftertaste resembles cooked pear. Agreeable length, can be drunk solo. Wholesome, not pushed, wine. 13.5°. 2018-19. Bottled early Sept.  Oct 2012

2009 ()

(cask, ending its fermentation, about 13.5°) wide, ample nose, a full start. Good early flourish on the palate, before it quietens, and stretches out, showing baked fruit. Is a more robust wine than the 2008, savoury and full. To 2016 Nov 2009

2008 ()

pale yellow; quiet, tight, quite strict nose, offers high tone, green apple, light honey airs. Soft, now rather gummy fruit on the palate – pear flavours emerge late on, come with a fine grain. I would decant this and drink with food, not solo. The finish is hesitant. “It lacks the body for the aperitif – you can eat cheese such as goat – Crottin or Chavignol with this,” S.Pichat, to which I would add turkey or even veal. 13°. To 2015 Nov 2009