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The Wines

80-86% Syrah (174 clone, an old clone), 14-20% Viognier (both 1994) co-planted on 0.36 hectare on sandy above mica-schist, glacier remnant soils at Verenay, “my most precocious vineyard”, fermented by macération carbonique and semi-carbonique at up to 25°C (one pumping over open to air), no cap punching, aged 2-6 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, first wine 2015, not made in 2016, “it’s unusual to have 20% Viognier in a Brune, the Viognier rendering it more feminine”, 600 b

2019

(cask, bottling Sept 2020) very clear red robe; the nose is shapely, aromatic, on red fruit, is pure, floral with red cherry and raspberry. There’s a kind sweetness underpinning it, a pastille effect. The palate moves with Burgundian finesse, bears red cherries, has firm sides, comes from within, has iron, is structured. It’s aromatic with a touch of suave gras near the close, gras encouraged by the Viognier. It’s intricate, grippy, unusual, delivers interest. A granite blend would have more sucrosity. The aftertaste is rocky, finely powdered. Harvested before the rain which helped the Coteaux de Tupin. From 2022-23. 2042-44 Dec 2019

2018

dark red; there’s a black cherry-licorice opening on the nose, which has ripe fruit, but there’s also a tender floral-violet aroma helping its style, with a hint of iodine also that is good for it. The palate is close together on its padding of the vintage and its iron of the terroir - the mattress and the bed springs. The fruit resembles soaked red cherries or griottes, with tasty succulence. It ends on raspberry liqueur, has good pulse, length, produces menthol on the finish. The game here is to judge at what point vintage and terroir will be hand in hand – “maybe in 10 years”, Jean-Michel Stéphan. There is pleasing violet on the aftertaste. Could move towards ****(*). 13.5°. €102. From 2023 at least. 2041-43 Dec 2019

2017 ()

(used 228-litre cask) full red robe, with sheen. There’s a touch of the vegetal on the nose, with airs of lighted matches, raspberry fruit; very clear it is, comes with poise, quality The palate is perfumed, from the near to musky school, has real primary, of the fermenting vat, flavouring. There’s a good criss-cross of red fruits along the palate, a lot going on. The flavour involves soaked cherries, cherry stone. This has good grip, is high interest wine. From 2021. 2035-37 March 2018

2016 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2015 ()

(used 228-litre oak cask, the press wine) clear red robe, much lighter than the other 2015s. There is charming purity of red berry on the nose, light clove airs. The palate holds red berry fruits, redcurrants with fine detail. There is supple gras here and there from the Viognier, which gives silk to the texture. It has good, steady length, keeps tapping away. This is “accurate” wine, with quiet inner resolve. This was the first crop harvested this year – 5 September. “I wanted to make this separately for the first time,” Jean-Michel Stéphan. 12 years  Dec 2015